After conducting a thorough survey I've decided to go 5 on 5.5 lug on the D44 I'm putting together. I've got a RC out of a 78 F250. Nice thing about it is it already has flat top knuckles driver's side already has studs and is ready to go (on a side note if anyone has hints on how to pull the C-shape steering arm off the knuckle I'd appreciate it). I've searched and searched but haven't ran across anyone going to 5 on 5.5 and keeping these knuckles. The knuckles are 5 bolt set-up. The axle also has the huge dual piston calipers that mount wedge style to a removable plate that bolts between knuckle and spindle. I know I'm needing F150 hubs/rotors which I'm going to pick up at parts store....but what spindle/bearing/brakes will work with this set-up? I want to run 15" wheels. If I have to grind calipers down no big deal.

I'm swapping to the same axle. Easiest thing to do would be to get spindles, hubs, rotors, cailpers, caliper mounts, etc from a pre '80 1/2 ton Ford. They are super easy to find.

As for the steering arm, buzz the nuts off with an impact and thread them back on a littel to protect the studs, heat the arm around the cone washers with a torch and beat with a BFH until you are blue in the face, then have a buddy come over and have him beat it too, repeat until the three cone washers pop out. I've done it so many times on Chevy stuff that I can usually get it in about five minutes now, but the first few I did took forever.

just go rape an f150 for everything and call it a day. they have 5 bolt spindles, too

Originally posted by keithroo
(on a side note if anyone has hints on how to pull the C-shape steering arm off the knuckle I'd appreciate it

I tried just beating it off, but ended up using a cutting torch to remove it.
I can't help you with the rest of it. My 77 F150 RC44 had the common six bolt pattern for the spindles. That and the heavier tubes are what make the earlier drum brake models better.

Originally posted by Sundowner
just go rape an f150 for everything and call it a day. they have 5 bolt spindles, too

Yup :beer: Or better yet run it 8 lug ;)

I was hoping to be able to use everything of a Ford 1/2 ton and sounds like I can :D

Sounds like I need to get the torch out unless someone else has any better ideas? I've already been using the BFH approach without much luck.

Yup Or better yet run it 8 lug

Kieth, SHUT UP!
(I was gonna offer to take that USELESS 8 lug CRAP off of his hands):D

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Robert
[B]

I tried just beating it off
Just go rape and F-150

is this bb goin to the sexual deviates or what???

Originally posted by 4Bangler
then have a buddy come over and have him beat it too,

I saw that, too!

:flipoff2:

I've heard several toothless hilrods talking about haeting the arm with a torch an queching it with icy water to get teh cone washers out, but I find if you can get the area between the two cones opposite the "C" end of the arm cherry red, and smack the arm like you're smacking a newbie asking about 31's on a TJ, it usually pops the cones out.

lay knuckle on ground with c arm and lower ball joint on the ground so it is sideways then no need for cherry red a propane torch will do it too without heat treating your knucks then hikt it on top now the side w/ bfhalso try wd40 to cool the cones and a nail pulleron the top lip or tap them into themselves with a screwdriver

I was going to keep it 8 lug, but my rear is already setup for 5 on 5.5 and I really don't have access to pick and pull stuff very close here so I wanted to keep cost down to a minimum, also everyone I run with is 5 on 5.5 so it's a convenience thing. I'll give up a little strength, but it's a decent tradeoff. Rich I PM'd ya back about the parts.

Originally posted by 1BDYJ
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Robert
[B]

I tried just beating it off
Just go rape and F-150

is this bb goin to the sexual deviates or what???

What do you mean "is this bb goin to the sexual deviates or what?"


We have been here the whole time:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by norcaljeeper
lay knuckle on ground with c arm and lower ball joint on the ground so it is sideways then no need for cherry red a propane torch will do it too without heat treating your knucks then hikt it on top now the side w/ bfhalso try wd40 to cool the cones and a nail pulleron the top lip or tap them into themselves with a screwdriver

Please make your posts legible or dont post at all. Thanks. :flipoff2:

I've had good luck removing arms with a BFH( like 4LBS), a large pointed chisel (~18"), and a sixpack. Work your way around each stud, close to each cone but not close enough to ding up the cone seat or you'll be fawked. I have removed several this way without heat.

Originally posted by Keith Strong


Yup :beer: Or better yet run it 8 lug ;)

I second that!
Go 8 lug because if you ever want to run a FF60 or 14 bolt in the rear you will be screwed if you have 5 or 6 lug. If you are set on running 5 lug I would tell you to just run 6 lug because the parts are easy to find.

Originally posted by keithroo
(on a side note if anyone has hints on how to pull the C-shape steering arm off the knuckle I'd appreciate it).

Use a really good penetrant like PB Blaster or Kroil and thoroughly saturate the area around the cone washers and the mounting face where the steering arm and knuckle meet. Let it sit overnight. Next morning beat the hell out of the steering arm on all sides and all directions. Watch the cone washers and look for the slightest crack between the arm and knuckle. Once you see any crack or gap around the cone washers stick a screw driver in the crack of the washer and try to spin it around the stud. It will walk right up the threads of the stud. If none of them are loose keep pounding until one of them becomes loose. Keep going until all three are off. I did this just two days ago and it took all of ten minutes to get everything removed. Quality penetrating oil is the key. Don't use WD40. It's for corrosion protection and sucks for breaking down existing corrosion.

I'm glad I don't pay any of you by the hour to work on axles. :flipoff2: Hit the SIDE of the arm. The washers pop out very quickly. No heat, no other tools besides a BFH. Took all of a few minutes to get a arm off for me on Saturday.

Originally posted by LAME
I'm glad I don't pay any of you by the hour to work on axles. :flipoff2: Hit the SIDE of the arm. The washers pop out very quickly. No heat, no other tools besides a BFH. Took all of a few minutes to get a arm off for me on Saturday.

Been there, done that many times. Had to hit from every direction and use lots of penetrating oil to get every one I've done free. Six pound hammer on the handle of a three pounder, so it isn't a matter of a big enough hammer either.

Wow, every one Ive done has been a matter of tapping downward on the end of the arm for a bit then backing the washers out with a screwdriver.

Originally posted by cmegoup


Been there, done that many times. Had to hit from every direction and use lots of penetrating oil to get every one I've done free. Six pound hammer on the handle of a three pounder, so it isn't a matter of a big enough hammer either.

:confused:

The method I described works really good for me, and I am dealing with MN parts that are very, very rusty.