Getting ready to buy a '98 ram 2500 with a 12 valve in it today.

Any concerns on these trucks?


It's a one owner extra cab long bed.

12V CTD
Auto
124000 miles


Amazingly clean.

Already know about the KDP and the autos are a little weak.

Any suggestions on the first upgrades. (aside from gauges). Will be used to tow my truck and my truck camper.

yes trannies are garbage.

after you buy it check the injection pump timing. They tend to slip over time and sap you of power and mileage. Bump it up to 15-16 degrees when you are checking it...

first upgrades after gauges are probably exhaust, intake, and move the fuel plate.

-ben

Check/adjust timing and fuel pressure. I haven't worked on a virgin 12 valve yet that doesn't need the overflow valve replaced or at least have its spring stretched.

The trannys are not garbage, but will need help quickly if you plan on making some power. As long as the tranny is working correctly all you should need is a good valve body and torque converter.

after you buy it check the injection pump timing. They tend to slip over time and sap you of power and mileage. Bump it up to 15-16 degrees when you are checking it...

This, and get a 3k gsk, out of all the beginning mods you can do this will be the best it will give you 500-1000 more useable rpm, stock starts defueling in the mid-low 2k rpm range and it done at 2700-2900rpm, this will raise it to 3200-3800rpm depending on your mods. After GSK grind your stock fuel plate flat, and get a BHAF.

Also go to competitiondiesel.com --> the CTD version of pirate.

Hey thanks everybody.

Went to pick it up last night and was pretty surprised to find a big ass "53" cast into the block:(

Decided to pass on it for now.

Not all 53 blocks are bad. Yes, it's a crap shoot. I've got one in my 99 with almost 260k miles on it. I've been running a Smarty on it for the last 2 years, and Jammer Stage II injectors for the last year.

I look at it this way. If it's got significant miles on it and hasn't cracked yet, I wouldn't worry about it.

I think the 53 blocks hold up better in front of a auto, but it's still a crap shoot.

Also with 125k on the clock plan on a front end rebuild and a steering box unless it's had it done.

Hell, I didn't even know the 53 block came on a 12v - I thought it was purely a 24v issue......learned something new :D

I have more than a few friends with 99-02 2500's with autos.....NONE of them had any tranny issues....granted, they just used theirs for daily use and pulling trailers under 10k pounds, but if left stock or even with a chip, NONE of them have had a single problem.....all of them with 100-200k miles now....

Granted, all of them did have to handle issues in the front end around 150k, but no tranny problems....if it's clean and had a good owner, that truck could still be a good value....

I don't know, what do you guys think?

here's the deal.

It's a two owner. I'm guessing the original owner was military because it was purchased not far from Hill Air Force base in Utah. and then moved to Colorado Springs. The Original owner had it for 7 years I think. The second owner traded it into a BMW/Mercedes dealer here in Denver after owning it for two years.

Carfax is clean and reports all dealer servicing.

Like I said, it's VERY clean.

Has a nice shell on the back, has all the camper mounts and wiring I need. Air bags in the rear. Brand new tires all around.

They want 12k for it.

here's the pictures

It does look clean, nice truck :smokin:

If it's just a daily driver and you just wanna pull one rig on a reg trailer, I say go for it....just check out the block, and for normal leaks and stuff....you might check the bed and frame rails to see if it spent some of it's life pulling a goose....

Hell, give it a day, he might just call you back with a lower price...

It does look clean, nice truck :smokin:

If it's just a daily driver and you just wanna pull one rig on a reg trailer, I say go for it....just check out the block, and for normal leaks and stuff....you might check the bed and frame rails to see if it spent some of it's life pulling a goose....

Hell, give it a day, he might just call you back with a lower price...

I really went over the rear of the truck and it's never had a goose of fifth in it.

Someone told me of some brace you can install that goes from a freeze plug to another part of the block to help stiffen it up? Ever hear of that?

He also said they are more prone to the cracking if you live somewhere that it gets cold but not cold enough to warrant plugging the truck in. And people just home in and take off in the morning without letting it warm up? Sounds logical to me....

Looks pretty clean.
I would offer $10,000 for it and see what they say. Tax and fees will bring it back up to around $12,000

Looks pretty clean.
I would offer $10,000 for it and see what they say. Tax and fees will bring it back up to around $12,000

I'm with woods, see if they can go $10k, bring up the concerns over the block..

