What would be the best way to make a good solid winch mount on a garage floor?
Concrete is getting poured soon, still have time to install something through the ground then pour over it...

Dig deeper hole for thicker cement?
Re-enforce it with something at the opposite angle?
I-Beam?

Or is a winch mount bolted to concrete slab good enough?

I have seen several guys put I beams in their slab and think its a great idea. More than likely your going to be winching things into the shop that roll on their own. I would put a sonotube with a winch mount in it and call it good. Might even put several with receiver hitch stock in them so you can use it for other things besides winching.

Receiver hitch just ends up getting full of crap. It will be a square hole full of water and muck before you even finish building your shop.

I'd look to mount a peice of plate with threaded nuts welded to the back? but even those get full.

You can have bolts sticking out.. but then they can get in the way.

I tried like crazy to think of a solution before I poured, and ended up doing nothing.

My buddy bolted a peice of chain to an old rim and dropped that in before pouring.

My best idea was to throw some peices of steel in the ground.. that come just flush..

Polish them with a flapper pad and then weld stuff to the floor. Cut it lose.

Gee, maybe, just maybe buy some chain pots that are actually made for this application?

I've got six of them for next spring when I hope to pour a new floor in the shop.

Gee, maybe, just maybe buy some chain pots that are actually made for this application?

I've got six of them for next spring when I hope to pour a new floor in the shop.

yup.


http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/images/PRODUCT/medium/11538.gif (http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/champ-floor-anchor-pot-1600-p-11538.aspx)

That should work, thanks!

Are these made to pull "up" on?
Will not break cement from a horizontal pull?

I just drilled my existing garage floor for two 7/16's Red Head concrete anchors that are threaded inside. I have an 8" piece of a leaf spring with two holes to bolt to the anchors and welded a D ring to the leaf spring. I use this to winch non running vehicles into the garage with a snatch block attached to the D-ring.

Holes do get filled with stuff, but easily vacumed or just leave the bolts in there if you don't mind the bolt heads sticking up 1/4" or so from the floor.

What I am going to do is take a piece of plate 1/2" about 6" by 30" bent at a ninety degree angle with the length long enough to extend 4" to 6"above the floor with the holes drilled all ready then I could attach what I wanted . There would no doubt be a piece of rebar or two going perpendicular to the plate

The dimensions are rough and just off the top of my head I think what I figured was closer to 4' then 30" It is a idea I got from a friend a long time ago.






This goes almost at the back wall out of the way till you need to use it to pull something in the garage :grinpimp:

I just needed an anchor in my garage and just drilled some holes and used some sleeve bolts to put down a boltable D-ring. The bolts were pretty small and shallow and were rated for like 3k pounds each side load. I think the D-ring was rated for 4500lbs. More than enough to help me pull something rolling up the driveway.

i had to bolt a large generator to the concrete floor in my shed, and used 1/2" concrete sleeve anchors. 8 of them 4" long, to hold the gen in place while running. after 1/2 hour of running, the gen had ratteled all 8 bolts out of the floor. they were installed carefully as per the directions........

Bury some threaded "J" bolts in the rear footer. Strategically placed between the studs. After shop is built lay some 1/2" plate on top of the mud sill and nut it down. Weld up your "D" rings. Heck, you can have pull points all across the back wall and NUTTIN on that nice new floor. Or even fab up a foot rail like in a bar, then have a beer at the end of the day.

i had to bolt a large generator to the concrete floor in my shed, and used 1/2" concrete sleeve anchors. 8 of them 4" long, to hold the gen in place while running. after 1/2 hour of running, the gen had ratteled all 8 bolts out of the floor. they were installed carefully as per the directions........

I think for a high vibration application, epoxy-set bolts would work.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f56/chevyman_57/Nissan%20SAS/IMG_2392.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f56/chevyman_57/Nissan%20SAS/IMG_2393.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f56/chevyman_57/Nissan%20SAS/IMG_2394.jpg

4 1/2" anchors, 3/4" plate (happened to be cut to a good enough size), 1 1/4" acme thread nut that was threaded wrong welded on.

