Any one use EBC Yellowstuff pads on D2?

[What Rd.]

Any one use EBC Yellowstuff pads on D2? Do they work noticeably better? Any noise? Are they worth the extra money?

[Kyle_T]

I have green stuff and Ultimaxx's (dont remember which i f and r)and they bring the suck.they were great the first 3-4k but now they dont stop as well and are loud. I say dont stop well, they dont stop well cold so a panic stop can be interesting...

IMO OEM pads and rotors performed waay better. (real OEM from the dealer, not the britpart oem or whatever people try to get to pass as that...)

[nicks90]

i tried the EBC greenstuff pads on my defender once, never again.

they did work very well once they had warmed up - possibly too well as it felt like the were grabbing at even the slightest touch of the pedal. But the first push of the pedal felt very wooden and needed a good shove. I wouldnt go as far as to say they were rubbish on the first braking from cold.....just felt a bit numb.
But the main thing that put me off was they were totally worn out within a few K. I know my truck sees its fair share of mud and i expect pads to wear down quickly because of this, but i get twice the mileage out of genuine pads and they dont cost as much as the EBC pads.

[What Rd.]

I've been running the GreenStuffs. They wear nicely and I haven't had any problems with noise, but like you say, they don't stop very well. There is no bite when you first press the pedal.
The problem I have with factory pads is they tend to wear the rotors unevenly and that makes it difficult to run a second set of pads on the same rotors. This is something I'm afraid of as a possible problem with YellowStuffs. I'd prefer to not have to spend that kind of money replacing pads and rotors every 25-30K miles.
I've seen Ferodo pads wear nicely, but I have never run them on my own truck. I Know LR uses them as a OE on later model trucks. I may give them a shot depending on what other feedback I get. I'm still interested in the YellowStuffs though. On paper they look good.
Thanks.

[PTSchram]

Why bother? Throw cheap pads at it and drive it until they are gone.

Genyouwine? LOL, far too many forget that OEM also means low bidder.

[Kyle_T]

Did you ever put those 03-04 front calipers on? I didnt realize who it was at first...

[spork2367]

yeah, i got "genuine" pads for my rrc. there was an intermediate owner who owned it for about 1000 miles and put some crap ass wear ever pads on that squealed like a bastard. when i got my genuine pads, they were ferodo pads. they were nice at first, but now they squeal too. abs isn't working right now, and i easily locked up all fours on the highway the other day with minimal pedal force. (the pedal seems very firm, but it's my first rrc, so i don't know what normal is.)

[What Rd.]

Yes, but it does not stop as well as the other truck I drove with the same M/C /calipers combo that had different pads. That truck would "lock up"(ABS would kick in) the front end quick. So I know it's a pad issue and I would like to try something new.

[PTSchram]

If they squeal, they probably work well at stopping the vehicle.

[What Rd.]

I'm open to using Ferodo pads because I had very few complaints from customers about noise when I was installing them on D1's and RRC's.

[spork2367]

i'm inclined to think that mine squeal because i was lazy and didn't get the rotors turned when i put the new pads on. the old hard as a rock pads probably polished my rotors which then glazed my new pads in short order. they stop nice though.

[jymmiek]

IMO OEM pads and rotors performed waay better. (real OEM from the dealer, not the britpart oem or whatever people try to get to pass as that...)

The pads and rotors supplied by Land Rover for DII's have a different manufacturer as of a month or two ago. I can't say how they work in the long run, but they look cheap. They look like someone just spray painted the rotors while being drunk rather than giving them that purple looking finish. The friction material looks very coarse, which I don't know if its a bad thing, but it looks like they are going to fall apart.

I've had EBC pads and rotors before and I wouldn't buy them again, they wore out very quickly and didn't stop well until warm and only while going forward. I would give the Britpart pads and rotors a try before I'd get the new style genuine ones, although they are probably the same thing...

[What Rd.]

I'll use Brembo rear rotors and Pelinga (not positive about spelling) front rotors. Most others seem to be crap or I could use DBA's, but they are too expensive for my taste. My only hold up is what pads to use.

[jymmiek]

On a side note, aren't the Yellowstuff pads even more high performance? Which would make me think they would suck even more cold...

[What Rd.]

I think it's more in how soft the compound is. An organic pad does not seem to work well cold or hot, but does not make noise or eat up the rotors. Harder compounds stop better hot and cold but may make noise and will wear the rotor faster. According to EBC's site, the YellowStuff pads work better, both cold and hot, than the GreenStuffs.
Based on pad material, shims, price and availability, I decided to go with some Akebono pads. I have the luxury of returning them if I don't like them, so I figured I'd give them a try. (weekend project)

[fridgefreezer]

I run greenstuff only because my calipers are wilwood and genuine WW pads are twice the price. They stop fine hot, cold, wet, dry and wear pretty well considering the truck spends a lot of time in mud or sand.

On a stock LR there should be very little wrong with the stock brakes using all genuine/OE parts or at the least a "known good" brand such as AP, Ferodo, Brembo.

I wouldn't trust Britpart to make an ashtray, never mind anything mission critical like brakes, bearings etc.

[PTSchram]

In the US, just go to Napa. The brake parts are all made by Raybestos and for the time being, in the USA (for those for whom that matters).