is the anything wrong with using a double acting ram for hydo asisted steering as most people use single ?

and how do you plan to attach this ram for hydro assist?

is the anything wrong with using a double acting ram for hydo asisted steering as most people use single ?

Is this the ram you posted in the other thread? That ram was not an "assist" ram. It was a full hydro unit. So no, you don't want to run that with a box. If I were you, knowing how you like to wheel, I would chrome the double ended ram and mount it to the front of the axle so people can see it. Don't worry about the tie rod being on the back. Then plum it so that it moves when you move your tires. Wahla, a hydro looking thingy!

This is like watching a train wreck In slow motion

if you meen it wont work or you cant then thats ok , but i would just like to know why not ?

if you meen it wont work or you cant then thats ok , but i would just like to know why not ?

It can work, just not as a power assist ram.

On second thought, you could attach a dildo to either end so when you turn the penis will point the way! :laughing:


I'm sorry, really, I just had to. :flipoff2:

Why not do a little research before you buy shit...it's obivous that you have absolutely no clue about what you've bought....




And I gotta ask how you acutally stop that big pos? It was next to impossible to stop mine safely on 37s. I had to rip out the abs system and plumb in a hydroboost brake system.

And I gotta ask how you acutally stop that big pos? It was next to impossible to stop mine safely on 37s. I had to rip out the abs system and plumb in a hydroboost brake system.


Just out of curiosity, why didn't the brakes work well? I would think that with the bigger toyota brakes it would have no problems stopping. I can lock up my 36's on my RRC, but that never had ABS to start with.

My brakes on my d2 were always soft. I put a 03 modulator on it before the swap and even with 33s they sucked ass. After the swap it was even worse so I got a 50 buck hydro boost rebuilt it and installed it. Now I can lock the 37s up. I also drilled out the output port on my ps pump to inscrease flow.

Why not do a little research before you buy shit...it's obivous that you have absolutely no clue about what you've bought....




And I gotta ask how you acutally stop that big pos? It was next to impossible to stop mine safely on 37s. I had to rip out the abs system and plumb in a hydroboost brake system.

my truck stops , fuckin quick too so maybee it's obivous that you have absolutely no clue about what you've bought.... maybee you should get a ford or somthing you donuts over there know about.

my truck stops , fuckin quick too so maybee it's obivous that you have absolutely no clue about what you've bought.... maybee you should get a ford or somthing you donuts over there know about.
You gotta love when goat fuckers get thier panties all
wadded up...so your saying that your stock d2 abs system can handle stopping those big gay tires. Please post up a video of that turd going from 35mpg to a deadstop. And we'll see if it can do it within a parking lot. This coming from the guy who brought a double ended steering ram and wants to use it for hydro assist. Do you even know what hdtroboost is? What a fucktard

i just so happen to have a video of just that .i was only on 40's then but ill post a link .
ill do a new one on the fourtynines just to please you though.
YouTube - MOV03742 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMS3RcWkGQE)
i think at some point you made a schoolboy error when bleeding your system on your d2 and i dont meen air in the lines .maybee you should check out dweb you tool

Please tell me that's a gentle stop not max braking :eek:

HOLY SHIT is that a panic stop! You really gonna kill somebody if it was

Can't see the video right now but I'll check it out when I can. Please do post up a panic stop on those 49s. I'd really like to see it. What really scary about your build is relying on stock systems not only to stop it, but for steering also. I just hope you don't kill anybody when you can't stop in time when your cruising at 70mph.

Still have explain how you ended up with the steerig ram? You bought it not knowing what it's intended purpose is so that proves that you really are fucking clueless and probably will end up killing yourself and others when it fails and you lose total control of that pos.

