Hey guys I was about to get the Trail Tough "Double Tough" front axles but then realized that with a need to change axle gear ratios, locker installation, and axle assembly rebuilds on the to do list, it would be cheaper to just buy all new axle assemblies! So now I'm thinking of getting either the Sidewinders or the Big Suzanas but the Big Suzanas are less expensive. I'm leaning towards the latter but I need to know how well they perform. I'm interested in the front "Big" Suzana ( not the "Little" Suzana ) and the rear semi-floating Big Suzana assembly.

I'm planning on running a 33"x12.5"R15 Swamper SSR with air lockers and extreme driving. I will NOT be a finesse style 4wheeler, at least not at this point in my 4wheeling career. Will these axle assemblies/shafts/joints/ etc. hold up to this kind of abuse? I don't want to break anything because I don't want to have to spend any more money on replacing broken parts. Has anyone run these assemblies here? I'd preferably like to hear from someone who doesn't work for Trail Tough. Thanks guys!

i don't run the axles but i've seen brents rig in action at the zukimelt.....he's running the big suzanna's front and rear.....there's not much more abuse you could put a front axle through than to run it in the rear of the truck......he thrashed the thing pretty hard on troy's trail and the only breakage was a steering ram and tweaked control arm....

I've never heard a bad thing about brent's stuff, both here on the board and with people I meet.

For the same amount you could do a D44 or an Allpro hybrid and have the big axle ALL the way to the side gears. Both the TT an Spidertrax units look well made, but the both taper down at the side gears to zuk splines, which is your new weak link. For less you could do toy axles and longfields and stronger the either of those gucci combos.

Originally posted by scwafish
For the same amount you could do a D44 or an Allpro hybrid and have the big axle ALL the way to the side gears. Both the TT an Spidertrax units look well made, but the both taper down at the side gears to zuk splines, which is your new weak link. For less you could do toy axles and longfields and stronger the either of those gucci combos.

What he said:D



But my choice is the sidwinders.........They look more go fast:flipoff2:

Ya know, quite a while back while I was in Argentina I had a pretty good discussion with Mike Shaffer over Axles and Custom products. And after some serious thought I agree. His comments revolved around availibility and value. Toy axles are readily available and very cheap in most junkyards. You can take a toy axle, shorten the rear 3 inches and have an offset Axle and housing. You can also pull a few axles and have then shortened and resplined and you have spare axles for almost nothing. Front axle, no need to shorten it. I don't remember what years he used for reference but I'm sure someone on here can point you in the right direction.
As for aftermarket custom stuff, it's not likely that Trail Tough or SpiderTrax will be out of business anytime soon but you have to raise the question of "what if?" Custom stuff is great if it you can get it at a moments notice, but it usually isn't available at that moment. You can't just go down to the local pick and pull and find the axle you will need for those custom Axles. Go with the Toy's, I'm sure you won't regret it. Just my .02 but it makes perfect sense to me. (thanks Mike!!)

I can understand it for those who don't want to screw with rebuilding the axle and going through all the trouble. In addition, when you get up to 60's and whatnot, the issue becomes more about clearance and weight. People build things to fill needs of the marketplace. If no one buys em, they won't make em anymore.

Originally posted by schuss
I can understand it for those who don't want to screw with rebuilding the axle and going through all the trouble. In addition, when you get up to 60's and whatnot, the issue becomes more about clearance and weight. People build things to fill needs of the marketplace. If no one buys em, they won't make em anymore.

Who puts 60's under samurai's?:confused: What I don't understand is people paying that amount of coin for 26 splines:eek: :eek:

the only parts you cannot buy off the shelf for the TT axle is the axle shafts and spindle adapters....everything else is standard...it uses all the stock sammi brake components and hub stuff......i think the spidertrax axles are the same

Originally posted by Bill4rest


Who puts 60's under samurai's?:confused: What I don't understand is people paying that amount of coin for 26 splines:eek: :eek:

I'm referring to the jeep crowd on that one. I'm gonna be happy once I get my toy axles cleaned up and under my zuk.

