If you have any questions, input, tips or tricks or horror stories about notching tube. The good, the bad and the ugly, here is the place for it.


Hole saw notchers......good or bad?
Best hole saw?
Abrasive notching vs. end mill style notching?
How many notches do you get from an abrasive belt?
Notching with a chop saw?
Best way, worst way to notch tube?
Software to help with tricky notch angles?
Notching schedule 40 pipe.....best way?
Home made notchers, lets see em!

I have a Harbor Freight notcher and use hole saws for most notches. It does OK if you don't rush it. I picked up a bunch of hole saws on a garage sale. They work great and the price was right! :laughing:

For hard angles I use the plasma torch.

BendTech pro makes some great templates for marking the tube - especially on complex notches.

Never tried one of the abrasive notchers or a chop saw (or recipro saw).

Kindergarten Tip: Be sure to bevel the edges of your notches before you weld. I know it's basic, but I've seen a lot of stuff that obviously hadn't been beveled.

Edit: Wish I could justify the spend on a nice Baileigh notcher.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Links/

I use a band saw with the chop saw style of method for tricky joints. bridgeport mill with 1.75", 1.5", 1.25" 1.0", etc roughing mill with center cutting for notching anything easy and less than 45 degrees. I touch them all up with a bench grinder so I get full wall thickness at the weld joint.

i have some cheapy notcher i got off ebay for like 30 bucks and just use hole saws... and so far have built about two chassis with it... it's not bad.. i would think if you are a shop you would want something better/faster... mine has just started getting loose.. it has brass bushings in it..

if you get a cheap notcher, i would recommend the first thing you do is to re-enforce it and make a solid mount for it... this will extend the life of the brass bushings in it..

i just picked up a cheap floor drill press, a HF unit, and will be turning that into my notcher... just need to build up a jig to hold the tubing..

for crazy angles i use a cut off wheel...

and then a flapper disk for get rid of the thin portions of tubing prior to welding..

I have the JD Notchmaster and after using HF ones for years I will never go back. Plus it does offset notches. For holesaws I just use Lennox ones that I get at my local Lowes.

Endmill notchers are by far the best....and the most expensive. Abrasive belts wear out too fast. Home garage guys should be fine with a hole saw notcher, a GOOD hole saw notcher that is. Starret hole saws are the best hole saw in my openion. Carbide hole saws chip too easy but the first few cuts are awesome. Then thay go to shit quick. Having offset capibility is a must, being able to cope on a radius would be SOOOO nice. But that would make a basic hole saw notcher WAY too expensive.

I personally have the Pro-tools notcher with the 1/2 thick steel base plate. As I have mentioned in other threads here I turned the shaft down and had it coated with carbide coating and finish ground to .0003 under the bearing ID. It's as smooth as butter, no rattle in the bearing block. They need to hold a better tollerance on their shafts for a more rigid cut. That added chatter kills a hole saw and could cause more deflection and not cut to size like it should. Probably not much more larger but still enough to bug me. Don't forget to choke up on the shaft, make it as short as possible so you minimize deflection, you could bend you shaft if your puching it thru hard enough. Get your mind out of the damn gutter, we're talking tube notchers her god damnit! :flipoff2:

Any thoughts on deeper holesaws?

Endmill notchers are by far the best....and the most expensive. Abrasive belts wear out too fast. Home garage guys should be fine with a hole saw notcher, a GOOD hole saw notcher that is. Starret hole saws are the best hole saw in my openion. Carbide hole saws chip too easy but the first few cuts are awesome. Then thay go to shit quick. Having offset capibility is a must, being able to cope on a radius would be SOOOO nice. But that would make a basic hole saw notcher WAY too expensive.



About the carbide hole saws, i'd be willing to bet your speed is still too high.. those carbides are gonna be zingin.

