So we got my HP 60s bolted in today and I discovered something I hadn't thought about. The hoop on the stock rear sway bar that goes over the pinion isn't deep enough to clear over the pinion and bolt up at the stock locations, which is how I had the brackets set up. I hope that makes sense.

I'm not up for doing something like a rear Antirock or something like that at this time. Does anybody make a sway bar with a hoop that is deep enough to bolt up to the stock location and clear over the pinion?

have a metal shop bend you one if you don't have a bender yourself

Questions that need to be answered...

Do you have pics?

Are we talking about a front axle or a rear axle, you said rear sway bar so I'm "Assuming" rear axle?

Why do you need to run a rear sway bar, whats wrong with your front one?

Why on God's green earth did you buy/build a HP rear 60?

If you can answer 3 of the 4 or so we should be good.

Questions that need to be answered...

Do you have pics?
No, I haven't taken any pics yet.
Are we talking about a front axle or a rear axle, you said rear sway bar so I'm "Assuming" rear axle?
Yes, I am referring to my rear axle.
Why do you need to run a rear sway bar, whats wrong with your front one?
Nothing wrong with the front sway bar. I'm running a Sway Loc in front. I would think the Jeep would be much more stable on the road with the rear sway bar installed. Granted, I've not driven it without it. It will be a while before I have everything else done so I can get back on the road and trails.
Why on God's green earth did you buy/build a HP rear 60?
Two reasons. The first is that I'm tired of replacing axles shafts and/or gears after every time out. The second is that I wanted to run bigger tires. I am running a HP 60 in front, too.
If you can answer 3 of the 4 or so we should be good.

Thanks.

run a rear anti-rock! and a front anti-rock for that matter.

:smokin:

Thanks.

think he's refering to the fact that you said HP60, as in high pinion...

i havent run a rear sway bar for ever now. You dont need it, just dont try and drive like you are in a Porsche and you will be ok

think he's refering to the fact that you said HP60, as in high pinion...

Oh. Not sure I know what the relevance the 'why' has to my question...

Oh. Not sure I know what the relevance the 'why' has to my question...

The HP60 is weaker in the rear than a standard d60. Your driving on the coast side of the gears.

I would suggest drive it like it is, when you decide that it sucks on the street buy a currie antirock for the rear.

So we got my HP 60s bolted in today and I discovered something I hadn't thought about. The hoop on the stock rear sway bar that goes over the pinion isn't deep enough to clear over the pinion and bolt up at the stock locations, which is how I had the brackets set up. I hope that makes sense.

I'm not up for doing something like a rear Antirock or something like that at this time. Does anybody make a sway bar with a hoop that is deep enough to bolt up to the stock location and clear over the pinion?

First off, don't listen to the HP 60 detractors. Yes, you are driving on the coast side, but unless you're stomping sticky 40's in comps on big rocks and doing stupid shit, it's more than plenty of rear axle for the vast majority of sane folks.

Also, unless you've stretched the crap out of the back of your rig, it's even more stupid to swap in any low pinion rear axle due to driveshaft angles.

That said, take your rear sway bar and flip it over. That will usually get you out of trouble.

Maybe take a look at this sway bar if your stock one wont work like Mr. Blaine suggested.
http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=FTS-750676

If you still cant get your stocker to work or this one either look at getting a Currie Anti-Rock or check out the Genright.

http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=SWB1003

Yes as stated its a HP60 in the rear is a weaker axle. Its like putting a low pinion 44 or 30 in the front vs the HP versions. Now you may be wondering what does this have to do with me? Well the answer is if you start using larger tires and the deeper you go into the gearing you run a higher chance of stripping your ring gear or more so ripping apart the smaller pinion. Just food for thought that I happened to see. I'm gonna challenge the "Unless you are stomping stickies" qoute. Not because it wrong, but why do people buy 60s? To run 40s and try stupid shit with LESS chance of breaking. And the longer he stretches his axle out the less severe his angles would be. I don't think anybody runs HP axles in the rear anymore except for a short period of time when it was a new idea worth trying to see if it was worth it or not.

Back to your oringal question. Have you run down the road without a rear sway bar yet? Somebody also pointed out trying a steel shop with a bender, have you gone that route yet?

First off, don't listen to the HP 60 detractors. Yes, you are driving on the coast side, but unless you're stomping sticky 40's in comps on big rocks and doing stupid shit, it's more than plenty of rear axle for the vast majority of sane folks.

Also, unless you've stretched the crap out of the back of your rig, it's even more stupid to swap in any low pinion rear axle due to driveshaft angles.

That said, take your rear sway bar and flip it over. That will usually get you out of trouble.

Thanks, mrblaine. I wondered about flipping the swat bar over, but wasn't sure whether it would still work properly. I suppose, then, that I would remove it when wheeling to avoid dragging it on the rocks, then?

I will be running 37" tires on my Jeep and no bigger. I may stretch it a few inches in the future, back that is not definite. I'm not looking to make this a comp rig or anything like that. I was running a 44/30 set up and have had to replace axle shafts or gears after each of the last three trips that I've been on. My goal in going to the HP 60s was to put that stuff behind me, and I beleive that the new set-up will accomplish this for me.

Maybe take a look at this sway bar if your stock one wont work like Mr. Blaine suggested.
http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=FTS-750676

Thanks for the links UCTJ. I had come across something on the Full Traction sway bar yesterday when I was poking around, but then went to their website and didn't see it listed.

If you still cant get your stocker to work or this one either look at getting a Currie Anti-Rock or check out the Genright.

http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=SWB1003

Yes as stated its a HP60 in the rear is a weaker axle. Its like putting a low pinion 44 or 30 in the front vs the HP versions. Now you may be wondering what does this have to do with me? Well the answer is if you start using larger tires and the deeper you go into the gearing you run a higher chance of stripping your ring gear or more so ripping apart the smaller pinion. Just food for thought that I happened to see. I'm gonna challenge the "Unless you are stomping stickies" qoute. Not because it wrong, but why do people buy 60s? To run 40s and try stupid shit with LESS chance of breaking. And the longer he stretches his axle out the less severe his angles would be. I don't think anybody runs HP axles in the rear anymore except for a short period of time when it was a new idea worth trying to see if it was worth it or not.

Back to your oringal question. Have you run down the road without a rear sway bar yet? Somebody also pointed out trying a steel shop with a bender, have you gone that route yet?

I appreciate the insight, Black Sheep. I have not yet tried either of these routes. I just got the axles bolted up yesterday, and I have a fair amount of work to do yet before driving it - driveshafts, brakes, etc.

Thanks again, everyone for your responses.

Don't sweat running HP 60's...they'll be just fine...ask the tons of competitors that run them without issues. Sure, there's a chance you'll break a ring gear every now and then but MOST people will never have that issue. If you do, then it's time to upgrade the gearset. If you break it a bunch of times, then something else entrely. But again, those guys are very few and far between and flat out, you can break pretty much anything.

And Black Sheep...I'm sorry but you're LP 44 won't hold up to the same abuse as my HP 60...especially when it comes to the locker.

For the swaybar, interesting idea Blaine...it would be interesting to see how much ground clearance you still have. Have you done this?

For the swaybar, interesting idea Blaine...it would be interesting to see how much ground clearance you still have. Have you done this?

We do it all the time running HP 9's in the rear. The bend in the swaybar usually is above the bottom of the pumpkin, so the worst you ever do is push it back into the bolts that hold the third in.

Nice idea.

I ran a stock sway bar (d44) on my hp60 rear axle for over 3 seasons.
It went over the top of the pumpkin. Worked fine. It polished the top of the pr60 quite nicely, however.

Y I'm gonna challenge the "Unless you are stomping stickies" qoute. Not because it wrong, but why do people buy 60s? To run 40s and try stupid shit with LESS chance of breaking. And the longer he stretches his axle out the less severe his angles would be. I don't think anybody runs HP axles in the rear anymore except for a short period of time when it was a new idea worth trying to see if it was worth it or not.



I know this is the newbie section, but gimme a break. New idea to see if it is worth it or not?

:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing: :laughing::laughing:

We do it all the time running HP 9's in the rear. The bend in the swaybar usually is above the bottom of the pumpkin, so the worst you ever do is push it back into the bolts that hold the third in.

Worked for me...
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e333/knuckelhead/rearflex16.jpg