I have never heard of that brace, but that is not saying a lot as I am a weak wrench at best....sounds like it's worth looking into....

Super clean truck.
Is under the hood that clean i hope not. That means someone pressure washed it and you'll have leaks show up every were. After you drive it for a while.

I would offer $10g for it to. $12g is alittle high. Did the mileage on carfax add up with the mileage. Thats super low for a 98.

Super clean truck.
Is under the hood that clean i hope not. That means someone pressure washed it and you'll have leaks show up every were. After you drive it for a while.

I would offer $10g for it to. $12g is alittle high. Did the mileage on carfax add up with the mileage. Thats super low for a 98.

Yeah the top of the engine was clean. Below, not so much. Not an oily mess, but not psi washed.

Mileage adds up. I think it was a an extra vehicle for somebody. Set aside just for the camper or something.

I think the price is high also. But trying to find a clean cummins, and I mean a clean one with low miles, you're just gonna pay for them.

yes trannies are garbage.

Oh brother...... you obviously have no clue what you are talking about.:shaking:

Oh brother...... you obviously have no clue what you are talking about.:shaking:

well set him/us straight.

What do you have to say about them?

I've read something on adjusting the bands? Change out the valve body? Converter?

Whats the key to keeping them together? I'd most likely do intake, exhaust, and one of those fuel plate things (no idea what size would be right).

What do you do to a trans to keep it alive behind that setup with a 2k pound camper in the bed and 7-8k in tow?

If its at a bmw dealer ship. That means there just think they can ask more for it. Go on audotrade and search a hand full of truck like that and see what the ball park price is for them.

Or find out what tradin is or owner sale price out right and dont go over that.

Im dealing with tranny thing right now. With that low of miles. If it shifts good and locks up fast in over drive. Do a T/C and V/B and change the fluid every 25,ooo miles. And keep close to stock size tire on it.
Intakes are a waste of money.
Do the fuel plate and exhaust and a set gauges and t/c and v/b upgrades.

Hey thanks everybody.

Went to pick it up last night and was pretty surprised to find a big ass "53" cast into the block:(

Decided to pass on it for now.Honestly, dont pass on it if you like it, as dumb as it sounds its really a 24v issue, this has been brought up on many forums and really thinking hard about it there has been only 1 maybe 2 guys that have ever had the problem with a 12v, for some reason they just dont crack w/ the 12v's

well set him/us straight.

What do you have to say about them?

I've read something on adjusting the bands? Change out the valve body? Converter?

Whats the key to keeping them together? I'd most likely do intake, exhaust, and one of those fuel plate things (no idea what size would be right).

What do you do to a trans to keep it alive behind that setup with a 2k pound camper in the bed and 7-8k in tow?The dodge tranny is probably the weakest stock tranny beside the earlier ford's, but hands down the strongest of the big 3s tranny's when built. Depending where you are at in N. America either call HTS, Garmon, NADP, or Goerend, and depending on the installer DTT, Id recommend skipping ATS and suncoast. But call them and they can get you what ever you need, but if I where going w/ anybody Id go Garmon IMO knowbody will beat his tranny's for holding the most power.

First thing I did when I got my 01 was swap out the valve body and torque converter with Goerend units.
Big change between the two setups.
My tranny was a fresh rebuild when I got the truck

I've read something on adjusting the bands?

Don't expect a miracle by adjusting bands. The rear band is rarely used and the front band is only applied in 2nd gear. I have yet to see a band adjustment actually fix what is ailing a torqueflite other than slight 2-3 shift problem.

Change out the valve body? Converter?

Whats the key to keeping them together? I'd most likely do intake, exhaust, and one of those fuel plate things (no idea what size would be right).

What do you do to a trans to keep it alive behind that setup with a 2k pound camper in the bed and 7-8k in tow?

All you need is a valve body and decent converter, assuming that the tranny is in good shape to begin with. There are plenty of people making good power with just this setup (including myself).

As far as the fuel plate goes, I wouldn't read too much into the plate profile or the claimed power gains. The plate controls little enough of the fueling that I'd just cut the stock plate flat and position it to get you the maximum amount of rack travel you desire. Spend the money saved on a plate on a 3k or 4k governor spring setup.

