Picked up this 76 K5 Blazer from a guy that needed the money. Paid $400 bucks and installed a hub on his 03 suburban. It has a 400 small block, headers, new distributor, plugs, wires. As soon as I get time this week I will pick up a battery and try and get her running. One thing I noticed today on the visor is that it said full time 4x4. Is this correct? If so what T-case would it have? Here are a couple pics of the beast
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSCF2353.jpg
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSCF2354.jpg
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSCF2355.jpg
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSCF2357.jpg

And my wife had to take one of me and my 13 month old son in the back seat :D
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSCF2358.jpg

i guess a question is, is it true it is all time 4x4? It has a shifter but I'm assuming it's for hi/low range? Also which t-case would it be?

If it says full time 4x4its got an np203 t case

is the 203 any good?

is the 203 any good?

You betcha! It's almost as strong as a 205 and you can mate them up to create a doubler. It's chain-driven though.

the shifter will have 5 positions if its a 203 and 4 if its a 205... the good thing about havin a 203 is you already have the range box to do a 203/205 doubler if you want.. i dont think they are that bad.. although they suck at shifting.. and are heavy.. but its a 2.5 low range... so its just personal preference

what do you guys think about the 400 small block in the K5?

also what tranny would it have? Where can I get a front d-shaft from?

but its a 2.5 low range...


It is actually a 2.0 low range.

It should have a th350 tranny if it's an auto.

You can pick up a front driveshaft at junkyards or in the pbb for sale section.

Pretty good score if you ask me. It should have a front D44 and a 12bolt rearend also.

I plan on cleaning up the interior and fixing the little bit of cancer spots and then putting bed liner on the floor boards. Would like to throw some 35s or possibly 38.5's so how much would I need to lift it? Don't really want to cut the fenders up just yet.

your right.. i was wrong... ha... dont hang me... i donno why i thought that 203 had a 2.5 low range... brain fart

do a little bit of research on the few things im about to say about your lift and youll find everything you need

put an ORD shackle flip kit in the rear
put 52" springs in the front, out of a 3/4 ton chevy

search chevy shackle flip and chevy spring swap, theres been 100000000 articles on how much lift and what size tires. search button will be your friend

The question is how much do you have to spend on a lift?

well I dont want to break the bank on a lift for a toy, but I also don't want some junk that is going to break off either, if you know what I mean. I appreciate all the help and info though!

It looks like a lockout hub in the picture, but that is 203 shifter knob, someone might have done a part time conversion kit. Post a pic of the back of the transfercase though, maybe it got swapped to a 205. A lot can happen in 34 years.

yeah thats what is confusing me. It has manual lockout hubs, but the visor has the sticker that says full time 4x4 with all the warnings. The shifter knob just has a diagram of 4 wheels and a chasis on it if you can figure out what im trying to say haha. I know the front shaft is missing so I will need to get one. But like I said its just confusing as hell seeing the manual hubs with the full time 4x4 that it says it has. Either way I'm just trying to figure this damn thing out and get it going

A lot of them have had a part time conversion done to them to save on fuel. It's real common. The 74 that came with my 85 has the conversion done on it as well.

What Brooks is telling you is what I plan on doing on mine. I already have the shackle flip done in back, here's the article on how to do the front:
http://coloradok5.com/52inchspringswap.shtml

here are some pics of the motor, rear end and t-case like a couple asked for. It has some leaks around the tranny/t-case. I know its not much to work with but can anyone determine what t-case it is?
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSCF2360.jpg
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSCF2362.jpg
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSCF2363.jpg
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSCF2364.jpg
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSCF2366.jpg

Looks like a 203. Does it drive/move in all the transfercase shifter ranges?

the guy that my buddy got it from back in June of this year was driving it everyday. Its been sitting since then so I assume it still does. I've been working on cleaning some of his rigging up and checking the electrical system before I try and start it. Actually got it to run for a few seconds today with gas in the carb. Lifters tapped a bit, but I believe its due to lack of oil in the top end since its been sitting. Planning on changing the oil and throwing some fresh oil in it so it will get in the valve covers before I try and put gas in the tank and actually start it and let it run.

It's a 203. Nice to see what looks like an original q-jet on there.

It's a 203. Nice to see what looks like an original q-jet on there.
ha yeah, I have heard the quadrajet is refered to as quadrajunk? Is it that big of a piece?

ha yeah, I have heard the quadrajet is refered to as quadrajunk? Is it that big of a piece?

No. I've had alot better luck with a rightly tuned q-jet than the holleys and edelbrocks i've ran AND got better gas mileage out of them

No. I've had alot better luck with a rightly tuned q-jet than the holleys and edelbrocks i've ran AND got better gas mileage out of them

Yep. I've got two friends in our club that retrofitted q-jets onto their Ford engines on their trail rigs (one 302, one 460, both are built). The old Motorcraft 2 barrels work good also but limit the power on a healthier engine.

i agree... i liked the Q-jet on my old mud truck... it needed a rebuild and i replaced it with an edelbrock... bout a week later i took the edelbrock back off and sold it and rebuilt the q-jet... i never could get that lil bog out when the secondaries snap open.. but other than that... ran great and would pin me in the seat... did good off road in the trails and stuff... keep it.. rebuild it.... if not send it my way

well weathers been nasty here so not a whole lot more done except finishing gutting the inside to get ready for bed liner. My cam, lifters, valve springs, timing chain and all that good stuff made it in though. THe cam I went with is the comp cams magnum 280H. At .050 the specs are 231/231 480/480 on a 110 lsa so it should be pretty choppy. Will try and get some pics up over the weekend.

build looks good so far. like the classic k5s

Look at the balancer and see if on the back outside edge there is a notch in it. I dont believe that it is a 400 by the passenger side dipstick, all the ones i have seen are old style drivers side dipstick but i may be wrong. Just sayin cause too many people have tried telling me (its got a 400 in it) when all it is is a worn out 305 or 350. Just so you know what you got.

every 400 i have seen has a passenger side dipstick. Not doubting you, but It's all original and I know it originally came with a 400 and it even has the 400 in the grill stock. How can I check for sure if its a 400? Not that it really matters, all the small block chevy parts willl work on it. I am almost 100% certain its a 400. Let me know though for sure how to make certain!

thanks

my blazer has a 400 with a drivers side dipstick, and the tranny stick is on pass. side.
checking the balancer will prolly be the easiest way to tell if its a 400.

i agree with keepin the quadrajet. if there set up wright, they work great. they get wore out around the main butterfly shaft and suck air, butt u can get them drilled out and new brass bushings put in. this is what ive heard and could be off alittle, butt im sure someone will correct me if i am.

every 400 i have seen has a passenger side dipstick. Not doubting you, but It's all original and I know it originally came with a 400 and it even has the 400 in the grill stock. How can I check for sure if its a 400? Not that it really matters, all the small block chevy parts willl work on it. I am almost 100% certain its a 400. Let me know though for sure how to make certain!

thanksThe balancer, or if it has 3 freeze plugs in the side of the block. The balancer is the easiest.

and how would the balancer feel on a 350 opposed to the 400?

the 400 one will have a ridge where some material has been removed to make it balanced.

heres a pic that might help
http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/balancer.html

the 400 one will have a ridge where some material has been removed to make it balanced.

heres a pic that might help
http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/balancer.html

Ok, thanks for all the help! I'll check it out when I get home

I looked and cant find the groove you guys are talking about on the balancer. WHat does this mean?

someone prolly did a swap.
might try the casting #'s http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/casting.html

i got this page from a google search of sbc identification #'s

keep in mind that im no expert, this is just what i would prolly do.
you could look at the soft plugs, butt ive read that there can be 2 or 3 of them, depending on year i guess.
i think the #'s would be the most accurate way

I favorited this page a few years ago.

http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

shows head casting numbers as well

someone prolly did a swap.
might try the casting #'s http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/casting.html

i got this page from a google search of sbc identification #'s

keep in mind that im no expert, this is just what i would prolly do.
you could look at the soft plugs, butt ive read that there can be 2 or 3 of them, depending on year i guess.
i think the #'s would be the most accurate way

The one on my 400 has 3 but ones casted and raised off the block i the shape of a freeze plug. Like a false plug or something

thats why i figured that it would take out more confusion with just checking the #'s.

Ya like said above all sbc parts interchange and will work for you. I just figured id see if youd check and confirm it was a 400. That way you know what you got. Not flaming you or anything.:D If i remember right 79 or 80 was the year they switched dipstick sides from driver to passenger and i think the 400 was produced from around 73-79 iirc. The passenger side dipstick just threw me off that is all.

I favorited this page a few years ago.

http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

shows head casting numbers as well

Excellent page very helpful. Got multiple copies and always got one in the truck.
Sorry for hijacking, Back to the thread.

not much progress, just got all of the trim and grill tore off and ready for pain, started patching the floors. Hood is off to make it easier to throw the cam in. I plan on fiberglassing the floor over the patches and then bed liner. Heres a couple of pics.
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSC00729.jpg
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSC00732.jpg
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSC00733.jpg
Had to throw in a pic of the wood grain :D
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSC00734.jpg
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSC00735.jpg
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSC00736.jpg
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSC00730.jpg

just noticed too, lovin the GMC steering wheel in the chevy blazer lol.

you mean the gmc horn button that doesnt match the wheel like somebody swaped it out?



did you get the motor figured out?


you can also check the flex plate. it will have a large 1" x .25" x 3" long chunk of steel spot welded to it is it is a 400.

no I never figured out if it is a 400 or 350. I plan on doing some more searching once I finish the inside

If it wont drive in all positions on the t case then thats the reason its missing the d shaft up front. Someone would have put manual locks in it, pulled the shaft, and just driven around in hi-loc as a 2wd. Doesnt look too bad though, I have a 76 thats seen its fair share of rocks and it looks pretty haggard now. Suits me though!

Few more pics, not that good. I pulled the top off and hope this weekend to have the inside ready and prepped for bed liner.
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSC00737.jpg
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSC00738.jpg
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/DSC00739.jpg

I am thinking about just leaving the top off of it since the inside will be bed linered and the seats will be wrapped in vinyl. WHat are some of yalls opinions on this thought, besides the fact that you will get wet if it rains haha

finished killing some rust and cutting it out, patching the floor and fiberglassing to strengthen the floor. Now hopefully soon I will have time to line the floor.

did you say fiberglassing to strenghten the floor?

to find out exactly what block you have, go to this site (http://www.73-87.com/chevy_ids/scmenu2.htm)

You can find the identifying numbers on the pad at the front of the block, on the deck surface, behind the alternator. the last 2 or 3 letters in the code stamped there is the Suffix Code for that engine and will tell you what the original hp rating was, and maybe some other stuff.

if you wanna spend the money, go with a softtop. you can take it off and on real easy

did you say fiberglassing to strenghten the floor?
yeah I said fiber glass to strengthen. I had to patch the floor in spots where some cancer was and then fiber glassed over the top of the metal for added strength and YES it does strengthen it a whole lot more than you think it would. Plus it will be bed linered over the top of that. And as for the rag top thats sort of what I was thinking as well.

well, I went to some of the sites you guys gave me and entered the numbers I found on the block and sorry to say it is a gd 305. Don't know what the guy was thinking going from a 400 to a 305 except the fact that he could find 305's a lot cheaper. Anyways this weekend the plan is to throw my Comp Cam Magnum 280H in it. Should wake that slut up. We will see and I'll keep you posted

well, I went to some of the sites you guys gave me and entered the numbers I found on the block and sorry to say it is a gd 305. Don't know what the guy was thinking going from a 400 to a 305 except the fact that he could find 305's a lot cheaper. Anyways this weekend the plan is to throw my Comp Cam Magnum 280H in it. Should wake that slut up. We will see and I'll keep you posted

I've went from 305 to well built 355 back to old worn out 305. Just depends on what happens and what you have laying when you really wanna go play :D

little progress this weekend. A buddy and I got the cam installed, lifter, valve springs. SOunds damn good, but need to rebuild the carb I believe. Where can I find a rebuild kit for a Quadrajet carb?

little progress this weekend. A buddy and I got the cam installed, lifter, valve springs. SOunds damn good, but need to rebuild the carb I believe. Where can I find a rebuild kit for a Quadrajet carb?Any good parts store can get one. You will need the numbers off the carb usually. I would go to store that has knowledgeable sales people like a Carquest, or a Napa. The cheaper stores can get them, but you might spend 2 hours with the waterhead behind the counter to find the one you need.

thats what I figured. Another question, dropped the fuel tank and cleaned it out. The fuel tank of course has the filler and vent tube, the sending unit has the feed and return line, it also has another line with a hose that has been cut off by the previous owner. My question is what would that line possibly go to? It's obviously just an open line. When it runs no fuel comes out of it, but after a day if you try to start it you have to prime the carb again. I'm thinking the line being open is allowing the carb. to drain down? Am I correct? What would the line go to? Can I just plug it off?

got the cam, lifters, valve springs, retainers, timing chain and gears installed this past weekend. Did some more body work and prep for bedliner. Will get some pics up as soon as I can

thats what I figured. Another question, dropped the fuel tank and cleaned it out. The fuel tank of course has the filler and vent tube, the sending unit has the feed and return line, it also has another line with a hose that has been cut off by the previous owner. My question is what would that line possibly go to? It's obviously just an open line. When it runs no fuel comes out of it, but after a day if you try to start it you have to prime the carb again. I'm thinking the line being open is allowing the carb. to drain down? Am I correct? What would the line go to? Can I just plug it off?

I have a 71 blazer that had the same problem, the mechanical fuel pump was shot and after it was replaced no need to prime before starting.
The extra line on the tank could be for emmissions, stuff the PO may have removed.

I think as stated above it had something to do with emissions. As for the fuel problem i also say fuel pump. I've heard the diaphram or w/e in there isn't keepin the fuel in your line letting it bleed back through.

Of course these are just ideas.

yeah I replaced the fuel pump right before we did the cam swap. It worked fine and didnt lose prime. After the cam swap the issue has started. Nerve racking and irritating

little clip of her runnin. Right now it's got open headers so its loud as hell, but you can hear the cam.
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/th_MOV00831.jpg (http://s672.photobucket.com/albums/vv88/xorp/?action=view&current=MOV00831.flv)