So choose your own adventure! I have money to do 1 of the following.

1. Ballistic fabrication hybrid coil over air shocks in the rear. This seems unrealistic now that I have been reading more about unbalance articulation.

2. Locker in back

3. Tru-track in front

4. 4.7's front and back

5. Get the exhaust work done to make room. 3-link the front and get 5" lift springs all the way around retained. I currently have 2" spacers plus 3" lift springs.

I would avoid #4 for ever.
You don't need #1 unless you want bling

Is this truck daily driven?

If so I would suggest locker in rear. If not locker in front.

Probably would get rid of the spacers regardless of it you get new springs or not and cut the fenders to fit your tires.

I think that answers most of them

-ben

Thanks Ben. This is not a daily driver although it does drive to events and back hopefully.

Dude your killin us..

Edit.... You dont even have lockers yet and your considering coilovers

Cart before the horse...classic

You know the coilovers were in an effort to do something with my rear coils making so much noise coming in and out. $380 for new springs. $600 for hybrid coil over air shocks in the back. The $380 seemed like bad money when coil overs were my ultimate goal. Having never run with lockers I guess I dont know what I dont know. Just wanted to sort out the thing that was annoying me most and thats the springs coming out of the buckets. since they are only 3" lift springs I didnt want to retain those since I think it would really limit my travel. To retain and keep flex I think I would need the 5" coils. After this weekends trip was a little eye opening. I had to watch a Cherokee go up something in one shot that took me 3 times and all he had was a limited slip rear. So I see what you mean lockers, lockers, lockers.

Just put on some friggin spring retainers already!

If the tire is drooping far enough to unseat the spring, you are not getting much usable traction anyways, but if the tire drooping is pulling on the spring then some of the weight is transferred back to the stuffed tire. Also you will be a bit more stable on side slopes and off-camber situations.

Everyone seems so concerned about maximum articulation, and not usable articulation. If the wheel is no longer attached to the truck by a spring, then it gives you little benefit.

So here is my opinion.

1. No. See previous post about Cart ==> Horse

2. Will help you climb hills, selectable would help you not do instant donuts when the roads get slippery. Probably what you want to do.

3. Ok, but you'll probably really wanna upgrade to a selectable locker in the future.

4. No.

5. Get the exhaust done (Free???). Hold off on the 3-Link. Retain what springs you've got, do you really need the spacers???

:beer:

All sounds good and makes sense. As for the spacers. In the rear I am stuffing well into the fender well. I got another inch of fender out of the way earlier tonight. If I trim and fold anymore I wont be able to open the back doors. Guess I can extend the bumps. I will make some retainers this weekend. Circle of 1/4" plate should do I think with some grade 8 1/2" bolts and big washers on both sides.

I really have a tendancy to go way overboard and get shit stuck in my head.

Flame on. I dont mind. Its putting my feet back on the ground.

All sounds good and makes sense. As for the spacers. In the rear I am stuffing well into the fender well. I got another inch of fender out of the way earlier tonight. If I trim and fold anymore I wont be able to open the back doors. Guess I can extend the bumps. I will make some retainers this weekend. Circle of 1/4" plate should do I think with some grade 8 1/2" bolts and big washers on both sides.

I really have a tendancy to go way overboard and get shit stuck in my head.

Flame on. I dont mind. Its putting my feet back on the ground.


Dude ive been there, I did what i wanted, I ran 2 inch springs wiht 2 inch spacer, i ran 3 inch springs wiht 1 inch spacers, I ran 5 inch springs, then i went coilovers.. I didnt care what any one said about droop! I liked how it looked, I had 14 inch shocks that would take my spring all the way out of the cones, and I had the clang when it reseated. its just the nature of the beast..

Trust me Ive lived and learned... Just reatain them.... heres what you do( its what I did) if you really want to keep the show off droop, just take a couple of hose clamps and put one on each side of the spring and the upper bucket that will keep them in there, then if you want the crazy droop for a ramp show off or something, then take them off.. this way you can try it out and see how it feels retained before you do it..

