So I've wanted to build one of these for a while and instead of working on my Scout, I decided to finially put it together. I wanted it height adjustable so that it could be lowered down to fit in the garage, yet raised up to get the higher stuff. It's wide enough to straddle the gooseneck, truck, etc. It works great for taking the top off the JK.

The uprights are 3' long reciever tubes that were purchased for another project that we never started. All of the materials I had sitting around except for the casters and hoist winch.

On to the picts....

So I've wanted to build one of these for a while and instead of working on my Scout, I decided to finially put it together. I wanted it height adjustable so that it could be lowered down to fit in the garage, yet raised up to get the higher stuff. It's wide enough to straddle the gooseneck, truck, etc. It works great for taking the top off the JK.

The uprights are 3' long reciever tubes that were purchased for another project that we never started. All of the materials I had sitting around except for the casters and hoist winch.

On to the picts....

nice welds,what kind of weight do those casters carry?

Paint...

I have a reciever tube set in concrete on the side of my driveway that the tube bender mounts to. I stuck a piece of scrap in it to hold the main bar up for paint.

nice welds,what kind of weight do those casters carry?

The casters are almost 600# each. Ran about $15 each from Northern Tool.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_47732_47732

I wanted everything to be rated to carry 2000# total. I think it should be able to take that much weight. Time will tell.

The details...

I drilled different sized holes in the 1/2" gussets to give me a place to store all of the various shackles, slings, and snatch blocks.

The casters are almost 600# each. Ran about $15 each from Northern Tool.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_47732_47732

I wanted everything to be rated to carry 2000# total. I think it should be able to take that much weight. Time will tell.

nice man!

Harbor Freight hoist winch. I got the 1350# version and was very impressed with the quality and weight that this thing had. For the money it was well worth it. It is very quick. So quick that I hooked up the snatch block just to slow it down a bit. It would yank the top off the JK before I could get my finger off the trigger.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2954

List price, $169 got it on sale with a 20% coupon and it was about $100 :smokin:

I also picked up the 2 slings that you see on the side leg. They were $10 each and are rated for 1000# each.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44847

The trolley....

I had a whole bin full of these really nice v block pulleys packed with sealed bearings. 3 rows of 3 each gave me a nice smooth and distributed trolley. Used the plasma to trim down a piece of 6x3x.25" angle for the main brackets. Note that the hole in the middle will engage the holes in the main beam with a 5/8" hitch pin to keep the trolley put when I don't want it to roll.

Thats a really sweet looking project. My only .02 fwiw would be to drill one big hole in one of the black flanges big enough so you can fit the screw of a C clamp through it so you can clamp the trolly solid at any position along the top rail.

Last picts are of the finished project. This is the fully lowered position and fully raised position. Note that when dropped down, the 2" comes out the bottom to let it drop down further.

Lowered it's about 5.5'
Raised it's about 10'

I know we've all picked up stuff that we really shouldn't and have paid for it afterwards. Well at least I have. Hopefully this will save me some pain. I know I've used it at least a few times a week already.

Enjoy.

Thats a really sweet looking project. My only .02 fwiw would be to drill one big hole in one of the black flanges big enough so you can fit the screw of a C clamp through it so you can clamp the trolly solid at any position along the top rail.

There is a hitch pin that goes in the trolly hole and into one of the main beam holes. The holes are 12" apart on the main beam and 6" apart on the verticals.

Awesome project and very nice job. Did you just make it up as you went or did you follow a plan? If you used a plan, was it of you own making?

looks like an awesome setup.

I wanted everything to be rated to carry 2000# total. I think it should be able to take that much weight. Time will tell.

Harbor Freight hoist winch. I got the 1350# version

im just saying.

I had made my plan and knew what I wanted before I started. Like I said all of the materials I had on hand so some of the design was tailor'd around what was around.

As for the rating difference between the hoist and the rest of it, I had much rather the hoist not pick up something as to have the gantry bend, break, or otherwise not be rated. If it's too heavy, then the hoist just won't cut it and I'm ok with that. I wanted good quality casters cause there is nothing more frusterating than cheap casters. The only thing I wish I had splurged on was I didn't get locks on the casters so it can sometimes get away from you on the gradual slope of the driveway.

Most things that I will be picking up with this are going to be 500# or less. Axles, camp box, tool box, tube bender, frame, Scout tub, JK hard top, etc. This should do all of that fine.

that turned out nice...

Great project.

Since the base (upside down T) is already tube, you might want to make up some extensions, or out riggers.

If something starts to sway at all while suspended it might tip over due to how narrow it is. BTDT with the Rover hard top, not fun. Re-did mine with a 6' base.

how do you lower and raise the gantry by yourself?

how do you lower and raise the gantry by yourself?

With a bigger gantry... duh :flipoff2:

Great project.

Since the base (upside down T) is already tube, you might want to make up some extensions, or out riggers.

If something starts to sway at all while suspended it might tip over due to how narrow it is. BTDT with the Rover hard top, not fun. Re-did mine with a 6' base.

x2



I like it I've wanted one forever, maybe I'll quit being lazy and build one.

I may eventually add some outriggers.

As long as the winch isn't on the end you're trying to lift, it's not bad. I slide a piece of 5/8" rod into one of the holes that gives me something to lift on.

I like it I've wanted one forever, maybe I'll quit being lazy and build one.

It is one of things you wonder how you lived without once you have one, especially as you get older and rolling around on the ground becomes less and less appealing:

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=378832&stc=1&d=1215311434

I found my next project.

nicely done.

very nice !!

Only thing I would do to suit my needs would be to make the top section also have a reciever tube setup so all the pieces could be moved and stored easier.

Just added to my long term todo list..

Harbor Freight hoist winch. I got the 1350# version and was very impressed with the quality and weight that this thing had. For the money it was well worth it. It is very quick. So quick that I hooked up the snatch block just to slow it down a bit.

I use the snatch block for this reason, too. HF claims the same line speed on all their hoists like this, and appears to vary the weight capacity w motor HP

Nice work. I would put eye bolts near the bottom so you can secure loads with a ratchet strap while you're rolling it around. I wonder if folding legs like the ones on a HF engine hoist would work ok?

Nice build!


Ive been planning one similar for a while now. Have the HF hoist and everything.

THis gives me a few more ideas :smokin:

I had made my plan and knew what I wanted before I started. Like I said all of the materials I had on hand so some of the design was tailor'd around what was around.

As for the rating difference between the hoist and the rest of it, I had much rather the hoist not pick up something as to have the gantry bend, break, or otherwise not be rated. If it's too heavy, then the hoist just won't cut it and I'm ok with that. I wanted good quality casters cause there is nothing more frusterating than cheap casters. The only thing I wish I had splurged on was I didn't get locks on the casters so it can sometimes get away from you on the gradual slope of the driveway.

Most things that I will be picking up with this are going to be 500# or less. Axles, camp box, tool box, tube bender, frame, Scout tub, JK hard top, etc. This should do all of that fine.

What does the snatch block do to the rating?

Nice work. I would put eye bolts near the bottom so you can secure loads with a ratchet strap while you're rolling it around. I wonder if folding legs like the ones on a HF engine hoist would work ok?

I thought about eye bolts for that reason but figured that there were enough holes in the bars and the base bar didn't get cap'd for that reason too.

What does the snatch block do to the rating?

The snatch block will half the line speed and double the lift capacity.

The snatch block will half the line speed and double the lift capacity.

Which is the advertised capacity of 1350, or whatever the box says. Without the snatch block it's 675. IOW the advertised lift of these hoists is factoring in the mechanical advantage of the supplied snatch block.

BTW I just put a much larger hook on my snatch block - I hate those small hooks that come w these cheap hoists and winches. The larger hook wouldn't fit in between the supplied plates, so I just made a little adapter out of flat bar; I'd snap a pic if I had my camera

What's the heaviest load you've hoisted so far? I'd be wary of maxing it out for fear of it burning up. HF isn't exactly known for being honest with their ratings.

Awesome project!

I like how you made it adjustable... now you can store it easier, and use less winch line or get over larger obstacles to do the lifting, etc.. Very nice!

I thought about eye bolts for that reason but figured that there were enough holes in the bars and the base bar didn't get cap'd for that reason too.

Yeah that will work well. Strapping diagonally will help immensely with the sway too. I think when I do mine I'll just drill some holes near the base ends to make it a little easier to hook the straps.

What's the heaviest load you've hoisted so far? I'd be wary of maxing it out for fear of it burning up. HF isn't exactly known for being honest with their ratings.

So far the only thing I've picked up with it is the JK hardtop. :D I'll have to think twice whether or not I'll use the winch to lift my Scout tub or if I'll just use a come'along.

Awesome project!

I like how you made it adjustable... now you can store it easier, and use less winch line or get over larger obstacles to do the lifting, etc.. Very nice!

It was designed to store in a specific place in my 2 car garage. It is made to straddle my lathe and my machininst cabinet. That way I can also use it if I wanted help lifting chucks or heavy parts onto/off of the lathe. One of the reasons the bases are as short as they are is so when it's stored it won't stick out past the storage rack and lathe. Tucks in there nicely. :smokin:

So far the only thing I've picked up with it is the JK hardtop. :D I'll have to think twice whether or not I'll use the winch to lift my Scout tub or if I'll just use a come'along.



It was designed to store in a specific place in my 2 car garage. It is made to straddle my lathe and my machininst cabinet. That way I can also use it if I wanted help lifting chucks or heavy parts onto/off of the lathe. One of the reasons the bases are as short as they are is so when it's stored it won't stick out past the storage rack and lathe. Tucks in there nicely. :smokin:

Gotcha, I was wondering that makes sense now, and is perfect for its purposes sounds like!

If I had a paved driveway or pad in front of my garage I think I'd have to build something similar since I work alone often.

What's the heaviest load you've hoisted so far? I'd be wary of maxing it out for fear of it burning up. HF isn't exactly known for being honest with their ratings.

Eh it just stalls if you overload it. If you were dumb enough to stay on the switch you'd have problems. Also I'm sure it's just like anything else from HF: every 10th one is garbage and will die on the 2nd use

Wish I would have built one of these when I had my shop :(
VERY Nice job

Got to test it out this weekend. Lifted my Scout tub off the stands and get it on the trailer. The width was about right to comfortably back the trailer between the uprights. The hoist winch lifted the body without so much as a grunt. I don't know what the tub weigh'd but I'd guess around 500#? I did use a couple of ratchet straps to stabilize the tub when I didn't have a hand on it. I used an engine leveler to mount to the tub and cranked on it till I had it balanced.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=480543&stc=1&d=1258468171

Nice. Seems to do the job well.

thats DAMN slick scoutman. whats the final price?

thats DAMN slick scoutman. whats the final price?

Thanks.

As for what I have invested in this, well I've slept since then but I think this is a rough guideline...

*Hoist -- $100
*Casters -- $60+shipping
*Various pins, clips, 1/2" clevis's -- $20
*Slings -- $20 for 2
*Paint -- $10

The hardware and rollers I already had on hand.
The only piece of steel I had to buy was the 6" angle for the trolly.

I have no clue how much $$ in steel it would take. All of this was built with stuff I had sitting around the shop. The receiver tubes were bought a long time ago for a project and never used. I remember they were pricy but you could just use standard 2.5" box tube for much cheaper. Everything else steel wise may total up to be $150.
16' of 2x4 (10 for the main beam, 3 each for the feet)
12' of 2x2
Plate for gussets
Scrap 1.75 cage tube for angled base braces

My out of pocket is probably around $225
Probably add another $150 if you didn't have the steel


I've been thinking of making the uprights powered. I know the HF gantry's use a boat type winch and some pulleys but I'm wanting something a little slicker. :grinpimp: I thought of welding a large nut to the bottom of the 2" square tube uprights, taking a piece of matching all thread and run it up inside the tube then attaching that all thread to a motor that's mounted to the bottom of the base (between the casters). Lube up the threaded rod liberally. As the motor spins, it acts as a lead screw to push up the uprights. I've been digging around Surplus Center looking for a suitable motor for the job. 110v, compact, cheap, reasonable RPM, ample torque, etc. So far my best option is a garage door opener motor. Folks are always scraping these and Surplus Center has them for around $10. I just don't know if the torque is adequate. Any thoughts on this?

Very nicely done!
I would be concerned with the power of the garage door opener motors, if you would make them run a worm drive gear box with a 30 or 40 to 1 ratio, they would probably be up to the task, and that speed would be easier to regulate the speed to line up your pins. I think Surplus Center has those too.
Electric trailer tongue jack? they are 12v but you could use a converter.