Originally posted by NC Zuk
Toy axles are readily available and very cheap in most junkyards. You can take a toy axle, shorten the rear 3 inches and have an offset Axle and housing.

the samurai off set is 5 " still short 2



:massey:

Originally posted by moto261


the samurai off set is 5 " still short 2


Is'nt a 2" compound angle better than a 5"? :confused:

Originally posted by moto261
the samurai off set is 5 " still short 2 :massey:

Ok, as I said, quite a while back, while in Argentina, I had this discussion. Maybe he said it was five inches. Beats the fawk out of me. :confused: That was a few hundred beers and two countries ago. I am probably wrong, but like Bill said, wouldn't a 2" angle be better that one? Maybe Mike will read this and set me straight, that would be best anyway.

its ok if you dont have much lift on your rig to run the toy stuff just buy some toyota stuff and put it in there it will be just fine i built a rig and took it to SOR and it did just fine other then the stock suk springs they got all kinked so you best bang for you buck just go with the toy stuff but if your like most people (not saying you are) and they think that having a huge samurai is the cool thing then it probley wont work out fo you unless you shorten the passenger side


:massey:

Justr to clarify a little. The Tacoma rears are the ones you can cut down and have them match the width of the older mini truck front axles. The Taco's rears are wider than the mini truck rears.

Works good for me. :D

Im installing a set of Sidewinder axles this week. Front view (http://www.tmtoolman.com/images/redzuk06.JPG)
The planes are to test them out in Tellico around Sept 26 - 28
Rear view (http://www.tmtoolman.com/images/redzuk02.JPG)

I'll let yawl know how they work when I get back. :flipoff2:

BTW, Jake from Canyon Crawlers and TTC runs 60's front and rear on his zuki:D

Originally posted by Shrock
Justr to clarify a little. The Tacoma rears are the ones you can cut down and have them match the width of the older mini truck front axles. The Taco's rears are wider than the mini truck rears.

Works good for me. :D

what you talkin' bout willis? my ifs rearend lines up damn nice with the zuk tcase. it was cut 3.5" and matches the front axle. the tacoma axle is cool but it uses the 8.2 diff... so it's not interchangable with the front axle. also locker options are limited. or at least they were... not sure now.

This has bugged me for awhile now.......why are the Trail Tough and the SpiderTrax axles build around a TRACKER/KICK 3rd member??:eek: :confused:

why not save the hassle and improve the gear/locker selections and goto the 8" Toy chunk? Now that would be the HOT setup I think....No more Birfs up front!!

though for the $$$, the stock rear toy axle would do just as well in most cases. (unless you want a floater like I do)

I probably missed something as to why the tracker/Kick was used.
Can Brent or the SpiderTrax guys comment on this?:D

Not saying these axles are 'BAD', just was wondering..:D

Originally posted by Orionn
This has bugged me for awhile now.......why are the Trail Tough and the SpiderTrax axles build around a TRACKER/KICK 3rd member??:eek: :confused:

why not save the hassle and improve the gear/locker selections and goto the 8" Toy chunk? Now that would be the HOT setup I think....No more Birfs up front!!

though for the $$$, the stock rear toy axle would do just as well in most cases. (unless you want a floater like I do)

I probably missed something as to why the tracker/Kick was used.
Can Brent or the SpiderTrax guys comment on this?:D

Not saying these axles are 'BAD', just was wondering..:D


check out allpro they make one just like it i think with 44 or 60 outers. The only problem with the kick stuff it the neckdown and the fact that there still are not 30 spline


:massey:

check out allpro they make one just like it i think with 44 or 60 outers. The only problem with the kick stuff it the neckdown and the fact that there still are not 30 spline

I will check them out.......I agree with the neckdown on the axles being the weak spot, but having 30 splines over 28? I dont belive this is much of an issue with axles under a Samurai. One of the great things about these things is they are so LIGHT so they dont require the beef that the heavier trucks do.
I am sure that there will be exceptions, there always are, but for a large portion of the Sammies that are off-road, it's just not nessary.


Not trying to ruffle anyones feathers, just an observation thats all.
:D

for a newbie he makes good sense. :flipoff2:

also......4.62 and 5.12 are pretty good ratio's to come out of stock set ups and can be acquired for a really good price out of a junk yard

Originally posted by Orionn


I will check them out.......I agree with the neckdown on the axles being the weak spot, but having 30 splines over 28? I dont belive this is much of an issue with axles under a Samurai. One of the great things about these things is they are so LIGHT so they dont require the beef that the heavier trucks do.
I am sure that there will be exceptions, there always are, but for a large portion of the Sammies that are off-road, it's just not nessary.


