I am looking for axle advice for my 94 disco build. I rolled my bosses truck and ended up purchasing it from him due to lack of insurance. So i cut the top off and narrowed the rear (baseing my build off of lanes truggy... nice work Lane!). Well, I am about to start the cage and have started thinking about the axles. I have already broken one of my stock rear axles with the 32's on it, so... I can't decide what i need to do, I would like to run 37-39's under it when complete and don't know what I should run them with. I have a d44 8 lug and matching 14 bolt rear, both stock that I could gear and lock, but I am afraid they would be over kill, especially with the narrowed rear, and possibly narrowed front??? I could build cheap them though... Or I could build the Rover axles? I know people put Toyota axles under them, but what are they out of and would my cost of having to purchase and then build them be worth it? Also the Rover axles, if i build them (gears and lockers) how much would that cost me and how strong will they be? I hope I have given ya'll enough to talk about, I am basically looking for suggestions and advice. It will probably be a bit till I have the money to do anything with them, but if I have a plan, at least I know what to start watching for.
Thanks,
Brian

Toy is the way to go, go to rovertracks .com. They will be plenty strong enough, they use rover housings, so they bolt right up.

post some pics of your truck.

Toy is the way to go, go to rovertracks .com. They will be plenty strong enough, they use rover housings, so they bolt right up.

post some pics of your truck.

x2, call Keith and save yourself the hassle of reinventing the wheel.

Will the RoverTracks stuff hold up to 37-39 in tires?

Will the RoverTracks stuff hold up to 37-39 in tires?

discodino beats on them with 42s or so and alex has some similar sized meats that he's been abusing for a while.

Thats good to know. They seem to be pretty reasonably priced too. I will try to get some pictures up soon. I am hopeing to go buy the tubing this week and get started on the cage next week. I am in the middle of moving out of my apt and into a house so progress is going to be a little slow for a while. Like I said I am just trying to get an idea of which way to go. If i were to completely change over to toyota stuff intead of the rovertracks stuff, what am I looking for, years and models??? I have access to quite a few junk yards and like I said I am def on a budget...

I am afraid they would be overkillAny amount of time on this board will teach you there's no such thing.

Any amount of time on this board will teach you there's no such thing.

Well, I definitely know that. I have always thought stronger is better, but I was trying to open my ears and look for my best option since I am not on any schedule with this. I didn't know if the ground clearance would be an issue if I did run 37's... Also, I didn't know if they would be too wide and look goofy since I have dovetailed the rear and will probably narrow the front before all is said and done. Thanks for your help guys, I need it.

or you could just pick up a set of lc80 axles and fit them.

depending on spec, they should have electric lockers on both diffs, diff ratio is lower than rover stuff to compensate for bigger tyres and should be plenty strong enough...


unless you drive like a twat with the throttle pedal welded to the floor all the time.

there was a set in the classifieds just the other week. probably still there.

or you could just pick up a set of lc80 axles and fit them

What do the lc80 axles come out of? I am assuming Toyota, but what models and years? I have a really good working relationship with a few junkyards around here and could possibly pick some up for next to nothing if they have any.

Well, I definitely know that. I have always thought stronger is better, but I was trying to open my ears and look for my best option since I am not on any schedule with this. I didn't know if the ground clearance would be an issue if I did run 37's... Also, I didn't know if they would be too wide and look goofy since I have dovetailed the rear and will probably narrow the front before all is said and done. Thanks for your help guys, I need it.

All you have to do is look at mine.. Its 37s with rovertracks 30- spline, you can see how it looks form all angles..

lc80 = Land Cruiser 80 series.

No way they are strong enough stock for 37s.

lc80 = Land Cruiser 80 series.

No way they are strong enough stock for 37s.

wanna bet...:shaking:I know of 1 fj80's and 2 fzj80's running 37's on stock birf's and rears, haven't broken anything other a rear elocker. The rear axle shaft is the same diameter as a stock 60.

I really like the rovertracks stuff. My only delima is money. I know I could gear and lock the d44/14 bolt I have and be done for under $1000 bucks. If I go with the Rovertracks stuff, I am gonna have that in them plus gears and lockers. My thoughts if I decide to go with the full width axles are that if I run H1 wheels that they would pull my tires back in and make it look about normal... I don't think I am gonna go the LC80 route simply because I would have to buy them, replace the axle shafts and then deal with the gearing and locking. I think I just need to decide between the 8 lug stuff and suffer from clearance issues or save a little longer and get the Rovertracks stuff. Thanks for all the help guys, I will try to get some pictures up soon.

Yes....

I used to live in Australia. 97% of the trucks are Toys. Wheeled with Cruisers every outing. Watched them break all the time. Axles, gearboxes, t. cases, you name it, not a problem. Most serious guys that were building trucks all switched to Patrols because the axles were too weak when the 80 series came out.

I really like the rovertracks stuff. My only delima is money. I know I could gear and lock the d44/14 bolt I have and be done for under $1000 bucks. If I go with the Rovertracks stuff, I am gonna have that in them plus gears and lockers. My thoughts if I decide to go with the full width axles are that if I run H1 wheels that they would pull my tires back in and make it look about normal... I don't think I am gonna go the LC80 route simply because I would have to buy them, replace the axle shafts and then deal with the gearing and locking. I think I just need to decide between the 8 lug stuff and suffer from clearance issues or save a little longer and get the Rovertracks stuff. Thanks for all the help guys, I will try to get some pictures up soon.I agree up to a point.
The 14 bolt will be fine but 37s on an HP44 is seriously pushing it.
Even with alloy shafts, 37s are about the limit with this axle, with the u-joints now the weak link (D44 has same joints as a D30)
If you want to go with stock junkyard axles (not meant as a slam at all) bump up to a 60 or 9" front.

