This is my first s10 build i have always had jeeps.
i found an 1988 s10 that was a drag truck it is an extended cab had all the v8 motor mounts in it and a fuel cell with a holley fuel pump and braided stainless lines has auto meter gauges and tach for 350 bucks such a good deal i couldnt pass it up and that is why i am building an s10 now..haha

these are the goodies i have spent the last 3 years collecting

dodge dana 60 front and dana 70 rear 4.88 gears
sbc 350 put an edelbrock performer cam and intake edelbrock gear drive timing set set of roller rockers msd billet distributor msd offroad box and coil
h1 wheels gonna use my 38.5 rear cut boggers and front swamper tsl's
i have a turbo 400 and np 205

i hopefully can get this built in 1 month it will be close but i think i will be able to do it if i force my self to work on it at least for a few hours every night i plan on taking off some time from work once more of my parts start showing up.
pulling the cab off i had to have a way to lift it off alone it worked good except it still took 2 people cause the ceiling was too low with the chain fall
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http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0806.jpg

got motor and tranny and transfer case installed on frame motor mounts from moroso worked out good just need to figure out a transfercase mount s10 frames suck they are completely different on both sides other than that for the first night of work i think i got a lot completed
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0807.jpg
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i need some ideas and pics of some transfercase mounts in an s10 with a np205 thanks for the help

I could be wrong, but it looks like your engine is going to be in the cab a few inches unless I'm just seeing it wrong.

good eye.... Im thinking youre right, about 2 more inches of setback than it could use without some metal massaging.

as for a crossmember, i used 2x2 square tubing on one, seemed to work well... or you could put a flat flange off of that for some flexible rubber mounts and pucks.

you both are correct....good eye it will be in the cab about 2 inches. whoever had the truck before me put the mounts there and they already did some metal work on the cab to the firewall. only thing i can guess is... and i dont know much about drag racing...is they wanted to move the weight toward the back. but hopefullly it will still fit i guess i will find out when i set the cab back on.. they had a sbc in this truck before so i guess as long as my distributor isn't too much different than the one they used it should fit.

when u did your crossmember how did you avoid the front driveshaft, did you just put a big loop in it ? i have the crossmember that came with the transfercase i was thinking of modifying it ...

The engine crossmember should probably be ditched altogether....you're not gonna have driveshaft issues so much as steering linkage issues. Just put a piece of 2x4 to cap off the front of frame, like what was done on my '95 build. Oh, yea, and if you don't already have one (and you're gonna run assist or regular steering), get yourself an Astro steering box.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/rufneck53/Build17.jpg

i plan on puting the axle just forward of the crossmember and i will be running a double ram i bought the sniper fab front dana 60 axle truss with the ram mount for high steer but if the crossmember hits my links its gonna come out

Talking about the Astro box, I didn’t change my stock box (2000 s-10 Blazer), I just add the pitman arm from the Astro box to my stock box and it doesn’t seem to be having any problems. The HP44 is about 4” forward and I am running a cross over steering arm. A buddy running a 89’ s-10 Blazer did the same and he has not had any problems. As for my crossmember I running the stock crossmember. I will get some pics of it put up tonight on my build thread.

Looks like a good start to me. You got the right parts list going :grinpimp:


Is there no bushing in the motormounts?


Looks like you need to finish the green jeep in the background:flipoff2:

no bushings in motor mounts solid mounts.. the green jeep is a buddy of mine that claimed he was gonna build it like 2 or 3 years ago and there it sits in my way............still........... now he is selling/parting it out hopefully it is gone real soon

I have some pics from when mine still had 1/2 of a 203 in it.
I ended up having to lower it little to clear the high angle CV that went in later.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/02-08-08_1827.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/02-08-08_1826.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd52/DieselS10/02-08-08_1836.jpg

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installed the sniperfab front truss today

upper and lower link mounts showed up today waiting on the link material to get here. later this week i will hopefully have them installed on the axle for the front!!!

installed the link mounts on the front axle tonight.....what a struggle.... on the short axle side i had to modify the link mount.. it was not designed for the axle that i have, somehow i missed it when i was designing. oh well after some cutting and grinding i got it to fit. thing that sucks is most of it is welded to the cast and not to the axle tube.

