http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/ballisticjoint/forgedbjplated5.jpg

Our most popular product, tens of thousands in use.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/BallisticJoint/ForgedBJhousing5.jpg

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/BallisticJoint/BJforgehot4.jpg

The 2.63" Forged Chromoly Ballistic Joint is made to be the ultimate in durability and ease of use. 100% made in the USA, this joint was manufactured and designed for military use and quality, and meets all MIL-SPEC standards. Forged from solid 4140 steel, the forging is then quenched, tempered and then normalized in a dedicated heat treating facility, providing a yield strength of 208,000 psi and a tensile strength of 238,000 psi! Finish machining is performed after heat treat to ensure a perfect fit.

Using Nylatron GS races with nickel plated bearings, these joints are smooth, long lasting and quiet. The 2.63" Ballistic Joint uses no snap rings to retain the races, instead a retainer is forged into the housing. The opposite side uses a threaded spanner nut and set screw. Also, we've added a lot of material to the grease zerk / set screw area to add a much greater resistance to splitting. Any play that might develop over time can be removed by adjusting the spanner nut. All forged joints are clear "silver" zinc coated.

Designed to be a drop-in replacement for lower control arms on TJ / XJ jeeps using the 9/16" bore. Also available is a 5/8" bore for added reliability and versatility. For those seeking a 3/4" bore, check out our 3.0" Ultra Duty Ballistic Joint. The Ballistic Joint is fully rebuildable and is the strongest joint on the market of it's kind. Offers 30 degrees total misalignment with a 9/16" ball.

Upgrade the Nylatron race from injection molded to billet (solid) for longer service life and greater impact resistance.

LIFETIME warranty on 1.25" and 1.0" shank housings against breakage. Limited LIFETIME warranty on solid nylatron races with one free replacement. Joints with 7/8", 3/4" and injection molded races carry no warranty.


http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Forged-Chromoly-263quot-Ballistic-Joint_p_1636.html#

$45.99 ea

We have recently upgraded all ballistic joint bearings to be Chrome plated. This increased the cost of the joint production significantly, but we felt that it was needed to ensure long lasting components.


http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/BallisticJoint/BJbearings.jpg

We also have released an upgrade for the races in the 2.63" joints. For $6.00 you can upgrade from injection molded races to solid billet nylatron races. This allows a larger impact resistance and a significantly longer service life. We recommend the upgrade to anyone using the joints on a vehicle that weighs over 4,000 lbs or sees heavy off-road use.

The solid Nylatron races come standard on 3.0" joints!

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/ballisticjoint/3inchbjforged.jpg

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/ballisticjoint/3inchbjforged1.jpg

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/ballisticjoint/3inchbjforged3.jpg

NEW FORGED VERSION Featuring a massive 1.5" shank


The Massive 3.0" rebuildable Ultra Duty BALLISTIC joint exclusively from Ballistic Fabrication is built to withstand extreme punishment. It's extra large 3/4" bore (bolt hole) is large enough to handle heavy torque, while the huge 3.0" diameter .485" wall (nearly 1/2" thick!) housing accomodates 34 degrees of total misalignment. The giant 2" ball distubutes the forces over a larger surface area and translates into a better ride and longer life as well as superior strength. Every 3.0" Ballistic joint features solid billet Nylatron GS races that won't deform under load and provides a smooth bearing surface for a noise free ride. Fully greasable and rebuildable. All joints include full zinc plating. Sold individually.

Choose from a 1.0" 14 tpi., 1.25 12 tpi stud, or try an industry first, the massive 1.5" - 12tpi stud available in both right or left hand thread.

100% made in the USA!

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/30quot-FORGED-Ultra-Duty-BALLISTIC-joint_p_1626.html#

$62.99 ea

HD 2.63" Ballistic Joint (weldable)

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/ballisticjoint/bj1.jpg

$32.99 ea



Ultra Duty 3.0" Ballistic Joint (weldable)

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/ballisticjoint/3inchbj.jpg

$42.99 ea

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/bushing/ballisticbushing1.jpg

The 2.63" Forged Chromoly Ballistic Poly Bushing is made to be the ultimate in durability and ease of use. 100% made in the USA. Forged from solid 4140 steel, the forging is then quenched, tempered and then normalized in a dedicated heat treating facility, providing a yield strength of 208000 psi and a tensile strength of 238000 psi! Finish machining is performed after heat treat to ensure a perfect fit. All forged joints are clear "silver" zinc coated.

