ok, i know im always 5 or 6 years behind whats new and exciting , but ive finally decided to GO LINK!
ive melted my brain searching so don't even say it:flipoff2: the most dumbed down threads on the subject will give you nightmares at first, but i'm finally wrapping my mind around it and have my plan.....Trevor at WFO is pointing me the right direction design and geometry basics so it should be what i'm shooting for.

having said that, what i would like is some feedback from those that have allready done this....specificly my friends in the cruiser world(so as to not turn it into a pissing contest about who knows the most about links:shaking:).

stuff like anything you found out later that you would have done differently , how does it wheel....improvement draw backs etc.

i plan on a dual triangulated 4 link with coils (for now).......shooting for 108 -110" wb (at 102 now)...for those of you that dont know its 1ton 60 14 bolt with 42 iroks.....leavin the frame and most of the tub intact for now so no buggy back, however i have been reading some builds that went that direction and got some ideas, you know who you are:flipoff2:

POST PICS IF YOU GOTT M!!

i'm gathering parts , so i will start the thread as soon as i get it together
thanks:grinpimp:
glenn

Glenn, fwiw the major issue is the frame rails are in the way of the ideal layout for coilovers. Personally I like the tj heep coilover towers that get frenched into the frame rail. I've been itchin to do this as well. Post pics as you go please.

Glenn, fwiw the major issue is the frame rails are in the way of the ideal layout for coilovers. .

yah john, i'll think coilover later when there is NO frame in the way:D....... i was hearing 4" tj coils or even 80 series coils, the jury is still out on that part.

Are you planning to XX the rear alone or both the rear and the front?

The reason I ask is that I went through a lot of mind-F dealing with this, not long ago.

If you're thinking to 4-link the front and you don't put a crossmember under the tranny to take the front lowers, it's really more of a /V\. You have to decide between tossing away ground clearance for a cross member with good triangulation, or tossing away the triangulation of the lowers, and keeping a flatter belly.

If you go with /\/\, then you still have to make some decisions. Either you triangulate the crap out of those uppers (with a wide base and bring the axle ends in close to center) or else you're going to be asking a lot out of your link material for lateral stabilization. If you make nice big strong links and pick good points to get a triangle, then you have to worry about those links clearing the oil pan. You may be sacrificing up-travel.

I went with a pseudo-single-triangulated front system and ran the front axle out forward so that the uppers were broadly triangulated AND cleared the oil pan. I really got this: /\/\ and not this: |\ /| .

In order to be able to pull that off, I had to chop the frame off forward of the firewall. I tubed all that out as a way to get the frame rails up out of the way where the links needed to rise up.

If you want to keep the frame intact, consider 3 linking the front with a panhard bar. This would give you the ability to run the axle up closer to the frame at maximal up travel. Otherwise, you're going to be looking at raising your belly, limiting your up travel and maybe having sub-assemblies hanging down.

I'm just sayin'...

I really scratched my head about this for quite a while, and although I'm not saying I got the solution, I sure learned to appreciate the puzzle!

Glenn if you are going that route then PM Mace on this board and search under his name. He gots the build and alot of detail on the springs to use, he's your best info source IMO as he has done this exact thing to his 40. Although he did have a phrase named after him, maybe you've heard people say " he maced it" . FWIW , IMO do coilover now, Genright has a nice kit check em out online. The coilover towers that french into frame are in the pic on their site for their 4 link kit. By the time you fab spring buckets and top side spring mounts and limit straps you will wish youd just done coilover.
All that spring mounting shit just gets in the way and adds weight. IMO.

For sure on the coils if you want to keep the tub.

Looking forward to it!

Stock TJ front coils fit very well under the tub and allow for some good flex. Not a lot of lift tho.