Not trying to ruffle anyones feathers, just an observation thats all.
:D

Well contrary to popular belief, the 1.3 engine (with gear reduction) has plenty of oomph to twist a 26 spline axle. Everybody has seen it. The debate is if there enough force to twist a 26 spline in the front?

Of coarse I'm talking with 33's and dry rock:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Bill4rest


Who puts 60's under samurai's?:confused: What I don't understand is people paying that amount of coin for 26 splines:eek: :eek:

Hey now...I just put a Tera 60 in the rear of my sami:flipoff2:

Don't waist your time or mony with any 26 spline axles! If you wheel hard you will brake them...I was braking 30 spline cromo axles.. just spend your mony once and put dana 44s in it or go chaep and run toyota axles but don't waist it on 26spline junk!:D

brent was havin problem with sherin the bolts off i have'nt heard of any one breaking toy axels rarely birfields on a samurai


? what is the differance betweeen toy pickup 4runner and land cruiser axles i know land cruzers are off set i heard they will line up almost perfectly with a samuri

Lots of good info on this subject here -> http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=15511:D

First off, the reason we use the Sidekick center section is so that we can use a special side gear which is actually the Dana30 27 spline which is quite a bit larger than the Samurai 26 spline side gear. The ring and pinions are sufficient and have had a ZERO failure rate and provide good ground clearance. Secondly, the Dana44 knuckles with 297-X ujoints will steer much sharper than any Toyota birfield axle and there is no need to buy a new set of 6 lug wheels. No axle on any of the Big Suzana's we have built and sold have ever broken to date. We did, however, scatter a 297-X ujoint on the rear of the Crustacean when the rear dual wheel assembly hit the floor 2nd gear full throttle after slipping off the ledge of "Double Whammy". We reinstalled a new u joint and we are still running the same axle shafts. On Troy's Trail in Attica Indiana, we watched a Samurai with 42" tires snap a 300 series ujoint in his Dana 60 front end in a wedge that we walked right through! The way I got it figured is the heavier you build, the heavier you HAVE to build - and you can still break it! So we created an axle that uses 27 spline inner shafts, weighs less than a Toyota axle, turns sharper than a Toyota axle, has stronger ujoints than a Toyota axle, for a fairly reasonable cost considering that it comes with Hy-steer and gears. So while you think your Toyota axles are pretty cheap, better start adding up 2 sets of R&P's in the 5:1 zone, installation kits, a Hysteer kit, a set of 6 lug wheels, LockRights for Toyotas have a pretty poor track record, so you better step that up. Ever price the set up kit and gear set for a Tacoma? Sorry, but you are way over budget! So now lets think about narrowing that puppy.

o and by the way brent diden't say anything about buying longfeilds there like over $200 bucks add it up. If you want to do it right you need to research and find out what you want. I dont think going toyata stuff is a good idea if you want to re-gear them is the way to go then like lots of you would like to do is take 1.5-3 inches off the passenger side that costs cash $$ just a hole lot of waisted money to me jsut a thought



:massey:

My Toy axles have Lockrites in them, them seem to work well with the weight of the rig, tire size, motor, and the gearing at the time.
A good set of axles is money well spent.:)

Originally posted by moto261
o and by the way brent diden't say anything about buying longfeilds there like over $200 bucks add it up. If you want to do it right you need to research and find out what you want. I dont think going toyata stuff is a good idea if you want to re-gear them is the way to go then like lots of you would like to do is take 1.5-3 inches off the passenger side that costs cash $$ just a hole lot of waisted money to me jsut a thought



:massey:

Did you bend the tube for DSI's Titantic? I mean rowboat...

and another thing lots of you allreddy run suzuki stuff so you get to reuse your lockers that also kinda cool :bounce2:


:massey:

Originally posted by MIKE S


Hey now...I just put a Tera 60 in the rear of my sami:flipoff2:


:eek: :eek:


Oh and mike you have a buggy:flipoff2:

Originally posted by moto261
and another thing lots of you allreddy run suzuki stuff so you get to reuse your lockers that also kinda cool :bounce2:


:massey:


sami lockers...JUNK!:flipoff2:

Originally posted by MIKE S



sami lockers...JUNK!:flipoff2:

So Mike...ah...... do you prefer Kayline or bestop?:flipoff2:

OK I just need y'all to know that I have no fabrication tools. No welder, CNC machine, plasma cutter, steel forge, mill, lathe, or who knows what else goes into a fancy machine shop.

