Just wondering if anyone's done it.

I plan to lengthen the wheelbase and am wondering (don't have the Jeep yet to look at) if there would be any advantage to buying a Chevy 60 to put up front and just get rid of the wrap around exhaust that runs under the oil pan and then down the passenger side.

Obviously, any fuel or wiring on the driverside frame rail would need to be transplanted to the passenger side if I ran the exhaust straight out of the block and down that side.

Will I be able to get a lower ride height (by moving the exhaust) and allow potentially the same uptravel out of the front suspension (I'm shooting for 5" or so)? I'm planning a 3 link with panhard. I want it to sit as low as I can with 37's, but still need a decent amount of uptravel for the 14 or 16" coilovers so that distance will dictate the overall height.

What about the low pinion Chevy 60? Am I better off buying a Currie Rock Jock(or similar) center and pressing in tubes? I want to have stock length Chevy inner axles (my buggy runs the same stuff so it would simplify my spares). I realize that driveshaft angle could be a very real problem with a low pinion....but as I said, I'll be stretching the wheelbase some...to the point the front tires hopefully will be a few inches past the front frame rail (37" tires...possibly 38). I'm also planning an Atlas II with the stock 4.0L and auto to give an idea of overall drivetrain length.

If I go the custom housing route, I could obviously flip the diff side to the conventional TJ driver drop and just have the tubes made to the right length to take stock Chevy shafts.

Just trying to brainstorm whether or not there's any advantage to going RH drop and moving the exhaust to the other side....obviously if low pinion would work....I'd also save some coin on the axle build.


Any advice or experience is appreciated.

Sean

I am doing it. The motor will need to be moved to the driver's side for the driveshaft to clear the starter. Only problem I saw with moving the exhaust is it gets close to the slave cylinder for the clutch.

A high pinion axle on the passenger side will require a ton of work...

The bellhousing and starter area are super tight with the driveshaft. Most definitely plan on a 1" MML and a 1" BL to make the t-case fit better or else cut the hell out of your floor.

I used JKS budget MML(basically lift blocks for the mounts), I'm thinking about getting some Brown Dog 1" lift motor mounts to put on top of that for 2" of MML total for more clearance.

Check out my build thread... I'm nearing completion... hopefully:laughing:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=768019

If I could start over again I would definitely wait for a driver side drop axle... lots of little BS "damn I didn't think about that" problems you encounter. If you're going full hydro and/or double triangulated front end to get rid of the track bar that will help a lot... I have both a track bar and still have a steering box(going hydro assist).

This is at ride height, prior to the MML/BL... the tube is about 1.5" OD IIRC.

I have the t-case out right now, but keep an eye on my build thread for a day or two, I think it's going back in tomorrow so I'll try to mock up my front driveshaft again.

In a nutshell: with the 4.0 it's a pain in the balls. The only reason I settled for it is I only need 3" of uptravel minimum. Hoping for about 3.5-4.

Not sure what I'll do about the exhaust, but if it goes down the driver's side then I need to get it wrapped and put lots of insulation around the fuel lines and the clutch slave cylinder lines.

Just eyeballing it I think I MIGHT be able to sneak it over the driveshaft and above the transfercase. I'm thinking that the section in the really tight areas will be hard mounted, with flex tube connecting the motor to the hard mounted exhaust to isolate movement.

Thanks guys....sounds like I'm far better off building a custom driver drop 60 that'll use Chevy shafts.

I really appreciate the help.

If you don't mind me asking......knowing the difficulty, why are you guys going with passenger drop axles?

Thanks again.

Sean

Thanks guys....sounds like I'm far better off building a custom driver drop 60 that'll use Chevy shafts.

I really appreciate the help.

If you don't mind me asking......knowing the difficulty, why are you guys going with passenger drop axles?

Thanks again.

Sean

Didn't think it would really be THAT hard.... it's not downright terrible but I gotta sacrifice ride height and deal with tighter clearances and limit uptravel and whatnot, but since it will be a crawler it isn't super critical.

If I was building something for rock racing then no way in hell I would bother with passenger drop... or at least wouldn't be keeping the 4.0 and NV3550.

If I was building a big gay mud truck then it really wouldn't matter since I don't think any of those guys run a front driveshaft anyways:flipoff2:

edit:

Oh yeah, main reason was I got a really good deal on built D60/D70 with lockers, gears, 35spl, etc right after I got my tax return... I was scrambling to get a pair of axles and the prices of driver's drop axles are/were crazy so I decided to just go for it.

Gotcha....

I was planning the D60 from a Chevy b/c (well, don't tell my wife) but I was considering a custom Rock Jock for the buggy and swapping my current 60 in the buggy under her new Jeep. ;)

Guess she's gonna end up with the cool new axle. :( Oh well....maybe one day.

Sean

I did that.

http://thedoubleduke.com/pics/Disney07.08/anyawheelin5.jpg

I did that.

http://thedoubleduke.com/pics/Disney07.08/anyawheelin5.jpg

What's the height on your Jeep to the top of the cage? That's a thing of beauty man. Seriously. Great looking rig.