What about something like this so that you can go coilover

(possible 35% on page)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=616611&highlight=inboard&page=34

next page that shows finished product
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=616611&highlight=inboard&page=35

EDIT:

Few more of the same by Booger Weldz and 408jigga:

Link to pics:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8316158&postcount=8
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8316163&postcount=9
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8316171&postcount=10

Doc...... i'm only doing the rear for now. im looking forward to the day i can go all the way,,,,i've been following and drooling on your build. the key points you brought up did answer some Qs i had when i was thinking about the fronts. i'll be refering back to this thread for that info when the time comes.....

pees, money says i have to stick with the coils for now. nolan hit the nail on the head.

mace i think i might have a source for the front tj coils , i'll be looking into that, and your build. i'll have to look for it in your archives later tomarrow when i hva e more time ..... thanks

one question about the coils... do they handle a bit of a load, say camping gear and such? about half my wheelin is loaded with the junk, the other half is base camp. not lookinf for a lift just even with my front stock leaves soa.... maybe a very slight rake to handle the extra weight.

thanks again

What about something like this so that you can go coilover

(possible 35% on page)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=616611&highlight=inboard&page=34

next page that shows finished product
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=616611&highlight=inboard&page=35

EDIT:

Few more of the same by Booger Weldz and 408jigga:

Link to pics:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8316158&postcount=8
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8316163&postcount=9
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8316171&postcount=10


thats nice, and the coilovers are ok too:D
i would love to except the cost of the coilovers puts me way past budget....it'll happen some day:smokin:

thats nice, and the coilovers are ok too:D
i would love to except the cost of the coilovers puts me way past budget....it'll happen some day:smokin:

lol :D

Go w/ the fat rear lifted TJ coils. I run the 2 1/2" one's. You'll have to figure out your height, so tack your buckets on the axle housing & bottom of frame & see how it levels out. Borrow some 3" coils for starters. I run the fat one's cuz I figured it would help side to side movement & I don't need a sway bar.

I have built a few rear 4 links, and of all the ones I built, the best was in the XX design. It really does locate your rear axle very well, and it does not crab walk at all when setup properly.

As for suspension material, I am a fan of the 1/4 ellip for a cheap "hold you over for now" way to go. I always ran F350 springs chopped down with a solid mount on the frame. I would load my old Flatty and CJ5 up all the way and not sag at all. I will be doing this most likely on my next build as well.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=387379&stc=1&d=1219796312

dIma

I have built a few rear 4 links, and of all the ones I built, the best was in the XX design. It really does locate your rear axle very well, and it does not crab walk at all when setup properly.

As for suspension material, I am a fan of the 1/4 ellip for a cheap "hold you over for now" way to go. I always ran F350 springs chopped down with a solid mount on the frame. I would load my old Flatty and CJ5 up all the way and not sag at all. I will be doing this most likely on my next build as well.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=387379&stc=1&d=1219796312

dIma


Man that's an old pic!

What's your budget & what kind of shop / tools do you have to work with? I built this rear set-up for less than $150. It handles like a dream and I've yet to break a single thing (back there).
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj228/Torkliftrob/008.jpg
I posted the build and got 20 pages of ass-hats telling me I couldn't build a 3-link. It was gonna break, I was gonna kill my kids, blah, blah. It's been a year and we've HAMMERED it. I haven't even broken a U-joint, nothing. If you're up for a little fab, and aren't building a show-rig, you can save a ton of cash.

Man that's an old pic!

About 5-6 years old now... Man, I miss that Jeep something horrible.

dIma

For what its worth, I am running front 80 series 3" OME's for the rear and they feel about perfect as far as stiffness goes ,not too stiff not to soft :smokin: might be worth lookin at as far as being able to load it up with gear with out much sag. Also I am at 23.5" frame height w 39's, check my build for how I mounted the stock 80 series front buckets for them in the rear. My design was built around the plan to keep the full tub originally :D

AWESOME guys! this is the type of stuff i was hoping to here. i have lots of spring options i see. i picked up some of my rod ends today. i'll see if i can come up with a decent cell phone pick as my camera is at home........and thats not where i am.:shaking:

keep it coming!!!!!

more pics if you got m'

thanks again

Glenn,
I know you followed my build. I must say after 4 years of wheeling it I am very happy with it's performance. Angled lowers and parallel uppers. I was able to keep my tub & frame and run coilovers.
I have only made 2 changes to it from it's original form. At first the Cross member was to thin wall and the lowers pushed it in an inch or so. I upgraded that to 1.75 .250 and it has not moved.
Both the upper and lower links were 1.5 .250 with ¾X 5/8 heims. I bent the lowers but never broke anything. I redid the lowers to 1.75 .250 with 7/8 X ¾ and have been very happy.
I am quite sure my rig has been put to some of the most punishing test of most rigs anywhere.