I almost learned the hardway.. Heres a pic of my truck a long time ago doing a off camber climb.. as you can see I skied the tire, as i climbed, the drivers side would go up, then the drivers rear would in turn flex out and keep flexing as the front went up.. Well after about 5 tries to climb it, I finally got out threw on some hose clamps, and I walked right up it.. the conclusion was that by having the rear retained when the drivers front went up, the drivers rear would try to droop, it in turned would stretch the spring and it would cause it to balance the truck out instead of letting it droop until i rolled..

Ok thats my .02, im not typing all this again, Im sure there a bunch of guys on here that will laugh when they read this because they all told me the same thing at one point...



PLease please please, just call keith at rovertracks 303-506-9429, and order a Rear detroit and some axles, and be amazed at the difference.. it makes the vehicle a completely different truck!

Thanks Mighty

The first mod to be done to any offroad truck is a rear locker. Leave the tires and suspension stock, lock the rear and wheel the piss out of it

I am learning that. Its just such an expensive plunge. Theres so much shit on the forums that can confuse you. Link suspension proper gearing, shocks, coils, bumpstops. Bla, bla f'n bla. It should be in the sticky. Whos in charge here I wil do a first draft then they can mod it to fit.

I don' t know much about suspension or drive trains but my wifes XD sits on old (black) RTE 3" springs, 10" Fox emulsions, she has the BEST links in the rear and RTE cranked arms she's got an ARB front and a TJM rear bumper. sittin' on 285/75-16 KM2's with MD Tcase gears, 4.10 Rover gears on the ARB in the front, 4.10 Toy gears on the Detroit in the rear.
5 speed...
Try and follow her down a trail.

The Girlz got skilz

I don' t know much about suspension or drive trains but my wifes XD sits on old (black) RTE 3" springs, 10" Fox emulsions, she has the BEST links in the rear and RTE cranked arms she's got an ARB front and a TJM rear bumper. sittin' on 285/75-16 KM2's with MD Tcase gears, 4.10 Rover gears on the ARB in the front, 4.10 Toy gears on the Detroit in the rear.
5 speed...
Try and follow her down a trail.

The Girlz got skilz

Yes she does have skillz!




P3? :D

My truck has a 4" lift (OME springs + 2" spacers), 31" tires, castor corrected FRA, a detroit in the rear and a tru-trac in the front. It does not look as spiffy as a lot of other rigs but it goes 97% of the places the superbad coilover, droopy, exo caged trucks do. It would probably do the more but I usually drive to the trails and home again.

I have follow trucks through really twisty cross axle stuff and their trucks look really impressive until the 44s start rubbing the crap out of their wheel wells and make loud crunchy sounds. My truck does tuck wheels really well up into the fender wells without rubbing and my shocks dont snap when I do this.

The reason I can do this is my rig is balanced. The tires are right for the set up, The shocks are right for amount of suspension travel I have and the bump stops are right for the shocks and the lockers do the rest.

No reason to break out the engineering software and the torch unless you just want to.

I am learning that. Its just such an expensive plunge. Theres so much shit on the forums that can confuse you. Link suspension proper gearing, shocks, coils, bumpstops. Bla, bla f'n bla. It should be in the sticky. Whos in charge here I wil do a first draft then they can mod it to fit.

You were at the ROAV Spring Rally right? You need a rear locker, ARB is preferred here on the East Coast. A detroit will make the rear crab around under certain conditions, unless you mainly rock crawl.

Almost forgot, I thought Brian (p38) was headed to the Cove that same day?

Rear locker. Find a used Detroit...cheap like chips. There are no negatives despite what people tell you....

Stupid putting on a 5" lift and crap before the locker.

I boght this rig as it sits. Just trying to improve it.

CPT. This Rover was at the spring Rally but I wasn't the owner or driver. Right about the lockers I get it, I get it. lol.

CPT. This Rover was at the spring Rally but I wasn't the owner or driver. Right about the lockers I get it, I get it. lol.

Do the toy conversion now or you'll hear that giant flushing sound coming from the rear end! :flipoff2:

I am all in on the toy conversion. Going to find a a factory Toyota E-Locker with any luck already 4.10's pick up the rover tracks conversion. Great Basin 4.10's for the front. Get it all done for under a grand with any luck.

