hey i have been on a few sites but no one seem to know or are willing to help me out....just wondering if you can buy a lift for it or if you have to do a sas.

There are a few lifts and a lot of mods you can do but you are really in the wrong place for this question. Go to 4x4.wire.com or Outerlimits4x4.com in their mitsu section and you'll find what you need.

yeah 4x4wire is a good site :D

Front lift: torsion bar crank good for 2" generally accompanied by GEN 2 upper suspension arms. Write ups on 4x4wire

Rear lift: Toyota shackles for 2", search 4x4wire for the part numbers

Bodylifts:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/MonteroBodyLift.shtml

5" suspension lifts availible from asia but only one person in america ever bought one. $1000usd for the kit, another $1000 in shipping fees and import crap.

They don't really need a lift you can run 33s stock anything over that and you probably get sick of the IFS depending on your wheeling.

If your rears are coils you can put Montero 4 door springs in it. You have to have a V6 for the coils. The four cylinders had rear leafs. 4x4 Wire had a good writeup on suspension lifts a while back in the mitsubishi section. There was also a Mitsu website called the Montero Club a while back that had some good info for modifying the Montero's and Raiders. One was the turbo conversion from a Starion, and a 4.3 coversion too. Bumpers, suspension, front upper ball joint flip etc. Probably have to Google them...good luck!

i think im just going to do sas and drop in jeep axles and jeep tranny with a gm 2.8 vortec if it will fit

Hmmm, a Mitsu-Dodge with a GM engine and Jeep axles. That would be enough of a freak to make me want to shoot it on sight, lol.

haha yes that is why im calling it frankenstein name seem to fit it very well

If you're really sold on using the 60* GM V6, I'd encourage you to at least find a 3.4L out of an old Camaro. That's what the Isuzu guys upgrade to in the Trooper. In fact, if you do that, you can expand your transmission search to those out of the V6 powered Troopers. The only problem, if I remember correctly is having to move the starter from one side of the 3.4 to the other. Otherwise, I'd look to use a 90* V6 (4.3L). It's the same amount of work for much more power and upgradability.

On axles, if you look for a Jeep Wagoneer Dana 44 with driver's side drop, your life will be a little easier with the SAS. Dana 30s are junk, people are REALLY proud of Rubicon 44s, and everything else is either full width or passenger drop (toyota). Of course, you could go aftermarket with Dynatrac and the like, but that will require deep pockets.

Let me know if I can help.

i have a few friends who are GM techs who now own a shop and they both think for the room i have with the raider a vortec and a few aftermaker parts should do great for what i want

A 4.3 Vortec, even without aftermarket parts, would is GREAT in a Raider. I'll send you a link to a guy who built one. He's even in Canada and a great guy to boot!

that would be great!:D

you could always swap in a 350 chevy later of you want more power after the 4.3

incase of don't know s10/blazers came with:
4.3l chevy
700r4 trans
np231 transfer case

yaa...i know jeep parts best.. i had a 89 yj.

I've had a bunch of S10's and the 2.8's suck but if your bound and determined to use one upgrade the oil pump that was the downfall of those horrible little pieces of motor...did I mention that they suck...alot

it going to be a 4.3

Nice!!!

what would you guys use for a tranny and t-case?? i want standard thats all that matters.

When I was doing a 4.3/700R4 swap into my old one, I had a manual valve bodied 700R4 with NP231CHD t-case. The 231 will work fine behind a V6, IMO. If you've got the cash, go for a Dana 300 flipped to Driver's side with a Stak Replace-a-Case. Pricey, but better than other D300 flip options. Of course, you could always spend a few more pennies and get a Driver Drop Atlas. (I'm kind of kicking myself for not doing this in my FJ40).

If you want a true manual transmission, your biggest problem to overcome will be shifter placement. Use this (http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmission_gateway.htm) page to get a feel for what's out there and what you're looking for.

HTH

Where in Ontario are you? I'm in Sudbury. I have an 88 raider, I'm working on a v8 and solid axle swap. As stated above, your best bet is to pick up a Chevy s10 or blazer and use the 4.3, 700R4 and 231. I went with a dodge 5.2 magnum and a 518/np231 but the combo is very long, which makes for a lot of extra work to make it all fit. Here's a shot of mine in progress.

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/9175/sept62009003.jpg

Hey Tony. Spill the beans on your front suspension/axle choice, brother! Lookin' good!

Is that an Early Bronco D44 and suspension setup?

Quite right, 73 bronco dana 44, 79 pick-up disk brakes with small bearing chevy rotors, 4" TJ coils, extended ford radius arms with johnny joints. Still finishing up the steering linkage but it's all 1.5" .250 wall DOM with 3/4" heim joints.

Can you put up some pics of how you did the radius arms? I'd like to see the frame side and axle side if you don't mind.

I just picked up a DD Waggy 44 and am considering adapting an EB suspension setup to avoid leaf springs.

