heres where my truck sat last year after i put the leveling kit on it and it had a v8
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/0112081329.jpg
then heres me over winter doing all kinds of stuff... new bumper, body lift, and locking hubs in front
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/0319091900.jpg
heres where my truck sat when i blew up the v8 pulling the donor truck home with the v10 under the hood
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/0401090009.jpg
the real way to swap a rear axle... upgrading from dana 60 to dana 80
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/Photo0083.jpg
v8 comin out
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/0401092204.jpg
v10 to go in
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/0401092348.jpg
and as it sits right now getting ready for new gas tank, air ride in back, twin turbos, new rear bumper, winch mount in front, new bed, paint, stacks, and headache rack...
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/100_0840.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/100_0841.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/100_0846.jpg

changed plan... gunna move batteries and mount turbos here
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/100_0842.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/100_0843.jpg
turbos!!! gotta get new housing for one
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/100_0852.jpg
winch!!! 12,000lb hydraulic
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/100_0850.jpg
5" Stacks
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/100_0853.jpg

I'm interested.

Can't wait to see more!

Something is going to blow up. When are you pulling the engine out to build it?

What are your plans for fueling and tuning? I'm very intersted in the outcome. The V-10 truck motor is a sleeping giant IMHO. With a little boost, I think it will be a monster. Subcribed.

are you going to cut the stacks down so they are flush with the bedsides or leave them like they are for s diesel?

Flush with the bedside? Why on earth would anyone do that? Would that just put the exhaust out in the dead air behind the cab and draw it into the cab when the windows are down? The whole point is to put it in the airstream over or around the cab.

What are your plans for fueling and tuning? I'm very intersted in the outcome. The V-10 truck motor is a sleeping giant IMHO. With a little boost, I think it will be a monster. Subcribed.

Ya 8.0 Liters of displacement, alittle boost could go along ways.

I'm interested to see the final product and how clean it comes out.

What holsets are those? How many miles are on the motor?

Something is going to blow up. When are you pulling the engine out to build it?

Why do you say that? There is no reason why a stock motor won't last for a reasonable life span as long as you are careful with the tuning. I am actually amazed at how resilient stock motors are even with some pretty big tuning errors. Turbochargers are actually pretty kind to motors when comparing them to other methods of making power.

Even if it does end up blowing up, I would rather make all the mistakes on a cheap stock motor rather than seriously hurt an expensive motor.

I'm interested to see the final product and how clean it comes out.

What holsets are those? How many miles are on the motor?



Why do you say that? There is no reason why a stock motor won't last for a reasonable life span as long as you are careful with the tuning. I am actually amazed at how resilient stock motors are even with some pretty big tuning errors. Turbochargers are actually pretty kind to motors when comparing them to other methods of making power.

Even if it does end up blowing up, I would rather make all the mistakes on a cheap stock motor rather than seriously hurt an expensive motor.

:laughing: I didnt mean the engine, I meant drivetrain wise, that 47re is definitely going to have to be fully built.

But I'd imagine the engine would have to get torn to handle 2 turbos unless they are going to be brought down to a very low boost, but then why even run 2 when 1 would be sufficient. :confused:

i need 2 turbos to handle the displacement... i could run one turbo but it would have to be huge just to handle 488 cu. in. a stock motor can handle up to 9lbs safely and im only gunna run 7lbs and i actually have an nv4500 behind the v10 and a dana 80 rear in the back with limited slip to handle the power. the 2 turbos are actually hx35s. im gunna use an fmu that will just add fuel pressure with each pound of boost and i havent figured out what im gunna do about timing... im pretty much gunna put it all together and plumb it up then put in my fmu and start it up and see what happens like with pinging and what not... this isnt going to be a super fast build but ill try and keep a steady pace

But I'd imagine the engine would have to get torn to handle 2 turbos unless they are going to be brought down to a very low boost, but then why even run 2 when 1 would be sufficient. :confused:

Since he is running HX35s he is going to have to run two of them if he wants to make any real power. A single wouldn't flow nearly enough air to make it worth even wasting the time.

i need 2 turbos to handle the displacement... i could run one turbo but it would have to be huge just to handle 488 cu. in. a stock motor can handle up to 9lbs safely and im only gunna run 7lbs and i actually have an nv4500 behind the v10 and a dana 80 rear in the back with limited slip to handle the power. the 2 turbos are actually hx35s. im gunna use an fmu that will just add fuel pressure with each pound of boost and i havent figured out what im gunna do about timing... im pretty much gunna put it all together and plumb it up then put in my fmu and start it up and see what happens like with pinging and what not... this isnt going to be a super fast build but ill try and keep a steady pace

There is nothing wrong with big singles. The main advantage that I see to running twins is that packaging can be easier with small engine bays. I'm working on a bracket car with a relatively stock 440 and an s475 and shooting for some decent numbers myself.