I'm done...go fuck a goat or sheep or whatever backward ass country fucks do over there.

my truck stops , fuckin quick too so maybee it's obivous that you have absolutely no clue about what you've bought.... maybee you should get a ford or somthing you donuts over there know about.

well you have no idea what quick is then. from what i have read in the mags the engine in our D2 has had more done than yours( VGT and water injection) and weighs a hell of alot less and i wouldnt call it quick quicker than standard yes but its not a quick.

surely its not about being quick if you have 49s on but is the clue not in the question? if you have to ask and cant find out what you need to know by using that ever so hard to use tool known as "google" should you really be trying this?

dont mean to be a dick rick but im 20 and know enough about this to build it myself, i havnt asked, just read what info i can find. :shaking:

that was just a normal stop.ive looked on google but i stiil dont know why you cant use a double ended ram for assist, just that no one does. ill do a fast stop and video it for you just as soon as ive fitted the crawl box linkcage this should be here monday so ill do the vid next week some time. http://www.howeperformance.com/pdfs/hydroboost-sb-tc-reverse.pdf i did find this though is it wrong?

that was just a normal stop.ive looked on google but i stiil dont know why you cant use a double ended ram for assist, just that no one does. ill do a fast stop and video it for you just as soon as ive fitted the crawl box linkcage this should be here monday so ill do the vid next week some time.

Mount the dildo ram first!!!

Mount the dildo ram first!!!
come on then , why is it wrong . if howe have pictures in there faq sections on how to do it wheres the problem?

Go for it...it seems you can look at a PDF of something and make it work. just put those mad fab skills you got to work and weld the fucker up. I'm just glad Im not anywhere near you or that pos because you will kill somebody in it.

And I do know how to bleed brakes fucktard, its just I couldn't get the truck to stop within in a safe distance with the abs system and vacuam system.

But obviuosly you don't care about the safety of yourself and others on the road around you...have fun with this build goatfucker

come on then , why is it wrong . if howe have pictures in there fag sections on how to do it wheres the problem?

:confused: What section?

come on then , why is it wrong . if howe have pictures in there faq sections on how to do it wheres the problem?

Yep its gotta work, it's on the Internet...explosives are safe too, when handled by someone with a fucking clue...

Go for it...it seems you can look at a PDF of something and make it work. just put those mad fab skills you got to work and weld the fucker up. I'm just glad Im not anywhere near you or that pos because you will kill somebody in it.

And I do know how to bleed brakes fucktard, its just I couldn't get the truck to stop within in a safe distance with the abs system and vacuam system.

But obviuosly you don't care about the safety of yourself and others on the road around you...have fun with this build goatfucker
for the record if its female,damp and has a pulse ill fuck it , good job your not neer me when ive been drivin a 18 weeler then . i definatly cant care about my own safty as ive been to iraq and fought in a war for oil.
but i still dont know why if a power steering compant have pics and info on how to do it why you say it wont work.

Go for it...you've obviuosly have done extensive research on this so get weldin'

this is about where Roxtar pops and tells us we have no proof that the truck is bad.....all talk some more shit and then the thread gets deleted like the "crawlerbox" thread :shaking:

delete it now and end our pain

serg

this is about where Roxtar pops and tells us we have no proof that the truck is bad.....all talk some more shit and then the thread gets deleted like the "crawlerbox" thread :shaking:

delete it now and end our pain

serg

it might aswell be fuckin deleted as no one has ansered the original question .

Why try to "assist" with a double ended ram? Just go full hydro. I doubt your truck passes road inspection anyways.

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

anyone for popcorn??

it might aswell be fuckin deleted as no one has ansered the original question .

Okay,

I'll tell you what. Against my better judgment I will help you. I saw the ram you posted in the other thread. Since I don't know if that is the ram in question for sure, I won't be a complete ass, but reserve the right later to do so.

The ram you bought and posted is a Full hydro unit. Take a look here:

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/cylinders-c-155.html

Look at the difference between a power assist ram and a full hydro. You will notice that even when external dimensions get close, the rod is a radically different diameter. If my memory serves me right, you need 1600 psi and 4gpm flow to get the performance out of a full hydro unit. That could be wrong, but it's close. If you try to run that and meet its requirement you will have to have that pressure AND enough to power the standard system. So you blow up your box, blow up your pump, if you can even manage to get a pump big enough.

Don't misunderstand; this is assuming that you want to get the performance out of the ram that you bought. If you don't want to and run much less pressure through the ram, it will still move. But I can't tell you how much it will move.

Now, here is why everyone is being a dick to you. You go out and by the prettiest ram you can. Then post pictures of it online, even showing the neato little spider on it, without a f-ing clue what the hell it is or used for. Not only that, but I am willing to bet that you’re going to try to run the ram off of a stock rover box and a stock rover pump. Then you’re going to tell us that it works awesome totally stock already.

