Anybody have the spec for D1 Draglink/TR tapers?

Hi if this is the same part as 'ball joint' the taper is 1 in 10 or 5.7deg, just made some for our Force 9 project. Regards Ian Ashcroft

Thanks IAN :beer:

Hi if this is the same part as 'ball joint' the taper is 1 in 10 or 5.7deg, just made some for our Force 9 project. Regards Ian Ashcroft


I'm guessing a 60 Series LandCruiser uses totally different tapers in their TRE's?
Too bad, would have been easier. Now I'll have to craft a 60Series drag link to a RR draglink to fit the 60Series PAS to my IIa Landy :(
Never been a fan of welding up steering parts:shaking:

I'm guessing a 60 Series LandCruiser uses totally different tapers in their TRE's?
Too bad, would have been easier. Now I'll have to craft a 60Series drag link to a RR draglink to fit the 60Series PAS to my IIa Landy :(
Never been a fan of welding up steering parts:shaking:

Get a reamer and ream it.

Get a reamer and ream it.

If that's possible I'll do that. I'll have to look into that. It's going to be a job for next year though, gotta find a RHD 60 series steeringbox first..

Get a reamer and ream it.

Or thread your tie rods to accept Rover ends.

Toyota Rod ends with the 23mm thread are some of the toughest TREs available. they also have a better range of movement than most.

the myth that fj80 tie rod ends are tough has been perpetrated here on pirate for years, the truth is they are the same size as a tercel with a big 23mm thread...( go look at a tercel )

the fj80 tre necks down to .550" where it meets the pivot ball , that's pretty teeny weenie

the size of the thread is immaterial , as long as the 1.5 x D rule is followed on thread engagement it's not going to pull out anyways.

the myth that fj80 tie rod ends are tough has been perpetrated here on pirate for years, the truth is they are the same size as a tercel with a big 23mm thread...( go look at a tercel )

the fj80 tre necks down to .550" where it meets the pivot ball , that's pretty teeny weenie

the size of the thread is immaterial , as long as the 1.5 x D rule is followed on thread engagement it's not going to pull out anyways.


Bbbbut, the SKY IS FALLING!:D

Alex is the only person I know who consistently breaks tie rod ends. What does it tell you when one person seems to have all the problems with a part?:flipoff2:

YES!!!

When I built my high steer system I thought about using FJ80 TREs, until I saw one up close. Weenie. The Rover TREs are actually pretty good and they have a good range of motion. I used ES1020 1 tonne Dodge TREs for the tie rod and the two Chevy high misalignment 1 ton ends for the drag link, but if I was doing it again I would use Rover ends on the drag link. They are plenty good.

It's pretty sad that the whole Toyota hi steer market has gone for FJ80 TREs... Except OTT :grinpimp:

(And 4x4 labs :D)

the whole FJ80 thing started in 1994 with the Marlink ( a heavier duty tie rod marketed by Marlin crawler as a stock replacement part back when "built" toyota mini trucks still had push-pull steering ) because they fit the stock steering taper and had a big thread they became the de-facto standard . OTT produced the first billet high steer kit in 1995 ( and not with the fj80 TRE ) :)


oh yeah, the reason I was in the in the Rover section in the first place is because I recently purchased a 1959 series 2 88" and I was snooping around for steering ideas ( it will be receiving a complete drivetrain swap because the frame and the body are the only things that are decent about it , everything else will require too much time/effort/money to be worthwhile )

It's sad that you have a Series II, and you're not restoring it. It would be better to see you sell it for a IIa, or restore it to original. The II was only made for four years, and is actually the rarest of the Rovers, less of them than the SI's.

I am pretty far from being a purist as far as restoration goes , I just don't see the sense in spending time and money fixing old junk parts to in the end have shiny gloss black old junk parts that are not any stronger/less leaky/reliable than when you started ?

in a sense this truck will be a hot rod , keeping the rover style and sensibility but upgrading the hard parts for power ,braking and safety . I want something I can drive , not just sit back and look at

Understandable; that's why you need a IIa. So one of the purists can restore the II, before you destroy what is one of only a four year run.

Understandable; that's why you need a IIa. So one of the purists can restore the II, before you destroy what is one of only a four year run.

They built 190,000 series IIs, and although they're one of the rarer models there's still plenty left, particularily over here in the UK. Just get on with it and cut that bugger up:mr-t:

all right then.... I will

if I remember I will post a new thread of the horror:eek:

oh yeah, the reason I was in the in the Rover section in the first place is because I recently purchased a 1959 series 2 88" and I was snooping around for steering ideas


The Scout II power stearing conversion is very easy and lots of web info on it. Pretty common on Series trucks.

The FJ60 pitman arm works fine with Rover tie-rod ends. As a bonus the pitman arm can be used without modification too. Some say the Toyota box isn't as strong as the Scout box but I run them on two trucks and don't have a problem. Easy to find and cheap.

http://seriestrek.com/109/chassis5.jpg

http://seriestrek.com/109/steering2.jpg

The FJ60 pitman arm works fine with Rover tie-rod ends. As a bonus the pitman arm can be used without modification too. Some say the Toyota box isn't as strong as the Scout box but I run them on two trucks and don't have a problem. Easy to find and cheap.

http://seriestrek.com/109/chassis5.jpg

http://seriestrek.com/109/steering2.jpg

Your pictures blur the line between NSFW and SFW! Rover Porn!

The FJ60 pitman arm works fine with Rover tie-rod ends. As a bonus the pitman arm can be used without modification too. Some say the Toyota box isn't as strong as the Scout box but I run them on two trucks and don't have a problem. Easy to find and cheap.



No way!

I went and checked and the toyota is 1:10 taper as well, so it does actually bolt right up safely.

I don't think I am using a Scout box again. They are cheap and easy to rebuild but are getting harder to find, and the bolts constantly stretch and get loose. I think the bolt pattern is a little small for running with big tires. Just repeating what I have read on the web, the P38 steering box is supposed to be the cat's meow. They are made by ZF and apparently super solid (plus they have a much wider footprint on the frame).

No way!

Way!

Way!

What does this have to do with Adam?