CPT. This Rover was at the spring Rally but I wasn't the owner or driver. Right about the lockers I get it, I get it. lol.
What is he driving now?

He just bought a 95 Disco he is doing up. Even going to break the bank with some lincoln lockers. lol. Way cool dude. Nice shop and very helpful. He got me started on Land Rovers. He's kinda like my drug dealer. he sold me the disco cheap and now keep coming back and he keps selling me shit. We are discussing a manual to auto conversion. My clutch is getting worn and the through out bearing is feeling a little bit like it may come apart at any moment so I may be able to replace the tranny with a used auto for the same price as a clutch kit (Presure plate, fiber, pilot and through out bearing) still considering.

Manual to Auto... Do it right and save all the goodies from the conversion, pedals, tunnel parts, console. That stuff will pay for your Auto conversion.

Best mod and first mod should be Good Rubber!!!!

Plan the mods for the type of offroading you want to do or to what type of offroading available in your area.

Setups for mud vs. rock are quite different.

But start in small increments,
Like protection, winch, good recovery points, etc these will go along way!

To have fun wheeling learn how to drive the trails, just overpowering the trails is not challenging and does nothing to develop your skills.

rant off/

Heres a pic. Mods include;

5" lift
relocated shock mounts
longer johnny jointed rear lower links
great rear recovery
winch in front
trimmed and folded wheel wells
custom offset rims=wider stance
great lights
stainless steel brake lines extended
OME shocks
33" BFG Mud Terrains like new tread
Huge aluminum steering links
K&N cold air intake

Paid $2,200 as it sits.




http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o258/lester316d/DSC01776-2.jpg

I feel very comfortable on the trails. I raced Dirtbikes in the California Hare Scramble and Enduro series for a long time. Made it to the B class. And you would be quite surprised at how those skills cross refernce. Mostly line choice and clutch control.

I feel very comfortable on the trails. I raced Dirtbikes in the California Hare Scramble and Enduro series for a long time. Made it to the B class. And you would be quite surprised at how those skills cross refernce. Mostly line choice and clutch control.

I hear you on the cross reference...I ride offroad as well, no where near on the Enduro/Hares though...but here's ONE major difference I can identify between the 4x4 and the 2x1 worlds: the drivetrain in 4x4 sees a LOT more stress...and you need to make sure the drivetrain is first and foremost as strong as possible prior to doing most anything else...do teh Toy conversion, that's your best bet...truck looks/seems great as is.

Cheers,
Nadim

No doubt. Another thing is the level of preparedness. I was the most well prepared Dirt Bike rider I know. If it broke on the trail chances are I could fix it or at least rig it up enough to get me back. My bike and anyone elses. 1 time in 20 years of riding required a rescue tow back to camp. 1 DNF only because I crashed so hard I didnt know where I was.

Wheeling and rock crawling requires more shit than I know. Recovery gear not to mention tools and parts. I know if I get all the very best stuff then the shit I have to carry goes down but still. I saw guys with everything from axles and hubs to belts, hoses and drivelines. Where am I going to put my ice chest! lol.

The ability to perform feats of ’’African Engineering’’ will save you having to haul tons of spare parts. If you can learn to weld a diff with a some booster cables and three batteries you only need to carry a big hammer, fencing pliers, some booster cables, and a couple welding rods, And lots of duct tape and bailing wire. Or just get some of that Mighty Putty, it will fix anything.

I always hated arc welding but I get it. Great idea. Do you run the battereis in paralell or series.

Mighty Putty huh. Watch a lot of late night TV do you. lol.

Series for more voltage, Bailing wire works OK as welding rod, wire coat hanger too. just dont forget the Hose clamps!

And always carry a spare Banana to repack your wheel bearings if they run dry!

if you do the rovertracks toy stuff you wont need spares... ask me how i know!

Never did the battery welding thing but cant I use realy thin arc welding rod. Might actually get a weld that would hold up. You know the flux on arc welding rod lets it cool with out imputities no holes in the weld. Know its a temp trail fix but hey why not make it the best it can be.