If you noticed I stayed out of the crawlerbox thread entirely. You come across as a nice guy, just in over his head. But based on this, I am willing to bet that everything on that truck was picked because you thought it was cool, and nothing at all was done to help it go, stop, or turn.
The best thing to do is return the ram, and buy a boring old SE Assist ram and mount it to the existing tie rod. You can take it or leave it.

Cheers!




PS: Frankenrover, your steering and front end look badass. Nice job. What did you end up doing for a pump on the 300? That was tough for me.

Okay,

I'll tell you what. Against my better judgment I will help you. I saw the ram you posted in the other thread. Since I don't know if that is the ram in question for sure, I won't be a complete ass, but reserve the right later to do so.

The ram you bought and posted is a Full hydro unit. Take a look here:

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/cylinders-c-155.html

Look at the difference between a power assist ram and a full hydro. You will notice that even when external dimensions get close, the rod is a radically different diameter. If my memory serves me right, you need 1600 psi and 4gpm flow to get the performance out of a full hydro unit. That could be wrong, but it's close. If you try to run that and meet its requirement you will have to have that pressure AND enough to power the standard system. So you blow up your box, blow up your pump, if you can even manage to get a pump big enough.

Don't misunderstand; this is assuming that you want to get the performance out of the ram that you bought. If you don't want to and run much less pressure through the ram, it will still move. But I can't tell you how much it will move.

Now, here is why everyone is being a dick to you. You go out and by the prettiest ram you can. Then post pictures of it online, even showing the neato little spider on it, without a f-ing clue what the hell it is or used for. Not only that, but I am willing to bet that you’re going to try to run the ram off of a stock rover box and a stock rover pump. Then you’re going to tell us that it works awesome totally stock already.

If you noticed I stayed out of the crawlerbox thread entirely. You come across as a nice guy, just in over his head. But based on this, I am willing to bet that everything on that truck was picked because you thought it was cool, and nothing at all was done to help it go, stop, or turn.
The best thing to do is return the ram, and buy a boring old SE Assist ram and mount it to the existing tie rod. You can take it or leave it.

Cheers!




PS: Frankenrover, your steering and front end look badass. Nice job. What did you end up doing for a pump on the 300? That was tough for me.

thanks for your posative coments.
im alredy runing ram asist with a single cylinder , the problem i have is you get more lock one way than another . this is probably my fault . also i run two stering dampers but this is not enough to take the bounce out the steering . i just thaught that a double acting cylinder would be the way forward , i was planing to change the pump and fit a res/filter/cooler in one also.but there is nothing wrong in being cool. i probably am very misguided but there are no posative influences in the uk for building anything . we just do bad copies of american ideas. at least i was the first in the uk to do an axle swap on a d2. more people have followed since but i was the first.

Why try to "assist" with a double ended ram? Just go full hydro. I doubt your truck passes road inspection anyways.

my truck has pased road inspection two years running , its not the cops favrite truck but they cant bust me cause i have mot and insurance .the best bit was i could not get a mot in the regular garage because it was two big for the ramps so i had to go straight to the minstry of transport . who have pased it twice now.they have an extensive brake test on 4wd trucks which involves stoping from 30 and they have a meter to measure force .

thanks for your posative coments.
im alredy runing ram asist with a single cylinder , the problem i have is you get more lock one way than another . this is probably my fault . also i run two stering dampers but this is not enough to take the bounce out the steering . i just thaught that a double acting cylinder would be the way forward , i was planing to change the pump and fit a res/filter/cooler in one also.but there is nothing wrong in being cool. i probably am very misguided but there are no posative influences in the uk for building anything . we just do bad copies of american ideas. at least i was the first in the uk to do an axle swap on a d2. more people have followed since but i was the first.

Alright bud!

Now we are getting somewhere. If you had started with this you would not get the treatment you are getting. Honest questions usually get answered. In very short order, here is what is happening.

On the lock to lock issue, its your box. Again assuming stock box, because well, thats the way you do things. :p The discrepency is coming from the box and how you built the steering system. I had it and lived with it. But if you want to fix it, you can make sure the box is dead center lock to lock, and adjust the upper tie rod linkage to nominal with the tires straight. Then pull your steering wheel and put it back on straight. This is in no way caused by your assist ram.

