some of ya know ive sold off my 5th wheel slide in camper/flatdeck toyhauler. it went to a good home and im happy it will be getting the attention it deserves.

reason i sold it is this: unless im working on the trail rig it usually sits on the trailer. every year it gets snowed on,rained in,the panels are rusting where ive rubbed the paint off of it on trees, plastic is fading,etc... in short its hard on stuff to sit out in the weather.

i decided i wanted to go the enclosed route so my scout doesnt have to sit outside between wheelin trips. in my searching for an affordable enclosed trailer i ran across this:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/side1med.jpg

its a 24 foot ryder box on a tandem axle frame. not a gooseneck,but i couldnt beat it for the price. a gooseneck conversion is in the future. the door opening is 7 foot tall,90" wide. comparably sized "real" trailers are 3-4 times what i paid for this one.

let me start by saying i didnt build it,i bought it this way or it would be different ;) im not fond of how high the box sits on the frame,but some sheetmetal or diamond plate skirts should take care of that.

a couple more pics. one of the front:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/front2med.jpg

first test fit:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/testfit1med.jpg


plans are the usual: living space with a shower,fridge,microwave,counter/workbench,sink 110 and 12v lighting and plugs,and of course some nice sleeping quarters.

hoping to get started this week installing an RV door in the side.

planning to devote 16 feet of garage space that can double as sleeping/eating space when empty and 8 feet of dedicated living space for the aforementioned creature comforts. been pondering several different floor plans but any ideas anyone has are more than welcome.

nice.i got all the steel for my trailer but didnt work on it this weekend.i was to occupied with this on my tow rig :eek:

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb5/twoslo4five0/002-43.jpg

Cool project...Iv'e thought about building something similar. I don't think it sits that high...gives you some room for vlack/grey/fresh tanks, toolboxes etc.

Are those mobile home axles?

twoslo looks like some pieces are missing,lol. yeah its pointless to have a nice trailer without someway to get it to where you want to take it!

Cool project...Iv'e thought about building something similar. I don't think it sits that high...gives you some room for vlack/grey/fresh tanks, toolboxes etc.

yeah,thats the reason im not going to re-engineer it. i wouldnt have built it that way if i were starting from scratch,but since it is im going to make good use of it. planning on a set of 6 or 8 foot toolboxes up front somewhere so no greasy axleshafts,driveshafts,or other parts have to live in the living space,as well as a big fresh,and some smaller grey and black tanks. im alittle up in the air at the moment wether i will have a permanent plumbed toilet,or just one of those portable ones from wally world. most places we camp have a bathroom facility thats accessible during daytime hours,so the need for a toilet hopefully is minimal,lol.

Are those mobile home axles?

at first i thot they were,but some closer inspection im not sure... i know some old trailers used these types as well,so im thinking they might be some kind of old school trailer axle. they have bolted on backing plates and the drum is rivited to the hub and therefore prolly replaceable.

they do use mobile home 14.5 rims and clamps to hold the wheel to the hub. im not worried about them for now,but ill eventually swap the hubs out for 6 or 8 lug.

How much do you think it weights?

For my floor plains, I used google sketchup7, then measured all of my inside diameters that I was willing to work with. It changed NUMEROUS times, but I ended up knowing exactly where everything should be once I started the build.

Will be watching this build!!

Are those mobile home axles?

they way to check is to see if the backing plates are welded on or bolted. Demountable wheels were used alot. Up untill recently Hudson used them still. Parts for demountable rims are availble through Dexter.

The welded on backing plates is the only thing wrong with the mobile home axles and it's not a big deal. You can still get all the parts for them.

How much do you think it weights?

i took it thru the scales so i know it weighs about 5100 lbs ;) combined weight was as follows:

steer: 3980
drive: 3700
trailer: 4560
total: 12240

on a seperate occasion the dodge weighed 7140. yup its heavy :)

For my floor plains, I used google sketchup7, then measured all of my inside diameters that I was willing to work with. It changed NUMEROUS times, but I ended up knowing exactly where everything should be once I started the build.

