ive always built fords or jeeps but i decided to switch it up. trying to do it half way decent but still relatively cheap (under $2000). Let me know what you all think.--
87 k10 shortbed, 350, 700r4, 4inch lift, 33's, cowl hood, tool box, 90% rust free, converted to carb. light bottom end knock, blown head gasket. - $600 (has elderbrock high rise intake manifold and performer carb, and vortec heads). Needs rear springs and front spring bushings
6" suspesion lift (with rear springs & shocks) brand new off a buddy that bought it new and never used it - $300
set of 1/2 rears with 4.56's w/ lockers - $100
35" m/t's on rims w/ decent tread - $200
jasper 350 w/ 50k out of an 88 1500 that I parted out -$0 (made my money back parting it out). I want to put the heads, intake manifold and carb off the old motor on this one. Also ordered a compcams Xtreme 4x4 4262 cam for it. ($190 shipped).
gaskets etc. - $50
total= $1440

Thought about doing a body lift and 38.5's if i found em at a decent price but not sure about the 1/2 ton rears on 38.5's. Just trying to build something that will be decent in the mud w/ a good amount of power that can still be driven to work if the daily is down. I have someone that said they could have the heads ported and polished for free for me. (not sure if they'll come through or not though). But thats where I am at now. I have all the parts, just need to find the time to slap it all together. What do you all think

first search for about a year or so.. then yank the 700 for a 400 or a 465. shit can the half ton axles, get some one tons, spool the rear, lock the front, chop the fenders and run 40s.

It would not be unheard of to get what you are looking for at the 2000 dollar mark, but as many people on here say, expect your project to cost atleast twice what you budget for. For example a new cross over steering setup can run in the 400-600 range alone. Sounds like you have some good parts to start with, can always upgrade later on when you start breaking parts. If youre going to go with those axles that have lockers, i would not go above a 35" tire, and easy on the pedal. with 38.5's I think you will start breaking axle shafts from the git go. The 700r4 is not a horrible transmission, the OD is nice if it is seeing highway time, but if you start really beating on the truck then keep an eye out for a th400 or sm465 type tranny. Can always put together what you have and wheel it till it breaks. I would stick with 35" tires, no body lift and cut the finders if needed. just my .02.

I made a mistake, it only has a locker in the rear. not the front. It will be seeing some highway time (6 miles to work if needed, or about 20 miles to the woods tops) but not a whole lot. But for the prices i'm getting the rears and tires for i figure just run them until i break them and keep my eyes open for a good deal on a set of 44 or 60 and a 14b in the mean time.

and gilraine, my plan was to run the 700 until it takes a shit, then throw a 465 in when the time comes.

or if i wanted to double my budget a friend of a friend is selling a set of duece rears set up for 4ws with the pinion brakes, all the hyro steering, 17in springs front & rear, and 48" tires (not sure exactly what they are, almost look like a type of terra tire), that came off some show truck for $1800. haha i wish, except then so much for driving it to work. in nj at least.

I remember starting out with the idea of a budget build. Now I''m so hooked I quit drinking and eating out just so I can buy anything I see that will make mine better. A D60 will blow anyones $2000 budget if youdon't have one laying around or given to you. I can't find one near Kansas City for under $900. Good luck with the plan!

I remember starting out with the idea of a budget build. Now I''m so hooked I quit drinking and eating out just so I can buy anything I see that will make mine better. A D60 will blow anyones $2000 budget if youdon't have one laying around or given to you. I can't find one near Kansas City for under $900. Good luck with the plan!

TRUTH
But if you hold off on the 60 you can buy a doubler now. If general 4x4 tech has taught me any thing about "budget building" its that its not real and if your not living off romen noodles your doing it wrong. :D

trading has been my key to cut costs latey...and craigslist

TRUTH
But if you hold off on the 60 you can buy a doubler now. If general 4x4 tech has taught me any thing about "budget building" its that its not real and if your not living off romen noodles your doing it wrong. :D

trading has been my key to cut costs latey...and craigslist

I'd rather have the front 60 than the doubler..

Gilraine is right.

a doubler will double your chances of breaking a half ton axle. Get the 60 if you plan on wheeling it hard. If not, dont bother.

Just counter the increase risk by only using 1/2 throttle in 4:1! Thats my hope and a prayer. Ive got a 70HD and D44

I would also put a cooler on the 700R4 and then upgrade the rearend first. That will be the cheaper of the two axles. If you are only doing mud and light wheeling, the front will last for a while. Lots of mud guys keep the half ton fronts to save weight. If you decide to keep the front, you could get a semifloat 14 bolt that is 6 lug and not change rims. If you are going to go over a 35 inch tire, don't keep the half tons.