On the "bumping", your experiencing what is called "bump steer" over here. Its usually caused bythe panhard rod and steering rod being at different angles. If you post up a picture of the front end, after we flame you for 5 or 6 posts, someone will tell you what is wrong and how to fix it. Then you can lose the dual steering dampeners. We lost those in the 80's, not long after "Back to the Future" one came out.

On the pump, cooler, reservior, ect. Thats all good and done properly will help the life of the pump, but the box is the weak link. If you decide one day to wheel. :flipoff2:

Better lucky good on the mot... Buck I'm running that ram on my d2 and with increasing the diameter on the output of the stock pump, I'm getting about 3.7 gpm. I did have a issue with flow when I installed the hydro boost but that from running a t connection (like in the diagram I got from psc) for return. When I plumbed it direct it's now working well.

As for our boy in the uk, sounds like you have some major bump steer problems and are trying to compensate for them with dual dampeners. So did you do the math to get the Ackerman angles correct?

your car is pushing the boundrys of legality in the uk. tyres protrude past the arches not legal on uk highways. and with full hydro it wont be legal either ie no mechanicle link.

but i agree with what has been said, you seem to justjump in, dont get me wrong not always a bad thing but when it comes to this, research should be done first. if you dont know ask.

could your lock problem not be that you diddnt centre the ram and wheels together when it was put on there?

also more to the point why dont you just do it? why do you care what others think? if YOU can see no problem with putting the ram on there as well as any other stuff you want to just do it. you only get new ideas and new setups aslong as people try. if you dont succeed with it take it as part of the learning curve.

hope that diddnt come over cuntish atall trying to be as constructive as possible kind of out of order were all shouting at you when there are bigger and gayer trucks in the uk.......some of those hiluxs' oh my god!

Far be it from me to defend this shiny POS ego trip, but...

The MOT is only a roadworthiness test, not a legality check. This is an important distinction. You can have a vehicle that is totally illegal, even a death trap, and it can pass an MOT because they are only checking certain things. If it's not in the book, they don't (indeed, can't by law) interfere with it or check it.

My truck has passed an MOT with tyres protruding well outside the arches despite it being illegal under construction & use regs, the same goes for full hydro steering. It's on your head if you have an accident, the insurance co will likely turn their backs and leave you well up shit creek.

The issue is if it should be on the road in the 1st place, which comes down to the SVA rules. However, our man here is unlikely to fall foul as the only real change that's gone on is the axle swap, and that's not enough points to require an SVA. It's just lucky for him the taste police aren't allowed to shoot on sight.

To be deadly serious for a moment, the tragic case of Mr Gresham & family in the UK has proved that modifications or repairs done badly can get you put away if the worst happens regardless of whether your vehicle is SVA-bait or fairly stock. You have to look at everything on your truck and ask yourself if it's really as good as it should be, if you killed someone because it failed could you stand up in court and say, hand on heart, that it was up to the job.

I'll give you a clue - "steering which turns more one way than the other" is a phrase unlikely to convince the prosecution that you are entirely competent. :flipoff2:

i fixed the lock problem yeaterday it even now , but i dont think the ram is long enough. for the record i fall well short of the criteria for needing a sva in the uk. as far as construction and use goes . it does not say that you have to have wheel in the arches of the truck. there is however a section on reduction of road spray.whick if it is pissing it down i may fall short of depends on the officers interpritation . i know this because i got busted and later no charges where brought after my police interview under caution also my truck was seized for a week then later releiced.it wasnt for the arches though the main reason was because an old woman in a honda decided to pull out under my rock slider and i acidently drove over here windscreen and crushed here car.the police inspected the car and had a list as long as your arm for mods but as was pointed out non of them ilegal.greshams ride had far more isues than a slight amount of differing steering lock , his truck was unstable and he new it . there was a vid floating round of it going through cones with the army . he new a part was completly fuckt and still put his family in the car anyway . they died for no reason . ive been a class 1 driver for the army rlc and had to drive all sorts of things that are fucked on the road like bedford 4 tonners they take 10 minutes for the drumbs to warm up so you can brake safly with peole in the back and other minor things , you have to use caution and drive steady but if you know somthing is complely fucked like your suspention why would you risk your familys life.also he got a lot of money donated to him after they died which he was spending on modifing another land rover . he desirved to do some time.back to the tech i think the double ended ram might work . i think the box needs uprating in some way as well as the pump to increse flow rate and preasure.

