So lastnight I received this from Bulltear:
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA001.jpg
Here's the gantry before installation:
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA005.jpg
And after:
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA012.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA016.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA013.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA014.jpg

Everything went together nice, take your time getting the v rails lined up with the gantry rollers. Moves nice and smooth, and hopefully tonight I'll finish up with the software and plasma cutter wiring.

Sweet!

Looking forward to the completion and testing...

Did you get a real plasma for on that thing :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Did you get a real plasma for on that thing :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Why I oughta! :flipoff2:

Throwing a Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52 on it to get going. But have a Longevity 60A IGBT unit that'll be here soon that I'm gonna try on it too...;)

right on man, looks good:smokin:

If you screw up you wont hurt anything these tables dont need limit switches. They cut 54"x51" and if you overtravel they will exceed the gear rack and coast.

Well, I had a weird parallel port driver issue, or lack there of. I chased my tail on that while working on finalizing the table the last few nights. Got the table moving today, and the torch height control circuit board is tested and working well. Built the tower for the table, tested and mounted up motors and zipped her around manually at 800 inches/minute tonight (see video). Planning on finishing wiring, calibrating table and plumbing up the plasma tomorrow night for first cuts...:bounce2:
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/th_P9093175.jpg (http://s244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/?action=view&current=P9093175.flv)

If you screw up you wont hurt anything these tables dont need limit switches. They cut 54"x51" and if you overtravel they will exceed the gear rack and coast.

I like what I'm seeing so far.

What all is involved with resetting the gantry and software if it runs past/off the gear rack?

Like the progress very good! Remember your hours ok!

If you overtravel you simply twist the motor with your hand and pull the gantry back a little and release. There is no need for a limit switch on these :D I have been showing alot of locals these tables lately and even the logn time table owners are liking them. We are taking on with us to Cordova Ill for the Drag race show this weekend if anyone here is around please stop by for a brew and check out one of these first hand.

Materials to build the table:
3- 24' sticks of 2x2x1/8 - $100
Set of 300 lb each casters off ebay - $20
Welding wire, bandsaw blade, grinding disc, plates to mount casters - ? (not much)
Time - 5-6 hrs (alot of it is standing there drinking a beer cutting tube with the bandsaw :D)

Gantry Mounting/Assembly:
2 very casual hours :beer:

Electronics:
Time mounting control boxes running wires & testing connections - 2 hrs
Mounting and testing stepper motors - 1 hr
Researching pin-outs for plasma to connect THC - 1 hr
Wiring plasma - estimated 1 hr (tonight)

My computer was lacking a parallel port driver, so I've wasted probably 3-4 hrs researching and fixing that issue.

To do:
Mount z axis
Clean up cables
Wire plasma
Tune homing on stepper's
Test cut flip off smilie coasters

To do after its running:
Build down draft funnel
Hook up tube fan for exhaust
Make lots of money :laughing:

Pics ya stingy bastard :flipoff2:

And I hope the last item on your list comes true :D

Materials to build the table:
3- 24' sticks of 2x2x1/8 - $100
Set of 300 lb each casters off ebay - $20
Welding wire, bandsaw blade, grinding disc, plates to mount casters - ? (not much)
Time - 5-6 hrs (alot of it is standing there drinking a beer cutting tube with the bandsaw :D)

Gantry Mounting/Assembly:
2 very casual hours :beer:

Electronics:
Time mounting control boxes running wires & testing connections - 2 hrs
Mounting and testing stepper motors - 1 hr
Researching pin-outs for plasma to connect THC - 1 hr
Wiring plasma - estimated 1 hr (tonight)

My computer was lacking a parallel port driver, so I've wasted probably 3-4 hrs researching and fixing that issue.

To do:
Mount z axis
Clean up cables
Wire plasma
Tune homing on stepper's
Test cut flip off smilie coasters

To do after its running:
Build down draft funnel
Hook up tube fan for exhaust
Make lots of money :laughing:

How much do you have in it all together.....not counting the plasma or computer?

And I hope the last item on your list comes true :D

Me too, the funds to get this came out of the finishing funds for my willys buggy. And I really think it needs some 609's...:smokin:

Hopefully have some pics of cut sheetmetal tonight and videos of it running. Tune in around 5-8 Pacific time. :flipoff2:

How much do you have in it all together.....not counting the plasma or computer?

Bulltear Ganty kit - $4500
Steel for table - $100
Downdraft funnel sheetmetal - $50
Plugs etc to hook 220v tube fan and plasma up to extension cord - $40
Casters - $20
Tube fan - freebie from work
Mach 3 License - $175

Total: $4885

My total with computer and Longevity IGBT plasma is more in the $5500+ range. And I don't foresee my noisy ass craftsman 33 gallon compressor lasting much longer. :laughing:

Well, would have had cut parts today. But I'm not gonna lie, I have this problem with not reading instructions or not reading them thoroughly enough. :laughing: I'm just going to blame it on being really busy...:flipoff2:

Anyways, the Sheetcam program is ALOT easier to use than what I thought at the beginning and I know now how to create and load G code.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA017.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA018.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA019.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA020.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/th_CNCPLASMA021.jpg (http://s244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/?action=view&current=CNCPLASMA021.flv)

that table is so small, i wouldn't even build a down draft deal around it, that'd probably just make pickin up parts that fall under harder to get. I would just get big fan, set it right next to the table, and point it where you want the smoke to go, or just roll it out the door to cut, w/ no fan.

