I have a 79 chevy recently swapped in a 14 bolt and a 10 bolt after installing these axles I have no pedal I have bled the shit out of the brakes they pump up then go to the floor when bleeding like they should then after you let them sit for a couple seconds right back to the floor they go. This only started after changing the brake linesto steel braided and swapping the axles. Is there any chance that the master cylinder took a shit or does this even sound like a master cylinder problem. Also do you have to do anything special to the calipers after you took em off.

If the mastercylinder is leaking out of the back by the booster you will have the same problem. The 14 bolt could have a leaky wheel cylinder too.

not losing any fluid resivor height is the same and no drips

then you must suck at bleeding.

you sure you adjusted the rear brake shoes... those damn things are so big i remember only having half a pedal and the rear drums only being a bit off. try that.. if you think you adjusted them make sure you didnt just adjust them to the lip on the drum.

Definitely adjusted them all the way as far as i could and still turn the wheels

then you must suck at bleeding.

Youre a fawkin idiot i mean its not goin down when i am not bleeding them. Why dont you say something productive or shut your fawkin mouth.

how can i be the idiot, my brakes work great!!!!!!

did you reset the prop valve?

do you have lots or flow at the rears?

did you run the master dry and suck in a shit ton of air?

did you actualy look the wheel cyclnders to see if they are leaking or not? not just look at the bottom of the drum expecting to see a drip.

I have the same problem when I bleed my brakes. I don't know why but there is something with these trucks that suck when it comes to bleeding. I shit you not it takes about 15-20 minutes.

Did you take the drums off the 14bolt and check the pads, hardware, seals and wheel cylinders?

im willing to bet a bunch of crap went through the MC when he was bleeding it and opened up the tolerances around the piston. that means he can bleed em all he wants and never have a pedal...

dumb question but did you bleed them properly? (ie start at the brake farthest away from the brake pedal and work your way up?)

are all of your connections tight?

are your brake lines bad? (do they buldge when you press the brake?)

is there a possibility that there is something in your brake lines that may be blocking it? (like a piece of metal or plastic or something that could cause a blockage when you swaped brake lines).

are the brake lines big enough

is there fluid around the power brake booster? (i had a good brake fluid level in my resivior but had signs of fluid all over my booster and had no brake pedal. if there is fluid on your brake booster, its bad and needs to be replace)

these are just a few things that come to mind that i would start checking.


it took me and my dad almost 45 minutes to bleed the brakes in his suburban

it took me and my dad almost 45 minutes to bleed the brakes in his suburban

just did all mine today and took about that long. had a few leaks here and there due to running new lines and not tightening some of them. i just busted open the rears and let them go for like 35 minutes. seems to have pedal. but cant start the truck yet

Definitely adjusted them all the way as far as i could and still turn the wheels

Turn with or without drag on them? If theres no drag, theres too much slack.

Alex.