What I would consider Glen is running the coils you choose not to stiff and run 2.0 fox air shock for shocks. Then you can set your ride height with gear by changing your nitrogen charge. The fox will be your bump as well, one less thing to buy. If you can swing it go 1 1/4 on the heims and be done with it forever. You will be stoked on the long run. If not 7/8 3/4's. Listen to Trevor, but you already know that.:D

What I would consider Glen is running the coils you choose not to stiff and run 2.0 fox air shock for shocks. Then you can set your ride height with gear by changing your nitrogen charge. The fox will be your bump as well, one less thing to buy. If you can swing it go 1 1/4 on the heims and be done with it forever. You will be stoked on the long run. If not 7/8 3/4's. Listen to Trevor, but you already know that.:D

tom,...... trevor and beau schooled me today on links:smokin: your namw came up more than once:D

i told them how much $$ i had to throw at the project and i walked out with four 7/8" heims for the uppers and two (out of the four i need ) 1 1/4" for the lowers.......

lower links will be 2"x .250 dom.... hi misalignment spacers are for 3/4 bolts
upper links will be 1 3/4" x .250 dom....hmspacers for 5/8 bolts

no turning back now:smokin:

get it, I would really consider the air shock combo

Glenn,
I know you followed my build. I must say after 4 years of wheeling it I am very happy with it's performance. Angled lowers and parallel uppers. I was able to keep my tub & frame and run coilovers.
I have only made 2 changes to it from it's original form. At first the Cross member was to thin wall and the lowers pushed it in an inch or so. I upgraded that to 1.75 .250 and it has not moved.
Both the upper and lower links were 1.5 .250 with ¾X 5/8 heims. I bent the lowers but never broke anything. I redid the lowers to 1.75 .250 with 7/8 X ¾ and have been very happy.
I am quite sure my rig has been put to some of the most punishing test of most rigs anywhere.

justin yours was one of the first builds i refered to when i started thinking about this....... great example of keeping the tub and frame, but most of all you have wheeled the crap outta that thing and it works!

i was wondering how you managed to run a non cv driveline in the rear with it being soo short? 1410 is a beast!:D

get it, I would really consider the air shock combo



i am!:D the idea fits with the springs beau was talking about today...... kingcoil , coil springs only.... he made plates that capture them top and bottm...... lots of spring rate choices.....sounds interesting especialy with the fox idea.....

i also got the link inserts and hi misalignment spacers and jam nuts...............................they are a thing of beauty:D




whoops did i get the 1350 cv yoke in the pic too:flipoff2:.... since im hoping to 4:1 the dana 300 im gonna put the hd output in too (which ive had for 2 years)..... sooooo why not upgrade to the 1350...... gotta get my DL retubed longer anyway:smokin:

About 5-6 years old now... Man, I miss that Jeep something horrible.

dIma

dima you got any pics of your links . well, any more pics?

Daaaaammnn!!! that $20 bill is huge!!!:D

your spring thoughts are kinda what I did on the front of mine progressive rate coils with captures top and bottom..the air shock idea sounds perfect!!:smokin:

Tom's thought on the air shock makes sense expecialy for $. You would never have to go to a coilover.

Tom's thought on the air shock makes sense expecialy for $. You would never have to go to a coilover.

No kidding.. that is an awesome idea!

ok. ive researched the fox airshock and there are quite ba few diff styles.... which ones are we talking about? the least expensive / most effective ones are what i'm after........unfortunatley budget is an issue:D is there other brands that cost less without giving up quality?



im liking the idea....... just need to know how i can do it affordably. ...wel sort of....... maybe in stages with a lesser shock at first, or......?

hit me!:p

ok. ive researched the fox airshock and there are quite ba few diff styles.... which ones are we talking about? the least expensive / most effective ones are what i'm after........unfortunatley budget is an issue:D is there other brands that cost less without giving up quality?



im liking the idea....... just need to know how i can do it affordably. ...wel sort of....... maybe in stages with a lesser shock at first, or......?

hit me!:p

what about the Ballistic, Radflo, Race runner lines for starts there possibly might be something in the AFCO line as well

Glenn I know about the budget thing, but spending the money right the first time always saves. Don't do it in stages. or re-do. Gather what you need to get r done and we can move the warpony out the way and do it , say after christmas , you never know what Santa will bring.

Keeler Glenn,
If I was to do this (wouldn't even consider it:shaking:) I would for sure listen to the mad man (Tom).