Your computer desk is PIMP:grinpimp:

Now let's see some cut parts, and cut quality:smokin:

There will be tracks that a piece of expanded steel slides on top of right under the slats. So that when I'm done, I can reach thru the slats to grab fallen pieces. Then there will be a trap door at the bottom of the downdraft funnel that I can use a hoe to clean crud out every once in awhile.

Garage is 4 bays, and it'lll get cold quick with a door wide open and a big fan blowing in the winter. With the tube fan and down draft I just have to open the overhead door enough to throw the vent tube out into the driveway. ;)

Thanks!

Dude, your like MacGuyver. :D Trap door plasma table:grinpimp:

I was looking at making an "angled funnel" shape for my 4'x4' table. Basically, skin 2 opposing sides with sheet metal. Then, do a diagonal sheet from the "backside" top.. angled down to the front (where I'll run a suction fan). The small parts will fall thru the slats onto the angled sheet and slide down to the front of the table. You could even make a "trough" to catch all the spray.. making cleanup pretty easy. For the time being, I just set a couple small powerful fans on the side of the table and blow the dust/smoke out the front door of the shop.

nice work.

You are gonna love the Mach 3 controller

john

nice work.

You are gonna love the Mach 3 controller

john

Thanks!

Been one heck of a learning curve, thats for sure! :D

Can you give us specs on the plasma cutter you are using? I would like to know if my L-Tec PCM VPi would work with this table setup. Its okay for cutting stuff around the shop, but not sure if it could keep up with the speed this table cuts at.

Could someone at bulltear let me know? Thanks.

I'm starting off using a Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52. But today my Longevity 60A IGBT Continuous Pilot Arc unit came in, so I will get another torch height control board and wire that up.

Your plasma MUST NOT be a high frequency start as it will interfere with the signal. You must have a pilot arc (torch fires without sensing ground).

The size of your plasma dictates what gage material you can cut and material piercing abilities which the manufacturer should supply you. The table can be setup to run at whatever IPM (inches per minute) is required to get a satisfactory cut with your plasma cutter. ;)

Well here's the recent lowdown, where the manual says pin-outs for "okay to move" for this model Thermal Dynamics are do not supply an "okay to move" signal. I can get the torch to fire but no DC voltage signal with the voltmeter. So I am figuring that the PCB relay they sell hooks up to wherever and supplies this. And I really don't want to know what Thermal Dynamics charges for it. So it looks like I need to buy the AC transformer from candcnc to get this signal that hooks into the THC circuit board. :(

I was able to get it to advance and fire by manually hitting the "torch on" button, but it dragged the arc rapidly across the piece as it advanced. But here's a pic of the cuts without any major tuning.

One on left is before I turned up the voltage on the plasma a tad. Wallered out corners is where the torch stayed on to long and would have usually shut off. ;)
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA023.jpg

Nifty :)

Always something tiny gets in the way too!

I looked at the manual and could not tell if the ARC OK signal is a voltage signal. It could be a dry contact closure like the Hypertherms.

I looked at the manual and could not tell if the ARC OK signal is a voltage signal. It could be a dry contact closure like the Hypertherms.

On the j10 output, pins 1 & 3 say "okay to move". Had my buddy manually run the plasma while I used a voltmeter. No DC voltage at all, and only a .2V AC movement. Sucks since I even had a guy at work dig me out an 8 pin molex connector and he made me up the wires and crimped on the special connectors and everything. Oh well, such is life.

Going to call around and see if any dealers are open and would happen to have the PCB Interface (http://www.thermadyne.com/IM_Uploads/DocLib_3849_0-5121.pdf). And find out the price and if that includes a complimentary tube of KY. :laughing:

EDIT
EEK! EBAY $175 (http://cgi.ebay.com/THERMAL-DYNAMICS-AUTOMATION-INTERFACE-KIT-9-8311_W0QQitemZ350184300987QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_De faultDomain_0?hash=item51889c61bb&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14)

That sucks at least someplace has it :flipoff2:

That PCB interface for thermal dyn will give you divided tip volts which will not work. You need raw tip volts and the IO card from candcnc is designed to handle the high voltage and amps.. Essentially you tap into the large gauge wires leading to the torch (mine had 2 reds that I tapped into) Then use the ground clamp for the other side of the circuit. (I was hesitant to do this at first but finally realized I was getting Pilot arc volts using the ones in the manual...)

For OK to Move my TD101 didn't have that either so I used the AC transformer but I had to double loop it to get it to work right. It wasn't sensitive enough if I just passed one of the leads through it straight.

That cut quality will clean up a lot when you tune this. Also Big302 gave me a nice tip on improving cut quality. When in Sheetcam make sure you reverse the cut direction in the operation. It does help quite a bit.

I like that mach screen it looks a little different than mine.

That cut quality will clean up a lot when you tune this. Also Big302 gave me a nice tip on improving cut quality. When in Sheetcam make sure you reverse the cut direction in the operation. It does help quite a bit.

I like that mach screen it looks a little different than mine.

