: Suzuki Project Questions PLEASE help!
cherokeecrawler 08-15-2009, 11:34 PM I have a 1987 Suzuki Samurai with stock 1.3L and tranny im installing toyota axles under it with 4.88 gears in them. I will be installing 6.5.1 t case gears. I wanna run 39.5 Iroks. Will this gear setup work well or should i install 5.71 r&P? Other question is should i stretch it for the large tires? If so whats the best way to do this any help would be greatly appreciated.If anyone knows how much lift I would need and how do to it. Im trying to learn as i build and i wanna do it right.
Thanks alot,
Corey
raging squirrel 08-16-2009, 12:33 AM many guys bag on the 5.71's as weak, others say they will work under a sammi. with your high range redux of 1.68:1 (with the 6.5 kit) i would say that 5.29's may be enough. someone will chime in who has a better feel for the 1.3. i have only run the 1.6. for a 39" tire some stretch will be a must. i had them on my tracker and it was stretched 12". check out some of the build threads here for ideas and pics of how things worked out for guys running that size tire.
JoMoWheeler 08-16-2009, 07:08 AM 1. 39.5's on stock toy axle shafts will probably go BOOM
2. lift it, there couldnt be a more general question
4 link and coils, 4 link and air shocks
3 link and coils, 3 link and air shocks
leaf springs
1 link
you will need to be more spacific on what you are wanting/needing
consider your skill level, tools available to you, budget, etc.
3. also trail rig, or dd?
4. i would do 529's R&P, longfield axle shafts in your toy axles, with 6.5's in your t case. that would be a good set up IMO.
look up some of these vendors, trail tough, trail gear, rock 4x fabrication, low range offroad. these will help with parts
here is some info now go do some research and good luck with the :mad3: that is probably headed your way from others........:shaking::flipoff2:
ryan_m 08-16-2009, 10:20 AM You should do 39.5 on stock the stock wheel base. Maybe the rear tires will touch the front tires :D
I hate to do this but you need to read up on sammis.
Why 39.5? Have you seen a samurai, they only 33" with front and rear lockers to be unstoppable.
slickrock209 08-16-2009, 10:41 AM my rig on 39.5s i got 5.29 rnp and 6.5.1 t-case gear and 106-107 wb. It works great.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll306/slickrock209/100_1364.jpg
cherokeecrawler 08-16-2009, 09:23 PM Im sorry if I sounded dumb I just really looking for help. I know there is alot of people on the board that love sammis like i do. I already knew i would have to stretch it just didnt know how much. Slickrock that jeep looks awesome is there a build up forum on your zuk on this board? or any board?
Valley Auto 08-16-2009, 09:45 PM I ran 5:89's with a 6.5 case and 38.5's and an enemic 1.3 for two years and for 95% of the rocks and trails I did it was enough. Now that 5% really bothered me so Im putting a rock block reduction box in for another 1.88:1 reduction in my system.
slickrock209 08-16-2009, 10:56 PM Im sorry if I sounded dumb I just really looking for help. I know there is alot of people on the board that love sammis like i do. I already knew i would have to stretch it just didnt know how much. Slickrock that jeep looks awesome is there a build up forum on your zuk on this board? or any board?
Jeep??? Smoke anothere one bud. The rear you dont need the stretch all that much but the front will need enough to clear the firewall, ill guess 5-8in or so. You will need to do a bunch of fender cutting though.
I ran 5:89's with a 6.5 case and 38.5's and an enemic 1.3 for two years and for 95% of the rocks and trails I did it was enough. Now that 5% really bothered me so Im putting a rock block reduction box in for another 1.88:1 reduction in my system.
Im doing the same thing just need a little more reduction and i think i will be happy.
slickrock209 08-16-2009, 10:57 PM http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=748725&highlight=hack+cut+torch
cherokeecrawler 08-18-2009, 10:28 AM It be strickly a trail rig not highway drivin at all. What's the best way to stretch the front
slickrock209 08-18-2009, 01:02 PM It be strickly a trail rig not highway drivin at all. What's the best way to stretch the front
2x3 with a 3/16 wall welded it to your original frame grind the outside welds smooth, and the weld some fish plates on for more strength.
My build thread shows a bunch of pictures on how i did mine.
supazuk94 08-18-2009, 09:09 PM http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113614
chrissybf86 08-18-2009, 11:24 PM my friend runs a toyzuk with 5.29's and 39.5 irock with a 6.5 and it does pretty good it does 50-60mph down the road and thats a 1.3 the crawl is pretty good but i would run 36's and that would be my limit
cherokeecrawler 08-21-2009, 05:02 AM So if i ran 5.29 gears and 6.5.1 and 36x13.50 iroks on toyo axles would that be low gearing for that setup. What im looking for is kind of a low crawl ratio to let the gears domost of the work. Would that be a strong setup? Hey, slickrock how often do you break?Is your axles upgraded with longfields?
cajunsuzukispider 08-21-2009, 06:58 AM I got 39.5 iroks now, when I had all stock suzuki gearing and 5.89 r&p my speedometer read dead accurate. so if you're gonna go with a lower high range you wouldn't really need 5.89, 5.29's should work fine.
besides, when we air down, the center of the axleshaft goes down toward the ground, this measurement from axleshaft center to ground is called the 'static loaded radius'.
when you're axleshaft gets 3" closer to the ground, it's like running a 6" shorter tire as far as the r&p are concerned. and since it's closer to the ground, the ground has less leverage to act on your axleshaft. it's like having a 6" shorter tire, only a much much larger footprint than a shorter tire full of air.
keep in mind, too, that the top of the tire doesn't go down or move further from the frame/body so you'll still need that clearance for running and articulation.
I'd suggest a 1-link, it's much easier to fab, simpler, no complicated angles and measurements to make, it locates the axle under the rig just fine, you'll just need a trackbar(panhard bar) to keep it centered left-to-right under the rig.
so it's more like a 2-link actually.
when I stretched my front, I left the stock springs right where they were. I pushed the axle forward, which put the middle of the spring pack behind the axletube. I built some 'bridges' that run from the axletube back to the main 1-link bar, and the springs sit on there. you can bolt it together, but I leave mine floating so the axle can hang all it wants to. also the shocks still bolt to the spring pack so I don't need really long shocks.
here's a pic to see what I meant.
and no flaming me, this isn't my thread, just trying to link a pic with the description.
flame me later, again , if you must.:flipoff2::smokin:
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp262/jamesdoucet/parking_funny_again.jpg
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp262/jamesdoucet/SUNP0002.jpg
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp262/jamesdoucet/hangingwiththejeep.jpg
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