***EDIT** Oh, and are those 42" Iroks?
Sean

What's the height on your Jeep to the top of the cage? That's a thing of beauty man. Seriously. Great looking rig.

Sean

It fit in a 7' garage door without the soft top. I think I had around 1/2" of clearance.

***EDIT** Oh, and are those 42" Iroks?
Sean

Yes. 42s.

Project: Dookey (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=478875)

It fit in a 7' garage door without the soft top. I think I had around 1/2" of clearance.

Gotcha....ya, trying to keep this one down a bit b/c it'll sometimes see DD duty with my wife. On something around a 37-40" tire, I want to keep it around 72"-76" tall max.....which is gonna be a PITA if I still want 5-6" of uptravel. I only have 4" on my buggy (76" height, 25.5-26" belly) and it SUCKS at high speed on the way to the trail head.

Thanks for the info. Again, GREAT looking Jeep.

Sean

Yes. 42s.

Project: Dookey (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=478875)

Oh, are they stickies? I'm thinking of going that route on my buggy next (currently running the 356 Creepy Crawler stickies...but they are SHORT).

If they're stickies, how do you like them?

Sean

Oh, are they stickies? I'm thinking of going that route on my buggy next (currently running the 356 Creepy Crawler stickies...but they are SHORT).

If they're stickies, how do you like them?

Sean

Non-Stickies. They worked well. I have heard the stickies are awesome by comparison. Get them!

Thanks for the info. I'm scratching a broke ass right now....hopefully I can scrounge up some money for them and new wheels next summer. My 356s are basically new, so it's a shame to dump 'em just yet.

Thanks again for the help.

Take care,
Sean

If you don't mind me asking......knowing the difficulty, why are you guys going with passenger drop axles?

Thanks again.

Sean

I paid $200 for my front axle. The cheapest Ford one I found in the area after searching for about a year was $1200. I don't think it will cost more to put it in, but it will be more time consuming

I paid $200 for my front axle. The cheapest Ford one I found in the area after searching for about a year was $1200. I don't think it will cost more to put it in, but it will be more time consuming

Ya, I'm kinda in the same boat. Money's tight right now....but Chevy 60s are only a little cheaper in AZ than Fords so I'll probably just pay a little more and get a high pinion at the same time.

Sean

i'm doing it with a dodge dana 60 which is pretty much the same as a chevy until you get to the hubs. issues you will encounter if running coils your going to have to grind the leaf pad down or notch your coil bucket to work. you going to want a dana 300 i'm guessing. as far as the motor being over to one side worst case you run a 2 piece shaft. look @ my build I'm running an NP435 231/300 doubler behind my stock 4.0 i seem to have the room. i seem to have 4" or so of up travel which is more than enough. the only issues i really see running a passenger drop is you track bar, steering, upper control arm locations and squeezing em all in their other than that it's the same as swapping any dana 60 with a custom linked suspension.

I did that.

http://thedoubleduke.com/pics/Disney07.08/anyawheelin5.jpg

Curious if this pic was takin in NE OK "disney" by the way nice rig.:D

Curious if this pic was takin in NE OK "disney" by the way nice rig.:D


Disney it is! :D

I ran into the same problem with mine...which axle do I go with!? Chevy or Ford! Mines going in a TJ also (97 4.0L AX15). I'll be running a 231/300 and after reading, researching, reviewing, etc. I've decided that for a few hundred extra bucks the Ford axle is worth it. I can usually find a Ford axle for $700-900 around my area. I had a great line on a cheap GM60 but I believe I'm gonna pass it up and wait for the right Ford to come along.

Flatlanders build had very similar mods to mine before he started the 1 ton build. With the motor in the way and all the problems hes ran into, for me, I'm gonna go Ford. My doubler is already set up for driver drop anyways which is nice.

Dookey you were also running an LT1/700r4 right?

I ran into the same problem with mine...which axle do I go with!? Chevy or Ford! Mines going in a TJ also (97 4.0L AX15). I'll be running a 231/300 and after reading, researching, reviewing, etc. I've decided that for a few hundred extra bucks the Ford axle is worth it. I can usually find a Ford axle for $700-900 around my area. I had a great line on a cheap GM60 but I believe I'm gonna pass it up and wait for the right Ford to come along.

Flatlanders build had very similar mods to mine before he started the 1 ton build. With the motor in the way and all the problems hes ran into, for me, I'm gonna go Ford. My doubler is already set up for driver drop anyways which is nice.

Dookey you were also running an LT1/700r4 right?


Smart choice. Around here decent HP axles are big $$$. That + me finding a pair already built seemed like a great idea. For cost savings yes, but time savings hell no.

Dookey you were also running an LT1/700r4 right?

LT1->4L60E->D300. I had to run a carrier bearing to get around the transmission plus with as much stretch as I was running in the front I needed it anyways. If I were to do it again I'd go with the ferd front axle for the high pinion.

My question is this...why is it easier to run a GM60 in a YJ compared to a TJ? The 4.0/ax15's are the same. Even the NV3550 has a similar if not the same brllhousing.