I said fuck it and bought it.

I said fuck it and bought it.

Congrats :smokin:

Great looking truck....hope it treats you well for years to come....

Congrats :smokin:

Great looking truck....hope it treats you well for years to come....

Thanks mang.:smokin: It's nice, I like it.

So far it needs:

1. more power
2. Front end work. Ball joints maybe, something is definetly up with the steering. You can turn the wheel a lot before the wheels turn. I've read theres some issues with the steering shaft/box. Need to find what the best fix is.
3. Better radio. stock '98 junk sucks.
4.more power.
5. something seems off with the shifting. It shifts great, nice, doesn't slip. What I notice is the downshifting. If you're running say 60 down the highway and stand on it, it won't downshift? I read something about TPS adjustments. I'm guessing that's all there is to it. Anyone have input?
6. Maybe some more power.

All and all it's awesome, glad I bought it. If it cracks, it cracks. Deal with that later.

Cool you found you a truck. But with all them problems you should have talked them down.
When i test drive a car i drive it for like a hour or two.
Just replace you steer box with one with warrenty. There know problems.
What did you mean by stock radio sucks?

Cool you found you a truck. But with all them problems you should have talked them down.
When i test drive a car i drive it for like a hour or two.
Just replace you steer box with one with warrenty. There know problems.
What did you mean by stock radio sucks?

There's no "problems".

Truck is fine. I can just tell things are a little loose up front. I totally expected it.

I meant the stock radio.......it sucks. Or the speakers suck. I want to upgrade the sound system.

Just replace you steer box with one with warrenty. There know problems.

:confused:

Check the bolts holding the steering box to the frame are tight.
A buddy had an 01 V-10 that would wander all over. I started to check for slop and found all four bolts loose.

Nice truck. Sometimes I think a 12 valve would have been a better way to go instead of my 24 valve

Check the bolts holding the steering box to the frame are tight.
A buddy had an 01 V-10 that would wander all over. I started to check for slop and found all four bolts loose.

Nice truck. Sometimes I think a 12 valve would have been a better way to go instead of my 24 valve

Thanks for the tip. I plan to give it a a full check over starting tonight.

slide under the truck put your hand on the upper track bar joint and have sone one rock the streering wheel back and forth. Also check slop on the pitman shaft out of the steering box.

If you turn up the power the slightest bit have a few thousand ready for a trans. You can mod the VB with some simlpe kits that will raise the line pressure that can help

You can turn the wheel a lot before the wheels turn. I've read theres some issues with the steering shaft/box. Need to find what the best fix is.



From what I have read, This is the best bang for your buck to take out the steering slop at the box

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-02-DODGE-CUMMINS-4X4-STEERING-GEAR-BRACE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2 Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a1205Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksi dZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem3a4fda2cc1QQitemZ2504 47801537QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccess ories

Best price I have found too..

Also if your Track bar is bad, Spend the money for the second gen track bar swap, I did a Lukes link and it works well, but wish I would have went with the second gen bar.

From what I have read, This is the best bang for your buck to take out the steering slop at the box

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-02-DODGE-CUMMINS-4X4-STEERING-GEAR-BRACE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2 Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a1205Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksi dZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem3a4fda2cc1QQitemZ2504 47801537QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccess ories

Best price I have found too..

Also if your Track bar is bad, Spend the money for the second gen track bar swap, I did a Lukes link and it works well, but wish I would have went with the second gen bar.

I have never heard of the brace before. I'm not sure if it is needed. I would invest in new front end parts first before buying a brace.

Also, Do you mean 3rd generation track bar? It already hasa 2nd gen bar.

From what I have read, This is the best bang for your buck to take out the steering slop at the box

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-02-DODGE-CUMMINS-4X4-STEERING-GEAR-BRACE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2 Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a1205Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksi dZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem3a4fda2cc1QQitemZ2504 47801537QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccess ories

Best price I have found too..

Also if your Track bar is bad, Spend the money for the second gen track bar swap, I did a Lukes link and it works well, but wish I would have went with the second gen bar.

For the steering, take this mans advice. That brace is cheap and really does help a lot. And while a 3rd gen trac bar is and upgrade, go after market, its another item that does wonders for steering. Those two things and a new steering stab. while make it while a 1000% better.


For more power, like I said before, 3k gsk or 4k gsk kit, and if you are thinking down the road get a 5k gsk kit (thinking about it either do the 3k gsk kit or 5k gsk kit (it as better down low fueling than the 4k gsk and has better street manners)). This will give you so much more useable power, its unreal.
http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/gsk-rpm-governor-spring-kit-9498-dodge-12v-cummins-p-148.html

Along with that gauges, next dont buy a plate, grind yours flat- freebie. Along with a BHAF, youll have quite a bit of power.

From what I have read, This is the best bang for your buck to take out the steering slop at the box

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-02-DODGE-CUMMINS-4X4-STEERING-GEAR-BRACE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2 Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a1205Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksi dZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem3a4fda2cc1QQitemZ2504 47801537QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccess ories

Best price I have found too..

Also if your Track bar is bad, Spend the money for the second gen track bar swap, I did a Lukes link and it works well, but wish I would have went with the second gen bar.

Hmm.. I read different?
http://www.dieselbombers.com/cummins-corner/12835-2nd-gen-steering-brace-facts.html

I have never heard of the brace before. I'm not sure if it is needed. I would invest in new front end parts first before buying a brace.

Also, Do you mean 3rd generation track bar? It already hasa 2nd gen bar.

Checked all the ball joints and tie rod ends last night. both are fine.

Track bar.........Needs some lovin' I'm thinking this http://thurenfabrication.com/stocktb.html

Also the lower u joint on the steering shaft has some play in it and the steering box could stand to be tightened a bit. So this is on the list.

http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/9502-dodge-25003500-borgeson-steering-shaft-assembly-p-885.html

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/19-10-97.htm


For the steering, take this mans advice. That brace is cheap and really does help a lot. And while a 3rd gen trac bar is and upgrade, go after market, its another item that does wonders for steering. Those two things and a new steering stab. while make it while a 1000% better.


For more power, like I said before, 3k gsk or 4k gsk kit, and if you are thinking down the road get a 5k gsk kit (thinking about it either do the 3k gsk kit or 5k gsk kit (it as better down low fueling than the 4k gsk and has better street manners)). This will give you so much more useable power, its unreal.
http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/gsk-rpm-governor-spring-kit-9498-dodge-12v-cummins-p-148.html

Along with that gauges, next dont buy a plate, grind yours flat- freebie. Along with a BHAF, youll have quite a bit of power.

I'm doing a straight pipe with the stock 3" tonight because I have the material needed already and I want to see how loud it is opened up. I have a feeling it will be to loud for my liking though. Going to do the BHAF tomorrow. It has a K&N stock replacement in it now. It's kind of dirty, not too bad though. I just hate K&N's. I'll also fab up a shroud for it.

I'm not familiar with the fuel mods yet. I'm still reading what to do. Thanks for the link though.

From what I have read, This is the best bang for your buck to take out the steering slop at the box

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-02-DODGE-CUMMINS-4X4-STEERING-GEAR-BRACE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2 Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a1205Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksi dZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem3a4fda2cc1QQitemZ2504 47801537QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccess ories

Best price I have found too..

Also if your Track bar is bad, Spend the money for the second gen track bar swap, I did a Lukes link and it works well, but wish I would have went with the second gen bar.


Theres the truth! Those stabilizers really do help a lot. They act as a crossmember to stiffen the frame up front as well as eliminate any play in the sector shaft. The stock box design even brand new is not great and they get a little play very quickly. The lukes link works good for the track bar but with a leveling kit a 3rd gen bar takes the cake. Bushing to bushing, and aftermaket ones may come with delrin bushings.

I have never heard of the brace before. I'm not sure if it is needed. I would invest in new front end parts first before buying a brace.

Also, Do you mean 3rd generation track bar? It already hasa 2nd gen bar.

Yes sorry, It was the 3rd Gen I was talking about.. I would have went with that on my rig but you cant run it with a 4in lift...

Track bar.........Needs some lovin' I'm thinking this http://thurenfabrication.com/stocktb.html

Also the lower u joint on the steering shaft has some play in it and the steering box could stand to be tightened a bit. So this is on the list.

http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/9502-dodge-25003500-borgeson-steering-shaft-assembly-p-885.html

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/19-10-97.htm




I would do that Thuren track bar and the borgenson shaft, I have heard VERY good things about both of those mods, And if you still have problems then I would look into the steering brace.

Thats a clean 12 valve

Very Nice

Someone told me of some brace you can install that goes from a freeze plug to another part of the block to help stiffen it up? Ever hear of that?

http://www.locknstitch.com/Repair%20pdf%20files/Cummins%205.9%20reinforcement%20%20instructions.pd f

http://www.locknstitch.com/Repair%20pdf%20files/Cummins%205.9%20reinforcement%20%20instructions.pd f

Great link! Thats good tech right there.. Ive never seen that before. :)

Has a nice shell on the back, has all the camper mounts and wiring I need. Air bags in the rear. Brand new tires all around.

They want 12k for it.

here's the pictures

I have an identical leer on my '95, dad has one on his '98. The hinge mounting bolts tend to wear into the fiberglass. Go ahead and put some fender washers under the nuts before they get worse. The shells tend to crack in the corners sometimes too. Other than that, a good solid shell compared to a lot of others out there.

Spend the money saved on a plate on a 3k or 4k governor spring setup.

Don't take my word 100% for it, but I think I remember reading that the 4gsk is a 3gsk spring with another smaller inner spring to increase tension. When we installed my brother's 3gsk in his '96 215hp truck, the directions weren't clear, and we left the shims in with the new spring. It was VERY sensitive in the throttle. :laughing: If you want to save on the springs, there are directions on competition diesel IIRC that tell how to shim the stock spring with a washer to get a similar effect. Planning on doing that to my '95 soon.

Thanks mang.:smokin: It's nice, I like it.

So far it needs:

1. more power
2. Front end work. Ball joints maybe, something is definetly up with the steering. You can turn the wheel a lot before the wheels turn. I've read theres some issues with the steering shaft/box. Need to find what the best fix is.
3. Better radio. stock '98 junk sucks.
4.more power.
5. something seems off with the shifting. It shifts great, nice, doesn't slip. What I notice is the downshifting. If you're running say 60 down the highway and stand on it, it won't downshift? I read something about TPS adjustments. I'm guessing that's all there is to it. Anyone have input?
6. Maybe some more power.

All and all it's awesome, glad I bought it. If it cracks, it cracks. Deal with that later.

2. Jack up each side of the front one at a time, pry up on the tire with a 2x4 and see if the wheels have any up and down play- either ball joints or bearings.

5. Search on dieseltruckresource.com and the TDR(recommend the membership as the forums IMHO are the best out there) for replacing the TPS with a cheap potentiometer. I've been using one on my '95 for several years and the only drawback is that it won't kick down when you floor it. That's not always a bad thing though. You can force a kickdown a few different ways though.

From what I have read, This is the best bang for your buck to take out the steering slop at the box


Best price I have found too..

Also if your Track bar is bad, Spend the money for the second gen track bar swap, I did a Lukes link and it works well, but wish I would have went with the second gen bar.

Look for the DSS from solidsteel.biz or solidsteel.ca The one I used was windecker machine, I think they are the original maker and use quality bearings.



Checked all the ball joints and tie rod ends last night. both are fine.

Track bar.........Needs some lovin' I'm thinking this http://thurenfabrication.com/stocktb.html

Also the lower u joint on the steering shaft has some play in it and the steering box could stand to be tightened a bit. So this is on the list.

http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/9502-dodge-25003500-borgeson-steering-shaft-assembly-p-885.html

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/19-10-97.htm




I'm doing a straight pipe with the stock 3" tonight because I have the material needed already and I want to see how loud it is opened up. I have a feeling it will be to loud for my liking though. Going to do the BHAF tomorrow. It has a K&N stock replacement in it now. It's kind of dirty, not too bad though. I just hate K&N's. I'll also fab up a shroud for it.

I'm not familiar with the fuel mods yet. I'm still reading what to do. Thanks for the link though.

My brother has a thuren track bar and tie rod set on his truck, it made a huge improvement! I have the lukes link on one and it does ok, but not great. He also used the newer dodge steering shaft, it appears to be better than the borgeson. Leastwise, it is better than the borgeson he replaced.

The straight 3" exhaust sound varies from truck to truck, mine isn't too loud. It drones on the interstate a little, it was real bad on my brothers '96. Different hp ratings, gears, and power bands. Pulling out the silencer ring is kinda fun- doesn't add power but I like the whistle. It was unbearable on my stock '96 though.

Consider getting a donaldson/amsoil cleanable filter instead of the BHAF. Lasts longer, flows more air.

The TDR released their buyers guide to nonmembers, probably worth a download(pdf file). Its on their home page.

Last, throw out the fuel heater. Seriously, pull it off the truck and throw it away, it's unnecessary and can burn your truck to the ground. Out of our 7 12v trucks, 2 caught fire- we were lucky enough to catch them in time and put it out, 2 or 3 melted the plugs as well.

As far as an intake kit goes, Everyone I have talked to said it was one of the most noticeable mods he did. I would to with the S&B filters kit. Their filters block the most dirt and is a pretty cheap kit. The cheapest Kit you will find is a Summit kit for about 200 but it comes with a crappy filter and the S&B filter is 70 bucks which adds up to the same cost as the full S&B kit. I have also heard that intake horns do nothing.

As far as an intake kit goes, Everyone I have talked to said it was one of the most noticeable mods he did. I would to with the S&B filters kit. Their filters block the most dirt and is a pretty cheap kit. The cheapest Kit you will find is a Summit kit for about 200 but it comes with a crappy filter and the S&B filter is 70 bucks which adds up to the same cost as the full S&B kit. I have also heard that intake horns do nothing.

An intake kit made a noticeable difference on a stockish 12V? I pull the duct piece that connects the stock air box to the fender first... supposedly it's pretty restrictive.

Don't take my word 100% for it, but I think I remember reading that the 4gsk is a 3gsk spring with another smaller inner spring to increase tension. When we installed my brother's 3gsk in his '96 215hp truck, the directions weren't clear, and we left the shims in with the new spring. It was VERY sensitive in the throttle. :laughing: If you want to save on the springs, there are directions on competition diesel IIRC that tell how to shim the stock spring with a washer to get a similar effect. Planning on doing that to my '95 soon.

The 3k governor spring setup is the same as the 4k one minus the smallest spring that goes in the center. I'd always suggest buying the 4k kit and deciding which way you want it to be.

The larger the rpm range you are trying to govern the more sensitive the throttle pedal will be. The 887 and 913 pumps (215hp) also have a lighter governor assembly from what I understand which probably doesn't help with a sensitive pedal. Make sure that all the throttle return springs are there and not broken and you should be golden.


As far as an intake kit goes, Everyone I have talked to said it was one of the most noticeable mods he did. I would to with the S&B filters kit. Their filters block the most dirt and is a pretty cheap kit. The cheapest Kit you will find is a Summit kit for about 200 but it comes with a crappy filter and the S&B filter is 70 bucks which adds up to the same cost as the full S&B kit. I have also heard that intake horns do nothing.

Your friends must not have much done to their trucks then. I view intake and exhaust as supporting mods, not mods for power. I gained way more from doing pump work than I ever noticed with an intake and exhaust on a stock motor.

I wouldn't even waste my time buying an intake kit when you can build your own if you can do a little sheet metal work.

The 3k governor spring setup is the same as the 4k one minus the smallest spring that goes in the center. I'd always suggest buying the 4k kit and deciding which way you want it to be.

The larger the rpm range you are trying to govern the more sensitive the throttle pedal will be. The 887 and 913 pumps (215hp) also have a lighter governor assembly from what I understand which probably doesn't help with a sensitive pedal. Make sure that all the throttle return springs are there and not broken and you should be golden.




Your friends must not have much done to their trucks then. I view intake and exhaust as supporting mods, not mods for power. I gained way more from doing pump work than I ever noticed with an intake and exhaust on a stock motor.

I wouldn't even waste my time buying an intake kit when you can build your own if you can do a little sheet metal work.


Truth!


BHAF (http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/search.php?searchid=3197578)

On my 98 I ran 4K gsk, BHAF, home ground fuel plate and a straight 4" stainless exhaust turbo back and that was plenty enough to destroy the NV4500 and stock clutch. :D With a few hundred bucks that'll feel like a whole different truck.