I know this is not the way to build steering when doing crossover. I would never do this on my rig but this guy has had this setup for some time now and has had no problems. He has run Rubicon a couple times and been to Hollister many times as well. So please give me your opinions on this setup. Again this is not my rig and I know this is not the correct way to do this but I wanted to know what is so horrible about going this route.

Thanks, Phil:usa:

I don't know much about it, but there is a guy in town running a similar setup on his rig. It's been about three years or runs to the Con, Moab, etc. ???

mounting the tie rod below the arm makes it alot stronger. The drag link pushes one way, and the tie rod pushes the other. This puts most of the stress on the bolt, it does not try to twist the arm. Putting the tie rod above, they both push the same direction, giving a "single shear" effect, not a "double shear" effect, and there is more stress trying to twist the arm...

I think that is a cool setup, certainly not the best for grond clearance, but if you have to mount both tie-rod, and drag link with only 1 bolt, that is the way to do it.

One problem I saw with it is that that piece of 1/4" is just mig welded to the cast knuckle. Yes it is a good size bolt and the steel will help but it still does not look like it will hold over time. But it has....

Phil:usa:

Um im thinking Dangerous as hell!:confused:

One problem I saw with it is that that piece of 1/4" is just mig welded to the cast knuckle. Yes it is a good size bolt and the steel will help but it still does not look like it will hold over time. But it has....

The steel plate is not taking very much stress. That's why it will hold up. I guess what i wrote doesn't make sense to anyone else, huh?

Originally posted by elf_cruiser


The steel plate is not taking very much stress. That's why it will hold up. I guess what i wrote doesn't make sense to anyone else, huh?

I get what you are saying. Makes sense.

Phil:usa:

Originally posted by ROCKTACO
Um im thinking Dangerous as hell!:confused:

ummm...tell us what you are thinking. Your not going to offend anyone.

Phil:usa:

Originally posted by elf_cruiser
mounting the tie rod below the arm makes it alot stronger. The drag link pushes one way, and the tie rod pushes the other. This puts most of the stress on the bolt, it does not try to twist the arm. Putting the tie rod above, they both push the same direction, giving a "single shear" effect, not a "double shear" effect, and there is more stress trying to twist the arm...

I think that is a cool setup, certainly not the best for grond clearance, but if you have to mount both tie-rod, and drag link with only 1 bolt, that is the way to do it.

Well, I have to disagree. When turning right, the drag link pushes on the top of the arm forcing the passenger knuckle to turn right. This, in turn, drags the drivers knuckle after. With the tie rod on the bottom it is pulling the tie rod. So, drag link is pushing on top, tie rod is pulling on bottom, there is your twist on the arm. The only thing that gets balanced top and bottom is feedback from the passenger tire. If they were both mounted on top, the stress on the arm would only (well, mostly) be the passenger knuckle turning. The drag link would be pushing on the bolt with the tie rod pulling right below. Seems to me that puts much less stress on the arm.

Furthermore, I think the top plate will see a great deal of stress since it is the only thing keeping the spacer pin from levering over. Now, it's allot less than a free standing top mount steering arm, but non-trivial in any case.

Not that I’m saying it won’t work, obviously it does. Just doesn’t look ideal…

Am I missing something or misunderstood?

Well, I have to disagree. When turning right, the drag link pushes on the top of the arm forcing the passenger knuckle to turn right. This, in turn, drags the drivers knuckle after. With the tie rod on the bottom it is pulling the tie rod. So, drag link is pushing on top, tie rod is pulling on bottom, there is your twist on the arm. The only thing that gets balanced top and bottom is feedback from the passenger tire. If they were both mounted on top, the stress on the arm would only (well, mostly) be the passenger knuckle turning. The drag link would be pushing on the bolt with the tie rod pulling right below. Seems to me that puts much less stress on the arm.

Thanks, that is what i was trying to say. I guess it came out wrong. You are right about the leverage on the arm, I meant that this setup will not try to twist the bolt. It will try to shear it in 2 places, top and bottom. I think there is more stress on the bolt with this setup, than with having them both mounted on top, which takes stress away from the thin plate on top, yes??

so your saying it would be better like this...All other things being the same, have both the draglink and tierod on top of the knuckle? Still not ideal but this is better to you?

Phil:usa:

A thicker spacer would help prevent some twisting on the bolt as well. Welding it the plate may not hurt either...eh?

Steve N did this on the scrambler as a temp. thing so he could go on jeepers jamboree. what he did was drill and tap 2 holes near the balljoint and bolt it in and filled that with weld, then instead of the spacer in the pic he just stackers fat washer/spacers and welded them together and to the arm and stuck and the rest was just like in the pic, worked good for him,2nd time hes done it on a jeep both on 30 fronts.

Originally posted by Philip Schuyler


I get what you are saying. Makes sense.

Phil:usa:

Well i think what is concerning me is that the plate on top (looks like 1/4)Is under alot of side to side stress.As soon as that starts to give(mushroom) it will start to rock that bolt back and forth,and that is when things could get scary.If it goes you wont steer.I would imagen that you would "feel" it go but is that what you want?

I guess what im trying to say is there is a reason that people dont do it that way.And this is the reason that people spend the big bucks on real high-steer arms.


My .02 cents......I hope it works for you ,..............I wouldent run it!

Elf, yes, that's what I was thinking.

Phillip, yes, I think it would be better if they were both on top AND that thin plate were heavier, much heavier...

Originally posted by BadDog
Elf, yes, that's what I was thinking.

Phillip, yes, I think it would be better if they were both on top AND that thin plate were heavier, much heavier...


yeah everything need to be heavier

what are those 5/8 hiems? so what bolt size does that make...and I am willing to bet is not a grade 8
and yes arm needs to be way thinker...and joined to lower arm as well s upper knuckle

and also both ends of the bolt need a think washer big enough that a broken hiem can't fit over...just incase

For that matter, I think ideal would be bigger heims/bolt mounted above the arm on the knuckle with a thicker top arm that bolts on (like a D44 arm) so the heims would be in double shear. Only problem would be potential misalignment interference on the drag link heim...