Okay, tossing around ideas on building a dana 44 I got for my CJ7. I plan on running 36x13.50-17 Bias Iroks.

I read this article: http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/131_0406_truck_axle_kit_dana_44/index.html

And right now my Dana 44 (scout II) will need to have the knuckles reamed out (rounded out). If I have to work on these knuckles anyway, along with bore the spindle to fit 30 spline shafts, would it be wiser to just put Dana 60 knuckles on it, 35 spline shafts, the 35 spline ARB, and never worry again? And if you ask, why not go D60, will like I said I plan on running a 36" tire and don't want that low hanging pumpkin. However if it won't cost much more $$$ for me to go with 35 spline shafts and D60 knuckles, why not.

The axle has to be re-tubed anyways with custom shafts made, so the shafts aren't the big deal either talking $$$ because it will be near the same either way.

Really what I'm trying to figure is this.....

How would I get a D60 knuckle onto a D44 housing? The housing is bigger on a D60, which would make it not fit on the D44 housing right? How does this work?

How would I be able to run a 5 5.5 bolt pattern with D60 knuckles? I figure I coulden't use anything from the scout II knuckles/hubs, so how would I do this?

Any help would be great. I want to start buying parts for this axle and get it going slowly but surely, but have to find out what parts to buy.

Okay, tossing around ideas on building a dana 44 I got for my CJ7. I plan on running 36x13.50-17 Bias Iroks.

I read this article: http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/131_0406_truck_axle_kit_dana_44/index.html

And right now my Dana 44 (scout II) will need to have the knuckles reamed out (rounded out). If I have to work on these knuckles anyway, along with bore the spindle to fit 30 spline shafts, would it be wiser to just put Dana 60 knuckles on it, 35 spline shafts, the 35 spline ARB, and never worry again? And if you ask, why not go D60, will like I said I plan on running a 36" tire and don't want that low hanging pumpkin. However if it won't cost much more $$$ for me to go with 35 spline shafts and D60 knuckles, why not.

The axle has to be re-tubed anyways with custom shafts made, so the shafts aren't the big deal either talking $$$ because it will be near the same either way.

Really what I'm trying to figure is this.....

How would I get a D60 knuckle onto a D44 housing? The housing is bigger on a D60, which would make it not fit on the D44 housing right? How does this work?

How would I be able to run a 5 5.5 bolt pattern with D60 knuckles? I figure I coulden't use anything from the scout II knuckles/hubs, so how would I do this?

Any help would be great. I want to start buying parts for this axle and get it going slowly but surely, but have to find out what parts to buy.
Since Money is not a object, I'd heavily suggest a HP Dana 60 build for you.

Didn't follow the link, but don't buy 30 spline outers for a 44. They are not worth the upgrade.
Keep searching and reading... you'll find all kind of axle build up here.

Don,t waste your time & money on a D44.:shaking: Build a D60 and be done with it.

60 and be done with it. Those 36 Iroks measure out to 37", just big enough to give your Dana 44 some trouble, but also big enough to run a Dana 60. I have a friend that runs 60s on 37s, they don't bump as bad as everybody thinks and the D60 is only has 1-1.5" less ground clearance over the bottom of the length of the bottom of the diff.

you can do a mild shave on the 60 too to give you a little more...angle griinder is all you need

Money is an issue, but as long as its costing around that same as what it would be to buld these D44's, its all good.

One other reason I didn't want to go tons is because I never need that much axle, and since I never will I don't want all the wheight.

My drivetrain is a 5.0/hughes C-4/D20. It's not like it has this big meaty powerplant. I'm pushing 220 HP if I'm lucky at the crank and 300 ft. lbs.

Guys run Dana 60s with 4 cyls.

If I could do it over again i would have done a 60. I just sold my 37" iroks and went back to 35's. I was snapping 4340 shafts in my 44. I run a 302,Np435,np205. You could run stock shafts and joints in the 60 and they will be stronger than the high dollar chromo shafts and joints in my 44. Probably come out to the same price. And lets face it who doesn't want to build their rig bigger eventually so they can climb the nastiest trails out there and hang with the comp rigs.

With all things being equal money wise IMO its dumb to waste the money on the 44 when you can get the 60. Its a better return on your investment. Even if your not running a high HP motor all that multiplied torque can wreck havoc on your u joints, axle shafts/ears etc.

36's turn into 38's. 38's turn into 40's. 40's turn into 42's. :laughing:

Money is an issue, but as long as its costing around that same as what it would be to buld these D44's, its all good.