I will get there on all the pretty expensive parts. 1 thing at a time. For now banannas, coat hangers, batteries and jumper cables. I love it.

Update:

Kyle T hooked me up with some 5" RoverTyme Springs on the cheap. I am going to retain them and install them on Wednesday. Sold some crap on eBay and am half way to a Locker. Should be able to order that soon. Have all I need for third link on the front just need to get the exhaust work done. Working on that....Have a deal cooking. Will post pics. I am excited about the 3-link Once the exhaust is out of the way it really wont be very difficult and you dont have to mess with the Panhard bar. I think anyways we will see how it looks in the calculator.

If you mess with the panhard, you will have to mess with the steering to keep it parallel...

Are you going toy or rover for the locker?

Would like to go Toy. Arranging cash now. May end up staying Rover then upgrading axles. The Toy is a great idea but way more costly unless I can find an e locker at the JY. That would be $65 at Crazy Rays if I can find one. Next issue is gears. The toy stuff I have seen typically was not 3.55. Not an expert on toyota but searching ebay returned no thirds that were 3.55. That means I need to find 4.10 or I have to buy new 3.55's. If I go 4.10 then I have to change the front to 4.10

Cheaper to stay Rover then upgrade axles when I break them.

Rovertrax wants $575 just for the conversion. We will see how impatient I am.

No plans on moving the Panhard. I know to keep matching angles to avoid bump steer.

Would like to go Toy. Arranging cash now. May end up staying Rover then upgrading axles. The Toy is a great idea but way more costly unless I can find an e locker at the JY. That would be $65 at Crazy Rays if I can find one. Next issue is gears. The toy stuff I have seen typically was not 3.55. Not an expert on toyota but searching ebay returned no thirds that were 3.55. That means I need to find 4.10 or I have to buy new 3.55's. If I go 4.10 then I have to change the front to 4.10

Cheaper to stay Rover then upgrade axles when I break them.

Rovertrax wants $575 just for the conversion. We will see how impatient I am.

No plans on moving the Panhard. I know to keep matching angles to avoid bump steer.

Don't polish turds.

Oh I get it. I tell you what. You pay the difference and you can put whatever you want on the right rear quarter panel. Anything at all. Well no not anything.....Well you get it. lol.

I give in. You guys are costing me money you know. I better get a Christmas card or something. Do you have stock in Rovertracks products?

Oh I get it. I tell you what. You pay the difference and you can put whatever you want on the right rear quarter panel. Anything at all. Well no not anything.....Well you get it. lol.

I give in. You guys are costing me money you know. I better get a Christmas card or something. Do you have stock in Rovertracks products?

You have no idea what sticker I would put on your quarterpanel. Trust me, you don't want that.

I'm not costing you money, I'm saving you a lot.

And no, I have no stock in rovertracks. I do love the man, in a totaly not gay way.

i just want him to come out with the DII toy conversion! i want 35s and no breakage dammit!

Don't polish turds.

I think everyone on here is polishing turds:flipoff2:

I think everyone on here is polishing turds:flipoff2:

I'm not. I'm polishing rovertracks-spider joints. :smokin:

Would like to go Toy. Arranging cash now. May end up staying Rover then upgrading axles. The Toy is a great idea but way more costly unless I can find an e locker at the JY. That would be $65 at Crazy Rays if I can find one. Next issue is gears. The toy stuff I have seen typically was not 3.55. Not an expert on toyota but searching ebay returned no thirds that were 3.55. That means I need to find 4.10 or I have to buy new 3.55's. If I go 4.10 then I have to change the front to 4.10

Cheaper to stay Rover then upgrade axles when I break them.

Rovertrax wants $575 just for the conversion. We will see how impatient I am.

No plans on moving the Panhard. I know to keep matching angles to avoid bump steer.



IM curious on something... If you buy a rover detroit for the rear, you have to buy HD axles, becuase if you dont and the axle breaks, then the detroit will most likley break.. so your 588 in a locker, and 450 in set of HD axles, then another 400 in gears.....

a toy set up you can find the e locker thirds for around 400 w/ 4.10, then 575 for the axle kit.. So thats almost the same price.. the difference.. UN BREAKABLE no spares... Then buy a set of rover front gears form justin at lucky 8 for 385, and your in done kapoot... doo it..