Glad to see you're not fucking around and going with the right parts the first time. Guess we won't be confusing our rigs anymore, at least next year!

Glenn I know about the budget thing, but spending the money right the first time always saves. Don't do it in stages. or re-do. Gather what you need to get r done and we can move the warpony out the way and do it , say after christmas , you never know what Santa will bring.

AFTER CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!!!!!!! ARE YOU CRAZY!!!!!!!!!!!!!

well i hope i don't have to waite that long:D:D

Keeler Glenn,
If I was to do this (wouldn't even consider it:shaking:) I would for sure listen to the mad man (Tom).

Glad to see you're not fucking around and going with the right parts the first time. Guess we won't be confusing our rigs anymore, at least next year!


yah during our planning at WFO , Tom's name came up a few times in reference to the far extreme of things:laughing:

hey there still red:D

Mike Lange in out tahoe group has a nice mini truck that was at the Springs during Rubithon. Its the blue one that was at dirty dozen. He had recently built a new flatbed that came out really nice. Anyway he has 39 irocs on it with Rubicon Express cherokee springs front and rear. It's super low and stable and a great wheeler. The springs flattened out started to work good, lost all his uptravel and had no adjustablity when he loaded up his camping gear and sagged the ass. He before Rubithon put on 2.0 fox air shock replacing the rs9000 that he hated . I can't remember the charge he went with but he was super pumped on the idea and said it road well. I didn't ride in it personally, seems like a great idea. 14's airs should be easy to come across. Complaine has some in the rear of his buggy that he shortened mounted next to his coilover as bump stops.

ok. i went on polyperformance they have a large selection of fox.......soo are we talking about the 2" noncoilover shock that looks like a standard shock for $150..... or the 2" version that is $250......sounds like the $250 one is adjustable .......

thanks for your patience:D

edit..... would someone go on www.f-o-a.com and show me which one of these fit the bill:D

http://polyperformance.com/shop/Fox-2.0-Air-Shock-p-102.html

this is what My friend used in addition to his leafs. I think it would be nice to use with the king coils. Try to find some used one's. Has to be alot out their

thanks Tom ....that clears things up.

i did a search for fox airs in for sale ...... there were bunches of m....i will be looking for some when the time comes.

update Glenn???... we need updates! :grinpimp:

update Glenn???... we need updates! :grinpimp:

x2!

so far still buying parts......picked up the other two 1.25" heims this weekend $$$$ next i'm going to get the truss/upper link mount that WFO sells. i liked it better than btf and want to keep the project with my local shop:smokin:

one more part of the change is im putting the srw 14 bolt hubs on the rear.... and 1.5" spacers on the front 60(mines been cut down 4.5")

i want it longer,bit wider,and maybe a little lower......i can't waite to wheelthe 42's with this setup..........

wms front 68".....rear 67".......109" wb

guess im compensating:flipoff2:

you mean its not done yet :D whats the hold up??

dima you got any pics of your links . well, any more pics?

Dude, I dont have the pics, but I can explain them. The uppers are your standard link placement (top of axle to inside of frame). The lowers go from the outside of the axle to a spot right under the tcase output. I had all my links the same length. All my links were running heims on the frame end, and bushings on the axle end. I sold the rig a long time ago, so I have no more pics. If you are really interested in it, get a hold of AZ Crawler. He has this rig now, so he can snap off some pics of it.

Dima

Dude, I dont have the pics, but I can explain them. The uppers are your standard link placement (top of axle to inside of frame). The lowers go from the outside of the axle to a spot right under the tcase output. I had all my links the same length. All my links were running heims on the frame end, and bushings on the axle end. I sold the rig a long time ago, so I have no more pics. If you are really interested in it, get a hold of AZ Crawler. He has this rig now, so he can snap off some pics of it.

Dima

im always up for seeing more link setups...... if AZ wants to go to the trouble i'll definatly look at them:smokin:

sounds like pretty close to where i'm going with it.

thanks

you mean its not done yet :D whats the hold up??

