i have a line on a 07 f250 king ranch. it has 40K on the ticker. cage offroad lift kit, rear airbags.


looks like the truck got a boo boo on the right side... like it fell into a ditch or something.


a ditch full of water........:homer:


so.


heres what i checked out:
the passenger doors have sand in the pockets and door handles inside. i know the water got that deep on the side.

the right side is going to need a fender, repaint the right front door, replace the right side mirror, cowl plastic, antenna, windshield, *maybe* paintless dent the right rear and buff the shit out of it (if not work and repaint) and the right side bedside worked and repainted.


it has a knarly dent in the roofline near the glass that i prolly wont even think of fixing. its about the size of a golfball.

the left side is just scuffed for the most part. nothing a decent buffer and some time cant knock out (im pretty sure)

all the marks you see are paint stick marks from insurance marking the damage.

the interior was pulled, carpet/seats/etc and is all thrown back in there. ill have to reinstall the interior and most likely find all the seat bolts and shit to get it back in.

no rust on the dash cage.
no rust on the truck.
the drivers panel under the steering wheel was yanked out... some wires were loose.

do you think that it was stolen? isnt that where the antitheft shit is?
the drivers window was(looks like it was) broken out. im assuming it was a theft. it has new glass in it now.

it has a new front bumper in the bed, that big ugly bumper in the front will leave.

the line on the tailgate is where the water got to. i can see the water line in the back of the cab, and it reflects that line accurately.

i pulled the air intake. no signs of water in there, and the turbo shows no water in there (rust).
transmission and engine oil show no signs of water. i couldnt check the tcase or axles.

it has a full 4" banks turbo back exhaust on it. im unsure if the engine runs though.... batterys were dead.


so PBB, is it worth it? how much would you pay for this truck?
KBB shows this truck to be about 30K private party, 24 trade in, and 35 dealer.
of course its going to have a salvage title, i dont care about that.

With a little time it sounds like it could be a real nice truck. I would say if it runs good, no more than 14K for it. But I don't know???:confused:

see thats the thing. i cant start it to check if it runs. im taking a gamble that the oil on the dipstick is telling me no issues.

see thats the thing. i cant start it to check if it runs. im taking a gamble that the oil on the dipstick is telling me no issues.

Will they let you bring a battery and drop it in to see if it runs?
Of course buying the unknown should be cheaper.
One battery should fire it up, my 2000 has had one go bad twice and you don't notice it till it gets cold.

I would not buy it unless I could start it. How much are they asking? Water damage sucks in vehicles. It seems as though the "demons" never leave the electrical. It would have to be cheap.

Will they let you bring a battery and drop it in to see if it runs?
Of course buying the unknown should be cheaper.
One battery should fire it up, my 2000 has had one go bad twice and you don't notice it till it gets cold.


i wish. thats not how insurance auctions and places like copart.com like that "work"...... you buy based on what you can inspect with no tools in your hands.

I would not buy it unless I could start it. How much are they asking? Water damage sucks in vehicles. It seems as though the "demons" never leave the electrical. It would have to be cheap.

yea, but if you notice what "was" underwater isnt super signifigant. the right side axles, the right side doors, and maybe the blower motor in the engine bay? i doubt the transmission or tcase got dunked sufficiantly, and the engine oil isnt abnormally high (water sitting @ the bottom) or milky. same with the trans level.
all interior connectors i could see had no corrosion. this was fresh water too, not salt water.

mainly what is on the right side of the engine bay that i need to worry about? im powerstroke retarded.
everything else seems like it wasnt touched.
i think the front tie rod is bent or tweaked as well. antisway bar mount bushing is pulled out if its mount too.... prolly when getting pulled out



so...... ?
im REALLY debating this.
more trucks are out there, but this one already is lifted, and really doesnt need much.
im *assuming* they totalled the truck for the following reasons:

the fender and hood are beyond repair. (replace/paint/blend)
the doors and bedsides on the right side would need to be repaired/painted/blended.
the roof would have to be replaced to fix the BONK in it. (R&R, paint/blend)
the left side would be getting painted/blended as well.

so basically i think the truck was totalled because of that. am i sure? im not, but thats what im assuming. no one told me any of this, just my knowlage of body work and how insurance adjusters work in my dealership when they come and look @ a car.

heres where the water line is.


the green represents about where the water line was that i remember.

the blue represents the minimum and maximum of where that water line could have gone.


remember the airbox is on the left side of the engine bay, and it was one of those severe duty filters.

the filter minder wasnt maxed out (sucking water)
the fiter wasnt wet,
no water/stains/rust/poo poo on the turbo inlet that i could see peering down the intake tube.