Rover set up w 410s 1426

toy set up wiht 4.10 975

The gears and no breakage are The major bonus out of all of this..

There about a billion topics on this al lsaying the same thing..

Do it now and save money and Pain later...

I disagree. Depends on where and how you wheel. Here in the mostly mud of the east coast an ARB and better shafts will hold up really well up to a 35 or so. I put Keith's stuff in mine last year and I do not baby it. No issues with 35s. There are more than a few trucks in the club running similar set ups and no breakage. Rock crawling is a WHOLE 'nother story.

I disagree. Depends on where and how you wheel. Here in the mostly mud of the east coast an ARB and better shafts will hold up really well up to a 35 or so. I put Keith's stuff in mine last year and I do not baby it. No issues with 35s. There are more than a few trucks in the club running similar set ups and no breakage. Rock crawling is a WHOLE 'nother story.

That's odd. The videos I've seen of east coast wheeling look like they are even harder on components than us west coast rock jocks. But, I don't see why it would matter, if the two options are anywhere near the same price, why not do the one that's twice as strong?

Prices being equal I completely agree, the Toy conversion will happen for me at some point. I thought it was quite a bit more, right?

So its really about $1500 ($975 toy conversion $380 front gears $145 or so for the install kit and bearings for the front gear change) before I roll out of the garage ready to wheel. If I go Toy. I am also getting 4.10's out of the deal. Sounds good except it will take much longer to get this kind of cash together under the wifey radar.

With the current credit crunch almost every credit card account I had was closed. Even the ones I didnt use and the ones I did use the limits were reduced to the balance. My credit isnt bad just a few dings. Was good enough to buy a house. WTF. Long story short. I cant afford to burn up what credit I have left for emergencies and I am unwiling/unable to touch savings. So that means this will take a couple of months to collect enough cash.

A small part of me was saying to buy a couple of truetracks front and rear and run it. This will get me through 90% of what I am wheeling and then save up and collect parts for the ultimate way. May even switch to a new Rover in the process. This one has been hammered on a bit.

A much smaller part said, If you want a locker that bad just break out the miller and make it a locker. Only problem is that they are rather hard to unlock. lol.

With winter coming though that does provide a lot of time to save up some cash. We shall see.

Toyota it should be. Damn hard to spend so much on a truck I spent so little on. Oh well.

There's a reason the credit card companies are killing your limits and cancelling accounts....seems you need to pay attention to paying the bills and not dropping cash on a build like this...

So its really about $1500 ($975 toy conversion $380 front gears $145 or so for the install kit and bearings for the front gear change) before I roll out of the garage ready to wheel. If I go Toy. I am also getting 4.10's out of the deal. Sounds good except it will take much longer to get this kind of cash together under the wifey radar.

With the current credit crunch almost every credit card account I had was closed. Even the ones I didnt use and the ones I did use the limits were reduced to the balance. My credit isnt bad just a few dings. Was good enough to buy a house. WTF. Long story short. I cant afford to burn up what credit I have left for emergencies and I am unwiling/unable to touch savings. So that means this will take a couple of months to collect enough cash.

A small part of me was saying to buy a couple of truetracks front and rear and run it. This will get me through 90% of what I am wheeling and then save up and collect parts for the ultimate way. May even switch to a new Rover in the process. This one has been hammered on a bit.

A much smaller part said, If you want a locker that bad just break out the miller and make it a locker. Only problem is that they are rather hard to unlock. lol.

With winter coming though that does provide a lot of time to save up some cash. We shall see.

Toyota it should be. Damn hard to spend so much on a truck I spent so little on. Oh well.

Dont lincoln lock the back, you will be goign through tires fast as shit.. as Post on the boards he had a yota spool in his for a while and he smoked his rear tires....

I understand the money thing if you dont got it you dont got it.. fair enough..

Wasnt asking for financial advice Mongosd2. But thanks for your .02 it was worth it.

