: dana 60 splindle nut tool not the 4 or 6 prong


broncogearhead
09-04-2009, 10:07 PM
mine looks like a big nut.
i bought a 2.5" tool, but its too small.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/754953/fullsize/hpim9547.jpg

i found this website, and it has a 2 9/16" and a 2 3/4" tool.
which one do i need?
http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Automotive/Axle_Nut_Sockets/_page3.htm?per=15&sort=2

71PA_Highboy
09-08-2009, 04:32 PM
2 9/16.

This was posted last week also... try searching.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=815627

broncogearhead
09-09-2009, 07:20 PM
sorry i didn't put in my original post this was a 96' front dana 60.

that 2 9/16 is for the rear end.
i ended up ordering a 2 3/4" rounded socket.
i ended cutting up a tool i had, and welding tabs on it till it fit right.
it measured 2 3/4"

when i looked on line, it showed it being used in the 95/96 years with auto hubs. if all thats true, then my hubs were swapped out at some point.

i had to order it online cause i couldn't find it locally. I should have it in a day or two. i'll post up if it is indeed the correct socket in case anyone else has this question.

Panthers65
09-09-2009, 07:28 PM
it's a pain to deal with, any spicer dealer should be able to sell you the 6 prong nut for it.

2-3/4" is the right size

82F100SWB
09-09-2009, 07:37 PM
My 93 Dodge had 2-3/4" hex nuts with the stupid fold over washer deal on the pass side front of it's 60... I used a big screwdriver and a hammer to get it off and tossed it in the toolbox, and swapped it for the standard 4 prong Ford setup.
Now that I think of it, I do remember seeing the setup you're dealing with on a few later 90's auto hub equipped F250's, and F350 would be the same. At least it's not the wonderfull 4 prong racheting setup they used.... I just don't like those... LOL

broncogearhead
10-03-2009, 10:10 PM
as a couple of you already stated, the 2 3/4" rounded socket was the right one.
just a quick question. how tight should this be?
it would seem, that if its to tight, it will put to much pressure on the bearings.
to loose, and it could come apart.
for the time being, i did it at about 60 foot pounds. that was where i could still freely spin the hub with out to much resistance.
also, that little half circle washer/lock seems flimsy at best.

'89 pos
10-04-2009, 10:55 PM
I'm pretty surprised that you're setting bearing preload without knowing how. Search. All you need to know is in the Billavista dana 60 bible.

broncogearhead
10-05-2009, 07:38 AM
I'm pretty surprised that you're setting bearing preload without knowing how. Search. All you need to know is in the Billavista dana 60 bible.

i read his write up. it and his links, only showed the other style lock nuts.
his spec show the adjusting nut at 50 pounds, then back off 90 degrees. i guess i copied it down wrong cause i torqued it to 60.
i'm close to having the same preload on the bearing.
the bearings are all same, no matter which nuts are used. i'd guess the nut loading the bearing would be torqued the same.

the style of nut i have doesn't use a second nut(the one that locks it down). in lieu of the second nut, there is a half circle metal washer that has a tab that goes into the slot on the spindle.

jam0o0
10-06-2009, 09:33 AM
yea just throw out that crap you've got and get the standard system. it's like $10. any axle parts vendor here can get it i for you. you always tighten and then back off on wheel bearings. if not you smoke um. real fast.