Just a thought

I've got the HF notcher and for what I paid, it does what it is suppose to. I ended up putting some shims behind the tube clamp to get it more inline with the CL of tube. I use the Rigid hole saws and have been pretty impressed with them so far. The bushings are wearing out on mine but I have used it pretty hard and was notching sch 40. Those are the only kind I have experience with so I can't comment on any other styles or brands, just give my feedback on the one I have.

I've got the HF notcher and for what I paid, it does what it is suppose to. I ended up putting some shims behind the tube clamp to get it more inline with the CL of tube. I use the Rigid hole saws and have been pretty impressed with them so far. The bushings are wearing out on mine but I have used it pretty hard and was notching sch 40. Those are the only kind I have experience with so I can't comment on any other styles or brands, just give my feedback on the one I have.


X2, between my plasma and my HF notcher, I"ve never had to redesign something because of a poor notch. I had to shim my arbor out about 1/16" too to get it lined up, but other than that I've done 2 cages with my HF notcher and it's slower than dirt but eventually gets the job done

Subscribed. I have a HF notcher and HATE it. I've only done one cage with it but swore I would not do another with it. Lately I've been template and plasma notching. My HF bushings are sloppy even with liberal lubrication and I've had to use loctite to keep them in place several times. The biggest problem with mine is that with its slop and poor quality it cuts slightly offset on the tube.

I'm thinking of a Notchmaster unless anyone can steer me in a different direction

Any thoughts on deeper holesaws?

Yeah: make some, and make them affordable. :flipoff2:

Some links I have saved for software that will create templates to wrap around the pipe and mark where to cut.

http://www.harderwoods.com/pipetemplate.php

http://www.ozhpv.org.au/shed/tubemiter.htm

Yeah: make some, and make them affordable. :flipoff2:

We have them in stock. http://www.vansantent.com/hole_saw_cutters_JMR.htm

Ghetto style here, I use a Milwaukee Port-A-Band, and a vice. Touch it up with a flap disk on an angle grinder and its ready for weld.

Here's some tube notching for ya

Here's some tube notching for ya

All that great notching and you couldn't make a continuous weld :flipoff2:
Just kidding, that's wicked work :smokin:

abrasive notching kicks ass !!!
Used a Fein (of Fien, whatever) a few nights ago, I wish I would have had that when I built the cage for my 2wd pulling truck !! That thing is silly easy and scary fast! Belts seem to last quite awhile.
I can see where a 6"wide belt would be neater for "steeper" angle joints, but the altered dragster we were working on didn't have any.
After using that, I wouldn't dick with hole saws or end mills. And I had bought some long end mills for using them for that,,,,,
Shane, look at that thing and copy it with a 6" wide belt !!!!!

abrasive notching kicks ass !!!
Used a Fein (of Fien, whatever) a few nights ago, I wish I would have had that when I built the cage for my 2wd pulling truck !! That thing is silly easy and scary fast! Belts seem to last quite awhile.
I can see where a 6"wide belt would be neater for "steeper" angle joints, but the altered dragster we were working on didn't have any.
After using that, I wouldn't dick with hole saws or end mills. And I had bought some long end mills for using them for that,,,,,
Shane, look at that thing and copy it with a 6" wide belt !!!!!

I have one, had it for 2.5 yrs now. Yes it makes very nice notches, and does so quite quickly. However, I'm sick of it! EVERYTHING including my ceiling is covered in nasty gritty fine dust. The vice and table are poorly designed and don't live up to the abrasive grit. Also, high angle notches really kill the belts.

I have one, had it for 2.5 yrs now. Yes it makes very nice notches, and does so quite quickly. However, I'm sick of it! EVERYTHING including my ceiling is covered in nasty gritty fine dust. The vice and table are poorly designed and don't live up to the abrasive grit. Also, high angle notches really kill the belts.

Time for an endmill notcher :)

Time for an endmill notcher :)

Yes






























if you can knock a 0 off the end of that $ tag. :flipoff2:

Yes































if you can knock a 0 off the end of that $ tag. :flipoff2:

Multiple machine discounts baby! Lets kill 2 birds with one stone.