I wouldnt lincoln lock it or Miller lock it since I have a Miller. Just going to see how it plays out and how succesful my Junk Yard trip is. Going to try and find a Toy diff at the U pull it. I have 4 within about 80 miles that are real U pull it's. When I was scrounging for Cherokee stuff I even remember seeing some Discos in there.

Wasnt asking for financial advice Mongosd2. But thanks for your .02 it was worth it.

I wouldnt lincoln lock it or Miller lock it since I have a Miller. Just going to see how it plays out and how succesful my Junk Yard trip is. Going to try and find a Toy diff at the U pull it. I have 4 within about 80 miles that are real U pull it's. When I was scrounging for Cherokee stuff I even remember seeing some Discos in there.

If you want to save some money, get a yota 4cyl diff, as long as it has the 4.10 it will be fine, one of my buddies ran the rovertracks kit with a 4cyl third and it was fine, plus those are 50-100 bucks all day long.. then go get a lockrite for it, a 225 dollar lunchbox yota locker( i ran one for 2 yrs) and then you have saved enough to buy rover 4.10 front gears, and its still cheaper than rover rear hd stuff...

If you want to save some money, get a yota 4cyl diff, as long as it has the 4.10 it will be fine, one of my buddies ran the rovertracks kit with a 4cyl third and it was fine, plus those are 50-100 bucks all day long.. then go get a lockrite for it, a 225 dollar lunchbox yota locker( i ran one for 2 yrs) and then you have saved enough to buy rover 4.10 front gears, and its still cheaper than rover rear hd stuff...

which years and diffs work, lane?

I asked this question over on the tacoma section and they flamed me and deleted my post. The reason was 'Search Newb' I couldnt help but laugh.

I understand it to be late 90's toe early 2000's land cruisers tacomas and 4 runners. I asked this of Buck and he recommended that I call the Rover Tracks guys. Great suggestion but I am going to wait to call them until I am ready to move. No reason to use their time until I can pull th trigger.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Truck-4Runner-3-58-G-DIFFERENTIAL-REAR-END_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQha shZitem518cc264d2QQitemZ350253901010QQptZMotorsQ5f CarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
you could probably run this one without regearing the front?????? if so, i might try to grab one with this ratio at the junk yard becasue t aint worth more than 50-100 maybe... (3:58 gears in a v6 carrier)

Lane? what say you?

toy diff stuff:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2544998&postcount=15
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/

Seems to me like it would work OK. Might even take up some of the Rover slop. Sure it would be just fine out of Diff lock. And just fine in diff lock in less than pavement traction situations.

Nice find Kyle

Use the FJ 80 front diff for the front of the rover.

I Prefer to use the V6 rear 8" diff for the rear but the 4cyl diff is still a vast improvment over a Rover diff..

The ebay 3.56 diff looks to be a right one, and an interesting find on the gear ratio.
Erik's webpage is the bible of Toy diffs.

which years and diffs work, lane?

Any year with a 8 inch third is fine.. like keith said the v6 is by far the strongest because the carrier bearing are bigger, but justin ran 4cyls in his and beat the piss out of them and they held, so if your on a budget go for it..

The gear ratio would be fine, that is a sweet find! You better jump on that fast..

Ohh and STIG..

Rovertracks consists of Keith ( revor on here) dont be afraid to call him if your not readyto buy ge will still help you... He is a very very knowledgable guy, and he is very very good to the rover community, He is always more than happy to help and talk all this over with you.. And there no strings atatched to taking his advice..

Dont be skeered hes a big sexy teddy bear :flipoff2:

Right on. Thanks for that. The Rover community seems quite tight compared to coming from Jeeps.

Right on. Thanks for that. The Rover community seems quite tight compared to coming from Jeeps.

We all hate eachother. :laughing::flipoff2:

Funny how that works. Its OK. Flame on. I know you all would be way cooler if we all were sitting in a shop together bullshitting over a project. That whole behind the computer thing gives a sense of detachment. Like that guy in the Beamer that honks at you for no f'n reason. I really wish road rage was legal sometimes.... I would have to build a vehicle just for commuting though. Traffic would be hell. lol.

The guys on here that I have met are some of the nicest people I have ever met. I think it all comes down to short typing.