Will be watching this build!!

ive done a couple different floorplans,definately nothing concrete yet. a friend has a camper that were gonna tear apart for parts,so i may be able to scrounge the furnace,shower,a/c,etc.

a big issue im having is how to efficiently make a permanent sleeping area. stuff that folds down from the sides are fine for guests,but i dont wanna have to make my bed and store the bedding somewhere else every time.

im currently thinking after i convert it to a fifth wheel that maybe ill build a "bedroom" overtop of the neck. i could cut a thru door ifn i didnt want to have to go outside to get into it,lol.

thanx for the comments ive been watching yours,mtn4runners,and all the box truck builds for awhile now for inspiration.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/testfit1med.jpg


wich shacle is that thai is in the fornt

wich shacle is that thai is in the fornt

Thats the best text you could come up with AFTER editing it?

yeah,im not even sure what you are asking...

i dont know either, but got daum thats a big d-ring:eek:

I'm from Costa Rica and some times my English is very bab.

I was asking what d-ring you put in front off that rig

its nothin special,just big. :) they were demolishing a large building downtown a few years ago and i found it,along with a slightly smaller one,looped thru some cable(1" IIRC) along the site,left for dead in the street. i figured they were fair game,lol.

i never have worried about breaking it. the straps are just ones that have broken and thus are now a permanent addition... kind of a scarlet letter to remind us to take the extra time to break out a winch whenever possible ;)

alittle bit of progress yesterday,got my door partially installed:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/door3sm.jpg

from the inside:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/doorinside1.jpg

during this process i have discovered that my sides are NOT composed of a heavy inner and outter fiberglass panel glued to thin steel or aluminum ribs. the whole side is a piece of 3/4" thick plywood of some sort that has a thin layer of fiberglass on each side.

i can put about 6 million screws around the RV door frame. well,maybe not quite that many,but alot. ;)

the akuminum door frame protrudes into the inside,past the inner wall about an inch and a half since the wall is only 3/4" thick. im thinking that i will construct a wooden frame(1x2s or 2x2s) around this portion that is sticking in. then i can screw thru the wall an into this frame... should make it stronger,id think. also thinking on running some silicone arounf the frame on the inside where it pokes thru the wall.

anyone have any thots on this?

last and not least,dont laugh at my ugly counter it was free and will only be there so i have somewhere to stick my spare parts and such until i decide on a floorpland and can come up with the time and $$ to build it.

Hopefully you put some sealant/caulking where the door frame meets the outside of the wall... If so then that should be pletny to keep the water out.

The FRP walls are the exact same I have in my uhaul, and that shit ITCHES!!!! Have fun.

i havent added sealant yet... theres only 6 screws or so in it now. so you think i should run a bead around the lip,then stick it in the hole? what should i use? plain old clear silicone? or is somethin better?

and yeah ive allready found out about the itching,lol :laughing:

a big issue im having is how to efficiently make a permanent sleeping area. stuff that folds down from the sides are fine for guests,but i dont wanna have to make my bed and store the bedding somewhere else every time.

I agree 1000000%!! I don't know if you're married or attached, but that permanent bunk and a decent mattress will make your SO 100x happier to go camping/wheelin' with you.

I don't know how tall you are, but if you're under 6', consider a big bunk up above the kitchen space? Maybe something like the back of most 5th wheel toy haulers where the bunk drops on screw jacks from above? You could have your bed made, and lifted during the day, and drop it down 1-2' to sleep.

im currently thinking after i convert it to a fifth wheel that maybe ill build a "bedroom" overtop of the neck. i could cut a thru door ifn i didnt want to have to go outside to get into it,lol.

thanx for the comments ive been watching yours,mtn4runners,and all the box truck builds for awhile now for inspiration.

There are fiberglass "domes" on some box trailers, or one of the cab top domes they put on heavy trucks to streamline them with taller van trailers--one of those might be easy to modify after your GN conversion for more forward living space.

from the inside:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/doorinside1.jpg

during this process i have discovered that my sides are NOT composed of a heavy inner and outter fiberglass panel glued to thin steel or aluminum ribs. the whole side is a piece of 3/4" thick plywood of some sort that has a thin layer of fiberglass on each side.

i can put about 6 million screws around the RV door frame. well,maybe not quite that many,but alot. ;)

the akuminum door frame protrudes into the inside,past the inner wall about an inch and a half since the wall is only 3/4" thick. im thinking that i will construct a wooden frame(1x2s or 2x2s) around this portion that is sticking in. then i can screw thru the wall an into this frame... should make it stronger,id think. also thinking on running some silicone arounf the frame on the inside where it pokes thru the wall.