The injection molded polyurethane bushing is designed for ultimate in vibration dampening control. Perfect for linkages on street driven vehicles and daily drivers, where discomfort due to road vibration is more undesirable. They also work perfectly in combination with our Ballistic Joints for the highest overall performance and comfort.

The Ballistic Poly Bushing's large outer diameter allows the use of a larger inner sleeve. Choose from a variety of bolt hole sizes 9/16", 5/8", and 3/4". Also choose from 3/4", 7/8", 1.0", and 1.25" threaded shanks available in both right hand and left hand.

The 2.63" mounting width perfectly matches most of our brackets intended to be used with our 2.63" Ballistic Joints.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/bushing/bushing-sleeves.jpg

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Ballistic-Forged-Poly-Bushing-263quot_p_1646.html

$33.99 ea



Weldable Ballistic Bushing

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/bushing/263weldonbushing.jpg

$27.99

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Ballistic-Poly-Bushing-263quot-w-weldable-housing_p_1663.html#

I have the old style joints with the tig welded stud. Have you had any failures with them? If so, are the old joint internals compatible with the new forged housings?

I need a bit more info to answer those questions. Let me know what size joint and approximately when you bought it. - Jeff

I have the 2.63" joints with 1" welded studs and some with 7/8" welded studs. I probably purchased them about 10-12 months ago or so. All the joints are fine right now, i am just worried about any future problems. The forged joints look alot beefier and eliminates the welded stud.

They are without a doubt stronger. Sounds like the internals are from the same revision timeframe, you'll just need a new washer and I would consider upgrading the bearing. We use a higher grade steel and chrome plate them these days. Call Will, he can get you some updated housings if you're concerned.

i have the old style on the rear and just ordered these to do the front. there sweet joints. what kind of grease are best to use with these?

Moly grease is best, the injection molded races are moly impregnated.

I was wondering if you have heard or seen any of your forged housing deform from abuse to the point the spanner nut wont spin anymore?

It's possible but not at this point. Am I about to hear about the first?

I was just asking. I am in the beginning stages of a new build and your joints are on my list as possibles. I have heard of the currie JJ's deforming and not holding the snap ring so I was just looking to see if you have any such distortion in your housings.

The material around the spanner nut is over .250" thick and thicker in some places. really the only possibility would be a crimping action caused by a direct hit from a hard object. Best way to protect against that is to used enclosed brackets like the ones we sell.

when are you guys going to run another big sale like you did a little while back i have somethings i am looking at getting but like most on here im on limited funds. Can we expect a Halloween sale?

when are you guys going to run another big sale like you did a little while back i have somethings i am looking at getting but like most on here im on limited funds. Can we expect a Halloween sale?

We're coming into our busy season, and as backed up as we are right now it would be irresponsible to run any more sales until we're caught up. There's a good chance that we won't see another sale until sometime next year. Sorry -

Jeff

I'm running the original 3.0 welded stud (1.25) bodies with the thinner wall in my rig. Did you guys start to see failure in the tube in the HAZ or any issue with the welded stud or was it just much more production sustainable to move to a forged and machined joint rather than a weldment?

Just curious if I should think about upgrading the 4 3.0's I've got to the newer bodies and internals. The rig is shy of 4 tons and I'm planning to double my horsepower output in the next 6 months.

Hey Jeff, Quick question, I've got some of the weldon 3.0s on the table, along both forged and weldon 2.63s. The 2.63s came with both thin and thick washers, and the 3.0s have just thick washers. Are they not needed on the 3.0s due to something I'm missing? I've got a set of 3.0 forged on the way as well, definetely like these, just curious because I should be assembling these this weekend (if all goes well)

The shims? Those are only for use in the 2.63" joints with injection molded races. Your 3.0" have solid nylatron races so they're not needed. Thanks - Jeff

I'm running the original 3.0 welded stud (1.25) bodies with the thinner wall in my rig. Did you guys start to see failure in the tube in the HAZ or any issue with the welded stud or was it just much more production sustainable to move to a forged and machined joint rather than a weldment?