Like I could say: Its awesome that your exploring all the alternatives that are out there to improve your enjoyment offroad. I hope you end up with a rig that makes you happy, and allows you to push your own envelope. Keep wheeling and build what you like. There are no wrong answers but based on my experience, I recommend this.....

But, since I am usually in a big hurry you get: Don't polish a turd.

Your welcome!

The guys on here that I have met are some of the nicest people I have ever met. I think it all comes down to short typing.

Like I could say: Its awesome that your exploring all the alternatives that are out there to improve your enjoyment offroad. I hope you end up with a rig that makes you happy, and allows you to push your own envelope. Keep wheeling and build what you like. There are no wrong answers but based on my experience, I recommend this.....

But, since I am usually in a big hurry you get: Don't polish a turd.

Your welcome!

That means the same thing to me..

Right on. Thanks for that. The Rover community seems quite tight compared to coming from Jeeps.

You should have been at The Cove this weekend. I was looking forward to meeting you.

Sorry bro I was really wanting to go. I will be at the MAR though. Are you going to that? Thats next weekend.

Everyones help has been invaluable. I take little to no offense to much of anything.



Thank you very much!

Endless pockets would be great but for know I am just trying to make the best for your money improvement I can with my small hobby budget. I am considering unloading my RC Helicoptor and abandoning that hobby to make way for this one.

Hey look I'm not a Newb anymore. lol.

Hey look I'm not a Newb anymore. lol.


YOU SIR

SHALL ALWAYS BE A NEWB TO US! :flipoff2:

Sorry bro I was really wanting to go. I will be at the MAR though. Are you going to that? Thats next weekend.

I'll be out of town for that one.

YOU SIR

SHALL ALWAYS BE A NEWB TO US! :flipoff2:


Knew that was coming.

Thanks Mighty.

Going to tear up some trails for about a couple of hours if anyone is interested. In Harpers Ferry. On a 1-10 the trails are a good solid 6 especially wet. Lots of creek beds to wheel through and the rocks are big. Some rock hill climbs that I have done but not excited about doing it again.

Just got back from a nice little trip and I have to say I am always happy with the Disco's ability. It was a little wet and slippery and an uphill with a whole bunch of wet tree roots got me and made me back down a very sketchy hill. The hill isnt super steep but steep enough and long enough to make you get after it and theres an 18" or so ledge half way up in the middle of a slight right turn then a mass of wet roots.

The only thing I wish was better are the brakes. Any advice? From the looks of my rotors they could be replaced. The back ones have that record look but the pads are in good shape. I still have the issue with needing to pump a little after riding for a while. I checked the wheel bearing and they are all very tight. The calipers are tight. Must be those back rotors are warped a bit. I dont feel it in the pedal when breaking on the road though. Would you in the back?

upgrade to the defender front rotors and calipers.

Must be those back rotors are warped a bit. I dont feel it in the pedal when breaking on the road though. Would you in the back?

You can feel a warped rear disk. It dosn't feel the same as a front but it does vibrate.

By the way

I figured out

How you got so many

posts so fast:flipoff2:

It's working for

Me too!

Matt, I usally forget something. It does look like that though.

Kyle are defender calipers and rotors a direct bolt in?

Matt, I usally forget something. It does look like that though.

Kyle are defender calipers and rotors a direct bolt in?

Yes

Mighty,

Are there any clearance issues with a 15" rim. How much improved breaking would I expect to gain? 25%? Is it a dual piston compared to a single or just larger overall.

Mighty,

Are there any clearance issues with a 15" rim. How much improved breaking would I expect to gain? 25%? Is it a dual piston compared to a single or just larger overall.


the brakign is a huge difference.. the 90s run a vented rotor as well.. NO clearance issues...

Mighty one last question. Is this worth doing it front and back or just in the front. Seems like front only would make sense.

So buy defender 90 calipers and rotors got it. Thats all I need. Not at the top of the list but certainly makes the list.

Defender 90 Rear calipers and rotors are the same as D1. You could put 110 calipers on it but they're expensive.

Good so just one end. Thank you.

Stig, I was just giving you shit. You seem to have more to say than me. I am actually glad to have someone asking questions that pertain to what I am trying to do so I can learn.