The UHaul boxes have the same thin FRP over 3/4" plywood. It's very strong stuff, and unless you cut enormous holes close together, you shouldn't have to worry about strength.

It's amazing how much brighter they get inside with only one window up front--and a ton more accessible with that door. Get your RV steps mounted ASAP, as having that door useable will get used while you're building.

Don't worry about framing inside the door unless that intrusion bugs you.

I actually like your counter! :flipoff2:

i havent added sealant yet... theres only 6 screws or so in it now. so you think i should run a bead around the lip,then stick it in the hole? what should i use? plain old clear silicone? or is somethin better?

and yeah ive allready found out about the itching,lol :laughing:

Mount your door/window the same way they're mounted in RV's. Go to an RV shop and buy a couple of rolls of window sealing tape. It is the same type of stuff as "plumber's putty", but it comes in a pre-formed roll. Roll it onto the inside of the window/door flange, and screw it into place. RV's use about one 1" x #12 wood screw every 5 inches.

DO NOT use silicone!!! It will never come off when you want it to, and it might still leak when you don't want it to. RV window seal tape never cures/dries, so it is flexible enough to stay sealed even if your rig flexes.


If you haven't already, make sure you've got clips on the back bumper so your ramps don't slip off--don't ask me how I know! :flipoff2:

I don't know how tall you are, but if you're under 6', consider a big bunk up above the kitchen space?

thats actually exactly what i was thinking... i could build a temporary permanent bunk above my ugly counter,lol... i could give myself 20 inches from the ceiling and still have 24 between the counter and bottom of it.


Mount your door/window the same way they're mounted in RV's. Go to an RV shop and buy a couple of rolls of window sealing tape. It is the same type of stuff as "plumber's putty", but it comes in a pre-formed roll. Roll it onto the inside of the window/door flange, and screw it into place. RV's use about one 1" x #12 wood screw every 5 inches.

DO NOT use silicone!!! It will never come off when you want it to, and it might still leak when you don't want it to. RV window seal tape never cures/dries, so it is flexible enough to stay sealed even if your rig flexes.

excellent advice. did you do anything like yager did to seal the exposed edges of plywood after the cut?


If you haven't already, make sure you've got clips on the back bumper so your ramps don't slip off--don't ask me how I know! :flipoff2:


ha ha! yeah the ramps are secure. ive had the scout in and out several times. these ramps actually go to my big gooseneck,ive been borrowing them for the box. plans for permant ramps that will mount to the roundstock and flip upwards and be secured in front of the door with pins. so i just have to tilt them down instead of sliding them in and out somewhere.

thanks for the comments,ou build is nother one i keep going back to for inspiration :smokin:

found an RV showerstall on craiglist for $25. gonna go take a look and pick it up this weekend,hopefully :)

Maybe check out the "E track beds", looks like you will have enough room to do that above the buggy.

excellent advice. did you do anything like yager did to seal the exposed edges of plywood after the cut?




No--outside moisture is sealed out at the FRP.
Montana is a fairly dry climate, and mine's gone through 1.5 years now, with no apparent problems.


It wouldn't hurt a thing, though.
Maybe a quick coat of primer, then paint?

I generally cut mine and had a window or door in each opening within the hour. I didn't ever take the time to measure and cut all openings, then have them open for very long.

My first openings were done back in April '08, so I was more concerned with getting it sealed back up out of the wind/snow rather than longevity...

Start taking apart that RV and see how little it's actually sealed!!!

I'm torn between having permanent living quarters and having mine open the way it its.

It would be more "comfy" having permanent living quarters, but less "open" on rainy/windy days when you want to pile a lot of people inside.

Also less utilitarian with the permanent section when you might want to use it for hauling other things.

I'm torn between having permanent living quarters and having mine open the way it its.

It would be more "comfy" having permanent living quarters, but less "open" on rainy/windy days when you want to pile a lot of people inside.

Also less utilitarian with the permanent section when you might want to use it for hauling other things.

yes ive been debating that myself as well. i was pretty hip on keeping it open but lookin back thru yagers build makes me think about it alittle harder. it would definately be cheaper to insulate the 8x8x7 section than the whole thing... and then it would be easier to heat and cool that smaller area.

i guess people could still pile in the garage area,lol...

definately not going to rule it out :)

Maybe check out the "E track beds", looks like you will have enough room to do that above the buggy.