I called up Trail Tough the other day and here's what I get with the Big Suzana axles:

Front Big Suzana:
ARB Air Locker INSTALLED
4.62 or 5.12 third member INCLUDED and INSTALLED
Stock, 2", or 4" track width
Hy Steer setup
Disc brakes and calipers( already own )
$2250

Rear Big Suzana:
ARB Air Locker INSTALLED
4.62 or 5.12 third member INCLUDED and INSTALLED
Stock, 2", or 4" track width
Disc brakes and calipers
$1850

ARB Air Compressor
$200

Total = $4300

Now if I got a pair of Toyota axles off a 4runner or truck, had them tricked out just like these Big Suzanas, and had a shop cut and weld everything up for me, would I still fall within my $5000 operating budget? If not, there's no way that I can go with Toyota axles. Just thought I'd give you a heads up with my situation. I'm also only going to run the stock motor. Rebuilt of course, but stock nonetheless.

Thanks for the help guys! :)

is that rear a full floater or does it use the standard sammi axles like the hybrid axle does?

No the rear is a semi float but I think it uses Ford 9 inch 28 spline axle shafts? Gosh I wished I remembered but I'd feel stupid if I asked the same guy the same question twice. I'll call again in a little while and double check.

Originally posted by nozuk
? what is the differance betweeen toy pickup 4runner and land cruiser axles i know land cruzers are off set i heard they will line up almost perfectly with a samuri

A Landcruiser axle is a c-clip rear end, which is bad news if you break an axle. It is also huge, not recommended for tires under 35"(kinda like our version of the 14-bolt). The lowest gears that will go in them are 5.29s and you have to grind the ring gear to do that. They also have 2 wheel cylinders per side and are somewhat expensive if they have to be replaced.

All that being said, I put one in mine and have not had a lick of trouble out of it. I took a mini truck axle out to put it in and the 'cruiser axle does drag quite a bit more.

Buddy,

If you want ARB's, I'd say that sounds like a pretty good deal. You could probably save $500-600 on the front with a Toy axle and Lockrite's assuming you pay someone to install the locker and gears.

You could get 6:1 tcase gears, keep the stock 4.30's and save a lot of bucks on the axle gears.

Do you have or plan to get power steering? The ARB will make life a lot easier w/o it, but you may end up wanting it either way eventually though....I know I do.

The rear would be tough if not impossible to beat on an offset Taco rear with disks even with a lockrite. Seems like a pretty sweet deal. You need to figure in a parking brake if you want one and possibly a new master cylinder with the rear disks though...I'm sure Brent knows what needs to be done here.

Just some stuff to mull over.

Jim

Total = $4300

I've slightly less than in my axles, but the inners are way bigger...

Front

Allpro D44 hybrid with inner axles $1000
Custom cast Parts Mike knuckles with billet high steer $600
Used Chevy outers $50
Warn Hubs $70
Used FJ 80 hipiion $50
Detroit, gears, bearings, install $750
New calipers $60
Rotors turned $40
Bearings $40

Around $2660 for the Gucci front

Rear

Used 88 IFS rear $150
Detroit, gears, bearings, install $750
New bearings $150
New shoes and cylinders $100

Around 1150 for the rear

Just over $3810 for both...spend the rest on 6 lug wheels!

As you can all tell I hate to see people spend money on week suck axles......but if you are going to run 33s at the most 35s AND KEEP THE RIG LIGHT! Trail Toughs rear axle would work great for hard trail use ...but if in 5 years you need a side gear and trail tough is no longer then what? Yes, you could have one made but its going to be spendy ......As far as the front goes I don't think I would waist the time on 26 spline iners can you say stock Jeep. Get him to put 28 spline iners with CTMs and you will have something now the weak link would be the hub studs or the hub easy trail fix..