I took my RRC out on Hells Revenge Saturday and had a great time. I am impressed with how tough the plastic rocker guards are. My flex sucks with the OME HD's and I could have used a locker. I dont want to spend my life savings so threads like this help me out alot.

I have gone back and forth on what to do also. I have pretty much decided to go with a 24 spline diff from a disco and Keiths HD axles. Then add a locker or limited slip later. It is not my first choice but it fits my budget and since I am in full time school as well as full time work it make sense that way also.

My dream would be to cut down some Dana 44's or 60's so I could have a huge gear choice and locker choice but I think that it is a little out of my fab skills.

If anybody wants to help me out here I would appreciate it.

Matt.

Why not go with a Toyota conversion and have Keith send you some 30 splines instead?

Stig, I was just giving you shit. You seem to have more to say than me. I am actually glad to have someone asking questions that pertain to what I am trying to do so I can learn.

I took my RRC out on Hells Revenge Saturday and had a great time. I am impressed with how tough the plastic rocker guards are. My flex sucks with the OME HD's and I could have used a locker. I dont want to spend my life savings so threads like this help me out alot.

I have gone back and forth on what to do also. I have pretty much decided to go with a 24 spline diff from a disco and Keiths HD axles. Then add a locker or limited slip later. It is not my first choice but it fits my budget and since I am in full time school as well as full time work it make sense that way also.

My dream would be to cut down some Dana 44's or 60's so I could have a huge gear choice and locker choice but I think that it is a little out of my fab skills.

If anybody wants to help me out here I would appreciate it.

Matt.

Swing over thursday night if you get a chance! we will go over all these setups.

I just found that you can get 3.54 gears from toyota in some differnetials as well as aftermarket gearing for the toy 8".

Would allow the swap without doing the front yet... and there are 5-6 types of lockers availible.

I just found that you can get 3.54 gears from toyota in some differnetials as well as aftermarket gearing for the toy 8".

Would allow the swap without doing the front yet... and there are 5-6 types of lockers availible.

Where?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TOYOTA-4-RUNNER-3.54:1-CROWN-WHEEEL-AND-PINION-GEARS_W0QQitemZ120474460769QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20 090928?IMSfp=TL090928153001r2137

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TOYOTA-4-RUNNER-3.54:1-CROWN-WHEEEL-AND-PINION-GEARS_W0QQitemZ120474460769QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20 090928?IMSfp=TL090928153001r2137

hmm that's about $400 USD plus shipping would probably be killer from australia. with an aussie locker, and the carrier itself, you're already around $900 for the rear diff setup plus the cost of the conversion. you might as well save $400 extra bucks and get the rear toy 4.10s here and rover front 4.11s.

then you have to pay for two diffs to be setup, unless you have the knowledge, skill, and tools to do it yourself.

oh crap.

I saw one for $157 the other day at a website but I was in class and posted that real quick...

I saw a set of setup dials for 40 bucks...

I am so slow at doing stuff that it would be better to do a little here and a little there...

my wife told me I should sell the d2 and build up the p38. I think it would kick a d2's butt off road, Except for the BW t-case if it didnt lock consistantly.....

and she wants a freakin l322 rr now... I need to finish school before she gets that...

The newer Range is a really nice vehicle. I cant imagine you would be disappointed. I couldnt spend the money. Way too much of a tight ass. I would rather buy used. However its a VERY nice vehicle and good looking.

Xtreme 4x4 has a great episode on changing gears in a differential. I think you can view them on line. Episode 100. I have it saved.

oh crap.

I saw one for $157 the other day at a website but I was in class and posted that real quick...

I saw a set of setup dials for 40 bucks...

I am so slow at doing stuff that it would be better to do a little here and a little there...

my wife told me I should sell the d2 and build up the p38. I think it would kick a d2's butt off road, Except for the BW t-case if it didnt lock consistantly.....

and she wants a freakin l322 rr now... I need to finish school before she gets that...

i'd much rather have a DII than a P38 trail rig...just build up the DII.

$157 sounds much better. i could work with that. i think i'm getting another spare differential that is blown so i can figure out how to set up gears!