Will an Ford Knuckle with an attached spindle (non unit bearing) bolt up to the new unit bearing style inner C ? Or are the inner c`s and ball joints different from spindle style to unit bearing style ?

Obviously what I`d like to do is use a newer unit bearing axle and convert it to the old style spindle/hub combination. Hopefully with only replacing from the knuckles and such out.
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no - the inner c are diffrent -

you could buy ( ouch $$ ) a free spin kit from dynatrac or solid axle

wich would be cheaper than swaping the inner c / knuckles out

Why anti unit bearing?? Is this gonna be a heavy tow rig or a trail rig/buggy?

If its the later, save your money and just run the unit bearings. The comp guys are all running them now and they beat the piss out of them.

I will say... that they bring the SUCK, under a heavy truck though.

Why anti unit bearing?? Is this gonna be a heavy tow rig or a trail rig/buggy?

If its the later, save your money and just run the unit bearings. The comp guys are all running them now and they beat the piss out of them.

I will say... that they bring the SUCK, under a heavy truck though.

How do the unit bearings hold up in water and mud? I'm guessing not as good as a normal bearing that can be cleaned and regreased.

I think jsawjuste is from my neck of the woods and we have more mud/water than rocks here.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=813909

this thread was not good enough?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=813909

this thread was not good enough?

No he didn't get the answers he wanted.

Why anti unit bearing?? Is this gonna be a heavy tow rig or a trail rig/buggy?

If its the later, save your money and just run the unit bearings. The comp guys are all running them now and they beat the piss out of them.

I will say... that they bring the SUCK, under a heavy truck though.

Hell I`ll run babbit bearings if they will work. The key here is to be able to run a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern. I know how to do that with a spindle setup but not a unit bearing.

no - the inner c are diffrent -

you could buy ( ouch $$ ) a free spin kit from dynatrac or solid axle

wich would be cheaper than swaping the inner c / knuckles out

I did look up ball joint part numbers. They are the same for 96 and 2003. But that don`t mean they C`s are the same. Just trying whatever I can at this point.

Have to look at this "free spin" kit to see if they have 5 on 5.5. Same goes for the Spidertrax parts. They offer a 5 on 5.5 unit bearing hub but all the ad says is that it is based on F450 stuff.

So saying that. Is D50/D60 knuckles the same as F450 ? If so then perhaps the Spider stuff would work.

Bottom line to all this. I have found a smoking deal on a 2003 front axle from an F250. But it could be a 50 or a 60. Won`t know till I see it on Monday. In ether case I want to learn what it is gonna take to run 5 on 5.5.

Even if it turns out to be a 50. The larger ring gear and 1 ton outers will be a big step above the 44 I am running now.

I thought branick and others were selling new unit bearings redrilled to 5x5.5 that would be bolt ons to the axle in question

I thought branick and others were selling new unit bearings redrilled to 5x5.5 that would be bolt ons to the axle in question

Branik Motorsports and Solid Axle machine F-450 UBH's to your choice of pattern. Even 5x5.5. Branik is way cheaper.

I thought branick and others were selling new unit bearings redrilled to 5x5.5 that would be bolt ons to the axle in question

Branik Motorsports and Solid Axle machine F-450 UBH's to your choice of pattern. Even 5x5.5. Branik is way cheaper.

This kind of information is what make the PBB wrecking crew so good. :smokin:

I`ll give Branik a call and see what they are up to. Solid is OK but I`d rather deal with the little guys. The ones who wheel not just push parts.

Yep Branik does it and at a resonable price.

Should`nt 250/350/450 UB`s be the same ? At least as far as mount to the knuckle ? They are use a 1 ton outer.

Thanks guys but keep `em coming

You're going to an AWFUL lot of trouble to put beef under your rig. Why the hell are you wanting to stay 5x5.5? Is it because you want to keep your 15" rims & a common bolt pattern in the jeep community? If so, you really need to look at your back spacing vs brake clearance & the headaches you're fixing to bite into.





It will be cheaper & less headaches (long run) to get both the D50(60) & Sterling 10.5 out of the F250, redrill both axles to 8x6.5", and put some good 16" wheels & tires on there.

You're going to an AWFUL lot of trouble to put beef under your rig. Why the hell are you wanting to stay 5x5.5? Is it because you want to keep your 15" rims & a common bolt pattern in the jeep community? If so, you really need to look at your back spacing vs brake clearance & the headaches you're fixing to bite into.





It will be cheaper & less headaches (long run) to get both the D50(60) & Sterling 10.5 out of the F250, redrill both axles to 8x6.5", and put some good 16" wheels & tires on there.


Can`t argue with what you are saying. But 2 sets of tires. 2 sets of wheels. Set of BL`s plus the off road trailer wheels and tires are all the same. 4 inch BS with a 15 inch diameter 5 on 5.5. All 37`s. It sucks but I have way to much invested to change out now.

I might have to do some grinding and/or use 1/2 calipers. But the Jeep is set up with hydroboost so braking power should not be an issue. Just fitting it all in a 15 inch wheel is the hurt.



The rear is simple. HP60 with Moser 7750 Ford ends. Tapered rollers bearings and Explorer disc`s and parking brake. 35 spline semi float chromo`s.

not 100% sure, but I'm pretty sure 15" weels won't fit over the calipers. My 16's barely clear.