So far in my search it looks like only one person has done this disc swap and they did it buy just swapping in the entire axle. Are these disk brakes, rotor and parking brake compatible with the older 14 bolts?

I found the whole swap locally, but i'm a little skeptical since I couldn't find any details on it. This is goin on a toyota btw :smokin:

So to make sure I got this...your wanting to take a newer 14bolt
brakes and put it on an older 14bolt? Why not just take the while axle?

the backing plate flange is different from the 1 gen style 14 bolt, rotors are in the hundreds ea, and youll have the calipers facing forward(problem?) so youll need to figure out the ebrake cable orientation.

So to make sure I got this...your wanting to take a newer 14bolt brakes and put it on an older 14bolt? Why not just take the while axle?

Yep, because I already got a locker and gears setup in my current axle.

the backing plate flange is different from the 1 gen style 14 bolt, rotors are in the hundreds ea, and youll have the calipers facing forward(problem?) so youll need to figure out the ebrake cable orientation.

I got a guy selling me the whole brake setup for $200 and new rotors are only $50.

So the backing plate isn't the same 4 bolt pattern? I can't find any info on these anywhere other than hearsay...Any pictures? Is the backing plate flange removable to swap out?
Any info is appreciated!

they are definatly not gonna bolt up to a non disk brake 14 bolt

just so happens im on lunch and i have an 05 2500hd 14bolt with discs in my bay. newer backing plates are still 4 bolt pattern, but if its going to be offroad, do you have to use the backing plates? if not you could just fab a caliper bracket and figure out the ebrake after you get working hydraulic brakes.
the ebrake setup has the arm through the backside, and the cable has the rectangular slotted peice on the end that hooks on the arm. hope that helps a little

just so happens im on lunch and i have an 05 2500hd 14bolt with discs in my bay. newer backing plates are still 4 bolt pattern, but if its going to be offroad, do you have to use the backing plates? if not you could just fab a caliper bracket and figure out the ebrake after you get working hydraulic brakes.
the ebrake setup has the arm through the backside, and the cable has the rectangular slotted peice on the end that hooks on the arm. hope that helps a little


I was poking around more on the net and found that usually the backing plates are spaced differently, so if anything it sounds like there needs to be a spacer installed or welding on a new backing plate to the old axle to fit the newer brakes.

Heres a guy who put discs from a 10 bolt onto his 14
http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/showthread.php?t=441553


I definitely need to have the backing plate because I just want to bolt this thing up.. So the newer backing plate is the same?

I put newer drum in hat e-brake disc setup on my 14b, but it wasn't from a newer 14b..... it was from a D70. The whole point of swapping these brakes onto an axle is for the e-brake setup..... otherwise there are countless disc conversions for them. My setup is a hybrid using D70 rotors onto modified 14b hubs with a custom axle mounting flange. I've posted the link a gazillion times.... search for it if you're interested in checking it out.

My setup is a hybrid using D70 rotors onto modified 14b hubs with a custom axle mounting flange. I've posted the link a gazillion times.... search for it if you're interested in checking it out.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=483369&page=2
Seems like too much work for me, but you did end up with a awesome setup.




Looks like some people are buying a spacer and mounting 10bolt axle disc brakes with an e-brake.

http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/showthread.php?t=402503
http://virginia4x4.com/spacers%20for%20rear%20disc%20brake%20conversions. html
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/offroad/390329-disk-brake-swap-w-e-brake.html

Newer 14bolt brakes will not just bolt up. you need to change the 4 bolt mounting flange to the new style. the old style the bolts are seperated in a square not sure of the measurements but the upper and lower bolts are all spaced the same from each other. On the newer style 14 bolt the mounting flange bolts are spaced closer together on the top and wider on the bottom some they will not bolt right up. what you can do is cut off the old mounting flange make a new one to fit the new style mounts and weld it on. You will also need the mount for the caliper and park brake since there is no such thing as an ebrake or emergency brake. you dont ness. need the stamped sheet metel backing/dust shield but it would be good if you are offroading it. HOPE THAT HELPS.

the old style the bolts are seperated in a square not sure of the measurements but the upper and lower bolts are all spaced the same from each other. On the newer style 14 bolt the mounting flange bolts are spaced closer together on the top and wider on the bottom some they will not bolt right up. what you can do is cut off the old mounting flange make a new one to fit the new style mounts and weld it on.


Good info!
I might end up picking up the newer brake setup and making a mounting flange.

Good info!
I might end up picking up the newer brake setup and making a mounting flange.

Just get the whole axle. I paid 300$ for my 06 14bt. My gear guy charged me 75$ to swap over my gears, ARB, and high angle toyota flange. The newer axles also have ribs on the bottom that should help it slide over rocks better than the older model. They also have factory fill and drain plugs. Get the e-brake cables as they seem to be hard to come by.

http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv90/dniel_photos/rear%20axle/2233002.jpg

The newer axles also seem to have a little bigger tubes.

http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv90/dniel_photos/rear%20axle/03.jpg

Id double check that rotor cost as in new from parts stores. I scored a whole setup from a 14 bolt off ebay once, brand new takeoff for $50. The rotors didnt have the exact duplicate beef as the popular 70's early 80's 3/4 ton chevy rotor used for disc conversions. the rotor slips on over the hub, mock up your backing plates and theres your placement for the flange. just copy the backing plate mount onto some plate for the flange. Ive seen the TRUCKS! guys on spike make the ebrake cables with just a wire clamp, but this axle has the pull from the front top, and the rear bottom of the cable, look at the stock figuration of the cables and you'll see what I mean.

Id double check that rotor cost as in new from parts stores. I scored a whole setup from a 14 bolt off ebay once, brand new takeoff for $50. The rotors didnt have the exact duplicate beef as the popular 70's early 80's 3/4 ton chevy rotor used for disc conversions. the rotor slips on over the hub, mock up your backing plates and theres your placement for the flange. just copy the backing plate mount onto some plate for the flange. Ive seen the TRUCKS! guys on spike make the ebrake cables with just a wire clamp, but this axle has the pull from the front top, and the rear bottom of the cable, look at the stock figuration of the cables and you'll see what I mean.

Yep, the wire clamp ebrake idea was my first thought.
I called up a gear install place and they said to change over my gears I'd have to go new races/bearings ~$75 and install $150. Not sure if I should pick up the brakes or axle now.. We'll have to see

When I ground the tabs off the ruff stuff perch it fit the tubes so I'm guessing the tubes are dana 70 od. I'm not a gear guy but I think the carrier bearings should be the same so I don't know why you would need new ones. I think all the gear guy had to do was re shim the pinion depth.

The later hubs use a different seal setup also. The seal is pressed over the old seal surface and seals in two places. It looks like it would work a lot better to keep dirt/mud out of the bearings. The new seals also eliminate the grooves in the spindle since the inner seal rides on the new replaceable seal thats pressed over the old seal surface. Damn that was a crappy sentence.....

I'm gonna compare caddy escalade calipers from a 6 lug 10 bolt on a 14 bolt with a H2 8 lug rotor tommorrow. Maybe i'll find something that works better soon.

I wrote this up to document the effort to finding factory disc rears with e-brakes, so now its searchable!

note: I haven't physically tried to assemble rotors on this setup to see if it actually works, but from the specs and research it looks like it should work:-D. I also haven't confirmed interchangability of calipers/rotors between everything so there may be even MORE options for brake setups with respect to calipers and discs. Hummer H2, Avalanche, 2500HD, Silverado, Yukon, they all use similar rear disc setups somewhere between 2000-2005 or posibly even earlier!

GOOD NEWS:

Looks like I might be able to put together a setup. I played around with a new Cadillac escalade EXT (looks like avalanche) which has 10 bolt axle with a big dual piston brakes and a Drum in hat emergency brake. This axle has axle shafts with the lug studs on it in 6 lug pattern.

I installed the brake backing plate & the caliper onto an old Suburban with a 14 bolt FF axle. The 4 bolt backing plate are slightly narrower than the 14 bolt backing plate, but it was under 2mm or something, so the escalade backing plate bolt holes can be massaged out with a drill.

The only thing I was not able to do was to mock up a 8 lug rotor with this drum in rotor hat design because I didn't have anything else. The 00-05 2500HD Silverado comes with a 14 bolt FF and uses the same drum in hate disc brake E-brake setup, but the backing plate bolt pattern is different (as said in earlier posts). Hummer H2's also have the same rear disc setup, so we might be able to use their rotors.I am thinking that we can use the escalade backing plate with either the [escalade caliper + 2500HD rotor] OR the [2500HD caliper + 2500HD rotor + escalade or possibly silverado bracking backing plate]


MY 14B FF hub diameter is ~4.5 and is tapered to about 4.8 toward the inside. The 2500HD rotor is 1.14" thick and escalade rotor is 1.19, so the 2500HD rotor will fit between the caddy caliper

OR another option may be to do what somebody else did by using dodge ram 1 ton rear drum in hat disc rotors because the rotor thickness is 1.19", but the length of the 14B FF hub at the rotor/hub stud mounting surface had to be shaved down some. diameter of these rotors is ~12.75" compared to the stock 13" I think regular silverados or other newer chevy trucks/suv had a smaller 2 piston or 1 piston rear caliper that used smaller discs, so these might be able to be used. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=483369&page=2

FOLKS, i think we have a bolt on type of brake/e-brake solution here!
Pics:

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/2072/img00103d.jpg
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/3167/img00104f.jpg
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/5038/img00105u.jpg

The caliper bleeding screw is facing up in this orientation and it could be re-arranged to get the caliper in the back, but the bleeder would be facing down. Could possibly put this passenger side backing plate on the driver side to keep this orientation, but have the caliper facing the back. I did a quick measure and it might be possible to fit a 15" wheel on this. 16" fits for sure. Could be possible to use a smaller caliper (2500HD or silverado) to get more clearance for a 15".
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/6475/img00109i.jpg
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/2322/img00110u.jpg
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/7225/img00117nmy.jpg


Other info
The yukon has the SAME rear disc brake setup as the caddy
The 2500HD 4x4 chevy truck has different backing plate so it doesnt bolt to the older 14BFF axles, but you could always make a flange and weld it onto your axle so it can bolt.
The other silverados 00-05 10 bolt axles came with rear discs too, but smaller calipers (single piston i think). I'm not sure what diameter rotors would fit.
I'm not sure if the backing plates for the 2500HD, yukon and silverados are all the same. Its possible that they are and they just used different calipers and rotors.


If spacers need to be used we can always get some DOM tubing to push out the whole thing since the drums were wide to begin with. http://wehrs.no-ip.com/projects_pages/jeep_axles3/DSCN2502.JPG

Heres another option for a spacer: 60mm or 2.36" aluminum spacer from http://www.virginia4x4.com/spacers%20for%20rear%20disc%20brake%20conversions. html
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo91/heslekrants/14boltRearDiscSpacers60mm.jpg



PIX of factory Chevy 2500HD rear disc's: check out the smaller calipers vs the escalade/yukon calipers. It might even be possible to use these calipers on the escalade backing plate.
http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww167/trplxl2/100_2246.jpg
can see the removal of theses here http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25592

the inside of the 6lug rotor(hat) and the 8lug rotor are different, the ebrake pads are a different radius bend.

Damn, your right!!! Dont get my hopes up!!! :laughing:

How are you checking interchangeability? I did notice napa lists the parking shoe as different specs... Any suggestions?

I'm gonna have to look at this stuff to see if anything can be swapped over to make it work..

I just remeber when I looked into it, you may be able to use the 6lug components and redrill the rotor to 8 lug tho. Im not certain if 8lug hub will fit in the 6lug rotor hat.

Man, these trucks have a lot of differences!

2001+ Chevrolet suburban 2500 V8
This thing has 8 lug rotors which fit over the FF hub.
Napaautoparts shows this thing uses the same parking shoe as the caddy/yukon!!

They ALSO list 2 other rotors which are with the same as the 2500HD!