the axle tube on a dually front end is not long enough to accomadate a link mount with 22 degree angle for a flex joint from ballistic fab. well, hopefully the axle will be under the truck soon. so if you are ever ordering link mounts check to make sure they fit between the pumpkin and the inner C before you order, even if it was a straight link it would not have fit, guess i should have stuck with heim joints on all the links but i decided to go with ballistic fab flex joints on the lowers on the axles

i finally have more money to spend on this thing. need to buy shocks what kind do ya'll think i should buy? i priced a set of ori's.....wow very expensive don't think they are for this build..... i am leaning toward the ballistic fab hybrid shocks anyone used them yet? will they support this truck? or should i just stick with air shocks?

f-o-a.com

f-o-a.com

i have looked at these before and considering them they seem like a good deal considerably cheaper than any of the other brands and i have read good reviews about them

ordered my rear truss from sniperfab today and high steer arms so hopefully they will come next week or the week after and i can get this thing moving again
ordered hydro ram from trail gear and some rock rings from copperhead fab. ordered more ballistic joints and brackets!!!!

is tubing the rear worth the extra work? i am considering just leaving the frame and building a flat bed. someone needs to convince me the extra work is really worth the extra money in tube and all the extra work to build it

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0843.jpg
delivery showed up today!!!!!!!! its like christmas

Hope the ram was less than $200 That I paid for mine at surplus center. Also clevis ends suck because they are crazy expensive. You gotta check out the alternatives.

Your carpet looks like it has worms.

more parts showed up this week
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0844.jpg
sniper fab high steer
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0845.jpg
sniper fab dana 70 rear truss
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0846.jpg
ruff stuff heims
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0847.jpg
ballistic fab weld on disc brake brackets
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0848.jpg
more ballistic fab joints
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0849.jpg
ballistic link brackets
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0851.jpg
ballistic fab upper link brackets
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0852.jpg
copperhead fab rock rings

started making my front end lower links i am using ballistic fab joints on the lowers with 2 inch .25 dom links and ballistic fab link mounts on the axle and frame for the lowers
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all the washers on the bolts are temporary till i get the right length bolts home depot didnt sell grade 8 5/8 bolts so i bought these till i get to a store that sells them :)

do you really think that square tube crossmember will support the longitudinal stress of hitting something with the front axle?

call me paranoid, but just because odin did it once and beefed the shit out of it doesnt mean itll hold up well.

Looks like you got some good parts going in, couple questions though,

Are you going to brace the crossmember rearward?
Adding gussets from the link tabs to the crossmember?
I know you said 2" x .250 wall DOM, but what's it sleeved over?

its sleeved over 1.5 .25 dom i already had the joints and tube inserts and decided to go bigger on the link pipe. and yes i am gonna brace the crossmember once i am happy with the front suspension setup i didn't want to have to cut out a bunch of stuff if it didn't end up working out and that box tube is crazy expensive dont want to waste it if i dont have to.

What's the shank on the forged Ballistic Joints then? If it's 3/4" that would honestly have me worried.

What's the shank on the forged Ballistic Joints then? If it's 3/4" that would honestly have me worried.

oh, hell... 3/4" will hold... we all know it will.....

ok, lets be realistic... you lie, and I'll swear to it.

why wouldnt 3/4 hold?

It has nothing to do with holding. It will bend with any kind of abuse. On an upper it would be fine, but do you honestly believe that a 3/4" shank will not bend when the entire weight of your truck comes crashing down on your links? I'm no engineer, so I won't bother trying to give you numbers, but I've seen Suzukis and moon buggys with bent 1" shanks, I'll bet you're near double the weight.

Personally I wouldn't trust anything smaller than 1-1/4" on a lower, on ANY bodied rig, or large buggy.

oh, hell... 3/4" will hold... we all know it will.....

ok, lets be realistic... you lie, and I'll swear to it.