My question is this...why is it easier to run a GM60 in a YJ compared to a TJ? The 4.0/ax15's are the same. Even the NV3550 has a similar if not the same brllhousing.

All depends on what tcase you want to run.

That and on YJs it isn't hard to use the leaf springs on the stock Chevy mounts IIRC.

In my case it's a 231/300.

GM60 will bolt into a YJ. There are quite a few YJ's on here with SOA's an GM60's with no problems so it seems. However, the SOA will get them about 6'' lift whereas flatlander and myself want to run a maximum of 3-5'' of lift.

I did that.

http://thedoubleduke.com/pics/Disney07.08/anyawheelin5.jpg

Bet that's Hogan's...Best place around... gettin ready to venture further though, (AK,TX) been to Disney too many times.
(edit myself: guess i shoulda read the rest of thread. somebody already figured it out.)


Ah, just noticed the DPG sticker... he let me use his shop to put in my cage. Great guy.

Bet that's Hogan's...Best place around... gettin ready to venture further though, been to Disney too many times.



Ah, just noticed the DPG sticker... he let me use his shop to put in my cage. Great guy.

That's disney.

That's disney.



Hey man, did you do all the work yourself on the front axle? Just curious about ur full hydro. I'm reading up on it, for my own piece of mind, and so I know what to do, but I was a hyd mech in marine corps, so as long as I find out the components to use, i should be able to figure it out. I printed out the bella vista write up on full hydro, been reading that. What kind of deals might you have found when you did yours? (cheap but quality ram, pump, lines, etc)

Thanks

Adam

Hey guys, I'm wondering what your thoughts of running a Chev 44 Pass side with a AW4 and 300 in a TJ. my original plan was to go ford but I have a Chev 44 thats built and ready to go. This isn't going to crawler more of a weekend toy thats road worthy 36"-37" tires on maybe 3-4" of lift.
Thanks

Bill

I built mine with a chevy front end and am just finishing it up this weekend. Running the exhaust was a huge pain for me. I'm finishing it up for the 3rd time. My build link is below.
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s252/jenks07/new%20jeep%20project/00310.jpg

I did it with regular pinion Chev 60 in my TJ. I am running a Atlas. It cleared the starter fine before I made a new frame.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=464671&highlight=

I paid $200 for my front axle. The cheapest Ford one I found in the area after searching for about a year was $1200. I don't think it will cost more to put it in, but it will be more time consuming

I paid $1400 for my Ford 60 front with 5.13 gears, Detroit, and 35 spline outers, plus it came with a 70HD with 5.13 gears. I don't think you have to pay a ton for these.

Thanks guys.. I'm going for it.. I have nothing to loose but time. Jeeps not moving anywhere soon until I get my ass in gear and start wrenching so I need a plan. Now I have one..

thanks again

I paid $1400 for my Ford 60 front with 5.13 gears, Detroit, and 35 spline outers, plus it came with a 70HD with 5.13 gears. I don't think you have to pay a ton for these.

Paid $800 for my 88 DRW Ford 60. It's not nearly as load as yours but it will be when I'm done. I had a $500 GM 60 in amazing condition that I sold for this one.

I paid $1400 for my Ford 60 front with 5.13 gears, Detroit, and 35 spline outers, plus it came with a 70HD with 5.13 gears. I don't think you have to pay a ton for these.


MOST of the time, you have to pay a ton for what you got. You got a great deal, just like I did. I don't see any problem with running a passenger drop axle.

Ummm. Yesterday went to columbus (Ohio) from up North to get some jeep parts, went the back way as I wanted to stop by a small yard I had never been to before. About four inches of snow on the ground but the guy had lots of trucks and a shitload of axles, couldn't make them all out but they were in rows and rows. Got mine 1989 king pin F350 single wheel dana 60 driverside and high pinion. Complete wheel to wheel........$300.00. They are still out there. I passed up a f 250 hp dana 44 that was right in front of it. Guy told me I was lucky as if it had been a Chevy axle it would have been $1,200.

Ummm. Yesterday went to columbus (Ohio) from up North to get some jeep parts, went the back way as I wanted to stop by a small yard I had never been to before. About four inches of snow on the ground but the guy had lots of trucks and a shitload of axles, couldn't make them all out but they were in rows and rows. Got mine 1989 king pin F350 single wheel dana 60 driverside and high pinion. Complete wheel to wheel........$300.00. They are still out there. I passed up a f 250 hp dana 44 that was right in front of it. Guy told me I was lucky as if it had been a Chevy axle it would have been $1,200.

I think the gas driving to ohio would kill that deal :flipoff2:

Here is tripleXJ's tj that uses a chevy front, 4 link and he is low
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=787917

MOST of the time, you have to pay a ton for what you got. You got a great deal, just like I did. I don't see any problem with running a passenger drop axle.

One build in particular comes to mind when I noticed the GM60 in a TJ problem. I followed along during the build and noticed he had some major problems with the GM60 in a TJ using a Dana 300 case. Looks really tight to use a 1 piece. Now using a 2 piece drive shaft I don't see the problem.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=768019