Does anyone here have any experience with aluminum trailers like the Aluminum Trailer Company (http://www.aluminumtrailer.com/open.html) or Featherlight (http://www.featherliteinc.com/modelpage.asp?sltSegment=Car&strBodyStyle=BP&sltSeries=4)? They are not cheap, but I would like to pull my rig (3500 lb. Toyota) on a trailer with a 3/4 ton truck and a cabover camper. The more weight I can save the better.

My question is, I have heard concerns about the trailer being too much lighter than the rig and causing quirky handling. Anyone have any comments on this?

I have to wonder if you can really save that much weight.... I think my double axle steel/wood trailer is only 1200 lbs or so - I can't see an aluminum one being THAT much lighter considering the cost diffrence.


How about you figure up the price difference and spend the money on performance mods to the tow vehicle - I have a feeling you will appreciate that better on the whole :)

That is a good point David. I am still in "wishful thinking mode" :rolleyes: right now, I don't have any of these toys yet. That doesn't stop me from looking though. :D

My dad has a 18 ft. Big Tex (70DM) and it weighs over 2000 lbs. :eek: I would definitely like something lighter than that. Maybe the wood deck is the key. The aluminum trailers come in at just under 1000 lbs. for a 16 ft. trailer... but they also cost about $4k! :eek:

Have you actually weighed your's David? You once told me Toyota leaf springs only weigh 20 lbs. a piece too. :flipoff2:

when's the last time you picked up 2 comparably sized peices of metal, one being steel and the other alum.? yeah it is THAT much lighter, I work with nothing but aluminum all day long.

-Scott

If the price does not bother you get one. It will most likley be the last trailer you will ever buy if you take care of it and don't loan it out!

Some of them weigh in as much or more than cheap steel trailer. I found a used Featherlight but the deck was too narrow even though it was 20'. It weighed in at 1400 lbs. If you are using a lightweight tow vehicle or never want to see rust,

If you buy an aluminum trailer, you better buy know how to weld aluminum or have a buddy that does because they fatigue quite easily and often compared to steel.

Originally posted by smurfsdad
If you buy an aluminum trailer, you better buy know how to weld aluminum or have a buddy that does because they fatigue quite easily and often compared to steel.


Yup. He just nailed it! Remember, steel bends, aluminum breaks!

Originally posted by smurfsdad
If you buy an aluminum trailer, you better buy know how to weld aluminum or have a buddy that does because they fatigue quite easily and often compared to steel.

That was my point - generally the aluminum trailers need more material to have the same strength - so you lose some of the weight savings benefit.

It is not like you take a steel trailer design and just build it out of aluminum - it doesn't work that way...

Originally posted by DRM

That was my point - generally the aluminum trailers need more material to have the same strength - so you lose some of the weight savings benefit.


Ballpark on Aluminum vs. Steel:

Aluminum is about 33% the weight of steel. You need about 50% more material in aluminum to match the strength... so overall you end up about half the weight.

So with the aluminum trailer, you still have steel axles, springs, etc. End result being a 2500# steel trailer should be around 1600# when built in aluminum.

FATIGUE is the problem. You break an aluminum trailer neck on the road, you're in a heap of trouble. Had a friend swear the lighter weight was worth it, easier to tow, less sway problems... For cross country road trips (SCCA racer), he finally switched back to a steel trailer.

If you only use the trailer for shorter trips (200 miles) maybe six times a year, you maybe fine with the aluminum trailer for years! He was putting about 40,000 miles a year on his truck hitting all the events from California. Seem to remember he only had the aluminum trailer for a couple of years...

Tom :usa:

I might be of some help here......I have owned both....... a 18ft Featherlight and a 23ft Jb Ent Steel.... both bumper pull models.

The Featherlight rated to 7000Lbs had two dexter 3500# axles and yr usual trailer accessories. With a box on the front and a 8K Warn winch it weighed in ready to tow at #1865. This was a 1992 model trailer. It lasted a few years and I started hauling my Bronco on it *5500lbs* and it seemed it was starting to suffer fatigue in some of the welded joints. After I discovered how much it was starting to " bow" when loaded I Sold it to a pal who I believe STILL tows a stock car around on it just fine...Good trailer just not up to the weight I needed to carry....and it towed fine...although empty it was a lil wiggly at times.

The 23ft Steel trailer I have has a steel deck...is built from 2x6 1/4 wall square tube.... it has a crossmember like every 14" and is basically built like a tank. I have owned this trailer 14 years now and after at LEAST 200,000 miles other than usual mantenance ( brakes bearings brake lines, wiring, paint ) has held up perfectly. I Am now ready to repaint and rebuild it again as I can't begin to replace this trailer at todays steel costs for under 3K Besides it is the sweetest towing rig I have ever pulled. Dexter 4000# Drop axles leaf springs and weighs 3100# Empty with a 8000# Warn and the box. Way overkill weight and construction wise....but on ocassion I have been real happy it's built like it is. (like when my brother in law loaded the ENTIRE deck 5ft high with 5/8 drywall once)... talk about HEAVY the tard.

So I guess if I was buying a trailer to tow a 3500# rig I would not be afraid of the Aluminum trailer........just make sure yr trail rig, spare parts, barbacue and all that crap us wheelers toss on trailer doesn't weigh more than you think.

I know loaded up for a week long wheeling adventure my steel trailer,Bronco, gear prolly goes close to 10K.

NoRM