I could lie........but we both know that's not quite my style, just like I will never build something lighter duty when it costs no more, and involves no more time to go overkill. I don't even know why they make these with a 3/4" shank:shaking:

well its too late i already bought them if i break them then next ones will be bigger we'll just have to see. hopefully they dont break i have always had 3/4 heims on uppers and lowers and never had a problem with them breaking. i appreciate the opinions through the building process ...

i am waiting to hear back from ballistic i am gonna run the 1.25 shanks on the rear lowers if ballistic will exchange 2 of the joints for me and cancel my order for the other 2 joints i ordered the other day. you guys convinced me to change them. for the front lowers it is too late to turn back i have already used the 4 joints and i wouldnt expect them to take them back plus i already sleeved the pipe and i would be out too much money to completely change the front links, so i am gonna run the 3/4 shanks on the front till i have problems and hopefully i dont; the kind of riding i do they should be fine but i understand the concerns ya'll have so i will change the rears while i still can. this is why i am posting this build on pirate is to get feedback and other points of view. thanks for the opinions

now on to my next issue..........i messed up when i put my lower link axle mounts on and i welded them solid before i realized what i did. my lower mounts are parrallel with the pinion so my lower links are slightly above the tube center line will this cause me any major problems? and before everyone gets excited ....no i did not use the 4 link calculator after hours and hours of reading on this site i decided to build my suspension where the links fit and dont run into anything. i know most wont agree with me but everything i read on here i think this is a better route for me. after all this is not build that i am expecting awards for precision fabrication i just want a ride that is gonna reliably get me down the trails..............in other words i dont want the usual pirate 4x4 lecture bla bla bla if you know what i mean. i am no professional fabricator by any means.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0867.jpg
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in the last pic above you can see my lower axle link mount when i welded them i messed up and put them parallel with the pinion how bad is this gonna screw me? should i wait to see if it affects me or should i try to move them? i am leaning toward waiting any suggestions?

That's awesome, I'll be checking up on this for the whole progress.

in the last pic above you can see my lower axle link mount when i welded them i messed up and put them parallel with the pinion how bad is this gonna screw me? should i wait to see if it affects me or should i try to move them? i am leaning toward waiting any suggestions?

In that location you will have more ground clearance, but less control (your links are now closer together, top to bottom). I would rotate them down so that the mounting hole is lower than the center of the axle (I would put it about 1" to 1.5" lower than the center)

In that location you will have more ground clearance, but less control (your links are now closer together, top to bottom). I would rotate them down so that the mounting hole is lower than the center of the axle (I would put it about 1" to 1.5" lower than the center)

the only problem with moving it is it will be a huge pain in the a$$ is it gonna be enough that i will even notice?

that caster angle looks pretty bad.

that caster angle looks pretty bad.

what is a good pinion angle?

theres a difference between caster angle and pinion angle.

to make the RIGHT caster angle and pinion angle, you may have to cut and turn the "c"s on the housing, and weld them back in place with the pinion pointing where you want it.

what is the maximum caster angle before i would have steering issue's?

Ideal is 4-6* of positive caster. That's rear of center. You have more like 15* or negative caster. Your truck starts to drive like a shopping cart around 0*.

where i am struggling is how do i set it up right? i can move my upper links anyway i need to to move the pinion up or down but i am worried about my driveshaft angle, i have already decided i am gonna need to purchase a driveshaft from high angle or tom woods that is double cv. do i set up the links with the axle at full bump or do i set it up at ride height? i have read on here that people do it both ways. which is better right now it is at ride height. if i put the axle so the top of my truss is level front to back that would be where the factory position would be (pinion angle and caster angle).

put the rear axle together this weekend put axle truss from sniper fab on and disc brakes took a lot longer than i expected but i guess when beer is involved everything takes a little longer with all the breaks.lol.... i have to get pics to post..

looking to make some more progress on the truck this weekend i have some more progress pics to upload.......
coming soon

where i am struggling is how do i set it up right? i can move my upper links anyway i need to to move the pinion up or down but i am worried about my driveshaft angle, i have already decided i am gonna need to purchase a driveshaft from high angle or tom woods that is double cv. do i set up the links with the axle at full bump or do i set it up at ride height? i have read on here that people do it both ways. which is better right now it is at ride height. if i put the axle so the top of my truss is level front to back that would be where the factory position would be (pinion angle and caster angle).

you need to cut and turn your inner c's to correct your caster angle and leave your pinion where it is to have a good drive shaft angle.

where i am struggling is how do i set it up right? i can move my upper links anyway i need to to move the pinion up or down but i am worried about my driveshaft angle, i have already decided i am gonna need to purchase a driveshaft from high angle or tom woods that is double cv. do i set up the links with the axle at full bump or do i set it up at ride height? i have read on here that people do it both ways. which is better right now it is at ride height. if i put the axle so the top of my truss is level front to back that would be where the factory position would be (pinion angle and caster angle).