:( i lost my magic wand so i'm actually gonna have to do the work:flipoff2:

:laughing::laughing: i hate it when that happens :laughing::laughing:

wb at 109" huh :D:D:D

wb at 109" huh :D:D:D

you know it !:D:laughing::smokin::flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2 :

why do you think i was in such a hury for you to measure yours:laughing:

when you starting this project??

hopefully no more than a couple months...still have some more stuff to get ...link material, truss, link brakets and tabs, springs , ans whatever shocks i'm going to go with, maybe fox airs if the right deal comes up. i'm pretty impatient with this stuff so you can bet it will be soon as possible:D

basicly its $$..... i am going to do some prelim stuff like srw 14b hubs , wheelspacers.........new rocksliders......upgrade my crossmember for the front lower attch point

in other words their is plenty to do until i tear the rear leafs out.

today clint and i went to reno (sparks) so he could pick up some maxxiss 40 stickies he bought from a guy at torchmate.....:smokin:


soo while we were in the neighborhood we stopped by trenfab for a little tour... they were awesome ! even with a busy day they stopped what they were doing and showed us around.. drooooooooooooooool THAT IS THE CHASIS I WILL BUY! PERIOD!!!!!

next we went to summitt and shopped around , all this was in a6 or 7 block area. what a day!:smokin:

we thought about stopping by cabellas on the way out of town but had ran out of time cuz we had to detour down 20 to grass valley to work on my dads car(he had to get towed)

im taking 2 weeks vacation starting next thurs to work on my junk and clints jeep no link stuff yet for mine just a bunch of other stuff
i just tried to ediy that frown face off the top of the page and it won't leave , i don't even know why it is there
:D

I have a set of 14 SRW hubs you can have.

I have a set of 14 SRW hubs you can have.

thanks scott, but clint had some he's giving me.......... we are going to spend a few days thrashing on his j##p so i'm sure i'll earn them:D

awesome of you to offer them up though thanks again:smokin:

Not sure what you are planning on running (link material wise) but if you would like a set of my 4130 Heat Treated links just let me know, I always give locals a good discount..


Taylor

Not sure what you are planning on running (link material wise) but if you would like a set of my 4130 Heat Treated links just let me know, I always give locals a good discount..


Taylor

thanks taylor

we'll see what the budget will allow........:D

haha i was just about to ask if u wanted some 4130 2 inch links for lowers.but taylor beat me to it,good lookin out taylor. hey glen these things are strong as shit and hold some beef,they would be the way to go. 1 1/2 .250 lowers bend and take abuse,alot of my friends have ditched them over frustration and went to square tubing sleeved links or hardend links.cant wait to see how it turns out iv been thinking of links myself.

thanks taylor

we'll see what the budget will allow........:D

There pretty close to what you could build DOM links for yourself.. Just sayin:D

alright already, where are the pics of it done ?????? enough talk.

Any updates? I am getting ready to link the rear of my 65' and am interested to see what you end up with for frame end mounting locations. I am torn between mounting my lower links on the bottom of the frame for better triangulation (but gives the rocks something to grab) or mounting them on the outside of the frame for more clearance (but giving up some triangulation and vertical separation between my upper and lower link mounting points).

still grabbing up parts.... i'm heading to grassvalley in a few minutes. wfo is making me a 14b truss..... they are going to start selling them on there website and i'm getting the first one.... it is a thing of beauty:smokin: i'm actually getting my whole link bracket settup from them....
by their recomendation i am going full dual triangulation meaning the lowers will be as far out on the axle tube as i can get them in the rear and will be attatched at the center point of the crossmember under the d300 output on the rear face of the crossmember.
uppers linked on top of the 14btruss forward to the upper inside frame that will be plated the accept the linkbraket.... uppers will be 75% the length of the lowers........... there,.. kinda sounds like this is all i think about lately, huh? cuz it is:flipoff2:
i can't waite to get started but i'm not gonna do it till i have everything in hand.....i'm almost there!

alright already, where are the pics of it done ?????? Enough talk.

x2 :d

still grabbing up parts.... i'm heading to grassvalley in a few minutes. wfo is making me a 14b truss..... they are going to start selling them on there website and i'm getting the first one.... it is a thing of beauty:smokin: i'm actually getting my whole link bracket settup from them....
by their recomendation i am going full dual triangulation meaning the lowers will be as far out on the axle tube as i can get them in the rear and will be attatched at the center point of the crossmember under the d300 output on the rear face of the crossmember.
uppers linked on top of the 14btruss forward to the upper inside frame that will be plated the accept the linkbraket.... uppers will be 75% the length of the lowers........... there,.. kinda sounds like this is all i think about lately, huh? cuz it is:flipoff2:
i can't waite to get started but i'm not gonna do it till i have everything in hand.....i'm almost there!

this is the best link setup you can do. You will eliminate any rear steer if set up properly.