One other reason I didn't want to go tons is because I never need that much axle, and since I never will I don't want all the wheight.

My drivetrain is a 5.0/hughes C-4/D20. It's not like it has this big meaty powerplant. I'm pushing 220 HP if I'm lucky at the crank and 300 ft. lbs.
Building a Dana 60 vs your current Dana 44 will cost $1,800+ (If you keep Dana 44 parts on the 44)
Don't get fooled into adding high dollar items into the 44, add up the cost of your high dollar items and I bet a basic Dana 60 would be about the same upgrade price.

My advice when building a 'custom' axle: stick with as many stock parts or 'stock like' as possible. Example: Don't get custom length axle shafts, find a Spicer length that will work for you even if you get aftermarked shafts. Much easier to say it a 78 Waggy inner than to try an measure a broken shaft...

Don't forget for under a $1000 you can get use aluminum heads and a few other parts to run 300+ HP

Same, my tricked out D44s had some issues with my 37 IROKs. I wasn't a throttle junkie either, I crawled when I could but sometimes things bound and go twisted from the torque of the 4:1 kit, T-18 tranny and motor. And thats not counting the time when the only trick left in the book was a little wheel speed.... I would have built 60s if I had to go back and do it all over again, I would have saved money from broken parts and cheaper 1-ton parts.

Well I'm looking to cut the axles down either way to 60" wms, which is plenty wide for my Jeep, and it would allow me to fit it into the trailer I have.

I'm just a little erie about going Dana 60's, mostly just because the same reasons I mentioned (weight, low hanging). Right now I run 34's and do a lot of hard stuff with no real problems. That’s on a D30 and M20 locked. I figure I'll never go over 37's on this Jeep, which is why I was looking at D44's. I'll probably stick around 35-37" tires on this Jeep, which I don't want to be limited to how small I can go by the low hanging diff. I already beat mine up (well the M20 anyways) with 34's.

The realistic figures I came up with would be around $3500-$4000 to build these axles all the way up (D44's). The only reason I am considering a swap is because I don't like how narrow the Narrow-trac axles are, even with 2" spacers. The other reason is because when these tires give out, or go bald (about 30% tread), I will go 36's, and that D30 is prone to go :nuke:.

thats a lot of money for an axel build up. if you want shorter D44's you could just get some waggy axels front and rear they are 30 spline. my buddy has the 36' iroks on stock waggy's with an amc 360 and he has had no problems and he can fit on a trailer no problem without hopping the wheel wells. dont know if thats the way you wanna go but its a thought.

thats a lot of money for an axel build up. if you want shorter D44's you could just get some waggy axels front and rear they are 30 spline. my buddy has the 36' iroks on stock waggy's with an amc 360 and he has had no problems and he can fit on a trailer no problem without hopping the wheel wells. dont know if thats the way you wanna go but its a thought.

I'd love to do that, but the problem is that the CJ frame is too narrow. And I don't want to cut up my bumper. So really the only way to do it is to re-tube the front. The rear D44 is bolt on (gotta weld pads though). Here's the breakdown:

Axle re-tube for the front with custom chromo shafts - $740 + $200 shipping (have to price around, thats what Currie said)
ARB's with pump $1600
Ream knuckles $200
warn internal locking hub kit $120
Warn 30 spline outer shafts $300
Custom tie-rod $300
Total $3260

And then I give it a good $700 le-way for extra costs I may run into. The damn ARB's are the most cost, if I found some excelent condition used ones for half price that would be the way to go.

I'd love to do that, but the problem is that the CJ frame is too narrow. And I don't want to cut up my bumper. So really the only way to do it is to re-tube the front. The rear D44 is bolt on (gotta weld pads though). Here's the breakdown:

Axle re-tube for the front with custom chromo shafts - $740 + $200 shipping (have to price around, thats what Currie said)
ARB's with pump $1600
Ream knuckles $200
warn internal locking hub kit $120
Warn 30 spline outer shafts $300
Custom tie-rod $300
Total $3260

And then I give it a good $700 le-way for extra costs I may run into. The damn ARB's are the most cost, if I found some excelent condition used ones for half price that would be the way to go.

