First time building a traction bar on my jeep and I have a question before I weld everything in. I am not sure if the front shackle is going to be too close to the back of the tcase.:confused: From what I figure the moving forces are created by the axle twisting up and down so that shackle should not move forward or back, is this correct? Here are some pics to show where I have it tacked up....

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh148/silva_jon/tracbar.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh148/silva_jon/tracbar1.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh148/silva_jon/tracbar2.jpg

nobody knows???

nobody knows???

The only way you are going to find out is to cycle your suspension and check it out. If you find shiny spots on the case it is a problem. :flipoff2:

With that being said... That looks like tons of room to me and I doubt you'd have a problem. Weldered it up!

EDIT: You should weld in some triangulated supports in the middle of the bar so it doesn't collapse the first time you go wheelin.

This is how I did mine.

http://thedoubleduke.com/pics/Jeep/100_1289.jpg

yup I knew someone would suggest it, but I allready planned on doing that igzact thing with plating in the middle. I think only cycling the suspension will not show me the loads I will see under offroad conditions. I was hoping to hear from someone who set their shackle end close like mine is.

Maybe I'm missing something, but couldn't you just shorten the bar that you have the bushing tacked to, therefore pulling the shackle back away from the tcase a little? I think it should still work like it's supposed to, right?

yup I knew someone would suggest it, but I allready planned on doing that igzact thing with plating in the middle. I think only cycling the suspension will not show me the loads I will see under offroad conditions. I was hoping to hear from someone who set their shackle end close like mine is.

I guess I can't help you there. I think about those things before building them. :flipoff2:

If you think about it the shackle will swing side to side under articulation. It will move forward towards the case when both sides compress at the same time. Drop one of your rear bolts out of the spring and lower the jeep onto your bump stops. Check your clearances.

Or, you could hook up a big ratchet strap and loop it under the axle to 2 points on the frame and compress your suspension that way. Nobody can tell you with a definitive answer that it will or won't hit. So... I offer the same advice. Looks like you have plenty of room. :)

Maybe I'm missing something, but couldn't you just shorten the bar that you have the bushing tacked to, therefore pulling the shackle back away from the tcase a little? I think it should still work like it's supposed to, right?

nonsense. Get that logical thinking out of here. :flipoff2:

Maybe I'm missing something, but couldn't you just shorten the bar that you have the bushing tacked to, therefore pulling the shackle back away from the tcase a little? I think it should still work like it's supposed to, right?

Yes and I did that a bit allready but I dont know at what point the shackle is sitting at too much of an angle?

I guess I can't help you there. I think about those things before building them. :flipoff2:

And this is why it is only tacked together...

If you think about it the shackle will swing side to side under articulation. It will move forward towards the case when both sides compress at the same time. Drop one of your rear bolts out of the spring and lower the jeep onto your bump stops. Check your clearances.

Or, you could hook up a big ratchet strap and loop it under the axle to 2 points on the frame and compress your suspension that way. Nobody can tell you with a definitive answer that it will or won't hit. So... I offer the same advice. Looks like you have plenty of room. :)

I will have to try and compress the springs didnt really think of that angle. That's the advice I was looking for thanks!

Yes and I did that a bit allready but I dont know at what point the shackle is sitting at too much of an angle?

Maybe you do a combination of shortening the traction bar and rotating the shackle mounting 90 degrees toward the rear, if that makes sense. The shackle should still be vertical then.

I believe the rear axle moves back under compression, right guys? Shouldn't hit in my opinion.

I have a similar setup. I'll send a pic if I remember.

Could move the traction bar to the other side of the axle and not have to worry about hitting the transfer case.

Could move the traction bar to the other side of the axle and not have to worry about hitting the transfer case.

Yeah I really didnt want to mess with my exaust.

Maybe you do a combination of shortening the traction bar and rotating the shackle mounting 90 degrees toward the rear, if that makes sense. The shackle should still be vertical then.

From what I read on here most people say the traction bar needs to be as long as possible. So that is where it ended up I really dont want to move it unless I have no other options but there is not much room under there.

where did u get the shackle from?