Those sound cool--I need to check them out for my rig.

A buddy of mine was telling me about "E track tables"....sounds like a great system!

got a link to the beds?

I searched, found a few text references, but no pics yet. Still looking

yeah i couldnt find any pics of beds either

FRP - Is FiberGlass Reinforced Plywood. I sealed it w/ epoxy cause Im anal probably not needed with Buytle tape (dont use anything less).

Looking back on my build I would have done the layout different. Ok that didn't come out right at all.. I would put the outside door into the BOX up near where the wall is. Then have a door into the camping area right there. This gives you like a mud room and wastes less 'door' space.

Also if you can do it, make sliding pocket door vs. swing out. Might be harder to seal. Speaking of which. I didn't seal the floor and roof very well, and if I still had it I would do so. Fuel/oil smells would still drift into the front. They were easily vented but i think some spray foam up top and buytle on the floor would do the trick..

Great work ! Ill be following along :)

thanks for the comments yager :) the wall is still floating around in the back of my mind. it will definately be one of the last things i do if i decide to go with it.

i did get some work done- the door is sealed and finished,i just got to make some sort of catch for the slide in camper steps i was gonna use for now. it sucks not being able to weld to aluminum,lol or it would be easy.

the guy at the camper store reccomended in addition to the tape that i run a bead of clear silicone around the outside of the frame for some extra protection. its a small amount of silicone touching the fiberglass and the aluminum door frame,so i went ahead and did it. that door tape is pretty cool.

also picked up a camper shower and decided finally on a basic layout. got the bathroom framed in its 48x48 on the inside. ended up bein alittle bigger than what id wanted,but i think thats ok... the biggest desire ive always had on a long weekend is the ability to rinse the funk off in the privacy of a nice bathroom. also built a couple of small counters.

sorry the ugly counter had to go. i did keep the doors and drawers that i plan to install on the new counters.

a couple of pics,but dont laugh at my carpentry skills. i like to think im not bad at making things with metal,but when i build things out of wood i make boxes and connect them together :laughing:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/inside1sm.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/inside2sm.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/inside3sm.jpg

there will be a sink along the wall between the bathroom and counters. that way the water hookups are next to one another and there should be room for a small heater. hoping to scrounge something from a camper so it can run on propane or 110. not sure if the pump will need to be mounted lower than the tanks,but if not it will live in that cabinet as well if theres room.

in the next few days hoping to get the front wall and a door done for the bathroom,the sink and its cabinet,the counter fronts,and do some wiring. at least enuff for a few 12v lights and the fridge.

still up on the air on a permanent sleeping area,starting to look like it will hafta wait until i do the 5th wheel conversion. im not apposed to adding some etrack. im real curious about these beds you speak of. ive also seen an etrack bracket that holds a 2x4. it would be real easy to make a moveable loft/sleeping area. hmmm.

made some progress on the trailer. i built the sink cabinet in the bathroom, i got all the cabinet fronts made and doors hung,and i got the bathroom wall and door finished.

to the point that i want to rig up a couple 12v lights and a plug,and run some temporary 110v wires and lights.

a couple of pics:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/counter1sm.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/sinkcabinet1sm.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/inside5sm.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/inside6sm.jpg

You're progress is looking good. Lots of room on those wall for car posters :)

thanks for the comment. yes lots of room for posters of cars or nekkid womens :D

ill be watching your build as well.

I'd throw a third hinge on that bathroom door. Will help prevent any sag or warpage.

i keep thinking about it. i prolly will go ahead and add a third one. i didnt really think i needed it since the door is so light... but it couldnt hurt :)

Maybe put the permanent bed part over where the hood of the buggy will be when it is loaded? Defeats being able to get from living area to storage area, but also looks like it'll be a squeeze to get over the counter into the sleeping area over the gooseneck now too,(??).

i am not apposed to having only outside access to the sleeping box,but it shoudlnt be too bad ifn i want to cut an acess hole. i havent done alot of measuring yet,but i think the bottom of the hole will end up right about counter height. there is room for about a 2ft x 2ft acess hole,ill just have to havce a little setpstool type thingy top get onto the countertop :)

i am not completely apposed to the loft over the hood of the scout idea,but i do like the openness that there is when its not loaded.lots of room for people to mill around,throw down folding chairs and hang out ifn a sudden downpour occurs that you dont wanna be out in ;)

not to hijack, but how do you like them hawgs?