Short and sweet...

A double ended ram has different steering geometry than a steering tie rod so they cannot be used together. Search if you want more info, but trust me, a solid rod and a DE ram travel differently because the DE ram is fixed to the housing so the short links must travel a path that is totally different than the tie rod would.

If you put your drag link down to the far steering knuckle and used the Double ended ram as the tie-rod, you would have a couple issues, the biggest being that in order for the ram to be strong enough to be a pseudo tie-rod, the large diameter of the shaft would make the steering incredibly SLOW...the box would be drastically faster than the ram and it would be dangerous to drive.

And finally, there are two things you had better be DEAD FUCKING SERIOUS about and those are brakes and steering. Both are critical safety issues and if you're not an expert on them, don't make the mistake of thinking your skills are good enough. that'll get you killed and although that might be on the tragic side of things, what's far worse is you killing someone else. If you're not an expert, have someone that is do the work and learn what you can from them. Until you're VERY good at what you do when it comes to thses two areas, don't touch them. And if your rig doesn't steer and handle VERY WELL, and doesn't stop VERY WELL, then get off the road until you have it done right. That kind of thing isn't fun and games and is not to be taken lightly.

in the uk you have to have a mechanical link to the steering wheel from the wheels. but i want the benefits os the double ended ram . it must be possable .

in the uk you have to have a mechanical link to the steering wheel from the wheels. but i want the benefits os the double ended ram . it must be possable .

Rik

You spoke to me at Billing.

We ran a double ended ram with a steering box and drag link. This was purely to get our buggy through SVA and legal. Took quite a bit of setting up. Drag link was flat and really close to the ram axis. Box was internally machined so the stops matched up with the hydraulics.

It worked well although did suffer from roll steer.

However, we ran a 4 bolt Saginaw modified by Howe, a Howe matched ram and the high flow TT pump. It would steer just as fast as you could turn the wheel because of the pressure and flow.

I recall saying to you that if you wanted a DE ram you would need a bigger pump and a box that could handle it and the whole thing all matched up.

So, in his defence, Rik does ask questions and I said you need a whole system. He then went and bought something else but hey!

Tim

Rik, what's the problem with your existing setup? I presume you're running the Straight Forward Supplies type asist ram from the standard box? We're running this set up on my Brother-in-law's 110 on 404s and 44" tyres without a problem. I can understand you'd start to stretch this to it's limits in extreme challenge type comps, but it should work very well. Can I ask where your take-offs from the box are?

Regarding your brakes though, I see you're running the Straight Forward Supplies land rover caliper based kit, right? It's a great idea to keep all the piston sizes suitable for your existing ABS etc, but it will be really stretched with the extra inertia of the 49"s. When Tim designed that set up he was really thinking of 39" shod challenge trucks, not full bodied, accesorized discoveries on 49"s.

The set up does avoid the problems Mongosd2 and I have had with Toyota LC axles, but I would really think about upgrading to something waaay more powerful - just because it passes the brake test doesn't mean it's suitable to bring the thing to a stop from 70 mph. That test only means the brakes are even and of a minimum power, you need to ask yourself whether passing the minimum standard is good enough.

Finally, regarding steering wobble, I've had this problem with my TLC axled Range Rover and have found that it is bush wear on the Panhard rod. With those tyres and that lift the slightest amount of play will cause the axle to slap side to side making it feel like steering wobble. All the dampers in the world wont solve the problem because the drag link stays still, it's the axle that is moving.

I kept my truck off the road for 6 months until got the brakes and steering not only build right, but working 100% correctly. This site is a unbelievable source of information and you can learn from it. We all must at some point admit that part of a project more than likely is going to be beyond one's current skill set.

Trying not to bash you Rik, but what gives you the idea that you can engineer this? Can it be done, yes, but can YOU do it, think about it. Your having problems with your current set up that you didn't fix, but simple cover up with dual dampeners...

The stock pump that came with the 300 with a few tweaks from KC and it works fine with the orbital we used. I am not confident it will last indefinitely, so I've got a psc pump in the box in the garage. As far as output and power goes it does fine with 42's.

