Need some info./assistance with an '06 Rubicon, particularly re the front diff. locker.

A friend has replaced a damaged front D44 in a Rubi with a gently used one, and
the locker doesn't seem to be operating.... A few questions:


- There is what is obviously an engagement-indicator switch that threads into the
diff. housing. Although it appears that the underside of the head is engaged by
something, can I assume that it can simply be inserted and tightening without
requiring any action from inside the diff. housing?

- The locker is obviously air-operated. The line runs back to a pair of either
solenoid-actuated units, or air pumps? under the floor at the driver's seat area.
WHAT are these? The one switch on the center panel apparently actuates
both of them.... The switch is of momentary action. Just how should the
switch operate? i.e. a brief up or down, or hold-until-?? The amber light(s) on
the switch do not work, so the fuse is suspect. The identical unit from the rear
diff. was switched-out, with no change. The pre-accident state of the associated
components is unknown, so a logical chain of diagnostics is obviously needed.


Thanks very much for your input and assistance!!

unless somebody changed the locker over to an arb, it is an electric locker. if all of the stock switches are still being used then i would assume it is the stock locker. as for the actual problem i know nothing about rubi's. if i wanted a capable jeep i would spend the 20k+ on a older jeep and do 15k worth of upgrades...

unless somebody changed the locker over to an arb, it is an electric locker. if all of the stock switches are still being used then i would assume it is the stock locker. as for the actual problem i know nothing about rubi's. if i wanted a capable jeep i would spend the 20k+ on a older jeep and do 15k worth of upgrades...

wrong... 07 was the first year of the electric lockers... the 06 still uses air actuated lockers, just not nearly as high PSI as ARB. I believe the Rubi lockers use like 5 PSI where as ARBs use like 90ish PSI...

- There is what is obviously an engagement-indicator switch that threads into the
diff. housing. Although it appears that the underside of the head is engaged by
something, can I assume that it can simply be inserted and tightening without
requiring any action from inside the diff. housing?

I could be wrong on this, but I believe that anything involving the actuator switch must be done with the diff out of the axle. If it needs to be replaced, you need to pull the diff out. I need to replace mine, but I'm not gonna.

- The locker is obviously air-operated. The line runs back to a pair of either
solenoid-actuated units, or air pumps? under the floor at the driver's seat area.
WHAT are these? The one switch on the center panel apparently actuates
both of them.... The switch is of momentary action. Just how should the
switch operate? i.e. a brief up or down, or hold-until-?? The amber light(s) on
the switch do not work, so the fuse is suspect. The identical unit from the rear
diff. was switched-out, with no change. The pre-accident state of the associated
components is unknown, so a logical chain of diagnostics is obviously needed.

Those are air pumps, one for the front, one for the back. The switch works only in 4Lo, by pushing down once, rear locks, again, front locks, again and the front will unlock. To undo the rear or all lockers, lift the switch up. Make sure the pumps are operating first before you do anything, they should run @ 1 second or less to lock. If they run longer you have a leak. Usually the hose from the axle housing to the diff. The dash indicators should then flash, when they are solid the axle is locked. My dash indicators hardly ever stop flashing when I have my axles "locked", but locked they are.

Thanks for the replies....


Yes, definitely air-actuated.

So.......RE the 'plunger' position indicator, what we now really need to know is whether or not it can be installed with the head in the correct position to catch the plate and, thus, provide proper position indicating.......or, if it really cannot be installed properly without removing some internals. Perhaps, with the locker in the actuated position, it could be installed with proper effect??



Again, thanks much for any help on this!