Here's some tube notching for ya

Not knocking that guys skill, but what's up with the weld across the tube in the upper right corner?:confused:

Not knocking that guys skill, but what's up with the weld across the tube in the upper right corner?:confused:

There's one on the middle left as well...

After looking at it again, it looks like the 'flaps/ears' were cut off to drop the tube down into the node after welding around all the other joints. :smokin:

I want something like this. Too bad it's only good for one angle.
http://www.edwardsironworkers.com/pipe.html

I want something like this. Too bad it's only good for one angle.
http://www.edwardsironworkers.com/pipe.html

You can do different angles.....its just impossible to dial in on a given degree :shaking:

There are a couple threads floating around about notchers. Let's get this thread crackin again.

Let's talk notchers guys!

5-axis laser notcher!!!!!!!!!

You can do different angles.....its just impossible to dial in on a given degree :shaking:

I bet with a few hours practice and a pen/paper you can come up with a really simple layout for all kinds of angles.

What drill make and model are you guys using for your holesaw notchers? What HP and so on.

What drill make and model are you guys using for your holesaw notchers? What HP and so on.
I have been using my cordless milwaukie. I don't have a half inch corded drill, so this works for now.

The one we use in our notcher video sucked.

1/2 capacity Millwaukie Magnum corded drill is my choice for notching. It free spims at 850 rpm and it a high torque drill. Starrett hole saws and my favorite hole saw aswell. I notch wide open and no cutting fluid and still get plenty of life out of my saws. I'm a 20+ year machinist so I completely know the importance of cutting fluids, but this is how I prefer to notch. So please, I don't want to hear neg crap.

I never use cutting fluid either. Doesn't seem to make a difference in cut speed, quality or hole-saw longevity, only upside is that the chips clump together so they're easier to clean up, but then you have to clean the part more, so it's a wash.

We've had just the opposite...much easier, cleaner, and faster cuts with cutting fluid, and the cutter life does go up.

What drill make and model are you guys using for your holesaw notchers? What HP and so on.

When i first started notching tube i was using a cordless drill. It took me a month to kill the drill :( Then i moved to a corded Milwaukee magnum. It did the job great, except if I notched alot of tube it would start getting hot. Now i think ive found the best solution so far. Its not cheap tho, but check on ebay lot for an IR 7 series, 500 rpm drill. New they are actually more then a JMR 1000. Air drills just pain rock at notching. Not only is the speed just right for the hole saws, the drill never heats up, and if its hot outside you get a nice cool blast of air while notching the tube.

This drill is crazy tho, with the electric and cordless drills if the holesaw would catch on the tubing, the drill would snap around and kill my wrist. Now with the air drill, if I uses a shitty hole saw like a morse, and the holesaw catches on the tubing, the drill doesnt stop. Instead the notcher goes from having teeth to toothless instantly. Ive actually done it on the first notch on a brand new hole saw. I will no longer buy a morse hole saw. I really like the JMR saws especially if im working with thin wall .095 - .065 4130 moly tubing. Ad some lube and these notchers just eat thru the tubing like butter. If im using thick wall .120+ tubing I really like the carbide lenox saws, they arent cheap but you can run them faster and they stay sharper much longer. I can notch .120 wall mild steel 1 3/4" tubing faster then .095 1 3/4" 4130. The speed really helps, and you can run them totally dry.


As for lube, i find that while it stinks old diff oil works the best. Its also really sticky so it clings to the holesaw and tubing very well.


IF your going to notch alot of tubing, get yourself a small air belt file. These guys are super handy getting the notch just right.

