So after much searching iv'e located an old "tombstone"Lincoln Idealarc AC/DC arc welder.Been wanting one for quite awhile.Had one in my welding class in high school and my teacher always raved about what a great machine it was.I get to try before I buy so is there anything I should look for when I check it out,known trouble areas specific to the machine or just general things to look at before buying n old buzzbox.Iv'e seen some converted to Tig.Does that render the AC arc welder inoperable or can you switch back and forth?I know everyone uses mig nowadays but this is just one of those must own things for me.Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.I have taken several welding classes but most focused on the mig.I can lay a bead but not set up the machine and that's about the extent of my knowledge of arc welding.

There is nothing really special with these. As long as it works in AC and DC I do not think there is really anything that can go wrong. Maybe just make sure the cables are in good condition?

I have heard of people converting to TIG and I do not see why it could not be used for arc after the conversion.

Should be a good box to learn with.

Depending upon what kind/style of HF box you get you can switch back and forth from AC tig with a HF box, scratch start DC tig and stick by rearranging the leads and where they plug into etc.

IE AC tig with a HF box the HF box plugs into both leads on the welding machine and your torch and work leads plug into the HF box.

Inspect the leads, wires, and clamps is all I have to offer. Transformer based machines are pretty sturdy, not much to go bad with them other than the above. It probably has a fan inside, listen for that to start too.

:edit: I used an old Miller stick machine as the basis for a tig. Built a new chassis, collected parts, and have ac, dc+, dc-, tig ac, and tig dc-. High frequency is there for the tig functions. Later I'm planning on some timer circuits for post flow, HF start, and a foot pedal.

Inspect the leads, wires, and clamps is all I have to offer. Transformer based machines are pretty sturdy, not much to go bad with them other than the above. It probably has a fan inside, listen for that to start too.

:edit: I used an old Miller stick machine as the basis for a tig. Built a new chassis, collected parts, and have ac, dc+, dc-, tig ac, and tig dc-. High frequency is there for the tig functions. Later I'm planning on some timer circuits for post flow, HF start, and a foot pedal.

What he said! Be careful to pay attention to the leads as they are Hella expensive to replace.

How do I test the ac and dc functions? ac? is all I ever used.I am being given the chance to fire her up and lay some beads.What material/? would I use to test the dc?

Just run some beads at both settings. If it works it works. The Ideal Arcs are much bigger than the tombstones people see now at Home Depot. They are great welders.

I saw a site recently where a few guys did an open source tig with IGBT's that sits on top of any stick machine and it scalable. Even has HF start and has the usual tig niceties like AC balance.

I saw a site recently where a few guys did an open source tig with IGBT's that sits on top of any stick machine and it scalable. Even has HF start and has the usual tig niceties like AC balance.

What makes you think you can throw out teasers like that without a link? This is Pirate!:flipoff2:

Damn right! A link is mandatory.Adding Tig capabilities would rock.Opens up a whole bunch of possibilities :D

http://www3.telus.net/public/a5a26316/TIG_Welder.html

I found this link, not sure if this was the one he was talking about.

Enjoy!

#1 with a welder that old Look at the insulation on the transformer although these are a great machine . This is the first place to look unless your gonna put this in the living room. If it fails it is a boat anchor

It is a good guess you can`t lay your hands on a clamp on DC amp meter to see if you have a full range of output control so you need to start in the middle and go up and down . you should be able to tell by the arc if you have control.

Make sure the polarity switch is free and you have output in AC, DC positive and negative . Make sure the current control also is free and works smooth

The input cable as well as the welding leads could be dry rotted and need replaced.

You didn`t give a price so perhaps it is a free be if your buying don`t pay a whole lot.

good luck:grinpimp:

How do I test the ac and dc functions? ac? is all I ever used.I am being given the chance to fire her up and lay some beads.What material/? would I use to test the dc?

Materials:
Buy a case of *cold* domestic beer for bartering material and put it in a big brown grocery bag. With brown bag in hand, visit your local ironworks just before quitting time and ask if you can trade some "aluminum scrap" for a few of their 1/4"+ steel scraps and a small handful of 1/8" 7018 out of their oven. Be sure to bring a welding glove along, that rod will be hot! I wouldn't even charge if somebody asked nicely.

6010 and 7018 are two most common rods used with DC. 7018 will work better for what you want to do - see how the used machine acts on DC.

Setup:
1/8" 7018 usually runs from 100-130 amps depending on machine, operator preference, and weld position. (lower end of range is for vertical, higher end for flat). If general machine condition looks safe and power is good to go, Put on your gear and set the welder somewhere around 120 making sure it's on DCRP, i.e. reverse polarity/ stinger is +. Try a few simple flat beads on your scrap. If you've never stick welded with DC before you'll love it - very smooth compared to AC and much less spatter.

Results:
If it welds like this (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9598852&postcount=52), buy it! :p

Results:
If it welds like this (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9598852&postcount=52), buy it! :p

All 7018, right? I wish I had some pics of the 6010 and 6011 passes I made on practice plate. They weren't smooth like 7018 but not birdshit, either.

Link to my tig build http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/showthread.php?t=34074

http://www3.telus.net/public/a5a26316/TIG_Welder.html

I found this link, not sure if this was the one he was talking about.

Enjoy!

That's the one. Thanks.

Awesome guys,thanks. The asking price is $200 and it's at a fabrication shop and they said they had scrap for me to try it out on.Now i'll have a better idea of what i'm looking for when I check it out.

Awesome guys,thanks. The asking price is $200 and it's at a fabrication shop and they said they had scrap for me to try it out on.Now i'll have a better idea of what i'm looking for when I check it out.

I hope it's in fantastic condition, does the AC/DC thing and has a hot blonde to load it for you.

I paid $75 for mine and got 50 lbs of rod with it.

How much is this unit new?

I hope it's in fantastic condition, does the AC/DC thing and has a hot blonde to load it for you.

I paid $75 for mine and got 50 lbs of rod with it.

How much is this unit new?

I think you're confusing an old Idealarc with the much more common AC/DC 225. Very different machines.

If it welds like this (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9598852&postcount=52), buy it! :p

Not exactly a fair comparison using the XMT. :D