Hey guys, I'm building a truggy and I have
a 1986 HP Ford 60 Kingpin 60 up front, locked with 5.38s just installed.

Question 1: First off, I planned on getting a FF 14 Bolt cause I've found a few local for $150 in decent shape.
I read the 14 Bolt Tech section that 5.13s were the lowest gear you can put in the 14 Bolt?
Randy's sells Yukon 5.38 Gear set available for $300? Can I run 5.38s in the 14 bolt? Are they stronger than a Dana 70?]
Also, I read setting up the gears in the 14 bolt is MUCH easier then the Danas?

Qustion 2: I found a 1995 Dodge Dana 70 Rear End for $150 also. I need 5.38s too.. and probably disc conversion too.
I read the axle shafts on the 70 are pretty huge but I'm concerned with the cost of having to find a NEW carrier for the 5.38s,
the cost of gears and the cost of brakes and any other bearings and seals and shit I will need to rebuilt it. Also, is this 1995 Dodge Dana 70 rear a Full Floater?
Do the Dana 70s have a gear ratio cut-off like the Dana 60s do?

What would you go with? FF 14 Bolt or Dana 70 for $150?

I"m on a budget, I want the rear axle build to be cheap as possible.. I lost my job and trying to finish my truggy build before winter.

Keep in mind I have the Ford HP 60 front, I want the AXLE WIDTH to MATCH my Front 60 Width. I also want the bolt pattern to match..
Does anyone know if 1995 Dodge 1 ton 8 bolt patterns are 8x6.5? Also.. I'm only running 38s now with plans to go to 39.5s Iroks down the road.

Thanks!

I have a 60/14b combo in my Jeep and I love the 14b. its so easy to do everything to. you can get 5.38's for it. and if you want to get rid of the strap style yoke look at partsmike.com he has a 1350 yoke for under $70 using u-bolts. and the bearings and seals are the same on the 60 and 14b. go to the 14b bible and look at the diffrent kind of 14b's. I dont know much about the dana 70 sorry. well I hope this helps. good luck

5.38's are becoming more common throughout manufactuers for the 14. So dont be too suprised that you see yukon offering them, there are others.

As for strength compared to the 70 gears, I couldnt exactly say but it surely couldnt be much. The shaft size is where your gaining strength. 14 is 1.5" and 70 is 1.75".

As for the carrier break on the 70...its 4:10 and down and 4:56 and up...so is it possible you could just pull one with 4:56 or is that not an option?

The 95 IS a full floater. Yes the pattern is 8x6.5.

For matching widths---not really a big deal. Tons of guys including myself run a Ford SRW 60 that measure 69.5 and a SRW 14 that is 67". To the naked eye, not matter how you look at it, you cant tell at all.

Now, the 14 comes in 4 width's IIRC, and the 70 is offered up to 78" wide I think. So I guess its up to you on width, but I assure you a few inches means nothing.

Personally, Id go 14. The 70 is a pig, and so is the 14 however the 70 is a bigger pig. In the sense that your running 39.5 Iroks (which I really wish you would reconsider) the 70 will add more weight and less clearance. You can shave both axle's for a pretty substantial clearance gain, but if you dont need the stregth of a 70, then why kid youself thinking that you do? Just how I look at it.

Another reason for the 14, pinion support. Thats a biggie for me, and that fact that you can add a skid for cheap is nice too.

I'll also note that my 14 is complete right now and it cost a little under $400. Granted I didnt swap gears (4.56 is plenty with a good-t-case) but still. It's got disc brakes (eldo calipers), welded diff, 4.56 and a Blue-Torch DIY diff cover. Add gears to that (if you can personally set them up)for another 250-300 depending on choice and your still well under 1,000 for a BAD ASS axle.

Both great choices, but for cost, and ease...I vote 14. Good luck.

The 14 bolt is quickly becoming the rear axle of choice for cheap beef, easy to modify, aftermarket is making new stuff for it all the time. Seem to be easier to find than 70's and not many people are breaking them ( within reason!):D

Look for one already built and save money. I was originally looking for a 60/14b combo for my build, but landed a D60/D70HD both build w/ 35 spline everything, 5.38s, and detroits front and rear for $2k.

Get whatever you find cheap first IMO, can't go wrong w/ either. I just happened to luck out with a 70HD which uses D80 carrier bearings(maybe carrier too? I don't know too much but it's beef).

5.38's are becoming more common throughout manufactuers for the 14. So dont be too suprised that you see yukon offering them, there are others.

As for strength compared to the 70 gears, I couldnt exactly say but it surely couldnt be much. The shaft size is where your gaining strength. 14 is 1.5" and 70 is 1.75".


Actually the 70 is 1.5", hence the reason a 14bolt is usually compared to the 70 instead of the 60. The only company that I am aware of offering 5.38 is Yukon and they only offer them on a 4.10 and down carrier. If you end up getting a 4.56 carrier the highest option you have is 5.13 and that is ONLY factory GM gears which are over $300 a set.

Oops...got me there. I was thinking pinion dia.

Genuine Gear offer's 5:38's. They dont list em, but they do have them. And they are much cheaper than Yukon.

but landed a D60/D70HD both build w/ 35 spline everything, 5.38s, and detroits front and rear for $2k.

Who makes 5.38's for a dana 70?

i think that year dana 70 from that truck will be a 32 spline version, not the 35 spline one. is there a huge difference in strength i dought it, but there may not be alot of after market support like lockers.

me i went with what was laying in just about any junkyard a 14-bolt. yes i jumped on the band wagon, but it was for a reasion. every time i walk threw a junkyard i would see at least 2-3 14-B's sitting in the axle pile. then i would see some still under trucks, so it was nice to see what i was running so avaible.

i do see dana 70's, but different style's and different manufactors, like ford/dodge and GM versions. so to get what i needed i would still need to track down a specific brand and year of axle.
if i had a few dana 70's, i would of used them. you cant beat there factory strength, but it was nice to find a 14-B so cheap and i now have plenty of spare parts were ever i am.

jason.

NO 538's for a D70. Go for the 14 bolt.

All things being pretty equal Id take the 14 bolt over the 70. As stated above the 14 bolt is so freaking common anywhere and everywhere so if you needed an axle shaft in BFE it wouldnt be hard to find. Also since it is such a commonly used axle espically in the the 4x4 world more and more mfg. are making parts for it and they are cheap to buy. If I already had a 70U Id run that but to go out looking for one over the other...go 14 bolt.

Who makes 5.38's for a dana 70?

NO 538's for a D70. Go for the 14 bolt.


Well son of a bitch... I guess I need to tear my axles apart and look again... I guess I have 5.13s more than likely, I just checked by turning the pinion vs how many times the wheels turn.

In that case if you need 5.38s then 14b is the way to go.

I just picked up a Dana 70 cheap that is already set-up for 4 link, has disc brakes and 4.56 gears. The price was right so why not. Plus now all I have to do is mount tabs on my jeep and build links. The axle is ready to bolt in. But it is a heavy SOB, but so is a 14B

I don't know Jack about the 70, but on the 14B You can drop a good bit of weight converting to disc brakes. If you can weld, you can gain about 2-2.5" ground clearence. Plus aftermarket is growing, they are easy to find and can be had for super cheap.

I just picked up a Dana 70 cheap that is already set-up for 4 link, has disc brakes and 4.56 gears. The price was right so why not. Plus now all I have to do is mount tabs on my jeep and build links. The axle is ready to bolt in. But it is a heavy SOB, but so is a 14B

If I could find a D70 that was aleady built and a 14 bolt that wasnt I do the same thing as you Jon...dont blame you one bit there.

You have a great axle with ther D70. Lots of good aftermarket support is avail for it now. I just installed a 35 spline ARB in mine that was a 32 spline out of a ,92 CTD Dodge. Smooth bottom and Nodular Iron casting is a bonus as well. My shafts are 35 spline 1.5"

I just picked up a Dana 70 cheap that is already set-up for 4 link, has disc brakes and 4.56 gears. The price was right so why not. Plus now all I have to do is mount tabs on my jeep and build links. The axle is ready to bolt in. But it is a heavy SOB, but so is a 14B

if i had a dana 70 in front of me built or not i would of used it. but i had a 14 bolt within ear shot of me so i built that. trust me no one's dumping on the 70, its just most of us find a 14 bolt first.

jason.

The Dana 70U that Chrysler sourced for the rams is the biggest POS ever. I've killed 3 of them. The Dodge 70U has Dana 44 sized pinion bearing. Go 14b, 70HD, or Dana 80.

Dana 70U SUCKS.:mad3::mad3:

-Brad