: Scot II Cage to frame connections


Bo185
07-20-2009, 01:52 PM
SCOUT II!

So I got my main hoop up and front in. I need to tie the cage to the frame. My plan was to connect the main and rear to the frame and not worry about the front as it sets next to the body mount.

I planed on making the cage removalable and bolting the cage feet to the connetor through the body.

Any one have pictures of there cage connectors to the frame Scout II or anything!

Looking for some ideas.

Thanks!

Mechanos
07-20-2009, 02:09 PM
SCOUT II!

So I got my main hoop up and front in. I need to tie the cage to the frame. My plan was to connect the main and rear to the frame and not worry about the front as it sets next to the body mount.

I planed on making the cage removalable and bolting the cage feet to the connetor through the body.

Any one have pictures of there cage connectors to the frame Scout II or anything!

Looking for some ideas.

Thanks!

Yeah, I'd be worried about tieing the rears and the mains to the cage a LOT more so than mains and the fronts because, personally, I sit between the rears and the mains when I drive mine.

Blind Driver
07-20-2009, 03:51 PM
Several vendors make the tie-ins, but I didn't save the links.

I'm thinking......:homer:

R290
07-20-2009, 03:57 PM
Here some ideas

http://www.rockfrogs.org/Pictures/EE/Cage/14_C_pillar_frame_tie-in2.JPG

http://www.rdmoffroad.com/ProductImages/gen-right/roll%20cage%20frame%20tie%20in.jpg

Poly Performance kit here (https://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Cage-Tie-In-Kit-p-433.html)

I tied mine to the body mounting points. I did notice the front body mount started to crack at the frame, welded them up and its fine, but will add some more beef to that area.

Edit.. don't forget to make the bottom plate a 1/2 bigger all the way around than the top plate to prevent cracking of the sheet metal. If body fatigue is not an issue, just weld to the frame with no bushing.

Bo185
07-20-2009, 05:55 PM
Here some ideas

I tied mine to the body mounting points. I did notice the front body mount started to crack at the frame, welded them up and its fine, but will add some more beef to that area.

Edit.. don't forget to make the bottom plate a 1/2 bigger all the way around than the top plate to prevent cracking of the sheet metal. If body fatigue is not an issue, just weld to the frame with no bushing.Thanks guys.

My plan was to mock something up and post pictures and let ya'll poke holes in it!

Damn that's look like a pretty good deal for the tie-kit!


And how much of and angle or bend can I have from frame to mount?


Or could I hard mount the tube to the frame and just put a piece of rubber on the bottom plate between the tub and top plate and use grade 8 hardware?

ChiScouter
07-20-2009, 06:35 PM
Open up 43.13-1A and come up with something new:D

Snoopy
07-20-2009, 06:50 PM
Doesn't RuffStuff have componants that you can build something like that?

Bo185
07-20-2009, 07:04 PM
Open up 43.13-1A and come up with something new:DI use it alot! :D

Bo185
07-20-2009, 07:09 PM
Doesn't RuffStuff have componants that you can build something like that? Thanks D.
I'll check their site.

danny Israel
07-20-2009, 08:19 PM
I don't care for those tie-ins they don't provide any support for the frame or body.
I hope this helps. We did the floor as an after thought but it provided some good pics of the cage pads

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa233/dannyisrael_2007/Picturesthatneedtobesortedout131.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa233/dannyisrael_2007/Picturesthatneedtobesortedout132.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa233/dannyisrael_2007/Picturesthatneedtobesortedout224.jpg

:tank:

R290
07-20-2009, 11:06 PM
There like 3 schools of thought here.

1: Tie to the frame with bushing ( good for the body)
2: Tie to the frame like Danny shown. ( nice stiff cage hard on body)
3: tie to the frame and just use a hole saw and leave a little bit of clearance.
( bad for winter driving, but can be sealed up with foam)

If really depends on what you want in the end. Some extend the cage out into the engine bay to help support the frame too. I would just mess around and build something. Bo185 I'm sure what ever you do will work just fine for it's intended purpose. My cage could use more work, all in due time.

Bo185
07-21-2009, 10:13 AM
There like 3 schools of thought here.

1: Tie to the frame with bushing ( good for the body)
2: Tie to the frame like Danny shown. ( nice stiff cage hard on body)
3: tie to the frame and just use a hole saw and leave a little bit of clearance.
( bad for winter driving, but can be sealed up with foam)

If really depends on what you want in the end. Some extend the cage out into the engine bay to help support the frame too. I would just mess around and build something. Bo185 I'm sure what ever you do will work just fine for it's intended purpose. My cage could use more work, all in due time. I was think about doing it like danny and just mounting a 1/2 or 1'' rubber pad on top of the frame tie-in to help aliitle with cushioning it.


Well hell guess something is better than nothing! Just covering my bases. I'll come up with some!

Thanks Everyone!!
-Scott

R290
07-21-2009, 12:20 PM
Truckers mud flap might work for that

Scouty
07-21-2009, 11:58 PM
My cage is tied in similar to Danny's. The rear bars attach directly to tube welded to the frame. The front bars attach to my sliders that are welded to the frame. Cage work performed by IHONLY North.

http://www.ihonlynorth.com/forums/attachments/ih-only-build-ups/1312d1202675092-matts-full-width-scout-ii-img_1446.jpg
http://www.ihonlynorth.com/forums/attachments/ih-only-build-ups/1307d1202675092-matts-full-width-scout-ii-img_1434.jpg
http://www.ihonlynorth.com/forums/attachments/ih-only-build-ups/1294d1201718048-matts-full-width-scout-ii-img_1424.jpg

Bo185
07-22-2009, 11:49 AM
I need a bender!!!!:flipoff2:




That cage is a work of ART!!!:beer:

Urban Wheeler
07-22-2009, 12:33 PM
This is on a Scout 80.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/Fryloc/scout%20build/scout80005.jpg