I'm surprised that in between the bashing, no one suggested contacting the supplier of the ram cylinder.

Quite often, I will call and speak with folks at the vendor who are application engineers or the like.

I catch Hell for the amount of research I do, but I also try to limit my embarassment (especially on Pirate!)

The stock pump that came with the 300 with a few tweaks from KC and it works fine with the orbital we used. I am not confident it will last indefinitely, so I've got a psc pump in the box in the garage. As far as output and power goes it does fine with 42's.

Huh,

Interesting. I couldn't get the stock pump to work. Even when I sent it to PSC they couldn't get enough out of it to make it work properly. But, because of the reverse rotation pump, even the PSC pump puts out just enough to be suitable, while not awesome. I think it has to do with all the 10an fittings for the go fast. I may go back to 8an so the volume demand isn't so great. I carry a spare pump like you.

OP,

If you post up pics of your front end we can all tell you exactly where the bump steer is coming from and you can just return the double ended ram. You have no good reason to run it.

Rik, i looked at your website and in the one pic I found, it looks like the angle of the panhard and the tie rod are not close to even. I dont know much about ram setups, but it doesnt look lke it is geometrically right either.

it looks like the angle of the panhard and the tie rod are not close to even.

They need to run pretty close to the same angle and be pretty close to the same length in order to keep bumpsteer to a minimum. If they are THE SAME, then you won't have any bump-steer but you will get some side-to side movement as the suspension travels (this is the case with EVERY panhard).

heres a pic of the front if anyone knows where ive gone wrong.
http://www.monsterdiscovery.com/rik1.jpg
im still keen on fitting the double ended ram though , i think with the pump and box reworked it is possable. i had a chat with a guy called nigel at lasupertrucks in the uk he does alot of work on toyotas with big lifts and full size monstertrucks , he said he has done hydro asist alot of times with double ended rams for trucks used on the road in the uk . if any one else has any ideas or sujestions on how to make it work id be most gratfull.the steering rod and the panhard rod are at the same angle.

heres a pic of the front if anyone knows where ive gone wrong.
http://www.monsterdiscovery.com/rik1.jpg
im still keen on fitting the double ended ram though , i think with the pump and box reworked it is possable. i had a chat with a guy called nigel at lasupertrucks in the uk he does alot of work on toyotas with big lifts and full size monstertrucks , he said he has done hydro asist alot of times with double ended rams for trucks used on the road in the uk . if any one else has any ideas or sujestions on how to make it work id be most gratfull.the steering rod and the panhard rod are at the same angle.

Take a picture from the front straight ahead for us. That picture doesn't really help.

Has anyone even told you the difference between a double ended ram and a SE ram? What do you think will be the difference for you? I have a feeling that you don't even know why you think you want it.

when you tern the steering , it turns quicker one way than it does the other . i think this is because there is more fluid used to push it out than bring it in.because of the space the rod takes up in the cylinder. with a double ended ram i hope for it to be an even speed.the new psc ram ive got does look kinda cool though.

So what did you change to fix the lock problem? How is the power assist plumbed now? And please a better picture showing the relationship of the panhard to to the draglink.

The lock problem was the arm on the box I removed it and turn the steering put it back on it was one position out .The asist is plumbed from the box that was drilled and tapped

It looks to me that the panhard rod and tie rod form an X rather than being roughly parallel at standard ride height.

I'm not a suspension/steering engineer, never even played one at work, but from what I've seen others do, it seems as though either lifting the axle bracket, or lowering the frame bracket will be necessary to reduce bump steer.

Again, there are others more knowledgeable (and they won't hesitate to correct me), but I doubt you'll ever be able to get rid of it all and I wonder if going full hydro won't exacerbate the problem, rather than eliminate it.

This is one of those times when I'm glad that my design specifications are more modest and realistic.

stock d2 box? and how did you plumb the return? ant additional cooling in line? are all the brackets stock for the panhard and stock pitman arm?

when you tern the steering , it turns quicker one way than it does the other . i think this is because there is more fluid used to push it out than bring it in.because of the space the rod takes up in the cylinder. with a double ended ram i hope for it to be an even speed.the new psc ram ive got does look kinda cool though.

