Prodigy states that you should not test your brake away switch with the trailer connected or you may damage the prodigy unit. Is this because you get 24 volts to the unit instead of 12? Can I place a diode between the trailer and the truck to keep the additional 12 volts from back feeding the prodigy unit? Or would I be better off to use a relay that would stop voltage from traveling back to the truck?

Also, does anybody know how much current that a brake controller will output?

Thanks
WAP

Prodigy states that you should not test your brake away switch with the trailer connected or you may damage the prodigy unit. Is this because you get 24 volts to the unit instead of 12? Can I place a diode between the trailer and the truck to keep the additional 12 volts from back feeding the prodigy unit? Or would I be better off to use a relay that would stop voltage from traveling back to the truck?

Also, does anybody know how much current that a brake controller will output?

Thanks
WAP

What's your concern? Just don't pull the break away pin with the trailer plug connected to the truck. If you just have to test it, unplug the trailer and then pull the break away pin. If you're worried about smokin' the controller if you should lose the trailer, I would think you're gonna have a hell of a lot more to worry about than $100 brake controller.

Well said, just unplug it and pull the pin. If you are thinking about your controller when the trailer comes loose then you might better leave the towing to someone else. Ive done some mighty stupid acts in my day behind the wheel but having a trailer come loose behind you will make most things look like childs play. 10k lbs with a mind of its own will about make you kiss the ground if you come through unscathed.

I smoked an older Tekonsha controller (okay, had it smoked for me by a buddy who didn't know any better,) and my brother burned out another the same way. I can't tell you exactly what the failure issue is, but I sure wouldn't pull the breakaway switch with the trailer connected to the towrig.

Well said, just unplug it and pull the pin. If you are thinking about your controller when the trailer comes loose then you might better leave the towing to someone else. Ive done some mighty stupid acts in my day behind the wheel but having a trailer come loose behind you will make most things look like childs play. 10k lbs with a mind of its own will about make you kiss the ground if you come through unscathed.


I am not worried about the cost of a new box. I like to do things the right way, not half assing them.

I am not worried about the cost of a new box. I like to do things the right way, not half assing them.

That is the right way.... unplug the fawkin' trailer from the truck, then activate the break away device. After all, that is the set of conditions you really want to test... making sure the trailer brakes and the break away battery are going to work when the trailer departs the tow rig.

Or were you going to run a 1000' extension harness so you could keep your hazards functioning on the trailer as it passes you and heads into oncoming traffic? :flipoff2:

Or were you going to run a 1000' extension harness so you could keep your hazards functioning on the trailer as it passes you and heads into oncoming traffic?

x2

:laughing:

I am not worried about the cost of a new box. I like to do things the right way, not half assing them.
do it the right way unplug, test, replug. This is the right way, not the halfass way and, not the over thinker way either

Or were you going to run a 1000' extension harness so you could keep your hazards functioning on the trailer as it passes you and heads into oncoming traffic? :flipoff2:

Seems like I would only need about 900', want to make sure that oncoming traffic can see the blinkers as it comes towards them.:flipoff2:

Thanks for the information.

WAP