Looking for a little help finding the cover that is missing from this compressor.

It says the following

Champ pheumatic machinery company
Serial - r15049653
Nr-80a
M-1820
3213036 something i can't even read it
R-14-16a

Here is the compressor with a red rag stuffed where the cover goes (just to the right of the top of the two push broom handles). Any help is appreciated. I have looked for quite a while but apparently in all the wrong places.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o233/adampfisters/Shop/DSCF0695.jpg

Is this possibly Champion Pneumatic? If so I'd try them directly. http://www.championpneumatic.com/

Is it just flat with a couple bolt holes? If so, can you just make one if all else fails?

I would have already made it myself if it was. It is the bleed of cover/cap. It has 6 holes for the screws around the outside and then a "cap" of some sorts that has a large cap or bolt head type of deal on the outside and the inside holds a spring and pin. I think that opens up air if the pump isn't spinning fast enough so there is not pressure against the pistons at startup (I think). Thanks for the link, I will give them a call and see if they can lead me to whoever makes them for them (I am sure they just brand parts from somewhere (china) like everyone else does).

I'm 97.3% sure it's item number P07538C from HERE (Grainger) (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/rp_parts_list.jsp?xi=xi&lastProdSearchCriteria=7095529&mfg=SPEEDAIRE+BY+DAYTON&model=1WD46&info=&desc=5hp+Duplex+Air+Compressor&supp=20002571&save=1). Look at the 2nd diagram....part number 16.


This is all based off that M-1820 which appears to be the crankcase number. I'm guessing several companies use that same case.

I think it's acutually a Gardner Denver pump....and I think I have the same one. Got any closeup pics?

I'm 97.3% sure it's item number P07538C from HERE (Grainger) (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/rp_parts_list.jsp?xi=xi&lastProdSearchCriteria=7095529&mfg=SPEEDAIRE+BY+DAYTON&model=1WD46&info=&desc=5hp+Duplex+Air+Compressor&supp=20002571&save=1). Look at the 2nd diagram....part number 16.


This is all based off that M-1820 which appears to be the crankcase number. I'm guessing several companies use that same case.

I think it's acutually a Gardner Denver pump....and I think I have the same one. Got any closeup pics?

Back with some closeups. The cover that I have pictured is one I found (and thought I hit the jackpot) but it ended up being 1/2" too big at 6.5" when what I need is a 6" one. Again, help is appreciated. There is a guy that says he can find me one and want a whopping $188 for a used one :shaking: Not that I care that it is used but I was thinking $30 for his troubles and maybe $50 on the high side out the door so to speak.

This is what the cover goes on

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o233/adampfisters/Shop/DSCF1172.jpg

This is the too big cover

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o233/adampfisters/Shop/DSCF1174.jpg

The inside of the too big cover with a nice dimming/color effect from my finger covering the flash (weird huh!)

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o233/adampfisters/Shop/DSCF1177.jpg

And the pump itself

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o233/adampfisters/Shop/DSCF1179.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o233/adampfisters/Shop/DSCF1182.jpg

Anyone?

Look at the link I posted. After seeing the closeups, I'm a little more confident that Dayton one I posted is the same thing.

They're calling it a "governor housing" and your missing plate is the "bearing housing cover".


In your picture, parts 11 and 15 below look identical. Wouldn't hurt to give Grainger a call and see what the cover plate will cost...if they can get it.

Look at the link I posted. After seeing the closeups, I'm a little more confident that Dayton one I posted is the same thing.

They're calling it a "governor housing" and your missing plate is the "bearing housing cover".


In your picture, parts 11 and 15 below look identical. Wouldn't hurt to give Grainger a call and see what the cover plate will cost...if they can get it.

Thanks for the help man.

Bump from the dead... :eek:

I just picked up an old Dayton Speedaire for my friend's shop. Looks to have the same compressor unit, with the same problem. The crankcase cover (apparently it's the governor housing) is cracked, as well as the exhaust manifold from the low pressure jug to the intake of the high pressure jug.