I have tried a lot of different things, for me a layout software such as Bend Tec Pro and a plasma cutter has been the best way. Not only does BTP lay out any notch you could imagine, it also gives you a dimension to hold between ends so you get the length of the tube right the first shot as well. Makes life so easy. It does get repetitive cutting out all those templates, but the 5 minutes it takes to prep the tube for cutting is almost always faster than a machining type approach. Just tack a piece of angle to the table like a V and lay the tube in, turn it with one hand and follow the line with the other. Bent pieces take a steady hand because you can't spin them, but its still easier that a notcher by far.

We've had just the opposite...much easier, cleaner, and faster cuts with cutting fluid, and the cutter life does go up.

100 notches on a holesaw?

100 notches on a holesaw?

I said we get better results with cutting oil than without.

Have you been partaking ot the cutting oil??? I think you're seeing things. :dustin:



And to get back on track...HERE's The next tubing notcher I'd like to have! :laughing:

YouTube - Torchmate Plasma Tube & Pipe Cutting Attachment (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZnz7SBqNko&NR=1)


Apparently they've now got a full lathe head attachment too! Would be dang slick when combined with the CNC plasma and the engraving head capabilities we've already got! :eek:

Anyone else seeing a flash eliminator/reducer in the vid?:laughing:

OMG so sick. I wonder if they would ever make a setup just for notching with a program to run with bendtech. Now that would be the ultimate notcher. any shape. Any angle. All at a push of a button

OMG so sick. I wonder if they would ever make a setup just for notching with a program to run with bendtech. Now that would be the ultimate notcher. any shape. Any angle. All at a push of a button


Like this?

YouTube - PLASMA COPE ADVANCEDFAB.COM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_tQmq6EXGw)

Just like that. Now can you guys make something like that, for a powermax 45, cause i got one of those already :D and then price it like the TN-250, you wont make much money but you will have a bunch of people constantly ordering it.

E-Fab, what air drill are you using - have a make an model? I have my Baileigh TN-250 in hand and Cant WAIT to get started!

If you have any questions before I get a video and writeup posted, let me know and I'll see if I can answer them! All I can say is it is a very well made machine!

Here's some tube notching for ya

AND.....This just became my comp background!!! Nice

AND.....This just became my comp background!!! Nice

Some more extreme angles for ya

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/th_IMG00481.jpg

E-Fab, what air drill are you using - have a make an model? I have my Baileigh TN-250 in hand and Cant WAIT to get started!

If you have any questions before I get a video and writeup posted, let me know and I'll see if I can answer them! All I can say is it is a very well made machine!


Any updates? :smokin:

Absolutely!

Tonight I FINALLY got a chance to throw some tube in this rig and I'll say that Radial clamp and the rotary handle, really make it Super Easy to get stock clamped into the Notcher and it saves a Ton of time. I had an old Pro Tools notcher and it took more time to get the tube lined up due to the small handle and the V-Notch clamp. I can't wait to actually throw in a larger piece of tube to see how easy it is to set up. The larger rotary handle is much easier to work with, even with the short pieces of tube I've worked with so far. I'm the only person in my shop, so Having a quick clamping system, really helped out so far. This is the first time I've notched with a unit that required a hand drill, and it burns right through there and holds it real tight. Didn't even have to put the hiatus to the clamp as I did before. I'm also using a cheap Menards drill, and I'll give speks on that later...


I cut my tube real short because I have 2 more tubes intersecting this joint and I'll post that later as well.

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/488/img1637h.jpg

http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/5264/img1638x.jpg

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/2185/img1639l.jpg

1.75"x.120" DOM tube. The angle dial is real easy to read when its not covered in metal! :flipoff2:

http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/4205/img1642q.jpg

No need for three hands to adjust angle anymore. MAN thats a real help. When I had my PT notcher, it always seemed I would run out of drill press mounting before getting the angle I needed and I can guarantee you will not get these kind of angles out of one of those!

Guys, I'll get some more time behind this rig and let you know what I find out. I also have a Compound notch that I need to cut and I'll show how easy that is as well!

Lookin good!

Lookin good!

if that machine did 3" id be ordering it already...

if that machine did 3" id be ordering it already...