I will be keeping an eye on this, as I love seeing the garage mechanic with my budget building shit. Let me know if you need a hand anywhere along the way. I work for :beer:

Best of luck to ya
Dima

thanks dima.... i got all of the link brakets, truss, lower forward cluster(batwing) etc.... they are the chit fer sure:smokin:
beau at wfo is coming up with a coil /capture/bucket for the 14b and frame
i'm almost there, however i'm puttin another sm465 in cuz mine has some issues, i found one cheap and i'm thinking i might want to do that job first................... buuuut maybe not:D
i'll post some more pics as soon as i fix my paypal issuse and get my red star back:shaking:

whats up with your trans? let me know if you need it built.

it won't shift all the way into second gear. it feels like it is in but when i let out the clutch it pops out of gear, you can slam it real hard down into gear and sometimes it will go all the way in and stay there.... also sometimes as you go up to third it gets stuck in nuetral. goes from side to side but no feeling of making it to any gear.......the more you yank it around it eventually lets go and shifts..... as long as it isn't second:laughing: i wheeled the second half of the summer w/o second but its time to fix it.
i found a guy on pirate with one for a hundred bucks i figured it would be better than mine. might pick it up tomarrow in sanoma

you work on manual trannies dave?

that it do, auto's an sticks. i'v got a 2wd 465 that i pulled out to put in a 700R4. it worked great an i'm not go'n to use it, if you want it let me know.

auto's an sticks. i'v got a 2wd 465.


Dave,Just make sure to use lots of sealler!!!!:p

Glen, get that red star back so we can see that pile o parts already!!!
Looking forward to the next phase!!!

:flipoff2: your's is still under warranty, just gota leave it with me.:flipoff2: Dave,Just make sure to use lots of sealler!!!!:p

Glen, get that red star back so we can see that pile o parts already!!!
Looking forward to the next phase!!!

:flipoff2: your's is still under warranty, just gota leave it with me.:flipoff2:


thanks dave, i need a 4wd 10 spline version,,,, i didnt make it to sanoma to get the tranny yet but i'm hoping to grab it this week.

ken i just got to get off my but and fix my paypal.:p.....soon i promise

cool, ill grab the old one an see what happend to it. then you'll have a spare.

were are these parts i keep hearing about? whats left on the wish list.

were are these parts i keep hearing about? whats left on the wish list.

hey dave, i just saw your last response to the thread, yes by all means grab the old one i would love to know what its malfunction is:shaking:

i'll try and get some pics soon..... left? link material (2'" DOM), spring buckets(captures top and bottom), springs, some plate for the frame, im gonna have wfo cut it on their torchmate,,,, still deciding how much i want to spend on shocks however that will be the very last thing i do...... ive paid for everything i have so far and have been adding money to an account every week at wfo, i've built quite a credit so far:D

Get it!!!




Chris:cool2:

i dont beleive this is going to happen.:D

Hey Glenn, When i did my front 3link , i called everywhere and the cheapest for 2"x1/4" wall DOM was Team Tube in west sacramento off Jefferson Blvd. $13 a foot i think

Hey Glenn, When i did my front 3link , i called everywhere and the cheapest for 2"x1/4" wall DOM was Team Tube in west sacramento off Jefferson Blvd. $13 a foot i think

thanks, i'm getting a deal at wfo. trying to keep the whole project in-house so to speak, they always do us right. :smokin: top shelf shop and 15 min from where i work on my cruiser.

btw not going to grass valley this week so no pics till next week.... i got my red star back though:D

BURN :stirthepot:i dont beleive this is going to happen.:D

yawn.

yawn.



no doubt john this thread is gonna need cpr and the paddles ......probly need to start a new one if i ever get the pics:laughing:

pics, as in they exist, it is done or under way ? then you've been holdin out ?

I am thinkin links as well but I wanna run it at 100+ wb on the leafs for a season to see what it is like. It be at 95 now.

If you are gettin new d-lines and ditchin the leafs pm me, I may want the leafs, d-line, and any brakeline you may be switchin out would help me in the wb lengthening job.

warpony has been dibbin on my leafs. i will say old man emu 60series springs flipped for the rear are bthe best springs i ever had and put me at 10"...they can just put a 1350 cv head on my old d-line to save some $
your gonna dig 100+ wb



E=peesalot;10718939]pics, as in they exist, it is done or under way ? then you've been holdin out ?