Personally, I'd just drill the floor for anchors and leave the bolts in there when not in use. I have 4 bolts in the mottle of my shop floor for my old JD2 bender stand, and I have managed just fine to work around them for 7 or 8 years now. Sure, I occasionally get a jack or creeper hung up on them, but it's not that big of a deal and is easy to avoid if you pay attention.

Another vote for chain pots!!!
Body shops use them for anchoring cars when doing frame work.
If you are putting in a new floor, that is the best way to go. With the lids that come with them, they are flush with the floor.

Are these made to pull "up" on?
Will not break cement from a horizontal pull?

The ones that I bought have a square plate about 6" square with three stakes that are stuck in the ground and the re-bar or mat run around them so that they can be used to pull in any direction.

I cant believe you guys dont know about these:

http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/mechanical/titen-hd

They are lag bolts for concrete. They can be installed with a ratched by hand if you blow all the dust out of the holes. and YES they do work as good as they are advertised. They are also ICC2006 compliant which means they can sustain rated loads with a crack going directly through the hole.

make up a plate thats 1'x1', weld on a d-ring and bolt this to your floor. Its strong or in some cases stronger than wedge bolts or "red heads" and it's removable!

You could mount your bender on the floor and remove it at the end of the weekend.

In a construction application thats structural, Simpson only advises using the same anchor 3 times but since this isnt going to be structural, id bet you could get away with more.

Im on jobs everyday where these are in use. Hotels to houses. they are pretty dang cool and not too expensive either.

They come in 1/4 to 3/4 diameters.

Edit: the web page says they are 3/8" to 3/4" the 1/4s are in the "mini" line and are basically a heavy tapcon.

Airport mooring eyes: link (http://www.neenahfoundry.com/literature/NFCatalog14/NFCatalog14%20192.pdf) Second item down. They sit flush with the concrete and the holes in the webs allow you to run rebar through them to really lock them down. They're designed to hold down airplanes at airports in severe weather, so I'd say they're pretty strong.

They were like $17 each last time I ordered them(about 8 months ago). You can get them directly from Neenah. www.neenahfoundry.com

I'm dragging crap up my driveway, too, and wanted to put some anchors in my 6-month old concrete (so pretty!), so I searched a bit... there are multiple good threads in the Shop and Tools Forum, i figured I'd pull 'em together:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=895529
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=539386
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=388085
...but probably the best thread was in General4x4: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=191685

I'm swinging past Home Depot shortly to snag some large drop-in anchors. I may also stop in at a local climbing gear store to snag something like this that I can use intermittently:
http://www.fixeusa.com/images/products/hangers/013+038_220x266.gif
I know there are cheaper ways to do this, but those are SLICK.

When I can get down to the local fastener store, I should be able to find socket-head cap screws or flat-head socket cap screws that fit flush our just below. Maybe I'll get kicky and throw an O-ring in, I like to over-design simple things to keep my attention away from the bigger projects which are stalled in the shop. :rolleyes:

Randii

For the light duty your alluding to, drop in threaded anchors if you need to floor flush when you done. Or bolt a d-ring as shown by nissancrawler (doesn't need to be suck overkill).

Or get a HF 5K "bumper mount" receiver hitch, bolt it upside down to the floor using whatever anchor method makes the most sense to you. Then use a portable receiver mount winch when you need to.

Easy and cheap, and you now have a portable winch for other uses.

This is what the concrete guys use in their panels for embeds to weld to. The plate is about 1", I believe so they can weld to it without spalling out the concrete behind it from the heat....

You could make one similar and then weld whatever you want to it or bolt it up prior. I would thicken up the concrete in this area with some extra rebar going back & forth, maybe a pad, 2'x2'x 10"deep.

Nothing would suck more than cracking a brand new slab!

http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i353/AbrasiveTrader/concreteembed.jpg

I just used receiver tube sunken in concrete with a spiderweb of 3/4 rebar at an angle and flat, about 2' out from the tube...concrete guy laughed at me and said well it shouldn't move....

The zinc-plated 1/2-inch drop-in anchors from Home Depot are rated at 5480lbs ultimate tension in 4000psi concrete and 4580lbs ultimate shear in 4000psi concrete. Not the overkill I wanted, but if they pull out, I suppose I can always go bigger.

Randii