I have raw tip volts and can get the torch to fire. I am going to order a transformer Monday.

Thanks for the tip on reversing the direction!

Shoulda gotten a hypertherm lol :flipoff2:

Shoulda gotten a hypertherm lol :flipoff2:

If I had your kind of money I would have! :flipoff2:

If I had your kind of money I would have! :flipoff2:

:laughing: if only I had that much money :( :(

Don't buy a house if you want to keep buying tools :( it seems there is no such thing as extra money haha...

Getting my place ready for winter is taking all my fun, tool, etc... money :( Barely gonna have enough to finish the rif for a trip in October I`m hoping :D :D

any updates? the reason i ask is that i have shelled out for a 4x8 but it coming to OZ.
just wondering if theres any pitfalls that i can avoid?

What kind of plasma you running? Waiting on the AC transformer is the only thing holding me up. If you get the electronics ahead of time, practice running sheetcam and mach3 generating g code so your ready to rock n roll...;)

thermal dynamics cutmaster 40mm (not purchased yet though) thats what its called this side of the earth

tuf045 get a hypertherm, the machine torch, and machine interface cable. That should eliminate the problem ROXROES is currently facing, and put you ahead some. The only drawback, more $$.

I don't care personally for the hand torch, but you can use it if you don't have, or don't want to shell out the $$. I have a handtorch for mine so i can unplug from the plasma table, and use it around the shop. But strictly use a machine torch on the table.

I never had this problem with the hypertherm, but i also remembered to order the interface cable and wire the raw arc voltage output.

didn't see your post so soon, if you have a thermal dynamics already, or are planning on one, not sure what you'll need but likely there is some kind of machine interface cable to control the plasma from the computer. Or some other piggyback parts required to be controlled by the computer. Maybe try giving (dare i say in this thread) Torchmate a call and asking them what is needed to run thermal dynamics by a computer, they are Thermal Dynamics dealer, and know their stuff really well, they have been helpful everytime i call.

This is all I need to get mine running and its ordered, just wire a 30 ohm resister across the outputs and hook it to the torch height control board for the "okay to move" signal...40:1 Current Transformer (http://www.mcmaster.com/#65795k85/=3n1ycc)

Or you can spend $175 for the PCB interface from a Thermal Dynamics dealer. :eek:

What you need to hook to the plasma:
Raw tip volts - easy
Workpiece (ground) - easy
Torch control - easy
"okay to move" - not so bad once you figure out what you need ;)

But today my Longevity 60A IGBT Continuous Pilot Arc unit came in, so I will get another torch height control board and wire that up.


Is there a machine torch that fits the Longevity or are you sticking with a hand torch?

Is there a machine torch that fits the Longevity or are you sticking with a hand torch?

Hand torch, I'd call A2Z and ask them about machine torch availability.

I actually received it yesterday, not Friday (tracking # confusion).:homer: Nicest construction I've seen for one of these units. And a big ass fan to keep the sucker cool. :smokin:

what's on that screen:D

what's on that screen:D
Twins! Screensaver is better, its all topless pics. :grinpimp:

Sitting on my arse waiting for UPS to get here with the current transformer...:shaking:

Keeping an eye on this thread, Really interested in the Gantry kit. :)

Its firing, moving and cutting. Thanks Wesley (Jeep07) for the phone call and help!

Gonna work on fine tuning this thing tomorrow night.

Alright guys, long story short. I forgot to add a earth ground to my table, and have water in my lines. It is going and here are some pics of a piece cut out with the kerf width not dialed in, travel speed not dialed in (draft on cut and dings on starts) and without a water separator (cut wavering). :homer:
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA027.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA029.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA030.jpg

Not bad :D

Now you need to get the Harbor Freight Compressed Air Dryer (http://www.4x4blog.com/harbor-freight-compressed-air-dryer-review/) !!
:D

Nice, your in business now.:smokin: If you don't get the HF dryer atleast get a motogaurd filter.

Keep tuning man it will get better.

I think I read in an earlier post you connected to the RED wires for Arc Volts (tip volts). Be aware the that MAY be pilot arc (it is on smaller Hypertherms and TD's) the ELECTRODE wires are usually the white ones. The pilot arc will give you voltage, but it does not vary with Arc Gap. It will basically make the THC non-functional. It won't hurt anything, It just doesn't work.

To make sure you are connected to the right wires use a DVM and check the voltage when you fire the torch in the air. Another way is to download the operators manual (service manual for Hypertherm) and look at the block schematic. It will have the wire color for the electrode. It's the center object in the torch. The pilot arc wire (if you have one) will be shown.

If you need help drop me a line with the plasma model # and I'll try and look it up.

TOM Caudle
www.CandCNC.com

I think I read in an earlier post you connected to the RED wires for Arc Volts (tip volts). Be aware the that MAY be pilot arc (it is on smaller Hypertherms and TD's) the ELECTRODE wires are usually the white ones. The pilot arc will give you voltage, but it does not vary with Arc Gap. It will basically make the THC non-functional. It won't hurt anything, It just doesn't work.

To make sure you are connected to the right wires use a DVM and check the voltage when you fire the torch in the air. Another way is to download the operators manual (service manual for Hypertherm) and look at the block schematic. It will have the wire color for the electrode. It's the center object in the torch. The pilot arc wire (if you have one) will be shown.