Just curious if I should think about upgrading the 4 3.0's I've got to the newer bodies and internals. The rig is shy of 4 tons and I'm planning to double my horsepower output in the next 6 months.

They are easier to manufacture, stronger, look better and are cheaper to make. When we switched to forged joints the prices dropped significantly and we passed it along to the customers. Will your weldment housings fail? Probably not, but you can be sure that a 1.5" shank forged CrMo housing is up to the task :smokin:

That makes sense. Thanks, just wanted to make sure before I missed something.

As far as maintainance, what joint is suggested for the east coast, where we try to stay out of the mud, but the mud always seems to find us?
Thanks, Ricky

Moly grease and you'll have a short break-in period where you'll need to tighten the spanner nut once or twice. The break-in period is much more pronounced if you purchase the injection-molded races vs. the solid races, but the cost difference may be worth it in the end.

Jeff

I have been thinking about replacing my krawler joints in my RK longarm upgrade for quite some time. I was told that these joints would be a great alternative. I believe they are 1" shank, 14tpi and stock lca width (2.63")? If thats all the correct info I think you have what I need.

Yes, that in one of 32 variations that we carry. Thanks - Jeff

Just sent thru an order to you guys for joints & brackets. I am in Australia so trying to get my USA orders done while the $$$$ is good.



brooksy

...Can you get the joints in post #1 with a 3/4" bore for a 3/4" bolt..???..If so, how much are they with jamb nuts and weld in bings..??

What is the thread pitch on the set screw. on the 2.63 joints

ok. school me on this, I am living in iceland so I have only seen those things over the internet, I have a Toyota 4runner on 39" and I drive it each day to and from work, linked coil suspension with a range rover links in the front and 3 linked rear, we use a sort of joints from mercedes bens on most of the links here in iceland, and those are basicly just rubber joints with a 12mm bolt.....
any how,

I don´t like how often I have to replace the range rover joints, and there for have been looking at 4 linking my front. Which joints would you recomend for a daily driver, the ballistic 2,5" or the poly bushing joints.

one of the thing is, that it is hard for me to figure out the term poly pushing, I know that´s some sort of rubber mount but how soft is it and so on...

best regards Bæring

Polyurethane is a soft plastic with a durometer of 88 in our case. Most rubber bushings have a durometer of 40-60.

I would recommend the 2.63" Ballistic Joint with solid Nylatron races for both sides since they tend to last longer and hold up to harsh environments. You can pick up a couple of rebuild kits and you should be set for years to come.

Jeff

Got a couple 3.0 joints on the way for the D60 swap into the cj....should be fun^^

Ultra Duty 3.0" Ballistic Joint (weldable)

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/ballisticjoint/3inchbj.jpg

$39.99 ea



What is the max angle of misalignment with these 3.0" joints?

What is the max angle of misalignment with these 3.0" joints?



34 degrees of total misalignment

Thanks for the quick reply

I installed some Ballistic joints in my front lowers just before KOH 09. I have been hammering on them since. They are holding up great. No slop but my home brew mounts are alittle beat. Thanks for making a great product.:grinpimp:

I installed some Ballistic joints in my front lowers just before KOH 09. I have been hammering on them since. They are holding up great. No slop but my home brew mounts are alittle beat. Thanks for making a great product.:grinpimp:

Hey Jack, you're missing a lower bolt off your driver knuckle. You can thank me this weekend. :flipoff2:

It's all good. There's 3 others holding it tight. It's been missing for awhile now.

Anywhere I can find (recommended) servicing and preload specs? I've had no issues but I was curious on what I should be doing.

Moly grease before runs and after getting dirty or wet. Preload is 20 ft lbs but may be difficult to acheive exactly 20 ft/lbs due to the set screw design so we generally overshoot it to the next rung on the spanner nut.

Just got the package in moments ago!


Shipping was great and fast.




The 3.0 joint is insane! The quality of the machining on these things is top notch! Cant wait till I get going on this project

I have the 2.63 forged chromoly joints, 1.25 shank. i run a 3 link setup with your weld-in bungs using ballistic joints on the frame end and heims on the axle end. I have approx. 200 miles (all daily driving) on the truck and just noticed some slop in the top link on the ballistic joint end. The slop creates an audible "clunk" even under light braking and upon visual inspection the shank can be seen to be moving back and forth (in and out) of the bung by about 1/32". I pulled the link off and with approx. 2" of thread engagement i can replicate this "slop" just by moving it with my hand. For reference the "wobble" is less pronounced on the heim end. Either the bung tolerances are "off" or shank tolerances are "off". I need help.


Is this the first occurrence? i did a short search and found nothing definitive.

--Brian

I have the 2.63 forged chromoly joints, 1.25 shank. i run a 3 link setup with your weld-in bungs using ballistic joints on the frame end and heims on the axle end. I have approx. 200 miles (all daily driving) on the truck and just noticed some slop in the top link on the ballistic joint end. The slop creates an audible "clunk" even under light braking and upon visual inspection the shank can be seen to be moving back and forth (in and out) of the bung by about 1/32". I pulled the link off and with approx. 2" of thread engagement i can replicate this "slop" just by moving it with my hand. For reference the "wobble" is less pronounced on the heim end. Either the bung tolerances are "off" or shank tolerances are "off". I need help.


Is this the first occurrence? i did a short search and found nothing definitive.

--Brian

Are you using jam nuts?

i am. I just put the link back in and check the others for reference. the lowers dont seem to have as much play. So i tightened the jam nuts VERY tight (aka "gorilla tight") and that seems to have fixed it. But is that amount of play...."normal"?

If the jams worked themselves loose during those 200 miles then it's possible that the threads loosened due to wear.

Jams need to be gorilla tight in all linkage circumstances.


Thanks - Jeff

ok well, regardless of the reason the links are useless now as are the joints, i know need new whole links. Send me a quote for two links .25" wall 2" OD Length: 38.5" and one link .25" wall 2" OD Length:30.25". Measurements are middle of bolt hole to middle of bolt hole. Heims on both ends. Need misalignment spacers for 9/16" bolts. Shipped to 47906. I dont readily have access to the tools to assemble my own links anymore and im travelling cross country on dec. 1st

ok well, regardless of the reason the links are useless now as are the joints, i know need new whole links. Send me a quote for two links .25" wall 2" OD Length: 37.5" and one link .25" wall 2" OD Length:29.25". Measurements are middle of bolt hole to middle of bolt hole. Heims on both ends. Need misalignment spacers for 9/16" bolts. Shipped to 47906. I dont readily have access to the tools to assemble my own links anymore and im travelling cross country on dec. 1st

1.25" heims I'm assuming? I'll get a quote over to you asap.

Thanks - Jeff

yup

ok well, regardless of the reason the links are useless now as are the joints, i know need new whole links. Send me a quote for two links .25" wall 2" OD Length: 37.5" and one link .25" wall 2" OD Length:29.25". Measurements are middle of bolt hole to middle of bolt hole. Heims on both ends. Need misalignment spacers for 9/16" bolts. Shipped to 47906. I dont readily have access to the tools to assemble my own links anymore and im travelling cross country on dec. 1st

just a heads up....the new measurements are 38.5" for bottoms and 30.25" for top.

Anyone have the measurements for the 2.63 5/8 joints?
Hoping to make brackets this weekend for the joints that will be arriving on Monday.

you mean besides the 2.63" ?

DrVic,

Is there a spec sheet that gives comparative information for all the Ballistic joints?

I have been looking for something to help understand the relative benefits of the 2.63" vs 3.0" vs. Billet Heim (most specifically yield strength)....

A single page showing each heim (actual size) along with a list of relevant specs below each one would be killer!


Apologies if this already exists and I just haven't located it (yet).


-G

No we don't have that data yet, there is still quite a bit of quantitative analysis that needs to take place before we post anything like that.