I agree up to a point.
The 14 bolt will be fine but 37s on an HP44 is seriously pushing it.
Even with alloy shafts, 37s are about the limit with this axle, with the u-joints now the weak link (D44 has same joints as a D30)
If you want to go with stock junkyard axles (not meant as a slam at all) bump up to a 60 or 9" front.

I have these same axles under my wrangler with a 304 and 40in iroks and havent broken one yet, so that didn't really concern me. They both are 8 lug d44s, I don't know if that makes them any stronger but I did plan on putting alloys in the front if I go that route.

I have these same axles under my wrangler with a 304 and 40in iroks and havent broken one yet, so that didn't really concern me. They both are 8 lug d44s, I don't know if that makes them any stronger but I did plan on putting alloys in the front if I go that route.Then you're either sticking to trails(instead of rocks), very light on the skinny pedal, or very lucky.
Keep in mind a wrangler is also substantially lighter than a Disco, even a chopped one.

Keep in mind a wrangler is also substantially lighter than a Disco, even a chopped one.

That could be a deal breaker. So I am leaning toward the rovertracks stuff. It would be much easier and seems like it would be cheaper.

I really like the rovertracks stuff. My only delima is money. I know I could gear and lock the d44/14 bolt I have and be done for under $1000 bucks. If I go with the Rovertracks stuff, I am gonna have that in them plus gears and lockers. My thoughts if I decide to go with the full width axles are that if I run H1 wheels that they would pull my tires back in and make it look about normal... I don't think I am gonna go the LC80 route simply because I would have to buy them, replace the axle shafts and then deal with the gearing and locking. I think I just need to decide between the 8 lug stuff and suffer from clearance issues or save a little longer and get the Rovertracks stuff. Thanks for all the help guys, I will try to get some pictures up soon.

I'm picking up a Range rover classic in a trade with my buddy, my plan is to get a dana 44/14 bolt combo and just burn on brackets to make them work under the rover. If you already have the axles just go for it, or you could save up and buy a dana 60 front:flipoff2: Can always shave the bottom of your 14-bolt,


Where in memphrica are you? I'm about an hour away in MS

I'm another one that's more than happy to pimp the RoverTracks gear.

I've been wheelin on mine set of 30 splines with 37" Creepies for almost a year now for zero failures. I have also, in that time, witnessed a rig with 38" Creepies and RoverTracks axels simultaneously break the ball joint mount almost clean off the diff, break the crown wheel and snap the uni in the tailshaft, without any damage to the axels.

Where in memphrica are you? I'm about an hour away in MS

I'm in Arlington. Where you at in MS? I'm down there quite a bit. If you don't have a 44/14 combo yet, I might consider selling you mine if your interested...

Thanks for all the ideas and knowledge guys. I can't say it is gonna make my decision any easier, but you have all given me plenty of stuff to chew on...

;) ... to make it either easier or even more difficult: you need a stronger axle .. so you choose one with a stronger and much bigger diff-housing. To get back the ground clearance that you´d have gotten with the Rovertrack-kit (and Rover-axle) you will have to take bigger tyres by one size than you first wanted. So this speaks for the Rover-track approach.

Else I´d look into portals. Just for the challenge of finding and modifying them. I think the Volvo-Portal guys sound really happy with what they´ve got. Drum brakes being the only disadvantage. :)

I have a line on a set of FJ40 axles. Two sets one out of a 69, drum brakes up front(mainly for parts?), the other set out of a 76 disc brakes... I wouldn't have much more than a couple hundred bucks in them... they already have 4.11 gears, so I would prolly be ok not having to buy gears for a while and run 37's lightly, but what about the strength? What do you guys think? I know there is alot of Toyota stuff out there, but are these parts made for these axles??? What should I do?

For a Disco frame; FJ60 at the very least, seriously modified. FJ80 best bet. And 100 series if you got the green to spend. The FJ40 axles are a great drop-in replacement for Series trucks, as the track is within an inch of the Series axles. But even serious series trucks go to FJ60 stuff for real wheeling.

RTE one-ton swap... you won't be disappointed. There are several options along with this...

RTE one-ton swap... you won't be disappointed. There are several options along with this...

so is there a "kit" for this from rovertym now with all necessary brackets to make stock radius arms and suspension work? is it only for the DI or DII as well?

I have a line on a set of FJ40 axles. Two sets one out of a 69, drum brakes up front(mainly for parts?), the other set out of a 76 disc brakes... I wouldn't have much more than a couple hundred bucks in them... they already have 4.11 gears, so I would prolly be ok not having to buy gears for a while and run 37's lightly, but what about the strength? What do you guys think? I know there is alot of Toyota stuff out there, but are these parts made for these axles??? What should I do?

Find some 60 series diffs instead. If you get the bare housings, you can put the 40 3rd in and then get Longfields for the front. The rear axel studs are the weak point on any Toyo diff, but you can upgrade these easily enough. Chromo rear axels would also be on my shopping list.

The down side is these diffs are narrower than Rangie diffs.

so is there a "kit" for this from rovertym now with all necessary brackets to make stock radius arms and suspension work? is it only for the DI or DII as well?

Not to snipe work from RTE, but Paddocks has the brackets advertised every month in the UK magazines.

I have contacted them about repping them in the US, but they have not been timely in their response-yet.

Be a man...Rockwells and 54’s. Some one has to build the Gayest truck ever to one up Rikslandys!!!

Be a man...Rockwells and 54’s. Some one has to build the Gayest truck ever to one up Rikslandys!!!

No no no, I think I am goin to stick to the 37-39in range. Thanks for all the advice though guys. I will get some pictures up here as soon as I gety one of those little red stars.