theyre not my first choice of tire,but they do ok if you can spin them fast. i run them cause i keep finden em for dirt cheap or free :grinpimp:

you want some more?:D

:smokin::smokin:well i second that 3rd hinge lol .
will you be having a door knob ?
will you be making a holding fixture for the fridge and or microwave
i really like the build keep up the good work

allright allready on the third hinge ;)

no door knob plans at this time-got slidey latches inside and out to keep it shut when youre in there and make sure it stays shut goin down the road.

the microwave is on old junk one from work(still works good) so it was easy to add a couple tabs to to screw it down. had it that way in the old trailer. the fridge i think i will use a couple pieces of aluminum angle to keep it from sliding around. maybe a a couple of eyebolts for a bunge cord.

thanks for the comments. i think you should start up your own build thread,since i happen to know youre workin on a similar project :grinpimp:

alittle bit of progress. i built a cabinet overtop the one counter,and moved my little microwave up to its own shelf for more counter space. thinking of screwing my coleman camp stove down to the back counter temporarily.

eventually,it will be in the way of the pass thru hole to my sleeping boxas soon as i obtain then,lol i want to put a camper furnace and a nicer stove/mini oven into their own counter in front of the bathroom.

also got my 110v wiring temporarily done. 3 incandescent lights,a flourescent light and 3 outlets.

over the next couple days im hoping to get the 12v wiring done,battery mounted,and a mount made for the steps to the side door. then get a fold up bed made in the garage area.think i have given up on a "permanent" sleeping area until the 5th wheel conversion is done. theres just not a good way to do it.

a pic :)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/cabinet1sm.jpg

got a few things done to the toyhauler,despite the lack of $$,and the cold crappy weather :)

built a fold up bed on one side and a couple of small cabinets to hold oil,belts,ignition module,U joints,and other small parts.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/cabinet2.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/cabinet4.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/foldbed5sm.jpg


picked up a small propane stove,i think from a slide in truck camper:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/stove1.jpg


it had a distinctly 70s paint scheme and something had made nests inthe bottom,so a VERY thurough cleaning and some paint was neccesary

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/stove4.jpg


couple other views of the inside:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/inside8.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/stove2.jpg

last and not least a couple of the scout loaded up inside.

from the front:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/testfit2.jpg


from the back:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/testfit3.jpg


between scout and stove:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/scotty85/testfit4.jpg

using some jeep wrangler style hood latches on the fold up bed on the wall would look much better and be much less hastle then using that ratchet strap to hold it up in place :)

building is always cooler then buying, nice work :smokin:

Not sure how that OSB will hold up for you. It should work for a little while if you used plenty of gorilla glue and long enough screws.

rockyota thats a good idea on the hood latches.

the OSB board should hold up for everything ive used it for. in the spring its all going to get painted,and possibly covered with some kind of paneling.

thanks for the comments.:)

That stove looks great! :grinpimp:

Did you use a high-temp appliance paint? Have you cooked anything on it to see if it comes off? Your Avocado stove was uglier than my Harvest Gold stove (but only by a little! :laughing:) and I'd love to do the same. :grinpimp:

Do you have finish plans for the OSB? Paint?

thanx :smokin:

i used an appliance paint from the home depot for the white. it is supposed to me a super hard finish so we shall see.hopefully it holds up it was expensive and there werent many different colors. the yellow on the trim is just plain old rustoleum.

i havent cooked anything yet,but i did light all the burners and the stove and let it run for awhile and so far so good.

as for the OSB as soon as im 100% done with the construction everything will get a coat of paint. im thinking id like to cover the bathroom exterior walls and counters with some kind of paneling,and maybe cover the cabinets with some kind of thin aluminum,plastic or somethin,but that will be later on. ill be happy with a coat of paint until i can get water and propane tanks mounted,the shower working,gas lines run,and the 5th wheel conversion done. im really lookin forwad to being able to tow it as a 5th wheel,and to gettin the permanent sleepin quarters done.

as always,thanx for the comments :grinpimp:

Any updates?