For that much cash you can buy a tricked out Dana 60 ready to bold into your Jeep, or you can buy one and build it yourself for half that cost. You really don't need ARBs, really theres no reason to have them. They are a great product but you don't need them for the snow, you don't need them for the road, and you don't need them for the trail, ESPECIALLY if you have a twin sticked T-case. I'm guessing you have a Dana 300 no? Any 1 ton axle is already gonna have the knuckles reamed, have 30 spline or 35 spline shafts, warn hubs. You would only have to cut down one axle tube as well, not both if you find a junk yard 60.

Otherwise if you really want a Dana 44, buy some waggy D44s, outboard your springs (its not hard and cheap, they make kits) and just throw some cash at the Waggy D44 and enjoy the easy to find replacement parts if something breaks as opposed to custom cut shafts

For that much cash you can buy a tricked out Dana 60 ready to bold into your Jeep, or you can buy one and build it yourself for half that cost. You really don't need ARBs, really theres no reason to have them. They are a great product but you don't need them for the snow, you don't need them for the road, and you don't need them for the trail, ESPECIALLY if you have a twin sticked T-case. I'm guessing you have a Dana 300 no? Any 1 ton axle is already gonna have the knuckles reamed, have 30 spline or 35 spline shafts, warn hubs. You would only have to cut down one axle tube as well, not both if you find a junk yard 60.

Otherwise if you really want a Dana 44, buy some waggy D44s, outboard your springs (its not hard and cheap, they make kits) and just throw some cash at the Waggy D44 and enjoy the easy to find replacement parts if something breaks as opposed to custom cut shafts

I would cut up the front, but I got a lot of $$$ into the frame and the way its setup right now. And Dana 300? I wish, nope got a D20. I didn't consider a totally custom axle though, or buying a built one then having it cut. With detroits I could save myself $500-$600 bucks, putting me at $2500-$3000 or so. Let's see....... what about instead of buying those warn shafts and shit, I grab some knuckles/hubs/shafts off a Ford Brinco D44 front? It would work right? It's a 6 bolt hub isn't it? 5 5.5 pattern? I could pick that up for what, $100? That would knock off $300-$400 or so there.

I call BULLSHIT

You have Dana 44s yet you have two wanted ads for 44s.You want 60 outers but money is an object....BLAH BLAH BLAH

Which is it?Do you have theaxle as you say in this thread?OR are you looking for Dana
44s as is your wanted ads?

I call BULLSHIT

You have Dana 44s yet you have two wanted ads for 44s.You want 60 outers but money is an object....BLAH BLAH BLAH

Which is it?Do you have theaxle as you say in this thread?OR are you looking for Dana
44s as is your wanted ads?

I am looking for a front dana 44 that will bolt into a CJ7, that way I will not have to cut the scout II Dana 44 up I have in my garage. Why would I make a damn post about something that doesn't matter?

Money is an object, as I stated again and again. Only reason I was considering to use 60 outers if I ended up building the scout axles in my garage would be if it was roughly the same cost.

No, not bullshitting, I don't got that kind of time to waste. Sorry for the confusion. And if you know of anybody with a front dana 44 OR a pair of D44's that will bolt into a CJ7, let me know, that way I don't have to sink cash into the scout axles.

I would cut up the front, but I got a lot of $$$ into the frame and the way its setup right now. And Dana 300? I wish, nope got a D20. I didn't consider a totally custom axle though, or buying a built one then having it cut. With detroits I could save myself $500-$600 bucks, putting me at $2500-$3000 or so. Let's see....... what about instead of buying those warn shafts and shit, I grab some knuckles/hubs/shafts off a Ford Brinco D44 front? It would work right? It's a 6 bolt hub isn't it? 5 5.5 pattern? I could pick that up for what, $100? That would knock off $300-$400 or so there.

What is so special about your frame? If its steel you just buy/make a full width kit, I like the one BTF sells (here it is btw http://bluetorchfab.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=101 ) and you put in whatever axle your heart desires or you wallet can afford. If you go 1ton you don't need Alloy shafts for 37s and you don't need billet/super u-joints either. If you go D44 yes you can pillage parts from a ford and get the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern. A stock waggy is 6 hub, and mine came with flat top knuckles stock so they were ready to be milled for hi-steer arms which come with 1-ton reams already. You can pick up a front waggy 44 for 200 bucks or so, the other ford parts aren't expensive either. I'm telling you from experience however your 37s are pushing the envelope for a D44. I would call it the equivalent of running 33s on a Dana 35, you could be ok if you wheel with your head just as easly as you can blow shit up on a regular basis or just by accident.

