Project 84

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo44/Beastmaster85/Hodge/DSCN06360004.jpg

I Got this 84 Ramcharger for free from my wifes uncle, it had a rod knock and he had parked it for over two years. I removed and sold the 360 that was in it as a rebuilder. I purchased a running 318 fo $400 to put in it till I got the 360 from my old 85 Ramcharger redone.

Mileage on the runner was unknown, and now 10k into it, the engine is on its way out. So now onto the 360 rebuild.

I am not completly sure about the mileage on the Beasts Engine, but I know it was under 25k, it was installed in 1998 and while i was in the military it did alot of sitting. I tore down a good running motor, idiot move. So now I gotta put it back together.

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo44/Beastmaster85/Hodge/Beast3601.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo44/Beastmaster85/Hodge/DSCN04460003-1.jpg

I got a Flex hone to recondition the cylinders for the new piston rings that I will be installing.

After:

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo44/Beastmaster85/Hodge/360BuildUP016.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo44/Beastmaster85/Hodge/360BuildUP013.jpg

http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo44/Beastmaster85/Hodge/360BuildUP001.jpg

Bit the bullet and did it and must say I think it looks pretty good. Timeline for this is to get it done before September. The engine swap itself will be a one weekend deal.

Does anyone have the part number for the front oil pan seal? Can it be bought seperately or just in the kit?

I don't have the part number, but Advance caries them seperately. I tore mine changing the waterpump.

Ok, got the engine in and running, but am having a hell of a time with it.

Runs great at start up, will drive great to where I'm going, but after it sits after being driven and getting warm, it craps out. It almost sounds like a diesel hunting the was it surges. I thought maybe the ignition module was going out, but replaced it, no change. Thought maybe the OEM (guessing, but pretty sure) ciol was getting heat soaked , replaced it, no change. I am lost on this one. Any thoughts?

Double check your timing and make sure you are not vapor locking.

Double check your timing and make sure you are not vapor locking.

Will do that this weekend.

Now, since emission testing is no longer needed and alot of the vacuum connections are weathered, I am thinking of removing as much as I can. How will this effect over all performance?

Couldn't hurt as long as you are just eliminating possible vacuum leaks.

I am actually considering removin all the vacuum controls and going back to basics. The engin has no smog pump, and still has both catalitic converters installed. I Jus wonder if by doing it, would I effect the overall performance of it.

If you have an EGR valve and you remove the vacuum lines to it, remove the valve completely and put a plate over the holes. These can usually be found on a lot of '70s 318 2BBL truck engines in the junkyards or you can just make one. I would probably keep the EGR if it's working as it does help with cold engine performance. Vacuum advance you will want to keep and any vacuum lines that run into the heater box for the heat and A/C controls. The rest you can usually junk with no problems if you are trashing the whole system. I considered doing the same thing on my old '84 Ramcharger because my new valve covers for the engine didn't have any provision to hold the vacuum amplifier on the passenger side cover but I just made a bracket and replaced all the vacuum lines and never had any issues out of it.

How does the EGR help with cold starts if the electric choke is set properly?

It is just an idea right now anyway. I have to get my timing reset, readjust my choke and carb and swap out my bottom 3 groove pulley for my 4 frove one.

Might want to redo your pics also... they are not working from good old PhotoBucket.

How does the EGR help with cold starts if the electric choke is set properly?

It is just an idea right now anyway. I have to get my timing reset, readjust my choke and carb and swap out my bottom 3 groove pulley for my 4 frove one.

EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation

It's designed to keep combustion temps lower than normal to reduce emissions but an added benefit is better cold and off idle performance in a lot of vehicles. The only real reason to disable the EGR, in my opinion, would be in a race only engine where you want the intake charge to be as cool as possible.

EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation

It's designed to keep combustion temps lower than normal to reduce emissions but an added benefit is better cold and off idle performance in a lot of vehicles. The only real reason to disable the EGR, in my opinion, would be in a race only engine where you want the intake charge to be as cool as possible.

EGR also dilutes the Incoming A/F mixture with exhaust that will not burn, at least it will not burn as well as the A/F. Thus reducing the HP output of the engine. I have never run EGR on any of my Vehicles, and have never noticed any cold weather problems.

This is friggin pissin me off. Went to adjust the timing sunday afternoon, went thru it step by step, found TDC, Checked the wires, Made sure the rotor was in the right spot, and it wouldn't start. Went and got a fresh battery (other one gave up the ghost).

Wen thru it again today with fresh battery, now it will fire only when the key is in the start position, dies when disengaged, swapped out starters, same deal. Now I am considering my starter switch and starter relay as potential problems. Any ideas, I need to get this thing running asap.

Most likely the coil resistor.

Most likely the coil resistor.

Starter relay and switch replaced. Coil resistor/ballast resitor replaced. Still no fire. Went thru the timing again, found TDC, checked the wires. Have fuel. It won't friggin run.

Time to get out the multimeter and find out where you are losing power.

Time to get out the multimeter and find out where you are losing power.

Ah, the joy of not having one. :mad3:

Well after banging my head on the wall over this friggin thing, its running.

Went thru all the electrical components, and am back to the original coil, ECU, and distributor, but new ignition switch, ballast resistor (coil resistor), and starter relay.

Also determined that the Edelbrock 1406 was in dire need of a rebuild, so made a deal with a rebuilder I found on craigs list. Gave him (2) Carters I have had on my parts bench forever and the Eldebrock plus $50 in cash for a freshly rebuilt Carter AFB. It may be that he got the better deal, but I did not have the time to go thru and rebuild the Edelbrock, and I like seeing the Carter on there instead.

After all this, the 360 seems to be running like a top with timing set at 12 (factory timing is 14) degrees BTDC, carb set and 20 inches of steady vacuum.

Kinda romped on it to "test" the new carb, now I need a new Passenger side shock mount, any on know where I can find on other than a Junkyard?

Am looking into removing all the vacuum crap, the lines are factory and getting brittle. I am getting tire of the rats nest, but am wondering how removing them will effect driveability. I no longer have emissions testing, and the smog pump was long gone befor I got it. How much of a hassle will this endeavor be?