Okay,

Listen, please, because this is the last time that I am going to help you. I have been patient and put some time into actually getting you information. I told you the lock to lock problem was with your box and linkage. You listened, it's fixed congrats. The bumpsteer is undoubtedly caused by your axle trying to move against your steering. If you won’t post a good pic, then do some research. It’s simple to fix.

Now, for the last time, your perceived steering problem is not caused by your ram. I ran your setup for years. I did not have that problem. Guess what else? I run a SE FULL HYDRO system now and mine turns the same speed right and left. How can that be? If you try to set up a DE FULL HYDRO RAM with your mechanical steering system you will fuck it up. I don’t know how else I can say this. It won’t work.

Fix your steering. If you want, you can even chrome the ram you have now so you feel like a big boy when you’re done.

Now, after all this, you still want to do this all for looks, fuck it, fine. Look at my sig, click on the PSC link. Stay up late one night and call PSC. Talk with Lance. Tell him what you are up to and trying to do. He is arguably the smartest person that you can talk to on this. Don’t you dare tell him that I told you to call. He won’t forgive me for that.

I’m done with trying to help. You want to make all your mistakes on your own. Go right ahead, just stop asking questions if you’re not going to listen to the advice. I mean Dustin from Redbull came in here and told you not to do it and why. For fuck sakes.

i emailed psc ,they said its not straight forward but it can be done.

i emailed psc ,they said its not straight forward but it can be done.

Great. Have fun. Post pics of the wreck.

i emailed psc ,they said its not straight forward but it can be done.

You know, even the best of the best of the best of the best of rockcrawlers, and desert racers don't do it...not a SINGLE ONE OF THEM. If it was even a remotely decent solution, they would, even just a couple...they don't. Heck, not even the bad racers and crawlers do it! :laughing:

SURE, it can be done, but there's nothing people won't laugh at you more than to take perfectly good money and throw it towards a system that will perform worse. Even if you had the smarts and the skills to do this in a good looking and best performing way, my cheapo, SIMPLE, SE ram assist will drive circles around your ultra fancy, expensive, and over-engineered DE assist system.

Think about that for a minute...my $500 COMPLETE system will totally school your fancy system even when it's the best you can make it. And knowing FOR SURE that it wont be the best you can make it because you will not be engineering an entire vehicle around the system, it'll turn out far worse than an already under-performing system.

YES, it can be done...ANYTHING can be done. But NO, it should NOT be done as there are far better solutions.

As for my experience, I have a non-assist vehicle that even with hundreds of lbs of steel shot in the front tires, running 5 psi, 37 diameter x 13.50 wide, stickey compound, that I can turn single handed.

I have another rig with SE Ram assist with 3/8" ram for higher speed running.

Another with SE Ram assist 1/2" shaft for crawling

Another with SE Full Hydro for crawling AND racing

Another with DE ram front, SE ram rear.

Another with DE Rams front and rear...sold it actually...it lives in Russia now.

Steering is something I'm VERY serious about as my job relies on high performance. Be smart and get this idea out of your head. It may sound cool, but COOL DOES NOT MEAN GOOD.

Next, that photo does not show us the drag link to panhard relationship. We need a shot from the front that shows the full length and angles of both.

One thing I learned from Pirate is that when guy's like Dustin say its a stupid fucking idea, then it probably is...

One thing I learned from Pirate is that when guy's like Dustin say its a stupid fucking idea, then it probably is...

What do you mean 'probably', surely if guys like Dustin say is a stupid fucking idea then it IS, not probably.

When Dustin came in here I was a little sick into my mouth with excitement.

What I was trying to say to you earlier Rik is we are running the same axles, the same box, the same pump and same SE ram as you with slightly smaller tyres and the thing works great (and it actually wheels). I think I could work out that you had drilled your box for the assist fittings but where have you drilled it, show us pictures, because it can make a difference on those boxes.

The comments about drag link and panhard are also critical - this could well be your problem, so do yourself a favour post some proper pics front on and these guys will tell you what to change.

SURE, it can be done, but there's nothing people won't laugh at you more than to take perfectly good money and throw it

Have you seen Rik's rig? :flipoff2:

He could use that DE ram, go full hydro, and stay road legal. Just that he would have to put up with a 20mph speed limit - everywhere.

Judging from some of the comments on here, some might think that is not a bad thing.