Also do you have a welder? I'm not understanding why you need a set that is "Bolt in" You are gonna pay through the nose for them, as opposed to buying a set, cutting the perches off and welding in the new ones.


**edit**
I just did some searching for you and unless you want to pay extra cash to have an axle built specifically for a CJ your best bet it to buy a generic axle (Comes with gears, locker, shafts) and add your own spindles, hub, spring perches and shock tabs. You are talking about 1000-1500 dollars more just to have somebody weld perches on (that might not work) and install your hubs. You can check out 4wd hardware. They sell Solid, Dynatrac, and Mil Surplus D44s and D60s already built in the 2000-4000 dollar range depending on make, size and front/rear.

Well I'm looking to cut the axles down either way to 60" wms, which is plenty wide for my Jeep, and it would allow me to fit it into the trailer I have.



I'd suggest leaving the axles at about 63" - 64" wide. That's what I did and I'm
VERY glad I did. It adds so much more stability as to be almost unbelievable.
I have a full width Waggy D44 front with 8 lug hubs which measures out at
63.5" wms-wms and a Ford D61 rear that's 65" wms-wms. It fits just fine
between the fenders of my car hauler trailer with 36" IROKS.

BTW, the D44 has 4340 shafts and Longfield Super U-Joints and I've yet to
break anything in it, even pounding it on the Hammer Trails at Johnson Valley.

Heres some links for you to check out.

Rockjock D60 housing (built to spec)
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/builderRJ60F.aspx?id=2756&p=1299.95

Solid D60 housing w/ kingpin knucles (built to spec)
http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=20&idproduct=62

Solid D44 housing (built to spec) A whopping 200 dollars cheaper! /sarcasm
http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=20&idproduct=63

Solid Dana 44 Full axle assembly
http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=18&idproduct=81

Solid Dana 60 Full axle assembly w/ kingpin
http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=18&idproduct=78

Keep in mind now that certain parts like lockers are usually cheaper for 1-ton axles. I find that junkyard parts for them in the form or hubs, axle shafts, spindles etc etc are cheaper as well. This is just a quick search too, you can find more builders etc, Ebay may have some deals for you. Craigslist isn't bad either.

Didn't consider an already built housing. I want to keep under $4000 for the whole set, front and rear. I got $800 into the scouters, if I had the front cut to work, I would have roughly $1800 in the set. I do have a welder, and weld good enough to do pads, so I can save cost there. I would love to go some built Dana 60's, but am still worried about cost, and the fact it may be too much axle for my drivetrain (main weakpoint is the D20).

I haven't broke once yet with the 34's on the D30/M20, I rarely go lead foot, and never do with the tires turned. I see where your saying that 37's will be like running 33's on a D35. I'll have to work it out, do some more re-search on thosebuilt to spec assemblys, and find out what I want to do. Working on a fairly small budget here, and don't want to dump a whole lot of $$$ (more than 4k) into axles because after my 34's either pop, or go bald, I'm another few grand with tires/suspension.

Thanks a ton for the help. Just gotta crunch some numbers and find out whats what.

I am going to build the scout axles. Another question however which I don't see the point in making a new thread for:

The axles when complete will be; Front: Superior inners/warn 30 spline outers, warn premium hubs, 4:88 R/P, ARB; Rear: 30 (maybe 35) spline chromos, 4:88, ARB. Sounds pretty strong? I plan on running either 36x13.50 IROKS, 37x13.50 Krawlers, or 37x13" Boggers. The Boggers are the biggest in weight. Any of these choices going to be to much tire for my setup? I don't think so, but need opinions/experiences.

Scout axles have thin tubes compared to a chevy. The knuckles also have the wrong geometry for jeep pitman arms (too fawkin long). Chevy axles have .5" thick tubes. It is alot cheaper to narrow an axle than it is to retube.

You would be aroud 63" if you narrowed the chevy drivers side to match the scout & run all stock stuff. To each his own.

I heard scout had the thickest tubes/strongest Dana 44? And I want around 58-60". Knuckles are $100 for some flat tops of CG, so thats not a big deal.

You heard wrong in regard to the Scout 44. Every one that I've seen has 2-5/8" diameter tubes and are pretty thin walled. This goes for front and rear Scout tubes.

Jeep and Chevy 44's will have at least a 2.75" diameter tube with at least a 3/8" thick wall. Many have 1/2" thick walls and are 3" in diameter.

I just messured it and it is 2 3/4" Diameter, 8 11/16" circumference.