Thanks - Jeff

Forged Chromoly 2.63" Ballistic Joint

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/ballisticjoint/forgedbjplated5.jpg


THE ONLY JOINT ON THE MARKET WITH AN
AVAILABLE LIFETIME WARRANTY*

The 2.63" Forged Chromoly Ballistic Joint is made to be the ultimate in durability and ease of use. 100% made in the USA, this joint was manufactured and designed for military use and quality, and meets all MIL-SPEC standards. Forged from solid 4140 steel, the forging is then quenched, tempered and then normalized in a dedicated heat treating facility, providing a yield strength of 208,000 psi and a tensile strength of 238,000 psi! Finish machining is performed after heat treat to ensure a perfect fit.

Using Nylatron GS races with nickel plated bearings, these joints are smooth, long lasting and quiet. The 2.63" Ballistic Joint uses no snap rings to retain the races, instead a retainer is forged into the housing. The opposite side uses a threaded spanner nut and set screw. Also, we've added a lot of material to the grease zerk / set screw area to add a much greater resistance to splitting. Any play that might develop over time can be removed by adjusting the spanner nut. All forged joints are clear "silver" zinc coated.

Designed to be a drop-in replacement for lower control arms on TJ / XJ jeeps using the 9/16" bore. Also available is a 5/8" bore for added reliability and versatility. For those seeking a 3/4" bore, check out our 3.0" Ultra Duty Ballistic Joint. The Ballistic Joint is fully rebuildable and is the strongest joint on the market of it's kind. Offers 30 degrees total misalignment with a 9/16" ball.

Upgrade the Nylatron race from injection molded to billet (solid) for longer service life and greater impact resistance.

*LIFETIME warranty on 1.25" and 1.0" shank housings against breakage. Limited LIFETIME warranty on solid nylatron races with one free replacement. Joints with 7/8", 3/4" and injection molded races carry no warranty.

NOW AVAILABLE WITH A 2 3/8" WIDE BALL WITH A 9/16" HOLE. CALL TO ORDER.

*LIFETIME warranty on 1.25" and 1.0" shank housings against breakage. Limited LIFETIME warranty on solid nylatron races with one free replacement. Joints with 7/8", 3/4" and injection molded races carry no warranty.

NOW AVAILABLE WITH A 2 3/8" WIDE BALL WITH A 9/16" HOLE. CALL TO ORDER.

:smokin:

i have a tj with a short arm lift. i have modded my rubicon express arms to have flex joints at each end and am pleased with them. however i have striped out a treaded spanner nut once on a rear upper.

i am looking to build my own long arm soon. the long arm will be built to support D60's 40's and a 5000lb tj. right now i am on a hp30,8.8 and 35" krawlers. but am still haveing issues with the arms.

granted all my issues have been with the smaller upper joints. no issues with the lowers.
the RE lowers i am sure are comperable to your 2.63" joints. but since i am gonna be upgrading the axle i am wondering if i am gonna start having issues with the 2.63" size joint. maybe run 3" for lowers and 2.63 for uppers?

any insight from anyone?

Dr vic.
Planning on doing a one link on the front and rear of my next project. I will be running with mog 404 axles under a 3500lb truck, what joint would you recommend.
Thanks
Rob.

Quote for 4 RH and 4 LH 2.63" ballistic joints 1.25" shank and 5/8" bearing hole with jam nuts shipped to 76008.

Website is there for a reason. :)

Just curious if the 2.63 joint 1.25 shank and the square bungs to match are in stock? If not when will they be available? thanks

I need a quote for 16 RH forged chromemoly 2.63" ballistic joints with 9/16" holes shipped to 42103 please.
Thanks

DrVic, I need a quote for 16 rh ballistic 2.63" chromoly joints with 9/16" holes shipped to 42103, thanks.

drvic, i need a quote for 16 rh ballistic 2.63" chromoly joints with 9/16" holes shipped to 42103, thanks.

pm sent

balstic 3 inch joints vs 1 inch bore heims and 1.250 shank i think i am saying this right building a rock well rig and i wount the strongest thing i can get any help i would aprechet some guys say heims others say balistic joints ??????

Just curious if the 2.63 joint 1.25 shank and the square bungs to match are in stock? If not when will they be available? thanks

anyone.......... anyone..............

any plans on running a sale again like this one

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=838632

Any chance you guys will be making your Billet Ballistic Rod End Ver 2 with a 1 inch bore and a 1 1/4 inch shank :D


Thanks

any plans on running a sale again like this one

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=838632

Those prices won't been seen again, sorry - Jeff

Any chance you guys will be making your Billet Ballistic Rod End Ver 2 with a 1 inch bore and a 1 1/4 inch shank :D


Thanks

We have done a few with 7/8" bores, would that work or do we need to shoot for 1"?