If you need help drop me a line with the plasma model # and I'll try and look it up.

TOM Caudle
www.CandCNC.com

Tom,
I swapped that wire from the Red (tip1) wire over to a black (electrode1) wire, you can see the red wire to the upper right. I noticed my volts weren't reading right on mach. Now you can see the volts moving and the torch height control functions accordingly.

This is a TD Cutmaster 52:
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA032.jpg

this thing is looking great, got any more updates?

this thing is looking great, got any more updates?

Yah, its working great! :D

Working on a couple files to cut out now; hard for me to remember to take pics sometimes. Since I work my normal 40-50 hr/wk job then come home and tinker on the side, eat then passout. :laughing:

Well setup the camera to take pics auto :flipoff2:

Roes looks great. I love the flipoff...

Been watching this thread here Roes. Staying out of it as much as I can to see what if any issues you come up with.



Get some pics!! :D

Okay, here have been the issues:
-Ground clamp bolt was loose on the Thermal Dynamics plasma :homer:
-Set screw that I RED LOCTITED came loose on my x-axis stepper causing poor cuts :homer:

I still have settings and parameters to play with to get the cuts and dross looking better.

But here is a pic of a coaster I made for my buddy that owns a Mustang Performance speed shop without ANY cleanup:
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA035.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA033.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA034.jpg

what thikness is that? and what amperage are you cutting at? I acutally cut some B's very similar to that, and had the same look on it, it was 3/16" at 80A.

I cut the same part, in 3/16 and a 40a tip. Night and day difference in cut quality. I have fine cut too, but haven't used it yet. Anyways looks like it's too much amperage.

I love the flipoff...

I've already given like four away, people love em!

One is considered good luck since I brought it over to my buddies lastnight for the Bears game and they won! :laughing:

what thikness is that? and what amperage are you cutting at? I acutally cut some B's very similar to that, and had the same look on it, it was 3/16" at 80A.

I cut the same part, in 3/16 and a 40a tip. Night and day difference in cut quality. I have fine cut too, but haven't used it yet. Anyways looks like it's too much amperage.

I've got it maxed at 60A with a 60A tip, I can drop amperage and clean it up and dial in feed. Just have been having "okay to move" signal issues, that it turns out were caused by a poor ground clamp connection. doh

1/8" steel @ 80 IPM.

I've already given like four away, people love em!

One is considered good luck since I brought it over to my buddies lastnight for the Bears game and they won! :laughing:

Not gonna pay it off giving them away... :flipoff2:

Not gonna pay it off giving them away... :flipoff2:

They required hand cutting due to the bad ground clamp to finish them, and you can see the flat sides from the loose set screw in the prior pics if you look closely. ;)

Yes some dialing in must be done there you can get it to make extremely nice cuts and well rounded circles. I take it you are using sheetcam and you are (or should) using radials in and outs for cutter comp?

I can't believe I didn't see this sooner.

Lemme get this straight, you live over yonder from me and have a nifty cool tool like this.

Hhmm. I suppose you're gonna make me learn one them new-fangled pretty-picture programs and quit using my Amish-CAD.

Looks nice, can't wait to learn how to draw pretty pics on the computer so I can finally get some stuff made!

PT
ps-I have a wheeler finally and another one being built.

Hhmm. I suppose you're gonna make me learn one them new-fangled pretty-picture programs and quit using my Amish-CAD.

Looks nice, can't wait to learn how to draw pretty pics on the computer so I can finally get some stuff made!

PT
ps-I have a wheeler finally and another one being built.

All I need is a dxf file, I think alot of people use Corel draw or Autocad. If you would bring the part or your Amish cad I can draw it up in minutes. ;)

My buddy moved from 'busco so I don't make it over that way anymore.

My buddy moved from 'busco so I don't make it over that way anymore.

I'm only an e-friend so I don't count?:flipoff2:

Keep tuning Roes, waiting to see what that thing can really do!

:cool2:

I'm only an e-friend so I don't count?:flipoff2:
The whole Rover infatuation thing is whats affecting your credibility...:laughing::flipoff2:

Keep tuning Roes, waiting to see what that thing can really do!

:cool2:

How are you coming on my rollers Tim? Crap, forgot that was only a dream I had lastnight, but I do hope to change the reality of that. :grinpimp:

40A tips will be here Thursday, but I'll be cutting some 1/4" bracketry tonight. I'll see if I can remember to post up some pics.

Do you have an air dryer, or motorgaurd filter, or anything to help with moisture? That's another major factor in cut quality. 60a on 1/4 will look a lot better too.

Do you have an air dryer, or motorgaurd filter, or anything to help with moisture?

Put a dryer on it Sunday, drained the tank as well. Anxious to get home and try it out on some 1/4.

The whole Rover infatuation thing is whats affecting your credibility...:laughing::flipoff2:

:lmao:



How are you coming on my rollers Tim?

Just waiting on your check.... :D

Just waiting on your check.... :D

Jeff Foxworthy: "A check? Well HELL YEAH I can write you a check! I thought you needed money!!"

I'm starting to get the hang of this, I think...
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/th_CNCPLASMA041.jpg (http://s244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/?action=view&current=CNCPLASMA041.flv)
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA037.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA038.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA040.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/zjtjxjfrontlower.jpg

Getting closer! Have you looked at your voltage settings for your plasma for thickness? I should have a list of feed rates for you tomorrow.

Love the solid model!

Getting closer! Have you looked at your voltage settings for your plasma for thickness? I should have a list of feed rates for you tomorrow.

Love the solid model!

Yup, for a 60A with a shielded tip it wants:
.3s pierce delay
.2 pierce height
.19 cut height
80 ipm feed rate
75 psi air presssure
125V

I moved the pierce height down to .15 and the cut height to be .1 and the feedrate to 65 ipm. The voltage setting was at 120 for the THC.

on that last cut what thickness material are you cutting?

on that last cut what thickness material are you cutting?

1/4"

You will soon be plasma masta :smokin:
Takes longer to learn to use your new toy than set it up heh.

The whole Rover infatuation thing is whats affecting your credibility...:laughing::flipoff2:


Watch it Bucko! Just because I'm not in the high rent district like you are!:flipoff2:

Well, cut out a mounting bracket for a bender stand then tried her out on some 1/8" aluminum. I would gather that it will cut better with a 40a tip rather than the 60a I have on it. And the speeds dialed in better... :goofball:
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA045.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA046.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA048.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/th_CNCPLASMA051.jpg (http://s244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/?action=view&current=CNCPLASMA051.flv)

what's the Gixxer bracket for?

Have you browsed the CNC Plas forums for speed / settings? Once you get it dialed in it will be perrrrrrty.... takes about 1-2 weeks of self learning if you don't have settings to go by from smoeone else.

what's the Gixxer bracket for?
A proto for a buddy that makes custom bike parts.

Have you browsed the CNC Plas forums for speed / settings? Once you get it dialed in it will be perrrrrrty.... takes about 1-2 weeks of self learning if you don't have settings to go by from smoeone else.

Not yet, be nice if somebody had hand torch numbers for a cutmaster52.

I like the 40 amp tips more! :D
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA052.jpg
Couple mishaps I'll tune up with a flapper wheel. Ornamental BS for my chiropractor to get a few free adjustments. :laughing:
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA053.jpg

Made from 1/4?

Well done, you are officially in business now.:smokin:

I'm guessing 1/8th if he cut them at 40a

Built the downdraft today, seems to work well. Definitely keeps the floor clean and is easy to pull out dropped pieces.
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA058.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA059.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA061.jpg

Make sure that stepper motor cable doesn't get caught around that fan housing and snag when that axis is moving back.

Downdraft table looks good.

Good catch, yes the hole in the gantry is for the stepper motor wire ;)

Make sure that stepper motor cable doesn't get caught around that fan housing and snag when that axis is moving back.

Downdraft table looks good.

I was standing over there the whole time it was cutting lastnight.
Good catch, yes the hole in the gantry is for the stepper motor wire ;)

Didn't see that in the instructions anywhere? :p I'll run it thru there tonight, easier than the doohickey I was gonna construct.

Looking great!!!!!!!!!!!!

Looking great!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks, its working great too!

Definitely a handy tool to make monotonous mounts out of. Here's a pic of a 1/16" sign I made for a buddies Dad who's throwing his annual hog roast next weekend, after I wrapped up mounting the atlas in a buddies buggy. :D
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA069.jpg

What software app did you create the sign in?

What software app did you create the sign in?

I use 3D modeling for everything that is drawn.

so whats new you cut anything else? you got it dailed in yet? any problems?

so whats new you cut anything else? you got it dailed in yet? any problems?

Still plugging along, here's some pics of some stuff thats been cut out recently.
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/Tommys%20Buggy/CNCPLASMA073.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/RoesWheel.jpg

I use 3D modeling for everything that is drawn.

You using solidworks, rhino or what?

You using solidworks, rhino or what?

Or what? :laughing:

Pro E

pm sent

also have you thought of making any basic tabs for shocks etc?

pm sent

also have you thought of making any basic tabs for shocks etc?

Because no one does this yet :laughing: :flipoff2:

not out my back door and not for what i consider reasonable prices
ntm all of the drop-off from his bigger stuff could be filled with little tabs and junk... i know if i had a plasma table, i would use every available inch of material for something... steel is cheep, but not as cheap as me

not out my back door and not for what i consider reasonable prices
ntm all of the drop-off from his bigger stuff could be filled with little tabs and junk... i know if i had a plasma table, i would use every available inch of material for something... steel is cheep, but not as cheap as me

I`m sure he can/will make them... I thought you meant for you to buy... $2.25 a bracket seems cheap to me?? (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/shock-brackets-shock-tabs-c-3.html?osCsid=7d4c62e19ac02b5a6c7d153b76f5a67e) especially if you can't do it yourself :evil:

I`m sure he can/will make them... I thought you meant for you to buy... $2.25 a bracket seems cheap to me?? (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/shock-brackets-shock-tabs-c-3.html?osCsid=7d4c62e19ac02b5a6c7d153b76f5a67e) especially if you can't do it yourself :evil:

i see where you are coming from, but like i said (im not bashin Dan, he has some great stuff) but he is in Cali... this guy lives like half a state from me... i like to support the little guy

someone chime in here because i am totally makin this up... by math i guess on a 4x8 sheet you can get 12 rows of 19 tabs thats 228 tabs x 2.25 is $513 there is no way that a sheet can cost more than $50! so $450+ profit from a sheet is pretty good

again these figures are all ball park... i would like to see stuff for $1 ea...

a little speed shop sells them for .99 ea, they are all the wrong shape and size, but still

i am not saying its a rip off, but i think the little guy can do a bit better, i always like to support local buisness!!!

How much would you say you have spent?
I would love to be able to make tabs at whim without sending out to get cut.....

How much would you say you have spent?
I would love to be able to make tabs at whim without sending out to get cut.....

Oh I would say about $5200ish plus your choice of plasma. Its definitely a nifty tool. ;)

I can make and provide any bracket etc, its just whether time allows. I work my 45+ hour a week job, then am always working on some kind of vehicle/buggy. Plus I'm starting to build my own buggy which is a big part of why I got the table. :D

someone chime in here because i am totally makin this up... by math i guess on a 4x8 sheet you can get 12 rows of 19 tabs thats 228 tabs x 2.25 is $513 there is no way that a sheet can cost more than $50! so $450+ profit from a sheet is pretty good


A sheet of quarter will run you around $100 now, I've seen it as high as $170 when prices are up.

You can slaughter a sheet and make tabs. But they are ALOT of time cleaning up (sanding and drilling if necessary). While I will and can do offroad stuff, my intent is to target markets with far greater margins.

I'm still getting $170 prices for 1/4. Scrap I'm seeing .35/pound prices. I gotta call another steel supplier and see if I can located $100/sheet.

Thought this was cool, cut it out for a buddy. Hopefully ripping up a sheet of quarter tomorrow for link mounts for a buggy so plan on posting more up then.
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/misc014.jpg

Thought this was cool, cut it out for a buddy. Hopefully ripping up a sheet of quarter tomorrow for link mounts for a buggy so plan on posting more up then.
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/misc014.jpg

wow price plus shipping to 61938 thats bad ass!

Cad work from scratch or did you work off of an existing drawing and just add in appropriate bridging?

Awesome btw

Cad work from scratch or did you work off of an existing drawing and just add in appropriate bridging?

Awesome btw

This one I got off plasmaspider.com, then scaled it to the size I wanted, wrote the g code and cut it out.

It would be pretty easy to do with CorelDRAW, which I plan on getting here soon.

love plasmaspider!! Nice work

wow price plus shipping to 61938 thats bad ass!

x2 to 67203

This thing just makes it too easy! :D
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/TOMMYSBUGGY048.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/TOMMYSBUGGY052.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/th_TOMMYSBUGGY053.jpg (http://s244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/?action=view&current=TOMMYSBUGGY053.flv)

I've got to add some thickness to the lettering and fine tune this file. But I thought it was worth sharing. :laughing:
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA074.jpg
And here's some buggy stuff too...
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/Tommys%20Buggy/TOMMYSBUGGY057.jpg

Showoff :flipoff2:

Looks like you dialed her in very well!

Showoff :flipoff2:
Nuh uh! :goofball:
Looks like you dialed her in very well!
Thanks! I don't know how I ever lived without one of these!

What I love most about this machine, is that I spend more time sitting drinking beer perfecting shit. Rather than tracing, cutting, grinding, fitting, grinding etc. :beer:

Really liked this pic since it shows alot of nice cuts on 1/4.
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/Tommys%20Buggy/TOMMYSBUGGY093.jpg

Those cuts look like laser! What settings did you use for those?

60A tip, wide open. 50 ipm, .15 pierce and cut heights with a 1.2 s pierce delay.

Damn you are on the wrong side of Indiana!

PM Sent.

Those 1/4" cuts came out nice, hope I can get mine that dialed in. I just scored a 5'x7' sheet of 1/4" on CL for cheap

Looks like you are not using the limit switch that was supplied for the Z axis, is it not needed?

Got my table all set up except for the boom and then wiring the card to my Hypertherm, still need to figure out the best way to mount the card and route the cable to it.

I didn't install any of the limit switches. Bulltear designed the gantry so it can't crash, and once you get good at running it its not needed. ;)

I have my motor tuning for the x,y & a axis set at 300 ipm @ 20 for the acceleration also.

It definitely makes life much easier. :smokin:
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/Tommys%20Buggy/TOMMYSBUGGY125.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/Tommys%20Buggy/TOMMYSBUGGY127.jpg

Bad ass work for damn sure. God I need me one of these tables.

Thought this was cool, cut it out for a buddy. Hopefully ripping up a sheet of quarter tomorrow for link mounts for a buggy so plan on posting more up then.
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/misc014.jpg
Bears? Travis? :lol:

Bears? Travis? :lol:
Travis has the biggest one cut out yet. To put on the wall behind the bar in the new 40x60 getting built at his place. :grinpimp:

Does the quality of the plate make a difference? I have heard of using pickled steel plate, less scale, cleaner cuts?

I'm sure it wouldn't hurt, thinking it may help cut down on smoke/dust?

I need to invest in a real nice water separator, then things will be about as good as they can get.

Had to paint Christmas presents for my family tonight, and I have to add that this downdraft table rocks as a paint fume exhaust as well. Primered everything then just held stuff over the top with hooks for the final coat. Just hope its dry and ready to throw in the trunk in the morning. :laughing:
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/cncplasma078.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/cncplasma080.jpg

Is this not a good idea!? :eek::flipoff2:
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/cncplasma079.jpg

Upgraded to a Thermal Dynamics A40 with a mechanized torch this weekend, its better for many reasons. Modified the gantry, and its nice to not have to pull the gun to change consumables. Refrigerated air dryer and new compressor are next on the list.
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/cncplasma087.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/cncplasma085.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/cncplasma090.jpg

What about exhaust system so you don't die or did you add one and I missed it , pic looks like smoke lingering around :D

This torch definitely cuts faster and throws more smoke. You think thats alot of smoke, I'll have to take a picture showing the cloud outside sometime. I'm sick of paying taxes anyways. :flipoff2:

The first pic was taken a few minutes after it was done cutting, see much smoke? ;)

add water bed and you wont see any smoke/dust only steam

after i added my waterbed the shop stayed really clean.. its really really worth it..

no dust outside of the shop or inside..

add water bed and you wont see any smoke/dust only steam

after i added my waterbed the shop stayed really clean.. its really really worth it..

no dust outside of the shop or inside..

I concur.

Or a nice down draft system.

Or a nice down draft system.

That is a down draft table. Water table is the only way to go IMO.

BTW Rox I copied your machine torch holder today. I'd been wanting to redo mine and hadn't came up with a good design. Seeing your's made things easier. I'll put the files I came up on FFE later tonight.

Water bed tables are nice, but I don't want the hassle of one and the smoke clears out quick. I have another fan I could add if I felt it necessary.

Glad to hear it helped, I really like the redesign with the machine torch. I had instances where pieces would kick up and snag the old hand torch bracketry if you weren't keeping an eye on things.

That is a down draft table. Water table is the only way to go IMO.

BTW Rox I copied your machine torch holder today. I'd been wanting to redo mine and hadn't came up with a good design. Seeing your's made things easier. I'll put the files I came up on FFE later tonight.

Keyword in what you said.

The table he has may be technically able to be used as a down draft, but from the pic I don't think he's running a complete down draft system. If he is, and that's what you meant then Nevermind.


IE: Enclosed under the table, with fan expelling air down, out and away.

Water bed tables are nice, but I don't want the hassle of one and the smoke clears out quick. I have another fan I could add if I felt it necessary.

Glad to hear it helped, I really like the redesign with the machine torch. I had instances where pieces would kick up and snag the old hand torch bracketry if you weren't keeping an eye on things.

A water table under the slats & down draft is a nice combo too, and easy to make and handle.

Keyword in what you said.

The table he has may be technically able to be used as a down draft, but from the pic I don't think he's running a complete down draft system. If he is, and that's what you meant then Nevermind.


IE: Enclosed under the table, with fan expelling air down, out and away.

From that pic thats how it looks to me.
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA058.jpg

From that pic thats how it looks to me.
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/CNC%20PLASMA/CNCPLASMA058.jpg

I missed that one :flipoff2:


Or, more likely, I forgot :laughing:

Or, more likely, I forgot :laughing:

Unpossible!!! :flipoff2:

gonna be ordering a 4x8 gantry kit this week. From everything shown in this thread, it only took u a few months of tinkering to get evrything dialed in.
thanks for the installments

Thanks, feel free to pm me with any questions or post them in here.

I am very confident that I could build and have a table rocking & rolling in a weekend now. Just picked up a new compressor, began to notice my pierces were subpar once my Crapsman pressure got lower due to what I think is low cfm from a worn out oil-less pump. About rattle the eardrums out of your head too. :laughing:

I believe we have 2 customers that built a water table on their existing table using our 4x4 print. I dont think it would be too difficult to produce when you already have the table up. The water tables on our big 5x10 tables can get pretty heavy with a 10 gauge bottom but a thin stainless water tray with slat holders and the right support would also work fine. The 4x4 and 4x8 have much more than 4 feet of travel in the short axis so if you build a water tray you have to make sure your beyond the travel limit of the machine or you could slice up your water tray.

BTW your parts look nice!

Here is a Thermal Dynamics 101 that just left with a 5x10 table. This is how it was wired for DTHC. This is probly much like how you wired your TD plasma

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/101wiring.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/101wiring2.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/101wiring3.jpg

Here is a Thermal Dynamics 101 that just left with a 5x10 table. This is how it was wired for DTHC. This is probly much like how you wired your TD plasma

Yup thats how I was getting the okay to move signal on the old cutmaster 52. The new A40 I just got has start/stop and okay to move already ready to plug into in the back of it. Just had to run a couple wires inside to get workpiece & raw tip volts. Made it too easy! :smokin:

Here is a Thermal Dynamics 101 that just left with a 5x10 table. This is how it was wired for DTHC. This is probly much like how you wired your TD plasma

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/101wiring.jpg


I have the 101 as well and I had to loop the wire through mine to make it sensitive enough for using lower amp settings. I also adjusted the IO card from CandCNC but still had to loop it.

I didn't realize there were two terminals for raw tip volts. EVerything i was finding gave me the pilot arc tip volts. I went straight to the hot wire leading to the torch for raw tip volts.

