hello list:
I want to swap in a front axle to be the ultimate LIGHTWEIGHT front axle for medium sized tyres.
I want to run 37"-40" max with a mild V8 and a TF727-NP231+doubler.
Now I run 4.88 and ARB on both ends. Around 62" wide axle would do.
My rig is very light for a coilovered, V8 converted Jeep YJ at 1700kilos (weighted)

It outclimbs and out performs much bigger rigs MOSTLY becsue of the balanced design and lightness. I want to keep it that way...so a full weight D60 should be my LAST option.

What would you swap under???????

Thanks
Eduardo

get me that girl in the pictures phone # and Ill tell you. lol. as far as the axle goes I would run a dana 44. easy to build, not that much money to build and if built right and not thrashed on they hold up to 40's. some people will flame you for putting a 44 under your jeep because they think it to small. I would run it all day long and not think twice about putting my foot into it. just know when to get off it and you will be fine

spyder 9s??

spyder 9s??

This.

Lightest axle that can reliably run a 40" tire. To run 40's on a 44 you need to really beef up the outers...essentially running D60 gear on the 44 tubes...and you still end up running a relatively weak ring gear. 9" FTW.

Are you building an axle from what you can find in Spain or wanting something from the USA? If your wanting one shipped to you then a Spider 9, Ballistic Fab 9, or one of Ruff Stuffs new 9" housings would be the way to go for lightweight and handle what you want.

Are you building an axle from what you can find in Spain or wanting something from the USA? If your wanting one shipped to you then a Spider 9, Ballistic Fab 9, or one of Ruff Stuffs new 9" housings would be the way to go for lightweight and handle what you want.

ruff stuffs new 9s look real nice

The vast majority of weight in your swapped in front that can handle 40's reliably will come from the inner C's, knuckles, and brakes.

If you're after weight savings, that will typically dictate you can not run anything at the outers that is OEM.

So, if you're after less weight, you need to look at the fabricated inner C's and knuckles like Spyder Trax makes.

lightweight ???

Trash the:
snorkle
full doors
bumperettes
reese hitch
angle iron bumper
back seat
overhead console
cage padding
4 coats of wax

Then the HP60 will work

:flipoff2:

lightweight ???

Trash the:
snorkle
full doors
bumperettes
reese hitch
angle iron bumper
back seat
overhead console
cage padding
4 coats of wax

Then the HP60 will work

:flipoff2:

In addition, how about leaving the front axle alone and building a real cage first. I've looked at that pic 15 times, and all I see everytime is the girl....weird.:smokin:

1.-Without the snorkel... the engine dies YES we NEED it.
2.-The full doors are what was left when I retired the hard top. Sorry it was a sunny winter day.
3.- I cant remove the rear seat per Euro laws
4.- The angle iron and reese hitch are the lightest and only (and illegal way, as a 2x2 is impossible to legallize in Eurozone) to tow anythink on the trail 5.- cant remove the Fu## bumperrettes without spending $500 on an engineering report for the new BUMPER.
5.- All the electronics are on the top console.... remember we actually do deep river crossings.
6.- Cant remove the padding per safety laws
7.- My YJ may have lots of bondo after being painted BUT HAS never seen any wax. You think Im a surfer or something??

BY the way:
How much weight I save if I swap in a nice F9" instead of a heavy D60??
I have D60s but never seen a Spidertrax 9" or any of the new 9". And will it work????
That was my question.

Thanks for the fashion comments... but can you tell how much does your rig weight? I am just a little curious...


lightweight ???

Trash the:
snorkle
full doors
bumperettes
reese hitch
angle iron bumper
back seat
overhead console
cage padding
4 coats of wax

Then the HP60 will work

:flipoff2:

Thats not a river, it's a fawking pond. What the hell are you guys doing in their. fishing?

5.- cant remove the Fu## bumperrettes without spending $500 on an engineering report for the new BUMPER.

Man I feel for you on this one. I had a buddy that was an Italian that had the same problem. He couldn't even put a winch on the outside without it being on his registration.

why not toy 80 series axles ? 63" wide ,FF rear, HP front
with longfield cv´s and inner shafts it is pretty strong.
and much easier to find parts for those axles in Europe.

I have HDJ-80 axles in my "lightweight" 2000kg MJ,
I haven´t broke anything yet....... hammered them with stroker, doubler and 37" tires (stock cv´s and shafts)

3.- I cant remove the rear seat per Euro laws


BY the way:
How much weight I save if I swap in a nice F9" instead of a heavy D60??
I have D60s but never seen a Spidertrax 9" or any of the new 9". And will it work????
That was my question.

Thanks for the fashion comments... but can you tell how much does your rig weight? I am just a little curious...

Are you kidding about the seats? Are you telling us flip & fold seats are illegal in europe? If not WTF does a bureaucrat care if a seat is folded or removed? If they do, this is scary :eek:. I thought ours were bad.

To answer your first question, check this link: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=749400

2nd Q: Not sure why you're asking, but I'll bite: My Rig weighs about 6800#'s (and my Jeep weighs more than a ton less).

To answer your first question, check this link: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=749400

Not everything in that thread can be trusted. For example, a toy front is 220, but a diamond toy is 350? Hmm, no(There's a 35-40 lb difference between the two, I've had and weighed both).


The weight of your front axle will depend greatly on what knuckles and outers you run.

Basically, You take a dana 60, which generally runs around 500 lbs, and you are, what, replacing the 0.5 wall tube with 0.25 -0.375. That saves 4 to 7 lbs per foot, depending on what you chose. So 25 lbs at best. Maybe another 10 lbs if you narrow it.

Probably another 50 - 75 lbs off the center section. So, about 100ish lbs lighter than a stock one.

Going with late model ball joint/unit bearings will be lighter than kingpin/spindle setup, I believe.

So, you could probably get it around 350-400 lbs.

I think generally a Dana 44 front is in the range of 300-325.

got more pictures of the chick?

In addition, how about leaving the front axle alone and building a real cage first. I've looked at that pic 15 times, and all I see everytime is the girl....weird.:smokin:

there's a jeep in the first thread :eek:


but seriously -


cost aside - Currie 9

cost included - Toy 80 series

my question would be = what's available to you ? I'm thinking a 77'-79' Ford Hp axle is hard to come by and toy axles are easier and cheaper ??

Go ahead and put in the 60. Then look at making it lighter. You can shave the ring gear and put in a lightweight spool. Then you can have the axle shafts gun drilled.

Not sure if it's worth all that for a 100 pounds though.

Put in a Spider 9 and be done with it. It's proven its light it works.

[QUOTE=cybersniper;10187859]

3.- I cant remove the rear seat per Euro laws
4.- The angle iron and reese hitch are the lightest and only (and illegal way, as a 2x2 is impossible to legallize in Eurozone) to tow anythink on the trail 5.- cant remove the Fu## bumperrettes without spending $500 on an engineering report for the new BUMPER.

6.- Cant remove the padding per safety laws
QUOTE]

You can swap in an axle from anywhere and not have to get an "engineering report" but have to get one for a bumper and you can remove the hardtop but can't remove the seat or padding? And I thought we had some dumb laws. I feel for you.

i would put my money into a heavy (and strong) axle, and look for other ways to cut the sprung weight. You'd be surprised how much a heavy front axle can be helpful in certain climbing situations.