Jeff

Drilled out everything already for 1 inch bore heims but heard your VER 2.0 were the way to go, any chance it will be something you'll be offering soon?

Thanks

Saw these the other day: Reducers
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Reducer-Spacer-_p_1716.html

Hello guys,

Just received my full set of 3.0" and all I can say is: "Impressive and Huge!"
A quick doubt: Which and how much grease should I use?

Thks!

Hello guys,

Just received my full set of 3.0" and all I can say is: "Impressive and Huge!"
A quick doubt: Which and how much grease should I use?

Thks!

You should use a molybdenum based grease and give it a couple good pumps from a grease gun and rotate the ball around to evenly coat the insides of the races and you're good to go. I'd hit them again after playing in the mud or sand to help push out any contaminants that might find there way in there as well.

One more stupid question but I want to make sure they will last as much as possible.

Once it's get dirt, should I disassemble, clean it up, mount again and pump grease in? Or just some good pumps with everything mounted will remove the dirt?

You know, lots of mud down here!

I'd just hose off most of the mud and pump in some more grease until you see fresh grease coming out of the joint again. No need to disassemble them completely.

What's the upgrade policy on the forged joints? I have some of the old welded housings that one of your guys convinced me I needed 7/8" studs instead of the 1.25" I tried to order and I regret it ever since. They're still brand new and never run.

Can I buy just the forged body with a 1.25 stud and swap everything else over? You'll sell some more tube adapters if I have to re-do all my links....:p

i ordered 6 of the 3" joints and when they got here they had turned the packing peanuts into crumbs. there is styrofoam in every little crack. do i need to disassemble them and get all the styrofoam out, or just run em? they're going on my 3 link on a daily driver so i don't wanna cut any corners. thanks.

i ordered 6 of the 3" joints and when they got here they had turned the packing peanuts into crumbs. there is styrofoam in every little crack. do i need to disassemble them and get all the styrofoam out, or just run em? they're going on my 3 link on a daily driver so i don't wanna cut any corners. thanks.

I was wondering if Ballistic knew that their packing peanuts sucked! :flipoff2: I wouldn't bother taking the joints apart unless they say otherwise but it really does take forever and makes a huge mess to get all the styrofoam off the parts when they show up.

Thanks for all the info and support:

Another one: I bought some weldable 3.0" joints. Any advices before welding besides disassemble everything? I'm just worried about the threads.

Hello guys,

Any special care for the weldable 3.0" joints?

I'll try again, I saw this is a major problem with similar joints in the market. How to keep the threads safe during welding?

Just trying to keep them good for use as soon as it was hard to brought them here.

Thanks,

What size tube are you welding them to? TIG or MIG?

The 3.0" joints have such a heavy wall thickness that it is actually quite hard to warp the housings unless you put ALOT of heat into them. Just take your time, don't weld it all at once, maybe alternate welding your links 1/3 weld at a time or so.

Do not water quench unless you like brittle welds.

Jeff

It'll be 2" OD tubing. MIG welding.

I'll take it easy, 1/3 at time and certainly without water!

Thanks,

What is the misalignment angles on these joints? I could only find the 3in does 34. I'm guessing that different bores have different angles?

on the forged 2.63's, 7/8" shank, what is the length of the threaded stud, EXCLUDING jam nut...?? just tapped my tube adapters, 1.5"x1.5"x4 solid stock, bored n tapped them to 7/8"-14 (making square links)... the heims i have are short, so i only tapped the first 3 of the 4", but when the heims shit the bed, I'm switching to these(brackets are clearenced accordingly already)...just curious, because if i have to tap the whole way, i might as well do it now, before i cook the oil out of em

thanks
-Koup

I don't have a Ballistic Joint in bed with me with my laptop, but if you tapped the first 3-4" then you'll be fine. I believe the entire threaded length is 3.5" so after a jam nut you're looking at 3" max.