is anyone one with the 465/300 clocked running into front driveline problems? If so what size driveline did you go to? How much did you index the transfer?

The only problem I had was making the twinstick clear the trans housing. Other then that I haven't have any problems. The tube on my front driveshaft is 2 1/4" OD.

I don't know exactly how my I indexed, but you can see on my website. Click WWW button below then indexed transfer case from the menu.

Jim

Thanks Jim. It looks like from you sig my jeep is close to yours. I'm still spring under for now. I'm running the 36's also with the 350,9"s, 465/300 in a 5. What I was wondering have you had any problem hiting the starter motor with the driveshaft. Maybe someone will give some insight to this also

Originally posted by odee
Thanks Jim. It looks like from you sig my jeep is close to yours. I'm still spring under for now. I'm running the 36's also with the 350,9"s, 465/300 in a 5. What I was wondering have you had any problem hiting the starter motor with the driveshaft. Maybe someone will give some insight to this also

No, I don't have any issues with the starter, but I am running a mini hi-torque starter. Mostly to clear the headers and exhaust routing I have (Y-pipe runs forward and under the oil pan then back...)

rkcrawl, I am about to embark on a 465/300 swap into my 7 via a homemade adapter made by the previous owner. I'd like to swing the 300 up some, but the 465 hangs well below the frame as well. Can you approximate how far the bottom of the 465 is below the frame and compare it to the 300 in its stock location. In my opinion, it will be a waste of time to clock the 300 when the 465 will still be in harms way, even though that case is stout as dammit. Also, do you have a pic with the skidplate in and completed. Thanks, Sean

I have my D300 clocked, and the SM465 hangs down about 2" below the frame. The good part is that it's up near the spring hangers, and strong. I may build a little skid for it, but for the time being...

Bryan

Originally posted by SEEN
rkcrawl, I am about to embark on a 465/300 swap into my 7 via a homemade adapter made by the previous owner. I'd like to swing the 300 up some, but the 465 hangs well below the frame as well. Can you approximate how far the bottom of the 465 is below the frame and compare it to the 300 in its stock location. In my opinion, it will be a waste of time to clock the 300 when the 465 will still be in harms way, even though that case is stout as dammit. Also, do you have a pic with the skidplate in and completed. Thanks, Sean

Sean, too bad you weren't at ERoCC on the 7/8th.. you could have checked it out... I have pix on my website. Mine hangs maybe an 1.5" below, if that much. Its got a couple whack marks on it from this last ERoCC comp, other then that looks good. I may build out the SP to cover just that part, and the effort to clock the TC is worth the effort. The undercarriage of my rig is SUPER clean because of it.

See the WWW below.

I guess the only option to get a completely flat skidplate would be to raise the motor the necessary amount. I am running a 258 and the back end of the motor is pretty close to the firewall as is. When it gets buit, I may move the engine forward and up just enough to get everything tucked up between the rails, but i still need to get the 465 in before I burn that bridge. Got a pic by chance?

I wish I could have made it for the last EROCC, but I was dealing with pull rig issues and other crap. The homemade adapter consists of an aluminum plate bolted to the back of the 465 and a t-176 adapter bolted to the back of the plate. BTW, the mainshaft was removed, cut down, and resplined to fit the 300. Dennis Stacey is the one who ran it before I bought it off of him and did the work to mate the two. If I'm not mistaken, I should be able to rotate the 300 up a hole and only have five holes in use. That should get it close to being flat.........any thoughts

Well.. If you don't want ANYTHING below the frame rails then you are going to have to have the TC, trans and the engine WAY high. I have a 1" BL, I don't think I'd want to see what I had to do to get the trans completely above the frame rails... Plus you would be raising your COG quite a bit. IMO its not worth it, but indexing the TC is... I'll shoot a current pick tomorrow.

I already had to cut my floor (1" BL, too) to get the trans up high enough, now I'm dealing with shifter positions & such with such a long throw tranny.

Originally posted by Oxjockey
I already had to cut my floor (1" BL, too) to get the trans up high enough, now I'm dealing with shifter positions & such with such a long throw tranny.

WHAT??? The 465 is a way short throw trans! You should have seen the NP435 I had before. The 465 isn't a 1/3 of the throw on that sumbitch... :D

Floor cutting was necessary for the TC indexing and clearance for the twinstick.

Short throw if you cut the shifter 15"! :D I drove an NV4500, and was really impressed with the throw, but...

I didn't cut the floor for the tcase, I used a longer adapter and placed the tcase under the seat area vs the footwell. I know, I'm losing driveshaft length, but a Klune will fit in there, some day! ;)

The 300 at factory clocking does hang below all the big 4 speeds.

Usually 3" of rotation will get it a little higher than the belly of the tranny. My roatation adapter kit (The original one) gives 3 rotation choices. I've sold many for 465 applications and no one ever commented on any ds issues with that application. depends on a lot of variables though like starter size, location, lift, bumpstops, axle yoke location etc.

some adapters can be redrilled, others do not have room to do this. moving one bolt hole from stock location will be way too much and have the t-case swung way past being level (about 30 degrees up)

Good luck with your project!

I should mention that I'll be lifting my motor 1" to accomodate the front DS. It hits the BH or something, I don't remember exactly. Or will, anyways.

Bryan

Odee, I am running the 465 and 300 in my YJ. I have the Novak adapter (from 465 to 300) and a Go2Guy index ring. I only clocked it to the second position and i ran into front driveshaft problems. "My Shaft is a Woody" of the standard slip with 1350's kind. The shaft was binding up with the TC yoke because of the angle. I went with the standard front and rear, the front shaft was 36 inches long (i extended the frame and moved the 60 forward approx 6 inches) so i did not think that i would have angle problems. In the end i had to take and get the front shaft CV'ed and went down to a 1330 joint for more movement and it all work out. The rear in still standard with 1350 and everything clears great. As far as the starter goes i had no problems. I went with a high torque mini and 3.5 inch SOA set up.

Good Luck!