Set your pinion angle first. Then cut your c's off and rotate them so you have the right caster. That is the ONLY way to do it right. I won't lie, its not an easy job.

ok just noticed that your jeep in the back ground has the trany cooler mounted behind the rad. wtf.

ok just noticed that your jeep in the back ground has the trany cooler mounted behind the rad. wtf.

nice isnt it thats how it came lol....... that was a jeep my buddy traded for a jug of refrigerant it sat in my garage for 3 years then he sold it to some guy for 300 bucks...i am glad to see it gone

little more update. with the holidays and a disaster at work i haven't had a whole lot of time to work on it. over the last week i worked on it a few nights and finished the links and the mounts tied it all into the frame turned out good in my opinion.
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0889.jpg
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got it all welded in and added a few more tubes on the sides so there isnt a corner to hang up on rocks and logs would have taken pics but beer made me forget..digging the new welder i bought a miller 212 back in the summer, i hated it and considered taking it back all my welds looked like i never welded before i am no expert welder by anymeans but these welds were shitty turns out the roll of wire i bought was shit, i changed the spool of wire as a last resort and now it welds awesome. who would have thought a brand new spool of wire would be ruined right out of the box..oh well i am used to the struggle.

What brand of wire? Was it old? If it had any rust on it, that will cause a hell of a headache. Usually don't see that too much with solid wire, though. Flux-cored, yes, that happens often.




If that were my truck, I would box the frame in around where you have your crossmember mounted. You wouldn't need to remove anything you've already done, just add a plate that welds to the inner side of the frame to help distribute the stress more.

What brand of wire? Was it old? If it had any rust on it, that will cause a hell of a headache. Usually don't see that too much with solid wire, though. Flux-cored, yes, that happens often.




If that were my truck, I would box the frame in around where you have your crossmember mounted. You wouldn't need to remove anything you've already done, just add a plate that welds to the inner side of the frame to help distribute the stress more.

i plan on it i just dont want to do it till i know i am done tying in the box tube i am getting tired of cutting welds to make changes.....i leave things tacked as long as i can but everything has to be welded eventually to move on but always seems i decide to go back and change something or add a new tube.

i'd have to recheck the brand when i go back to my shop i bought it at a welding shop in cincinnati suck i had to throw away a 40lb spool of wire i hardly used it was new to me but who knows how long it sat on a shelf

think it is time to set the cab on running out of stuff to do till i have the cab on it i need to make my nerfbars and bed kinda hard to do without the cab on it. just need to round up enough people to help me lift it on there

got the cab on the truck this weekend 3 of us tried to pick up the cab and move it but it was too heavy so we made a cart with some huge casters i had and put the cab on it and rolled it around to the garage the frame is in. then we hung a chain fall from a beam and picked up the cab. we then put the frame on the cart and rolled the cart under the cab and lowered it on it was a huge pain in the ass but we dont have any sore backs!
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i have a 16 gal fuel cell. do you guys think i should go bigger problem is i am running out of money and i'd hate to buy something i already have at this point with my money situation i am gonna have to start using some parts i already have instead of buying parts i want to use i figure i can always go back and add a bigger one later. and i ordered my runflats today from 406yj and some wheel centers from copperhead fab. instead of paying big $$$ for wheel spacers in the rear i am gonna just recenter two of my wheels to widen the rear to match the front width. i dont own a spare anyways so for now i will just have two different backspaced wheels. i just ordered some 2x3 box tube to do my sliders so hopefully tonight i will get that done i have kinda been slacking on working on it got a little lazy with all the snow and cold....lol

i also ordered so prints to build a tube bender i found so i will hopefully get it built in the next couple weeks it is air over hydraulic and uses pro-tool dies the prints were 17.99 and i bought some machined parts from him for 60 bucks and the only other expense is the box tube which i have and the ram from harbour freight and the die but i figured if the bender sucks i can put the ram on my engine hoist and i will buy a protool bender so i havent wasted a bunch of money just mostly time i will post pics and let you know how it works when it is done will probably be a few weeks till its done.