The compressor has the same M-1820 crankcase, and is branded as a 3Z180. The exhaust manifold is stamped RE-10-2E, which is apparently the Speedaire PN, and also shared with the Army TM I found for what looks to be the same thing. The cover has a useless part number or serial number sticker from Precision Alternator down in VA, as well as a serial number tag under the screws, but no visible part number. I guess lots of people break that part. :laughing: Near as I can tell, the PN for it is RE10-100A.

I'm pretty much coming up bust finding either part at a reputable online dealer. Grainger doesn't have prices listed on their site, nor the specific compressor model, but hopefully they can get the parts if need be. Anyone know a helpful dealer I could try in case I strike out locally tomorrow?

Does the cap support anything inside, or is it simply a cover? If the latter, can you just make one? I'm thinking a ring cut on a plasma table with the bolt pattern in it, and a weld-on pipe cap welded to the ring. Kinda like a flat-brimmed cowboy hat with holes in the brim? :confused:

Does the cap support anything inside, or is it simply a cover? If the latter, can you just make one? I'm thinking a ring cut on a plasma table with the bolt pattern in it, and a weld-on pipe cap welded to the ring. Kinda like a flat-brimmed cowboy hat with holes in the brim? :confused:

I don't think it supports anything inside, AFAIK it mostly keeps the oil in. If you look in the last pic in post #5, that thing on the tube to the left of the head is the unloader valve apparently, and goes on or through the center of that cap. Welding something isn't out of the question, but this is going to be the only compressor for a commercial shop, so better to spend the money if cheap might not mean reliable. I wish it was a simple cap, we'd just TIG a plate over the hole. :laughing:

Oh, and if anyone knows how much motor it'd take to run this thing on single phase, that would be cool. It's got a 5hp 3 phase, and is rated at 15cfm@175psi. :eek: the building has/had 3 phase, but it's not currently in service, and may have been physically removed, so hooking it up isn't likely. Looks like he's in the market for a rotary converter too.

my only suggestion is Green Valley Air Compressor (http://greenvalleycompressor.com/), a air compressor salvage yard of sorts.

my only suggestion is Green Valley Air Compressor (http://greenvalleycompressor.com/), a air compressor salvage yard of sorts.

Thanks for this. Had exactly what we needed, even hooked me up with a used cover to get it quicker and cheaper. :smokin:

On this 3 phase thing... Electrician looked at it yesterday, and claims it needs 460v 3 phase, even though the motor lists 230v :confused: There's no 460v in the building either, which makes it that much more appealing to switch it to single phase. The electrician said all we need is a 5hp motor that fits.

I have about 0 experience in all this, will a 5hp single phase motor power this pump as well as the 5hp 3 phase? Horsepower is horsepower, but i know there's some weirdness with that when it comes to electric motors.

The electrician said all we need is a 5hp motor that fits.


5HP is more than adequate for that compressor. I run a big Quincy on a 3HP 230V motor. 3 phase is more efficient and cheaper to operate=less current draw.
Why not let Green Valley supply you a proper sized motor since they gave you good service?

5HP is more than adequate for that compressor. I run a big Quincy on a 3HP 230V motor. 3 phase is more efficient and cheaper to operate=less current draw.
Why not let Green Valley supply you a proper sized motor since they gave you good service?

The compressor is rated for 5-7.5hp, but I can't find a 7.5 single phase in the right frame size. It's supposed to flow 15cfm @ 175psi, so I'm not sure where 5hp would be "more than enough". As long as it's enough though, I'm happy.

And I'm not looking to buy the motor there because shipping something that big and heavy halfway across the country quickly gets really expensive.

you can slow the compressor down slightly to help with the 5 hp if that would help.
I think you would be fine though with a real 21 amp 5 hp motor though.

I would make damn sure the motor you have won't work.
Do you have 3 phase?

you can slow the compressor down slightly to help with the 5 hp if that would help.
I think you would be fine though with a real 21 amp 5 hp motor though.

I would make damn sure the motor you have won't work.
Do you have 3 phase?

We don't have 3 phase, nor 460v service, and my understanding is 3 phase has a roughly $400 a month minimum around here. Having a rotary to run a compressor doesn't sound like fun to me (either running the rotary all day, or figuring out how to switch it along with the compressor), so that would leave an inverter.

I just drove up last night and picked up a used GE single phase 5hp motor that's rated 25 amps... for a whopping $100. If all goes well we should have it up and running tomorrow. Puts it at about $700 all told. :smokin:

We don't have 3 phase, nor 460v service, and my understanding is 3 phase has a roughly $400 a month minimum around here. Having a rotary to run a compressor doesn't sound like fun to me (either running the rotary all day, or figuring out how to switch it along with the compressor), so that would leave an inverter.

I just drove up last night and picked up a used GE single phase 5hp motor that's rated 25 amps... for a whopping $100. If all goes well we should have it up and running tomorrow. Puts it at about $700 all told. :smokin:

that sounds like a deal...

when you get it running leave the tank valve open and check the rpm of the compressor, you should check with champion to see if its correct for the motor hp. they usually use one pump for different cfm ratings, they wil speed up the pump for the 7.5 hp and slow it down for the 5 hp.
after that is sorted out check the running amps for the motor when loaded to make sure you aren't over driving the pump.

that sounds like a deal...

when you get it running leave the tank valve open and check the rpm of the compressor, you should check with champion to see if its correct for the motor hp. they usually use one pump for different cfm ratings, they wil speed up the pump for the 7.5 hp and slow it down for the 5 hp.
after that is sorted out check the running amps for the motor when loaded to make sure you aren't over driving the pump.

The new motor is 1710rpm, old one is 1740rpm. I swapped the pulleys over, so all should be well. The motor was original, and the belts look like they're from about 1982, so I don't think it's been tinkered with.

I wish I could say the same about the pump. :( I pulled the exhaust valves out today to replace the crush washers under them, and install the new manifold. There's a ledge at the top of the cylinder that the crush washer and valve seat to, and it got pushed into the cylinder and cracked when whoever broke that manifold. Damn thing needs a cylinder on top of the rest, it's pretty much a heavy, expensive paperweight. :mad3: I'm as pissed at myself for not catching it as I am at the beaners we picked it up from for saying it worked. This thing just turned into one really damn expensive air tank.

I have what i believe to be the same pump sitting in my shop, was saving it for a project one day. But i could use the money now. I saw it running before i bought it, only want what i paid for it $100 plus shipping.It is off a gardner denver compressor.

I have what i believe to be the same pump sitting in my shop, was saving it for a project one day. But i could use the money now. I saw it running before i bought it, only want what i paid for it $100 plus shipping.It is off a gardner denver compressor.

Damn that's tempting. I'm going to check out a local sales/repair place tomorrow to check out a few used pumps they have for $250. Shipping from you would probably kill the deal, especially since my buddy needs the compressor running by, uh, Monday. Doh!

Just let me know, i may not see the thread if you post. Just pm me

damn I hate that shit, I am sure you can still make out with a used cylinder but the price is getting up there.

Call these guys up 330-536-9665. I believe the name is the air compressor company. They are out of lowellville ohio and can hook you up with anything you need. I personally have a R-15 head like the OP. Needed reed valves and a new exhaust port due to me being an idiot and cracking it. Out the door my cost was 110 bucks for four reed valve, the port, air filter, and an air switch.

For what its worth, I have the TM for the Champion R15 pump. Anyway, here is the download for said TM. I am not sure if I am allowed to distribute it, because it is watermarked from the company i purchased it from, but what the hell.

http://www.gamefront.com/files/21155759/R10D-R15B+1.5--7.5+HP+MANUAL+V14.pdf