So you went twice around the hole?

So you went twice around the hole?

Yes, The white wire would go through 1 time and then loop around the outside of the CT then back through for a 2nd time. This was a recommendation from Tom C..

Yes, The white wire would go through 1 time and then loop around the outside of the CT then back through for a 2nd time. This was a recommendation from Tom C..

I believe Tom told me there is also something you can remove from the board to boost the reception? Didn't end up doing it though since I got the TD A40 with cnc outputs.

ok got my table yesterday. now its time to put it all together.

ok got my table yesterday. now its time to put it all together.

Well don't just stand there, get crackin'! :D

Be glad to help yah if you have any issues.

here is my question. was i suppose to get the voltage transformer for arc voltage with my kit. i have the TD101 automated. i havent seen anything on the bulltear forum or on here auto the setup for the TD101 automated. ive looked through all the boxes and couldnt not find it.


Here is a Thermal Dynamics 101 that just left with a 5x10 table. This is how it was wired for DTHC. This is probly much like how you wired your TD plasma

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/101wiring.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/101wiring2.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/bulltear/101wiring3.jpg

There are 3 main connections you need:

Start/Stop-cnc interface will provide

Okay to move - will not require the current transformer to pick up the signal if you have the automated version with the cnc interface cable that comes out the back of the machine

Raw tip voltage - two wires that you will run inside the machine, one will pick up the torch ground, and then the other hooked up to an "electrode1" connection, at least it does on the cutmaster cutters.

here is my question. was i suppose to get the voltage transformer for arc voltage with my kit. i have the TD101 automated. i havent seen anything on the bulltear forum or on here auto the setup for the TD101 automated. ive looked through all the boxes and couldnt not find it.

If you need a current transformer to hook up a 101 we will send you one no charge.

Hey Roes what did you end up on your table for accel? 20 on the X and Y?

Hey Roes what did you end up on your table for accel? 20 on the X and Y?

Forgot to look when I left for work this morning. But I believe they are set at 25.

EDIT
Just went thru the last few pages and saw on post 121, x,y,a are at 300 ipm & 20 accel.

Oh just figured I'd show off how awesome having a Bulltear plasma table is, just about done with a rig I'm building for a buddy. :D
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/James%204Runner/James4Runner160.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/James%204Runner/James4Runner165.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/James%204Runner/James4Runner155.jpg

You need some dimple dies to go with the speed holes. :grinpimp:

So... you gonna shave the lip off that pig?

You need some dimple dies to go with the speed holes. :grinpimp:

So... you gonna shave the lip off that pig?

I have a 7 piece barbwire set. :D I use them here and there, but for mounts I like to use just enough beef rather than assaulting them on each quadrant with 1/8".

I'm gonna let the owner shave the pig on a rainy day when he's bored. :flipoff2: We should start calling that lip the axles "beaver". :p

Built the downdraft today, seems to work well. Definitely keeps the floor clean and is easy to pull out dropped pieces.

How did the down draft work? any youtube videos? do you have a channel? I found this post from a google search. I came over from cnczone.com to ask you how you liked it. I was thinking of using a 2000 cfm blower type fan for a 5'x12' plasma table. check out my build. any help would be amazing!! Thanks!!!
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/plasma_edm_other_similar_machine/133674-diyengineer_4x12_80_20_cnc.html#post983272

diyengineer

I do have a youtube channel, but no vid's on it of the plasma. I've posted a few in here, but they probably don't show much in regards to smoke. The 1000 cfm downdraft works great if the top of the bed is pretty well covered. Once the sheet starts to get swiss cheesed it looses vacuum and this is where a bigger than necessary fan would help. The other thing is the steel surface condition, scaled steel throws ALOT more smoke. For example, a pickled and oiled sheet of 1/4" throws less than a scaled sheet of 1/8".

I plan on doing a lot of Aluminum. Does that have a lot of smoke? I planned on using a blower, but i will use 8"-12" galvanized sheet metal pipe with slits cut in the sides of it to channel the "suction". This way i can stretch my 2000cfm effectively through out the 5'x12' table. The slits in the sides will prevent parts from falling into the suction tube, and the heavier than air debris will fall to the bottom and not into the duct work. :P

I would like to use a few filters to catch as much of that crud as i can. Have you tried any filters?

I plan on doing a lot of Aluminum. Does that have a lot of smoke? I planned on using a blower, but i will use 8"-12" galvanized sheet metal pipe with slits cut in the sides of it to channel the "suction". This way i can stretch my 2000cfm effectively through out the 5'x12' table. The slits in the sides will prevent parts from falling into the suction tube, and the heavier than air debris will fall to the bottom and not into the duct work. :P

I would like to use a few filters to catch as much of that crud as i can. Have you tried any filters?

I've done a bit of aluminum, more fine particles than smoke. I pop my door about 2' and the smoke/debris gets blown out and gets whisped away. Anything that falls on the sidewalk around the house gets swept off into the gravel driveway. I originally thought about a filter than decided it wasn't necessary.

You could run two tubes, one for the front and one for the rear zones. That way you could have a shutter valve to increase vacuum at whichever end you're cutting. Just a thought, I know some production tables have this style of plumbing.

Nice, thank you for the help. Your picture popped up after a google search and has inspired me. :)