I am thinkin links as well but I wanna run it at 100+ wb on the leafs for a season to see what it is like. It be at 95 now.

If you are gettin new d-lines and ditchin the leafs pm me, I may want the leafs, d-line, and any brakeline you may be switchin out would help me in the wb lengthening job.[/QUOTE]

finally some pics

truss...its just sitting there , not bolted together or at the pinion support

they notch the hole for the yoke to fit through the yoke gaurd so you don't have to remove the yoke to install it. that way there isn't the issue of the crush sleave inthe pinion support

lower axel brackets x2

lower forward bracket for cross member....batwing:D
its made for my 2" square tube cross member

I'm diggin the truss! Gonna ask them about that today

Tough looking truss. Do they make a truss that runs farther out the tubes? Or is the double triangulated version the only option?

Tough looking truss. Do they make a truss that runs farther out the tubes? Or is the double triangulated version the only option?

they were talking about making me one that went from end to end , but having to mount coil captures , with limited space i think this was a better fit...... they will make whatever you want...... mine is stored in their computer for production

I talked to Trevor about it this morning and am waiting for a call back from Beau to discuss some tweaks I'm looking for.

I talked to Trevor about it this morning and am waiting for a call back from Beau to discuss some tweaks I'm looking for.

im in grass valley right now and heading home this morning, ill be stopping by there to talk to them about something too...... did you check out the front axel truss laying on the floor in the front lobby area.... might be just what you need........ or maybe i need to check your thread cant remember if you built yours already

It will be built by the weekend. Front should be done by christmas, front tube that weekend and then the motor is getting pulled and the back is getting cut off :eek:

the back is getting cut off :eek:

kinda scary!.......:laughing: you think i should bring those hubs home(vacaville)? or to WFO? i'll be coming back up next week, so no hurry.....

As of yesterday I was gonna have you try and meet my wife in vacaville. Now with the rear truss and batwing, I may go and pick them up, or would you be willing to grab them when they are done and then meet her? She's off the week of New Year's so looks like we're talking the week after.

As of yesterday I was gonna have you try and meet my wife in vacaville. Now with the rear truss and batwing, I may go and pick them up, or would you be willing to grab them when they are done and then meet her? She's off the week of New Year's so looks like we're talking the week after.


sure, let me know i'll haul all of it to vacaville and bring it to your wifes work if you like. i'm back and forth consantly

While your down there whip one up for an Dana 60 end to end and swing it by my house please:D

justin i told them you were inquiring , and Beau said he would make one however you wanted it ,ship it right to you.:smokin:

Glenn they did one hell of a job. Now hurry and get this thing done :D:D:D

NICE Glenn! BEEEEHEEEEFY!

While your down there whip one up for an Dana 60 end to end and swing it by my house please:D

Give them a call, had my estimate emailed to me within a few hrs :smokin:

holy crap!!! it is going to happen :laughing: what are you doing for links?

:laughing:
yah dave i'm almost there..... got the final details on the coil spring captures worked out today, they will be done next week i'll be heading up on christmas eave to pick em up . building up my shop credit to cover the springs . link material and some plate their gonna cut for me for the frame. i'll bring them a template and they will use the torchmate to burn them for me
using 2" .25 wall dom for the lowers

still debating swapping out the 465 1st..... not sure

Hey Glenn, Looks nice and I can't wait to see it up close...............maybe some time after Xmas :flipoff2: from page 2 ha ha . It dose look super good :grinpimp:

Hey Glenn, Looks nice and I can't wait to see it up close...............maybe some time after Xmas :flipoff2: from page 2 ha ha . It dose look super good :grinpimp:

:flipoff2:

we do not want to see any more pics of parts sitting on the ground. we will begin to ? wether they even belong to you ?

I would change the trans out before you get started on linking it. you know as soon as your done your going wheeling :D not going to get far with a busted trans.

I would change the trans out before you get started on linking it. you know as soon as your done your going wheeling :D not going to get far with a busted trans.

thats what i was thinking....... however i wheeled the whole second half of last summer without 2nd gear....that was even driving to the trail:D
but you right , i wont want to deal with that after the link



pees, just sit tight!:flipoff2: