I have a WD hitch and noticed that while towing im getting some ever so slight movement. I detected the movenent by noticing some grease at the base of the ball had been moved away from the hitch itself. Again it's ever so small but still moves.

I tightened down the ball but really didnt get much out of it. it is tight but acts as if the nut is seized on the shank of the ball.

I never can see myself removing this ball from the hitch. it is a WD hitch and has the 2 5/16 ball on it. again the ball is tight, just not AS tight as I would really like it. (3/4 drive ratchet and a pipe wrench to back up the ball. )

there is a lot of steel on both the hitch AND the ball. I dont see heat as a issue due to the mass of all the steel thats involved. ( and being smart with the welder.)

Why not weld the base of the ball to the top of the hitch. Not the nut.

I have a WD hitch and noticed that while towing im getting some ever so slight movement. I detected the movenent by noticing some grease at the base of the ball had been moved away from the hitch itself. Again it's ever so small but still moves.

I tightened down the ball but really didnt get much out of it. it is tight but acts as if the nut is seized on the shank of the ball.

I never can see myself removing this ball from the hitch. it is a WD hitch and has the 2 5/16 ball on it. again the ball is tight, just not AS tight as I would really like it. (3/4 drive ratchet and a pipe wrench to back up the ball. )

there is a lot of steel on both the hitch AND the ball. I dont see heat as a issue due to the mass of all the steel thats involved. ( and being smart with the welder.)

Why not weld the base of the ball to the top of the hitch. Not the nut.

Alright.

Call me crazy, but I haven't seen too many people that have to weld their trailer balls on. I would take it apart and see what's wrong. perhaps it's shanking out or galled. Is it possibly it's supposed to having a bushing in their because the ball has a smaller shank, and it's not there?

........
Why not weld the base of the ball to the top of the hitch. Not the nut.

Because that would be covering up the problem instead of actually finding out what's wrong?

A trailer ball is just not the sort of thing you want to be playing around with. If you're having repeated problems with this one, buy a new hitch and ball that work right.

Inspection is obvious. However a WD hitch is not something thats cheap to replace.

For argument sake lets say I have a new hitch and ball. Still the same question, is there any reason not to weld the ball to the top of the hich, in adition to using the nut?
this would seem to increase the safety margin greatly. and there is only 1 size of ball used on the WD hitch. They dont seem to be a wear item either...

Just take proper care in welding it and you should be fine. I would think about taking the ball off and inspecting it before you welded it though. Just make sure the shank doesn't have a crack in it that is causing the nut to not want to tighten down.

Back in the Mid 70's when we were traveling full time, there was an issue of ball coming loose from weight distributing hitches when the owner used oil to lub the ball. Word was not to let oil get down in the threads as permit the balls to loosen. Since he mentioned he had grease at the base of the ball, his problem could be he has wet threads and just not getting the ball tight. If it was me, I would clean the hitch and get a new ball. Shouldn't play with safety.

I'm putting money on bad threads. I bet when you remove it you find that you pulled the threads on the shank and they are bound up in the nut. I wouldn't be surprised if you have to cut it off.

This happens because a lot of places punch the hole for the ball instead of drill it. The tiny lip left from the punch process catches the threads when installing the ball and it's all downhill from there.

Get a carbide burr and clean up the hole before installing a new ball. Don't make it bigger, just clean up the lip. Also make sure to keep the base of the ball flat against the hitch when tightening the nut. This is very difficult to do sometimes, but letting the ball and shank "rock" back an forth will damage the threads and they will likely wind up in the nut and all jammed up - What I'm suspecting happened when it was installed the first time.

PS - I wouldn't weld it just for the fact that if you ever want ot tow a trailer with a diff size ball, you'd need a whole new drawbar, instead of just a ball.

:usa:

Call me crazy, but I haven't seen too many people that have to weld their trailer balls on. I would take it apart and see what's wrong. perhaps it's shanking out or galled. Is it possibly it's supposed to having a bushing in their because the ball has a smaller shank, and it's not there?


^This.

Do actually want to fawk around with this? The proper 1 1/4" shank 2 5/16" ball (What most WD hitches use) is what, $10-$15?? When installed properly, the hitch ball works fine. I would never say that it won't EVER come loose but when installed properly, it will not move or loosen routinely. I find most people lack the means to adequately torque the 1 1/4" shank....therefore, it works its way loose.

Seriously, remove the ball and inspect the shank and hitch to see exactly what the problem is before hitting it with a welder.

For argument sake lets say I have a new hitch and ball. Still the same question, is there any reason not to weld the ball to the top of the hich, in adition to using the nut?
this would seem to increase the safety margin greatly.

Well, there are AWS standards the specifically call out against connections that are both welded and bolted. With the bolt (hitch ball in this case) under tension from nut torque, a new stress is added to the hitch ball as a result of welding. This can lead to unpredictable stressing of the connection and lead to premature failures. The idea is make the make the connection with fasteners OR welding - not both.

Well, there are AWS standards the specifically call out against connections that are both welded and bolted. With the bolt (hitch ball in this case) under tension from nut torque, a new stress is added to the hitch ball as a result of welding. This can lead to unpredictable stressing of the connection and lead to premature failures. The idea is make the make the connection with fasteners OR welding - not both.

That, and welding also changes the metallurgy at those areas of the steel anyway.

I woudl remove the ball and inspect. I've seen a lot of holes that were, as stated punches or something, and poor fit. We measured one a few weeks ago an it was close to 1-1/8th, (with paint in the hole as well), for a 1" ball.

If there's an appreciable amount of gap, you could always turn a small sleeve to tighten it up.

I find most people lack the means to adequately torque the 1 1/4" shank....therefore, it works its way loose.


Yeah, what is that, 450ft/lbs or so?

I can do it "enough" with an 18" pipe wrench so that it won't come loose when I can't find the stupid socket I have. Othwerise it's a breaker bar and cheater pipe about 3' long to make it possible.

I do put the thing in the receiver so I have 6,000lbs of vehicle holding it in place for me while I bust a nut getting the nut tight.

I don't know if they are all welded on or not, but I have seen many U hauls with the balls welded on. I agree balls are cheap and I would just buy a new one if yours is screwed up.

I don't know if they are all welded on or not, but I have seen many U hauls with the balls welded on. I agree balls are cheap and I would just buy a new one if yours is screwed up.

Using U-Haul as an example of the right thing to do, probably isn't the best idea. :flipoff2:

perhaps a dumb question, but are you using a ball w/ the right shank size or the proper spacer to make up for it?

Trailer balls are often made out of medium carbon steel (IE SAE 1045) that along with the alloying elements can result in a high enough Carbon Equivalent that welding on it without preheat and post weld heat treatment will typically leave a hard and brittle HAZ.

That is ASSuming that the normal "Pride of China" ball is made out of something recognizable as steel, not chinkalloy.

I have had issues with a borrowed WD head that had a 1" shank ball in a hole meant for a 1 1/4" shank that also had the nut bottomed out on the threads whilst not actually keeping the assembly tight in the over sized hole.

I have had issues with a borrowed WD head that had a 1" shank ball in a hole meant for a 1 1/4" shank that also had the nut bottomed out on the threads whilst not actually keeping the assembly tight in the over sized hole.

I'd guess that would be the problem. 1" shank 2-5/16" ball in a 1-1/4" shank ball mount.

Warning: more assumptions....

My WD head is cast iron. Welding a high-carbon, heat treated alloy ball to cast iron has "bad idea" written all over it. Even using pre and post heat and a high-nickel welding rod, it's just not the place to be taking chances. I agree with several others who say "fix the source, not the symptom." If the WD head is bored for 1.25 shank, spend the couple extra bucks for a 1.25 shank ball. If you have a 1.00 hole that's wallowed out and measuring closer to 1.10, you might consider getting a machine shop to bore it out to 1.25 if there's enough material. Not sure if that's practical, but it's a thought. Nobody will ever make fun of you for having a more expensive 20K rated high-test ball towing only 6K.

Warning: more assumptions....

My WD head is cast iron.


Might want to check that again. I have never seen one that is cast iron - they are typically cast steel. I certainly haven't seen them all....just saying that I doubt it exists....that wouldn't be a very good application for iron.

What about triball units?
All they are is a piece of 2x2 solid stock, with three balls welded onto them.. And I've never seen them fail.. :shrug:

Wow lot of reply's I was away from the internet.

I still need to remove the the nut and inspect. This was purchased as a "kit" all from the same manufacturer. Pre assembled. Im ASSUMING it's the correct shank.

As for the WD hitch itself there is ONLY 1 SIZE ball that will ever go on it. I have drawbar's, (read NOT WD hitch) for the other sizes if need be.

Also my WD hitch itself is steel, it even has a re-enforced welded on collar around the shank.

What about triball units?
All they are is a piece of 2x2 solid stock, with three balls welded onto them.. And I've never seen them fail.. :shrug:

One would hope that the manufacturer of the triball units would also know the exact material of both the balls and the shank and would also have suitable manufacturing methods for attaching balls to the shank.

In B-rock's case he does not know the material of the ball or WD head.

I had one that loosened up until I sleeved it.