I don't know that you're going to be able to do too much about timing anyway, unless you do something mechanically or use some other form of engine management. You may want to look into something like the SCT custom programmer to see if they support the v10. You may not need an FMU then either. http://www.sctflash.com/DCXC2.php

Have you actually measured the two hx35s to make sure they are the same? There is more than one compressor wheel available in that series of holsets...

glad to see the lack of jackstands with you guys under the truck being held up by a shitty looking boompole. fawesome. i am not surprised to see a mobile home in the background, nor am i surprised to see stacks going on a gasser. it all adds up and makes sense.

yeah they are both the same. and i thought bout runnin a big single but it was cheaper to run the 2 hx35s and i was actually looking for an aem piggy back or something similar to that or i think i saw something on summit that might work cuz i dont have a distributor or anything like that but ill check out that programmer

glad to see the lack of jackstands with you guys under the truck being held up by a shitty looking boompole. fawesome. i am not surprised to see a mobile home in the background, nor am i surprised to see stacks going on a gasser. it all adds up and makes sense.

oh yea i thought ud think that makes sence... but there were jack stands under that boom pole and i never said that it was safe i was being sarcastic bout it being the right way and i put it there for some humor... thanks for your support

yeah they are both the same. and i thought bout runnin a big single but it was cheaper to run the 2 hx35s and i was actually looking for an aem piggy back or something similar to that or i think i saw something on summit that might work cuz i dont have a distributor or anything like that but ill check out that programmer

I've been down the piggyback controller road. They suck. I will never do that again. I would look at doing something mechanical to adjust the timing before I would waste my time with a piggyback controller. I don't know how the v10 gets its crank position reference, but you might try re-indexing the sensor.

Big singles aren't expensive if you do your homework and look around a bit. My brand new s475 didn't cost that much more than what two used hx35s typically go for and it will support over 1000 hp. Cold side plumbing and boost control is a lot easier with a single too.

yeah that will be the hard part bout the 2 turbos is the cold side plumbing... im gunna figure something out for timing but id rather not go with something that just retards my timing at all time... id like it to remain factory until it hits boost the retard it "x" amount of degrees per pound... and i actually didnt pay anything for the hx35s thats why it was cheaper for me to go that way :D

glad to see the lack of jackstands with you guys under the truck being held up by a shitty looking boompole. fawesome. i am not surprised to see a mobile home in the background, nor am i surprised to see stacks going on a gasser. it all adds up and makes sense.

Stacks shouldn't be on 90% of the diesel pick up trucks out there either. Stacks on this serve more function than most of the diesel pick ups, send a PM if you want to know the logic behind it, because I'm not posting it.


BTW there is nothing wrong with a mobile home, espically when you are homeless.

I don't know that you're going to be able to do too much about timing anyway, unless you do something mechanically or use some other form of engine management. You may want to look into something like the SCT custom programmer to see if they support the v10. You may not need an FMU then either. http://www.sctflash.com/DCXC2.php



Another to check with is B&G http://www.bgperformancepcm.com/

subscribing to watch the 488 potential :grinpimp:

Another to check with is B&G http://www.bgperformancepcm.com/

I know they advertise that they have a tune for the V-10, along with all other late model Mopars, but I've heard horror stories about his {Lack of} Customer service. He used to be able to get away with it, as he was the ONLY mopar tuner out there, but with SCT and Diablo now helping out the Mopar world, he has kinda fallen off the map. I'm in a similar boat, as I want to build a 408 for my wrangler, and do a cam and headwork on my V-10, both with good tunes. The tuning is by far the hardest part with Mopars.

I know they advertise that they have a tune for the V-10, along with all other late model Mopars, but I've heard horror stories about his {Lack of} Customer service. He used to be able to get away with it, as he was the ONLY mopar tuner out there, but with SCT and Diablo now helping out the Mopar world, he has kinda fallen off the map. I'm in a similar boat, as I want to build a 408 for my wrangler, and do a cam and headwork on my V-10, both with good tunes. The tuning is by far the hardest part with Mopars.

I've also heard b&g's tunes aren't as good as some of the ones coming out on the SCT tuners. From what I've read on the interwebs (take it for what it's worth) about guys who have tried both b&g and SCT for custom stuff, they much prefer the SCT tuner. Biggest factor they said was the ability to have tunes e-mailed to them vs sending in your ECM for a new flash.

i need 2 turbos to handle the displacement... i could run one turbo but it would have to be huge just to handle 488 cu

I think that 2 hx35 is overkill for only 8lb of boost. I changed the compressor wheel in my hx35 and I boost 40psi at night with cool air and 35psi with the temps over 100,

its a bit more plumbing but I would mount the turbo under the bed of the truck and send the exhaust straight up to the stacks. kinda like TS product does for mustangs and vettes.

keep the turbos under the hood up high and keep the oiling issues away..Turbos need heat and unless your building custom wheels then its not worth the remote mount or mounting them far from the exhaust.

Use the thermal energy of the engine to help spool up.

as far as timing if dfi supports a 10 banger or even big stuff 3 id look around at mustang boards and get a used one..

i would imagine ur talking about on a cummins that your making that 35lbs... and an hx35 would be great for spooling only 7lbs on a 4cyl but your talking 35lbs on a 359cu/in at 1500rmp (just a guess) if i tried spooling 1 hx35 with 488cu/in at 2000rpm imagine how fast that turbo would be spooling not only would i blow it up but it would restrict my exhaust and rob more power than it would make... i dont need 2 hx35s cuz i dont think 1 will handle the boost... i know it can. i need 2 of them to handle the amount of air flowing through them when i decide to open it up to 4000rpm... thats alot of air... my original plan was to mount them under the bed but i found room under my hood to put them so its alot less plumbing and less turbo lag... im trying to find a good set of headers to use that i could pretty much just bolt on and use but i dont think that is going to work so now im trying to figure out the best place to get a flange and prebent tubes to make my own... as for an update i dont have much except i pulled everything out of the core support to change my radiator, mount my intercooler, and replace my timing cover gasket and started to pull my tranny cuz i think i broke a shift fork and am working on making a new gas tank out of 14ga steel.

just an update... i have both my axles out from under my truck getting ready to get regeared. i also got my new 4.5 lift springs for the front that im gunna stack with my 2 inch spacer i already have now im working on figuring out my control arms and steering plus my rear air ride... i was gunna go with a 2 link solid mounted to the axle but that wouldnt allow the rear axle to flex much at all so im back to the drawing board

what are you going to do for exhaust manifolds? Are the studs on the exhaust side straight, with square ports so you can flip the stockers?

For anyone that thinks a single HX35 is enough to feed 488 gas engine cubes, go read my poston page 3 of my build, I break down the math on how to size a turbo. If anything, he should be putting dual HX40s on this beast.

oh one more thing. You need to pull the housings off and check the turbine and compressor wheel's inducer/exducer diameters, as well as blade counts. You have two different models there, and to ensure you have a balanced system, you need to verify housings and wheel sizes are equivalent, otherwise you're going to have tuning issues.

Speaking of tuning, I recommend megasquirt. Check it out here:

www.megasquirt.info

they are both the same size just one has an internal wastegate and one is non wastegated which i am changeing the housing on one of them and i am going to use external wastegates... the original manifolds are reversible but nothing in stock form will work so i am going to make a flange and then buy prebent tubes to make my own headers... and i got the 2 hx35s im gunna run for next to nothing and they are in great condition so if it dont work atleast i will have everything mocked up so i can switch out the turbos fairly easy... and i did read ur post and that is a very good explanation of how to read a map... a better explanation of how it was explained to me on theturboforums... but like your motor is expandable and basically just to play with so are my turbos and i like ur imput and hope to keep getting it and im hoping to make boost down low to get more power down in the lower rpms

they are both the same size just one has an internal wastegate and one is non wastegated which i am changeing the housing on one of them and i am going to use external wastegates... the original manifolds are reversible but nothing in stock form will work so i am going to make a flange and then buy prebent tubes to make my own headers... and i got the 2 hx35s im gunna run for next to nothing and they are in great condition so if it dont work atleast i will have everything mocked up so i can switch out the turbos fairly easy... and i did read ur post and that is a very good explanation of how to read a map... a better explanation of how it was explained to me on theturboforums... but like your motor is expandable and basically just to play with so are my turbos and i like ur imput and hope to keep getting it and im hoping to make boost down low to get more power down in the lower rpms

You might want to look on Ebay for V-10 headers, there are always sets of V-10 Stainless headers on there with BIN prices starting at~90.00. They might be worth it for you, if just for the flanges and stubs coming off the head. Unless you have acces to a CNC water jet / laser / plasma the time savings aole would make them worth it. Not sure if they would clear, but flipped and reversed they might line up nicely for your twins up fron of the motor.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=dodge+V10+header&_sacat=6028&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=dodge+V10&_osacat=6028

the thing with shorty headers off of ebay is that the collectors run right into my power steering pump and air pump(which wont be there but there will be another pump there) and i have a plasma cutter at work that will work great for cutting my flanges to keep them from warping... i didnt notice any stubs though what would u be refering too when you talk about stubs?

I meant if you just cut the headers up, but saved the first 3-4" of tube coming off the head, hell you might be able to just cut them off near the collector, and finish them up to wherever you want.

I'd imagine a 5 tube collector would be difficult to find as well, there are not many popular applications for that.

yeah thats a good idea ive been keeping that in mind... the hard part with that is finding the stainless and welding it and then ive heard alot about those cheap headers warping and cracking... just a though id really like to hear opinions on... im tossing around the idea of instead of throwing more fuel too it per pound of boost to inject propane when under boost... propane has a higher octane rating and would be colder when injecting which would bring the air temp down... just a thought

Instead of propane, I'd go with toulene, or E-85 IMHO. Not sure on the headers durability, I still have not installed mine. They look to be pretty well made. I got mine for 89.99, and picked them up in Indy, so I don't have much to lose if they don't work out, especially considering that the Gibsons go for what 500.00 or so?

Pricey, but, these guys make 5 into ones:

http://www.stainlessheaders.com/mergecollectors

If you're not going to run shcedule 10, or schedule 40, I'd recommend 321 stainless. It will hold up better in the high temperatures and resist creep more.

Instead of propane, I'd go with toulene, or E-85 IMHO. Not sure on the headers durability, I still have not installed mine. They look to be pretty well made. I got mine for 89.99, and picked them up in Indy, so I don't have much to lose if they don't work out, especially considering that the Gibsons go for what 500.00 or so?

If you're going to have OBA, toluene injection is super simple, and would do wonders, I think. I'll let you know for sure in about a year... :D

If you're not going to run shcedule 10, or schedule 40, I'd recommend 321 stainless. It will hold up better in the high temperatures and resist creep more.

schedule?? planning on using pipe?? interesting.

already did... Used schedule 10 on my headers in my build thread.

Works better than mild tube, as it usually doesnt need to be braced.

Interesting thread man, keep the updates rolling.

Thinking about it. There is no sub for cubic inches! I forgot about my 97 dakota with dana 60s with four links front and rear plus 44 inch pits. Maybe I will put up some pics.

ok now im confused... what that have to do with my build?

Subscribed to see outcome.

My only turbo experience come from turbo charging my 4cyl honda, and in that application FMUs are typically coupled with MSD BTMs ... that said FMUs are a joke. I run Uberdata which is a free tuning software, complete control of fuel and timing maps is the only way to go. I agree with looking into Megasquirt. If not that then maybe motec or aem. I know some of the honda guys run aem with cam trigger ignition.

You can get a good deal on wide band o2 sensors here http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2609901 which is a must.

A basic tuning guide http://www.phearable.net/tech/efibeginnerguide.html

A good place for tuning equipment and a good tech center with how tos and shiz http://www.xenocron.com/techcenter.php

And Jeff Evans is a killer aem tuner with a forum where you can ask him questions and stuff http://www.evans-tuning.com/

ive looked into aem and the only controller they have will controll my injectors but not timing... dodges are always the hardest thing to tune cuz for some reason theres not much out there for it as far as tuning for boost... but i will check out those sites u gave me thanks

ok now im confused... what that have to do with my build?