Notching allot of 3" tube are ya?

Notching allot of 3" tube are ya?

well i wouldnt buy a notcher for 3" if i didnt!

well i wouldnt buy a notcher for 3" if i didnt!


What is the application?

3"x 1/4 wall dom tubing in 30-60 degree cuts.

3"x 1/4 wall dom tubing in 30-60 degree cuts.

Holy cow :eek:


What are you building?

Getting ready to finally start bending some bumpers, but had to build these shackle mounts before tackling the bumper job.

This dayum humidity makes all the steel rust almost instantly!

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/6424/img1704f.jpg

Burned it all in.

http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/4587/img1699sj.jpg

http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/9067/img1697sr.jpg

I think the rotary clamp handle is the best part of the Notcher. Super easy to tighten and untighten, with one hand!

Holy cow :eek:


What are you building?

not a fucking thing without a good way to notch 3"!!

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/sargin311/CIMG0918.jpg

Never want to hand notch agian......

Dads shop recently picked this baby up, and man i was in heaven using it today

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/sargin311/CIMG0918.jpg

Never want to hand notch agian......

Dads shop recently picked this baby up, and man i was in heaven using it today



The Cadillac of tube notchers!

Your Dad has good taste! :smokin:

I'll try and get a close up photo as the tn-250 kicked it's ass!

Bobby.....see if you can beat this video! :smokin:


YouTube - Baileigh TN-250 Tube & Pipe Notcher with Radial Vise Tubing Notching Pipe Coping Machine (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9au7P7_Ni3I)

Bobby.....see if you can beat this video! :smokin:


YouTube - Baileigh TN-250 Tube & Pipe Notcher with Radial Vise Tubing Notching Pipe Coping Machine (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9au7P7_Ni3I)

Dude needs to wear safety glasses.

.

Dude needs to wear safety glasses.

.

I agree

How much would a TN-250 tube notcher cost me, I really don't to spend more than $300 on a hole saw tube notcher.

How much would a TN-250 tube notcher cost me, I really don't to spend more than $300 on a hole saw tube notcher.

PM sent

I used to work at a chassis shop they don't use notchers.
Instaid they use a band saw. If you look at one side of the notch it is almost a straight line you just cut one side at a time with a little roll of the tube comes out pretty dam close. I cut thousands of notches that way. You would be supprise how fast you can do it.

They built all the same parts over and over so they had notch jigs slide over and scribe the notch into the tube then just cut it on the band saw.

They also had a iron worker notch for the 2 staight notches on the whole chassis.

Then you move onto the belt sander cheapo 6x48 and use the hub to smooth out the notch.

as for those long notches shallow angle tubes we designed around them by bending the last bit of the tube so you get a normal notch instead of a 10" long notch.
They had a bender that can bend up to the last bit of the tube.
http://www.vansantent.com/images/90_degree_bender.jpg


I personally will never put 6 tubes converging into one place. If you need to replace one have fun. A 3" moment arm on a tube is not all that big og a deal.

In my personal shop I don't use the band saw because because my band saw sucks the blade always falls off. I got a cheapo hole saw notcher one of the $40 ones works ok it gets me close then I usually finish it up with the belt sander.

Out of all the notchers I would get the Baileigh NT-250 I really like the chuck instead of the vise design.

I have a lot of other tools on the list of must have this is more of a like to have at the moment.

~Justin

I have a JD2 Notchmaster. I really like the horizontal drilling versus the vertical ones. I also use a Porter Cable 1/2 drill. It's an awesome drill with a ton of power. Whenever it's not in use I don't leave the drill hanging on it. I take it off so the weight isn't a problem.


I'm still experimenting with holesaws. The lenox seem to work great. I have a couple Morse ones I'm trying. The teeth seem to break off easily. Next I'll be trying the JMR ones. I really want the deep saws.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/sargin311/CIMG0918.jpg

Never want to hand notch agian......

Dads shop recently picked this baby up, and man i was in heaven using it today


I see you removed the guard :smokin:

Can anyone do this?

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/IMG_0910.jpg

Did some tinkering on my Notchmaster tonight, not sure which, if any, of the common notchers have this done from the factory, but they all should. Also got a new mill, and wanted to use it, seemed more productive than most other things I could have been doing with it. Changing hole-saws is a PITA no more.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f306/maxyedor/downsized_02040122402.jpg

Also starting to design my new notcher, as much as I like my Notchmaster, there are a few minor issues I'd like to take care of, so I hit the steel yard for some 1.5" plate and then hit Staples for more graph paper. I think I've got a couple pretty cool ideas, basicly fixing everything I've broken on all the various notchers I've uses.

We've had just the opposite...much easier, cleaner, and faster cuts with cutting fluid, and the cutter life does go up.

I couldn't agree more.

I have the tn-250 kicks ass. Does everything I need to do, and more.

Can anyone do this?

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/IMG_0910.jpg


.....or this?

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_LN0hj7wFqAk/TQ9bNuOT1eI/AAAAAAAAAHw/34yu6nQ4XGo/s720/PRI%202010%20037.jpg

I really like that Baileigh.

Anyway I've done a bunch of testing with drills and hole saws. I've come to the conclusion that if you use a standard drill they all seem to cut about the same. Except the lenox. They do seem to last longer. I've tested the starrett, morse, jmr, lenox. I like the jmr deep ones, but at the cost vs longevity I just can't justify it for every cut. I'll keep one around for when I need it then take it off when I don't. I use cutting fluid on every cut. This is about 8 months of testing.

With my big boy drill. I have a mamba jamba porter cable 1/2" drill all steel drill that will drill anything. I break teeth off the hole saws when they catch. Except the lenox. I would try other saws then when the teeth would break off I'd grab the used lenox and use it. The things just keep on going. Very rarely do I break teeth off on them.

So for my money I'll keep one jmr deep saw for when I need it then get the lenox saws at lowes for 90% of what I do.

I really like that Baileigh.

Anyway I've done a bunch of testing with drills and hole saws. I've come to the conclusion that if you use a standard drill they all seem to cut about the same. Except the lenox. They do seem to last longer. I've tested the starrett, morse, jmr, lenox. I like the jmr deep ones, but at the cost vs longevity I just can't justify it for every cut. I'll keep one around for when I need it then take it off when I don't. I use cutting fluid on every cut. This is about 8 months of testing.

With my big boy drill. I have a mamba jamba porter cable 1/2" drill all steel drill that will drill anything. I break teeth off the hole saws when they catch. Except the lenox. I would try other saws then when the teeth would break off I'd grab the used lenox and use it. The things just keep on going. Very rarely do I break teeth off on them.

So for my money I'll keep one jmr deep saw for when I need it then get the lenox saws at lowes for 90% of what I do.

No need for long JMR holesaws with the TN-250. You can just hit it from each side. :smokin:

YouTube - Baileigh TN-250 Tube & Pipe Notcher with Radial Vise Tubing Notching Pipe Coping Machine (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wqkotm-LJuY&feature=player_embedded)

Blu-Mol hole saws, get them for $5 from McMaster Carr. Order the bi-metal deep cutting ones. I ordered like 8 of them, and am only on number 2 after a few cages, my buggy and an exo...oh, and I use cheap motor oil for lube...:flipoff2:

Can you notch this with your notcher?

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff279/johnangal/UTV%20INC/006-1.jpg

Here's a lil trick I use on short pieces with a notch on each end. On bigger stuff I'll put the v clamp and angle finder on it, but this works great.

Notch one end, line up the other and just snug the clamp. Then use another piece of tube and eye it to make sure its parallel with the other. Or if its off angle, you could put an angle finder on it...
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/My%2047%20WILLYS%20CJ-2A/1947WILLYS229.jpg

Chain saw bar oil works great for notching.

Can you notch this with your notcher?

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff279/johnangal/UTV%20INC/006-1.jpg

YES!!! :flipoff2:

Because I have a TN-250!

http://www.dilysimotorsports.com/images/IMG_3195.JPG

http://www.dilysimotorsports.com/images/IMG_3195.JPG

No offense, but thats like putting steel rims on a Porsche. Get a damn end mill so you can do it in one shot! :flipoff2:

yeah yeah yeah...

Use this at work and it works damn good, pretty thick (especially when cold) so it "clings" to the metal.

http://img.directindustry.com/images_di/photo-g/biodegradable-cutting-fluid-244635.jpg

Anyone ever use wax?

YouTube - ‪Baileigh TN-250 Notcher‬‏ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IqVsBPgNuhw)

YES!!! :flipoff2:

Because I have a TN-250!


Well post up some pics man! :smokin:

Got a couple of notches to make this weekend as a matter of fact! I'll grab the camera! :smokin:

Got a couple of notches to make this weekend as a matter of fact! I'll grab the camera! :smokin:

Let's see em'

Anyone notching on a bend?

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/2011-11-11150810.jpg

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/2011-11-11150815.jpg

this thread is worthless :flipoff2:

I took some video a while back of the TN-250 notching an open end of a tube to simulate notching on the vehicle. I actually make through notch with a smaller diameter holesaw.

This is your Proof that the TN-250 can be mounted directly to a tube and perform a notch! :smokin:

Baileigh TN-250 Notcher - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-CJfAtAn5Q)

This is your Proof that the TN-250 can be mounted directly to a tube and perform a notch! :smokin:


I've got real heavy duty bench that I built with a blanchard ground top. The bottom has racks to hold all three diesets. On one side is a 5" tube that I clamp the whole notcher and drill to just like that for out of the way storage.

I thought I would add a small nugget of help I found. I am not a professional fabricator nor do I have lots of experience. But when I started notching tube for my newest buggy build, I had to try a few different holesaws. I have had great results from dewalt holesaws. Rigid blew it's teeth off, lennox bent, and some other brand dulled up,
I started out using motor oil as a lubricant. It works but leaves a nasty residue u can't weld. I bought a small bottle of cutting fluid not knowing what I was looking for. I realized after great results that it was water based. This is great!
It is called relton option 1. It's good because u just wipe with a rag and can weld it without oil residue.
So use water based cutting fluid to get rid of oil residue.

We stock a water based notching lube that works very well.

http://www.vansantent.com/tube_coping_machines/notching_lube.htm

Here's a Tip for using it - Keep it in your shop fridge! It's a little thicker when it's cold and will stay in place better while your getting ready to notch the tube. I stumbled across this while working on a roll cage update in my un-heated garage.

We stock a water based notching lube that works very well.

http://www.vansantent.com/tube_coping_machines/notching_lube.htm

Here's a Tip for using it - Keep it in your shop fridge! It's a little thicker when it's cold and will stay in place better while your getting ready to notch the tube. I stumbled across this while working on a roll cage update in my un-heated garage.

My bending and notching lube in my unheated garage here in Wisconsin is like freakin tar it is so cold outside....:D

How much for a tn250 shipped to 28208? I used to have no problem using the harbor freight notchers and have had three of them modified in different ways, but they do wear out quick and piss me off more than help...

Anybody use this guy?

http://www.eastwood.com/pipe-notcher-and-hole-saw-kit.html

How much would a TN-250 tube notcher cost me, I really don't to spend more than $300 on a hole saw tube notcher.

Can I get a price on this too or one that would keep me around $300

Loving my tn-250 Shane.
Thanks
Jess
http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u499/jwbogger/IMG_20120126_222221.jpg
http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u499/jwbogger/IMG_20120126_222204.jpg
http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u499/jwbogger/IMG_20120126_222024.jpg

Lookin good man! :smokin: