Anyone make axle shafts for a 9" with the 6x5.5" (Toy/GM) pattern? I'd rather not use an adapter.

I plan to do a full-width swap on my '85 'Yota. A buddy of mine has a pair of 10-bolt axles F & R that he will give me for free. I have a D44 and 9" from my '78 Bronco that I also have my eye on. The D44 is out due to driver's drop, and I would much rather use the 9" than the 10-bolt...

I just got a brand new set of wheels and tires for it (6-lug of course), and would rather not mix and match 5 and 6-lug front and rear...

Just about any axle manufacturer has them. I would *assume* it would be a blank and you'll have to tell them length/spline count and have them cut.

Moser (http://www.moserengineering.com/) can redrill the existing shafts. They can also make custom axles with whatever bolt pattern you want.

If you search around here, there are people who have actually done it themselves with a drill press.

You'll have to redrill the drums as well. Or perhaps order custom axles with the hub circle the same as a chevy and use chevy drums, if they'll fit.

I haven't heard good things about the 10-bolt axles. A step up would be a 73-77 Blazer axle, which is a Dana 44 with 3" tubes and passenger side drop. They're cheap and plentiful.

Thanks for the replies fellas. I gotta work the next 3 weeks straight...so free time will be short :( I'll check around the junkyards and see what I can find. '73-77 have flat-top knuckles correct? I just read the info somewhere last night... :confused:

a 10 bolt and a 44 are basically the same strength wise. The issue has been beat to death. I'm not a toy expert, but I don't think you are gaining any strength by putting a gm axle in there. only width.

a 10 bolt and a 44 are basically the same strength wise. The issue has been beat to death. I'm not a toy expert, but I don't think you are gaining any strength by putting a gm axle in there. only width.

I know the issue has been beaten around, as I have read many posts on it and have weighed both sides. My main reason is to gain width. My wheeling areas have a lot of off-camber sections. The 1/2 ton housings are much stronger than the Toy's, and the internals can be build stronger (especially the 9").

Also, in my experiences parts are cheaper and more plentiful for the 1/2 tons as well.

Best part is...the axles are free! Well...I'm going to try to find a D44 before I settle on the 10-bolt. It's my OCD kicking in... :flipoff2:


*Edit*
I only plan to run 36-37's on the stock 22R for now. My buddy has a 283 he'd give me...but I don't see spending double the cost of the truck for a swap kit :shaking::mad3:

I'm a noob, but I thought the D44 was stronger than a 10-bolt. '73-'77 Blazers were D44/12-bolt (front/rear). '78+ Blazers were downsized to 10-bolt/10-bolt.

'73 to '77 have a flat top drivers side knuckle that's milled and drilled, but the passenger side is not flat top. At least the 2 that I've worked with. But who knows. Like any GM, they probably use whatever comes down the assembly line.

Some have 2.75" O.D. tubes and some have 3" O.D. tube. Might as well get the heavier one.