got a little more done over the past couple weeks
took my tires off their wheels and look what i found.....that is mud from the last time the tire came off the bead i was in a mud hole....perfectly round mud balls
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0914.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0913.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0917.jpg

here are some more
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0919.jpg
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decided to go with the rubber runflats from 406yj.....man do they make these wheels and tires heavy. got the rock sliders built getting ready to build a fuel tank out of a refrigerant recovery tank i got from work i have a plastic fuel cell but it is only like 15 gallons and i don't think it will be big enough. so i'll see how this tank works out for me.
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0933.jpg

filled in the holes where the heater core and fan were
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0930.jpg
and made the rear crossmember out of some box tube
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0929.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0927.jpg

any new updates on this?

i will have to get some new pics i have been working on it a little bit kinda ran out of money there for a little while i did get some coilovers for the front and a northwest fab doubler havent put either on it yet i moved so i dont have a garage anymore and the garage it is at now is 30 minutes away so i dont get to work on it as much but i did paint the frame and finish weld everything i am gonna order the tube for the exo cage here in the next couple weeks. i will update as soon as i make any real progress. now that i am married i have to do creative financing to get new parts......lol

got a little more done over the past couple weeks
took my tires off their wheels and look what i found.....that is mud from the last time the tire came off the bead i was in a mud hole....perfectly round mud balls
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0914.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0913.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_0917.jpg


ha ha that is cool

i need some ideas and pics of some transfercase mounts in an s10 with a np205 thanks for the help

my transcase is a dodge 205 i used 2"x2"1/4 wall and made this halo/mount

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=8773&id=100001442834286

will have a bunch of pics soon ordered tons of parts over the last week or two. bought fox coilovers found a triple pass alum radiator for 199.00 bought my psc power steering pump propane setup from got propane found it on ebay never used for half price. got optima red top and mount from ruffstuff specialties doubler from northwest fab gotta still order the triple stick shifter i have installed all my msd offroad stuff rev limiter high vibration coil and offroad 6al ordered my autometer trans gauge already had the water temp and oil just need to mount them now. have to mount my winters sidewinder shifter bought flowmaster y pipe and offroad muffler, i got all the motor accessories mounted waiting on the psc pump to get the belts i still have to convert my alternator to a 1 wire still need to mount the mojave heater in the cab and ordered the tubing for the cage not sure what i am gonna do about driveshafts yet gonna see how much money i have left and go from there

have gotten a lot done lately exocage is almost done just have to add some more angles to tie stuff together build the shock mounts then lift it off and weld it all up here are some pics
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_1027.jpg
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So as wide as that exo is you could have built a full size truck??

So as wide as that exo is you could have built a full size truck??
pretty much. and as much as he cut those tires he could have run tractor tires? not trying to say its not a nasty truck, i just think other things could have been utilized with better or the same results, for cheaper

where i ride they have to be built like that or goodbye glass there are tons of trees and all the trails are tight. as for the tires being cut it gets really muddy in northern kentucky if you dont run cut boggers then you better have tractors if its wet.

couple more pics
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/284964_2014830768742_1183013683_31851943_7200764_s .jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/284563_2024405088094_1183013683_31866117_7977340_s .jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/216740_2047602068004_1183013683_31897405_5971147_s .jpg

First ride harlen this weekend

that looks a lil heavy, but i wanna see it in action

did really well in harlen had a few loose ends show up that i needed to fix things i missed cause i ran out of time before we went to harlen loose transcooler line couple of bolts i missed and needed to tighten stupid stuff like that it kept over heating since i didnt put a catch can on the radiator put a tube into an anti freeze bottle with a hole in the cap and strap'd it in worked great we went up mason jar no problems just took it slow getting used to driving it only major mishap was i ran out of propane on the way back to camp i need a third tank for a whole day of riding without stopping but over all it performed well

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_1042.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb264/hank52554/IMG_1039.jpg