So it sounds like you are answering your own question? You might have to just clean the contacts on the window switches and maybe replace a motor or two. Nothing to much on the passenger anyway electrical wise. If it goes cheap then buy it. If it starts getting high (in the mid to upper teens) then let it go. Good luck.

Securilock is a 2008+ thing in the SD trucks to the best of my knowledge, the ECM is between the driver side battery and the fender and the FICM is above the drivers side cylinder head as well so these are likely not damaged.

In good shape with a valid warranty and not needing assembly it is likely a 28-29k truck so I would have a hard time paying over 14k for it as it sits without seeing it running.

This is a great resource for information as well:
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-08.php

If you want to send me the vin# I can run it through Ford Thursday night at work to see if it's been flagged through Ford, I'll also be able to see any repair history.

8-10k would be the absoloute most I would consider, as has been mentioned before there is not too much electrical on the passengers side. Insurance companies are fearful of any water damage especially in the passenger's compartment with electircal gremlins.

The water would have settled down to the bottom and likely not show on a dipstick just do not try to start it until you have drained the oil and replaced it as a precaution.

I would think that it may go for 5-8 at an insurance auction since it has a salvage title you are not going to have too many used car dealers looking to buy it, maybe a few body shops, and salvage yards. Since the engine & trans are the big ticket items in that truck you will not have too many salvage yards taking a huge gamble unless it is going rather cheap.

well i put an offer in @ 10k. we'll see if they bite.



i dont think there is any if at all water in the oil, since the oil level is not past the full mark.....

i really think they totalled it for the body work since the roof needed to be replaced for the dents near the windshield.

fawk, on 35-38" tall tires, it will be too tall to see the dents anyways :smokin:

Spending all those You tube profits already?

Go for it and flip it if it gets too messy

:laughing:

yup, im ballin on a budget :flipoff2:


i wanted a truck that could be fixed up nice, and not break the bank. im sure as hell not getting car payments again, after paying off everyone and anything i owed on.


that said, if i DO buy it, the ford/cruiser/axles/motorcycle will be going on a fire sale :smokin:

DUDE.....

DO NOT PAY 10K for that truck.

do your homework. you can do much better then that on a PSD

for a water damage salvage title I would pay no more then 6k for that truck from an auction.

go get your homework on then there partner :dustin:


where am i going to find a 40K mile old 07 for less than 10K, even with a salvage title?

yeh at what these trucks go for used. i would offer 5k if they wont let me start it. there is way to much money wrapped in in a PSD to not kno if it starts before i buy it

I personally woudl ratehr have a high mileage no salvage title PSD than a low mileage unknown. I.e. I have a 01 dually with about 130K miles (barely broken in for a diesel, 4x4), loaded, for a pretty sweet deal a couple of years ago, and there are plenty of PS's around right now. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v256/geberhard/2-1.jpg

I would pas on a rig you will most likely be uising for tow and wanting something dependable. A rig that you cna not even start and that has been watered has a lot of unknowns you do not want to find out when you are heading to the trail with your rig in a trailer ;)

ahhh, a "pond lunker," fixed plenty of those, don't be scared, if the engine didn't injest water, all the electronics (if they were needed) can be got for $800 at the wrecking yard, the worst one we've done had water marks up to the turbo, drained all fluids, replaced all modules and switches(in dash, etc..) did new carpet and cleaned up the seats, let her dry out good and fired right up, had 15k on it, and never had any issues...
if they will let u, pop the hood and see if it will crank (unplug the yellow wire w/green stripe near blower motor, touch it to the pos. batt post) if it cranks normally, ur good son.... as far as pricing, thats not my specialty...

they wont move off of their asking price of 12,500.

i told them to pass.

i would pay 10, but not 12,500 for that.

thanks for the tip, ill try that next time, if the batteries have juice.

with the way the economy is going, you will find some serious deals by new year