But most of all the price is right on his axles:D

Originally posted by Buddyman
OK I just need y'all to know that I have no fabrication tools. No welder, CNC machine, plasma cutter, steel forge, mill, lathe, or who knows what else goes into a fancy machine shop.

I called up Trail Tough the other day and here's what I get with the Big Suzana axles:

Front Big Suzana:
ARB Air Locker INSTALLED
4.62 or 5.12 third member INCLUDED and INSTALLED
Stock, 2", or 4" track width
Hy Steer setup
Disc brakes and calipers( already own )
$2250

Rear Big Suzana:
ARB Air Locker INSTALLED
4.62 or 5.12 third member INCLUDED and INSTALLED
Stock, 2", or 4" track width
Disc brakes and calipers
$1850

ARB Air Compressor
$200

Total = $4300

Now if I got a pair of Toyota axles off a 4runner or truck, had them tricked out just like these Big Suzanas, and had a shop cut and weld everything up for me, would I still fall within my $5000 operating budget? If not, there's no way that I can go with Toyota axles. Just thought I'd give you a heads up with my situation. I'm also only going to run the stock motor. Rebuilt of course, but stock nonetheless.

Thanks for the help guys! :)

You should be able to. Here's what I paid:

Front axles from an 85 Toyota - $250
ARB - $575
5.29 R&P - $180
R&P Install Kit - $125
Rear axle from an 85 Toyota - $250
Spool - $200
5.29 R&P - $180
R&P Install Kit - $125
Diff Guards - $17 (8" Weld on Pipe Cap)
Hy-steer Steering Arms/Pitman Arm/Tie Rod/Drag Link - $550
Misc bearings and oil seals - $60
Rotors/Brake Pads - $75
Brake Lines + Tools - $40
6 Lug Toyota Wheels w/ 3" backspacing - $281
Install of Gears & Lockers $299
Longer U-Bolts for Front $44

Total : $3251 . Brakes are better IMO, you get 30 spline axle shafts and I have a true hy-steer setup, I believe what you are getting is a crossover steering setup with the tie rod still below the springs (I could be wrong). My prices include wheels, I think yours should too since somewhere along the way you upgraded to 2" backspaced rims (or should have). Also, depending on what gearing you want, the stock toys come with 4.10's, so you may be able to subtract all the R&P costs out if thats all you were going to need. A 6:1 with the stock 5 spd and 4.10s gets you 91:1, not bad and would save you about $610.

Just a few things to make clear here! The inner axles are 27 SPLINE - READ....TWENTY SEVEN! With Dana 30 side couplers which are an off-the-shelf ARB part. I have said this way too many times. These are Warn Chrome Moly axles and have been proven to be stronger than the 297 u-joint - which is stronger than a Toyota birfield and it turns sharper. Want CTM's? No problem - just add $300.00. 2" back spaced wheels are not necessary because the axles can be purchased stock, 2" or 4" wider than stock at no extra charge. As for the steering - it
IS HY-STEER with BOTH rods above the springs. It can be used with Toyota steering box or Sidekick steering box. And when it is all said and done these axles weigh LESS than and have better ground clearance than Toyota axles.

Originally posted by Trail Tough
Just a few things to make clear here! The inner axles are 27 SPLINE - READ....TWENTY SEVEN! With Dana 30 side couplers which are an off-the-shelf ARB part. I have said this way too many times. These are Warn Chrome Moly axles and have been proven to be stronger than the 297 u-joint - which is stronger than a Toyota birfield and it turns sharper. Want CTM's? No problem - just add $300.00. 2" back spaced wheels are not necessary because the axles can be purchased stock, 2" or 4" wider than stock at no extra charge. As for the steering - it
IS HY-STEER with BOTH rods above the springs. It can be used with Toyota steering box or Sidekick steering box. And when it is all said and done these axles weigh LESS than and have better ground clearance than Toyota axles.


So you can run the stock 15x5.5" wagon wheels? Cmon, you gotta get bigger wheels if your actually gonna wheel your Zuk. 15x8 w/3.75" BS or whatever to get some real tires on there. Either way, 4" over stock won't cut it down here so just keep in mind where I am coming from. I know Rob (MR 6.1) runs toy axles, 2" backspaced rims AND wheelspacers. Wider is better in the rocks up to a point. As far as axle strength, guys who run the Super birfs ($115 + core ea) are breaking detroits, ring & pinions and 30 spline inner and outers. I have seen Sidekick gears broken with stock Zuk axles, I'll leave it at that. That's cool on the steering, I questioned it because my old invoice for the Zuk crossover steering I bought from you also said Hy-steer. As far as weight, I'd rather have more weight down low, drops your CG so that's not a real big plus to me. Ground clearance however, is a big plus, any idea how much more than a Toy axle (unshaved)?

Chris V. The difference in size of the diff on a sidekick center vs a Toy is 1/2 inch, or a 1/4" ground clearance, but your ability to run a 36 inch tire makes up for that instantly.
Personally I have seen at least 3 Samurai's with dana 44's break 30 spline chromoly inners. A 30 spline Dana is not a 30 Spline Toyota, about a 1/4" difference in size. The big factor of breakage I see in suzuki axles is the lack of spline contact with the side gears. I broke both rear axles this weekend on the Con, same failure on each. I run Longfields up front, I trashed my Loc-Right, disengrated the locker completely.

I'm going Dana 44's, 33 spline, Arb front, Spooled Floater rear. Reason is, we build a lot of parts for these as well as Toyota axles, but I build Toyota axles everyday, Dana's I want to play with some more. I will have less than $3000 into these axles, set up 2 inch's over all wider than sami axles.

Oh, and they will be shaved, with better clearance than my kick diff's, plus 36 inch tire clearance....

So in reality, I see 3 things to look for when choosing axles. Your ability to fabricate, Your ability of finding parts, and what your doing with them or needs. Tom J. on the list here scored dana 44's for his zuk for a great deal, becuase he found a guy who was going to 60's and these puny dana 44's were taking up space in his garage.

Another fator, given time, you can break anything. Regular maintainance and knowing what your weak link is can deter that. Know your weak links and avoid situations that cause them to fail.

Originally posted by SkyMfg
A 30 spline Dana is not a 30 Spline Toyota, about a 1/4" difference in size. .....

??????? 1/4" where ????????
My buddy runs Dana 44 axes in his toy 3rd hybrid axle.... Drop in!
The only true diff is spline angle (Dana 60 deg vs Toy 90 deg).

Warn 27 spline shafts may be compariable to factory 30 spline shafts. Time will tell. With full circle clips and 760 joints, I'll put my bet on the 27 spline being the weak point. Should work great on the front of a light rig, but on the rear... Hummm....

I know a guy getting a truck built in CO with hybrid Suz/D44 axles. We get them back down here at Disney on some TRACTION and we'll find out how they fair.. :)

Originally posted by SkyMfg
Chris V. The difference in size of the diff on a sidekick center vs a Toy is 1/2 inch, or a 1/4" ground clearance, but your ability to run a 36 inch tire makes up for that instantly.


Nice to see actual numbers. So a shaved Toy diff puts you in the same ballpark or better assuming you have the tools to do it yourself.

Hey thanks for the help so far guys.

OK I've checked around for D44's from custom axle builders. They all want $8000 fully loaded for front and rear axles. And I buy the argument that lighter is better, anyway.

I know that Toy truck axles are strong with 30 spline and 1.3" shafts, but I'm worried that the centered rear will hurt driveline reliability. I don't want to spend extra money on a new centered/offset tcase. I could haul them into a shop to get the rear offset, but that would cost extra for labor. I think I'll get my stock tcase to go with 6:1's.

How about Land Cruiser axles like that one guy has a few posts back? I've downloaded ARB's spec sheet for axles on their air locker application guide and found that LC axles are as strong as the toy truck's and the rear axle from a '76 or later LC is a full floater! The axles are offset so they'll line up better if not perfectly with the stock Samurai tcase too! That'll result in better driveline reliability right?

Is it reasonable to expect some LC axles to be lying around at the salvage yard? I've only been to two junkyards in my area and haven't found any yet. How heavy are the LC vs. Toyota truck vs. Big Suzana axles? Thanks!

Originally posted by Buddyman
Hey thanks for the help so far guys.

How about Land Cruiser axles like that one guy has a few posts back? I've downloaded ARB's spec sheet for axles on their air locker application guide and found that LC axles are as strong as the toy truck's and the rear axle from a '76 or later LC is a full floater! The axles are offset so they'll line up better if not perfectly with the stock Samurai tcase too! That'll result in better driveline reliability right?

Is it reasonable to expect some LC axles to be lying around at the salvage yard? I've only been to two junkyards in my area and haven't found any yet. How heavy are the LC vs. Toyota truck vs. Big Suzana axles? Thanks!

I forgot to add the cost of a CV driveline into my numbers. Even though it shouldn't work it does. I have had my Toy axles in for almost a year and I haven't had any issues with the driveline due to the compound angle, but I also only drive it on the weekends. I have no vibes at 65mph. FK has run his this way longer and I believe drives it on the road more than I do, as far as I know he's never had any problems either. I think the LC axles have a bigger pumkin which means less ground clearance, try doing a search. I think there is a thread that talked about this as well as the weight of the LC axles.

to learn more about lc axles got cruzer board and read any axle prob cuz i'm thinking the same thing lc axles are heavy but that lowers your center of gravity but i know where there are some in my neck of the woods:p

Originally posted by Buddyman
How about Land Cruiser axles like that one guy has a few posts back? I've downloaded ARB's spec sheet for axles on their air locker application guide and found that LC axles are as strong as the toy truck's

Yes, the LC axles after 1969 have 30-spline shafts like Toy mini-trucks, and they have 9.5" ring gear, so that is stronger. You could run a LandCruiser rear axle to get the offset passenger side diff that you want.

Originally posted by Buddyman
and the rear axle from a '76 or later LC is a full floater!

I am pretty sure that is is NOT correct. No LC's came to the US with full-floater rear axles. But LC suppliers like JT Outfitters or Downey or Spectre import the full floaters. It SEEMS like I saw them advertized for less than $1000 a while back. You can check out their websites or call them.

Originally posted by Buddyman
Is it reasonable to expect some LC axles to be lying around at the salvage yard? I've only been to two junkyards in my area and haven't found any yet.

You probably WON'T find any LC's in junkyards - they are not common enough for that. But you should not have problems finding axles if you look on the web, and they are not too expensive. In fact, I have a rear axle right now for $100 if you're interested - factory 4.11 gears, probably needs rebuild (you are planning to re-gear anyway), and needs rear brakes (I'm assuming you are going to go rear disc). I'm near Burlington, NC.

Later!
Richard

Actually I can see how the CV driveshaft would make an offset tcase and centered rear axle work. The driveshaft itself would be oriented in the same way that it would be if the tcase were centered. And both flanges are turning, which would resemble the same situtaion.

Hey great I don't have to get it offset!!!! :D :D :D :D

Anybody want to warn me if I get the Toy truck/4Runner axles and just swap them in without the shop offsetting the centersection?

Hey carman, what's the track width of an LC rear axle assembly compared to the front one from a toy truck/4Runner? Since I'm here in VA, I could drive down and pick it up next time I visit my folks. Since you claim that LC axles are rare in junkyards, I'll probably go with the truck/4runner front offset axle.

Originally posted by Buddyman
Hey carman, what's the track width of an LC rear axle assembly compared to the front one from a toy truck/4Runner? Since I'm here in VA, I could drive down and pick it up next time I visit my folks. Since you claim that LC axles are rare in junkyards, I'll probably go with the truck/4runner front offset axle.

I have not measured my axle myself, but I was told that it is 55" WMS-WMS, and I think a Toy mini truck front is 56". I can get a definite measurement of the LC axle though if no one on here knows for sure. I bet someone on the LandCruiser board knows for sure. :D

I agree with you - if you don't need the rear offset, I would go with the Toy mini truck/4Runner axles. They are more common than LC axles, aftermarket parts are cheaper and more parts are available (like gearsets), and they are lighter and have more ground clearance than the LC axles.

If you do end up wanting a LC rear axle, definitely let me know! Oh yeah, I have a whole other disassembled LC rear axle that I would include for the $100 price if you come pick them up (so there's your spare axle shafts).

Later!
Richard