:laughing:

Thinking about it. There is no sub for cubic inches! I forgot about my 97 dakota with dana 60s with four links front and rear plus 44 inch pits. Maybe I will put up some pics.

ok now im confused... what that have to do with my build?

:laughing:

id imagine that newb just wanted to tally up a few more posts on his counter and try and make himself known by bragging bout his 97 dakota... anyways no real updates except this weekend i gotta pull my gears out of my axles and im procrastinating cuz i just got done putting that front axle together with locking hubs and just put the rearend in the truck all to just take it all back appart again :D

lurking around.... cant wait to see some pics/vids of this beast comming together...
did you get the new housing yet? what are you waiting for now? Im sure you have looked in to this but have you talked to any of the viper tuners? what about the turbo manifolds that the viper guys are using for their twin turbo set-ups?

well on the viper twin turbo setups they actually mount the turbos in the exhaust at the back of the vehicles under the car...

this is what i got done this weekend
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/0906091506.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/0912090919.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/0912090919a.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/0830091911.jpg

got the rear frame stripped down for prepparation for air bags and pulled the gears out of both axles to change from 3.55s to 4.10s

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/shawnsack/0906091442.jpg

and got new front springs

If you're going to have OBA, toluene injection is super simple, and would do wonders, I think. I'll let you know for sure in about a year... :D
whats the advantage over a water/meth setup? I turned my washer bottle into a meth injection system on my XR4Ti and it worked great for cooling my intake charge, plus, washer fluid is cheap.

well i dont know what im running yet... but i tried running washer fluid as a water/meth agent in a celica i turbod and filed plugs like crazy... i ended having to run a legit water/meth mix from summit... and a quick question what does OBA stand for

On Board Air

An air compressor on board usually electric or an engine driven A/C compressor like a York converted to compress air.

If you're going to have OBA, toluene injection is super simple, and would do wonders, I think. I'll let you know for sure in about a year... :D

what does on board air have to do with injecting toulene or water meth? unless i compress the tank in which the fluid im using is in and then run it to an injector and then just have the injector open and close and the pressure inside the tank with force the fluid out??????

bingo.

Reason you need OBA is because a regular fuel or fluid pump will not pump it. Toluene will eat anything that's not steel.

I plan on using a SS tank, and lines, with a Valcore model SV330 SS solenoid valve (they have viton rubber seals, one of the few rubbers that will survive toluene). Mcmaster sells SS check and residual pressure valves, as well as SS misting nozzles to finish the system. I figured it would cost around $200 for the system.

bad ass dodge build I want to keep my eye on this one can't wait to see how she turns out

ok well then that makes sence and im already going to have OBA for my rear suspention... now what would happen if i took some toulene and put it in the gas tank of my car lets say mix it 10:1 with gas????? just curious

ok well then that makes sence and im already going to have OBA for my rear suspention... now what would happen if i took some toulene and put it in the gas tank of my car lets say mix it 10:1 with gas????? just curious

it will eat the piss out of everything that is rubber...

For the toluene guys, do you have any links showing dyno pulls? not arguing, just curious about what kinda bang for the buck you get.

as for fouling plugs on meth, you can't just run the gas station junk, i wa running some brand from NAPA that everyone swore by and was pushing around 20psi before i finally lifted the head.

this toleune stuff seems like some pretty bad ass shit...

am i the only one that noticed your truck is on cinder blocks??? you are making a twin turbo v-10 and you think cinder blocks are a safe thing to hold a vehicle up.... im not trying to be a prick but thats just stupid.:shaking:

ok i was waiting for it.... its not permanant and ive already got pounded about it from PS i have it temporarily sitting there till i figure out if that is its permanant resting place during the project and till i make something better...

you have more guts then i do then cuz i would never work on anything supported by cinder blocks. whether its permanent or not thats just not safe. My life is more important than workin on a truck.

updates?

Pretty sure he abadoned the project and is selling everything off. His link is on Pavement sucks.

http://www.pavementsucks.com/board/thread-Unemployment-leads-to-chevy-and-mostly-dodge-parts-for-sale-new-prices

yup i sure did... i had a for sale post just like the one on pavement here on pirate...