I'm using poly bushing inside tube style mounts for the t-case with the new 3/16 frame. With grade 8 bolts, should I go for the 3/8 or 1/2 bolt size bushings. I think the tube size is 1.5in and 1.75in.

Thanks

I say 1/2".

But it really doesn't matter cause you'll end up doing whatever the hell you want to do, and then tell us that we're all idiots, anyway.:flipoff2:

Buy the bushing that costs less and use whatever size bolt it requires, it they're the same price, get the 1/2", more likely to find a longish 1/2" than a 3/8" if you need one and don't find yourself near a decent hardware store.

I say 1/2".

But it really doesn't matter cause you'll end up doing whatever the hell you want to do, and then tell us that we're all idiots, anyway.:flipoff2:

I'm doing what I want to do. Your an idiot. :p :laughing:

Buy the bushing that costs less and use whatever size bolt it requires, it they're the same price, get the 1/2", more likely to find a longish 1/2" than a 3/8" if you need one and don't find yourself near a decent hardware store.

I actually bought both already and have access to whatever bolts I need. The 3/8 fits a little easier. But I can make either fit. I guess the mores specific question, is the 3/8 bolt strong enough for the application? Or do I need 1/2?

How many bolts? One on both end of the crossmember?

How many bolts? One on both end of the crossmember?

Oops, good question. One bolt on each side of the case built off the stock mounting plates. Going directly to frame.

:DSingle shear? Double shear? Orientation? Length?

We're gonna need more info before we can armchair QB this thing :D

:DSingle shear? Double shear? Orientation? Length?

We're gonna need more info before we can armchair QB this thing :D

Why can't you just read my mind!

Always double sheer. Bolt will run parallel to frame. The bushings are about 3 to 3.5in long. They are the longer ones that you buy complete. That should cover it. The mounts will be beefy. It all comes down to bolt/bushing. What's strong enough. My gut tells me 3/8 is fine. But I could be wrong!

I doubt 3/8 would break unless the weight of the truck came down on it, but you'll have a way better chance of finding a 4 inch long 1/2" bolt than a 3/8 one and since it has a rover engine, shit is gonna randomly fall off, so go 1/2 inch?

The stock bolts that held the mount to the frame were 8 m/m, closer to 5/16", the studs on the stock mounts are 10 m/m, about 7/16".

Sounds like either way you go, you're gonna be bigger than what was there in one position and not much smaller in the other. If you go with the 1/2", you're larger on both and can't blame us if it fails (which it will because it's a piece of machinery and you aren't particularly kind to it).

PT

(and, I believe you have repeatedly said I was "batshit crazy", so it's up to you!)

The stock bolts that held the mount to the frame were 8 m/m,

There were 3 of them each side too.
M10 stud on the rubber mount, then 4x M10's holding the bracket to the case itself.

in the stock config there's no metal holding the tcase and engine to the frame at all, just the shitty rubber mounts...

3/8 will work fine. do 1/2 anyway.

in the stock config there's no metal holding the tcase and engine to the frame at all, just the shitty rubber mounts...

3/8 will work fine. do 1/2 anyway.

Was it you or Ali that broke one at the Badlands and fixed it with a hose clamp?

Why not a 7/16" :)

Was it you or Ali that broke one at the Badlands and fixed it with a hose clamp?


The best and easiest fix for the shitty standard mounts is to drill them all the way through and run a bolt through them. Then the fuckers never peel apart again.

I had one let go on a trail and I had a brand new spare with me that we fitted there and then. By the time I finished the last 40feet of the track, the brand new one had peeled apart too.

Drilled them through and all is good.

The best and easiest fix for the shitty standard mounts is to drill them all the way through and run a bolt through them. Then the fuckers never peel apart again.

I had one let go on a trail and I had a brand new spare with me that we fitted there and then. By the time I finished the last 40feet of the track, the brand new one had peeled apart too.

Drilled them through and all is good.

LOL, I have a set of all steel mounts for my trail rig. If I break a 2" dia piece of steel with 10 m/m studs I have bigger problems.

I ran drag cars for years with no rubber in the suspension/drivetrain (and have the piles of broken transmissions, bent axle housings and ring gears missing teeth to show for it as well) so I think I'm at least gonna try solid motor/trans mounts until something else breaks.

3/8's will hold but for KOH, you need to gun drill them.. :flipoff2:

in the stock config there's no metal holding the tcase and engine to the frame at all, just the shitty rubber mounts...

3/8 will work fine. do 1/2 anyway.

and when they come apart the shifter shakes like crazy and the tranny slams against the tunnel when you get on the skinny pedal!:eek:

The best and easiest fix for the shitty standard mounts is to drill them all the way through and run a bolt through them. Then the fuckers never peel apart again.

I had one let go on a trail and I had a brand new spare with me that we fitted there and then. By the time I finished the last 40feet of the track, the brand new one had peeled apart too.

Drilled them through and all is good.

So you're getting enough chassis flex to rip mounts apart?
Softer mounts could fix that.

Was it you or Ali that broke one at the Badlands and fixed it with a hose clamp?

that was me, but it wasn't one, it was all 4. You have good memory for an old guy, this was a long time ago! :smokin:

The pressure on the poly material is related to the diameter of the bolt. Also to the length of the bolt but will be concentrated toward each end.

The life of the poly is related to how much it deforms as a ratio of through thickness.

I suspect the poly will last better if you use a 1/2" bolt than it would with a 3/8" bolt.