Isn't that supposed to go on the passenger side of the axle?...

Isn't that supposed to go on the passenger side of the axle?...

Which is it?:flipoff2:

Which is it?:flipoff2:



does it matter?? not being a dick, just want to know for when i build mine

does it matter?? not being a dick, just want to know for when i build mine

The thought is to counter act the rotational forces of the engine torque. So putting it on the passenger side is what most people go with. I did that because it worked out in packaging. I say run what fits.

mine is passenger side as well

I dont think it matters which side I have seen both. Mine is located on the driver side.

where did u get the shackle from?

I made it. Very simple bent 1/4" steel two places to make a 'U' then drilled a hole and welded in a nut then threaded in a heim with a jam nut.

The thought is to counter act the rotational forces of the engine torque. So putting it on the passenger side is what most people go with.
You are going to have to explain this one....

First time building a traction bar on my jeep and I have a question before I weld everything in.
Is this for a mud truck?

If you see any rocks, why would you place the bottom mount so low?

Your mounts are at 2 & 5 O'clock, this will cause more travel in your shackle.
Might want to look at people who try more 10 & 4 O'clock positions if your worried about travel.


It is possible to build a traction bar that does not limit travel.
One sure way to tell, tack it in an hit a ram. Then disconnect the shackle and hit the ramp again.

You are going to have to explain this one....

The best that I can.... Look at this pic.

https://www.msu.edu/user/oakranda/mustang/wheelie.jpg

Which side is the power going to? Passenger side. The majority of people that think they know WTF is going on will tell you to put the traction bar on the passenger side to combat the roll produced there. Does it matter in crawling? Probably not as much. That is just the theory I searched out prior to installing my traction bar.

I can also see where putting the traction bar on the wrong side can allow the suspension to twist.

I personally think the OP is over thinking the situation and should burn it in. Even it if does hit it isn't difficult to cut it, grind it, and move it back an inch.

You are going to have to explain this one....

counter acts the rotational force... or some say... fit best for me

Is this for a mud truck?

If you see any rocks, why would you place the bottom mount so low?

Your mounts are at 2 & 5 O'clock, this will cause more travel in your shackle.
Might want to look at people who try more 10 & 4 O'clock positions if your worried about travel.


It is possible to build a traction bar that does not limit travel.
One sure way to tell, tack it in an hit a ram. Then disconnect the shackle and hit the ramp again.

nope its for rocks. That is just the way they ended up once I set it up at the angle I needed. I may have to think about moving that side around as well. As for movement I flexed out my suspension and only saw about
1/2"-3/4" so not even close. Thanks!

Those shackles move very little. I think you will be fine.

The best that I can.... Look at this pic.
I help work on a 91 stang that ran 10.7's in the 90's...

I still don't see how which side it's on could affect anything. The top is loose with the shackle, and would only prevent the axle twisting.

As for movement I flexed out my suspension and only saw about
1/2"-3/4" so not even close. Thanks!
Post up some pics of it flexing out..

Travel means different things to different people.
If your shocks are limiting travel, I'd remove them an flex it.
- always keep an eye on the brake lines... don't want them being your limiting strap.

I'm a fan of flex, it's not that hard to get a lot of flex... but it takes a little work.

I still don't see how which side it's on could affect anything. The top is loose with the shackle, and would only prevent the axle twisting.

Drivetrain torque pushes the RH side of the frame down...

I've always heard passenger side also, and it makes sense to me..

Drivetrain torque pushes the RH side of the frame down...

In cars with tight suspensions, it also twists the shit out of the body. I used to work on a Grand National that was twisted about 3/4" just behind the driverside B-pillar on the roof. Shit was awesome, hah.

I help work on a 91 stang that ran 10.7's in the 90's...


..and I'm willing to bet that Mustang had either a plexi windshield or none at all for the same reason I mentioned above. Foxbodies with more than 500hp (I think that's the right number, at least) are notorious for popping glass under torque load.