Sorry for the hijack, but this is still on topic, right? :D

I pretty much copied these ones, but I went right up to the C with the tube and eliminated the factory shock mount. I like the way the arm is keyed into the tube.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8179199&postcount=16

Very nice, thanks!

469305

Sure u can

haha that is sweet

469305

Sure u can

More of this thing please! :eek:

What is up with that suspension? I think I'd like to see some details or a build thread. How does it hold up to those boggers?

On axles, if you look for a Jeep Wagoneer Dana 44 with driver's side drop, your life will be a little easier with the SAS. Dana 30s are junk, people are REALLY proud of Rubicon 44s, and everything else is either full width or passenger drop (toyota). Of course, you could go aftermarket with Dynatrac and the like, but that will require deep pockets.


Thats bullshit! Dana 30's from '91-'99 Cherokees are a High Pinion non-vacuum disco axle that has a ton of aftermarket support, ik people running 33's on stock shafts in them and doing fine!

if it were me i would get a 4.3L Vortec, 4L60E transmission out of a Chevy S10 and then get a NP231 t-case (with slip yoke eliminator and teralow 4:1), and HP30 and Chrysler 8.25 out of a '97-'99 Cherokee

He can run 33s stock on a raider if he wants to and never break a thing. He could run 35s too if he wants with 2" suspension and still most likely never break anything. He could run 37s with 2" sus/3" BL and the larger '89-'91 V6 front ifs (almost direct swap) and break a tie rod every once and a while. Of course this is with the 2.6l not a 4.3L which will break the ifs over 33s....




35s with 2.5" sus/2" BL and the smaller 4cyl. front ifs (7.25" R&P) never breaks a thing
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/0778drz110/SAS%20Raider%20References/1246835739_4wheeling_120.jpg
4.3l/700r4/np231chd/D44(wagoneer) spooled/mitsubishi 9" and factory are locker rear on 35s...ran like this for a few years before breaking the stock front axles
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/0778drz110/SAS%20Raider%20References/hillcrest1.jpg


D30s are still junk FYI. Why run a ticking bomb when you could run a wagoneer 44 (and run the same wheels 6x5.5) sure d30 are free but waggy 44s aren't much more expensive.:D

More of this thing please! :eek:

What is up with that suspension? I think I'd like to see some details or a build thread. How does it hold up to those boggers?

hummer suspension it was entered in TTC years ago
http://www.fourwheeler.com/eventcoverage/129_0510_1993_2005_ttc_winners/photo_05.html

So really everyone has there own ideas on what axle and trannys to run I see

What if i was to use a 94 XJ axles?? front is a dana 30 and rear is dana 35? though anyone

469305

Sure u can

I found this pic on a search I think this rig was in a top truck challenge a few years back I googled lifter raider.

He can run 33s stock on a raider if he wants to and never break a thing. He could run 35s too if he wants with 2" suspension and still most likely never break anything. He could run 37s with 2" sus/3" BL and the larger '89-'91 V6 front ifs (almost direct swap) and break a tie rod every once and a while. Of course this is with the 2.6l not a 4.3L which will break the ifs over 33s....

D30s are still junk FYI. Why run a ticking bomb when you could run a wagoneer 44 (and run the same wheels 6x5.5) sure d30 are free but waggy 44s aren't much more expensive.:D

You captured my thoughts, exactly, but were much more eloquent than I would've been. In my original post, I simply forgot to add the tire size caveat. There's no reason to do any of this work for 33s on these rigs. Thanks for posting this.

In the end, brother, opinions are like assholes...everybody has one, and they all stink (including my own).

You're going to have to do some research and decide for yourself based on what you want to do with the truck. You are the only one who REALLY knows what that is. I'd start by digging up real experience/breakage threads and do a lot of reading before you decide. Asking these questions here, or anywhere for that matter, is just going to get you more of the same opinions.

Good luck, man!

You captured my thoughts, exactly, but were much more eloquent than I would've been. In my original post, I simply forgot to add the tire size caveat. There's no reason to do any of this work for 33s on these rigs. Thanks for posting this.

What if i was to use a 94 XJ axles?? front is a dana 30 and rear is dana 35? though anyone

You don't even have to lift a raider/montero/pajero to fit 33s. You will break just as much parts with 33s on the IFS with a 4.3l as you will with 33s on a d30/35 with the 4.3l. I wouldn't run either axles, stock or 30/35, with 35s and a 4.3L. A wagoneer dana 44 would let you keep your wheels (6x5.5) and is much stronger. You could run 37s or 38s if you wanted too.


31s...stock...$0
33s...trim or 2" lift...$0 or ~$150 price of a front end alignment and toyota shackles for 2" lift
35s...trim and 2" lift/2" lift with 2" BL ~$150 price of alignment and shackles and/or $120ish for a bodylift
37s...trim with 2" lift and 3" BL $275ish for lift parts.

4crawler bodylifts: most mitsubishi/raider guys buy from him. You'll need a 10 mount kit on a 4banger truck
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/MonteroBodyLift.shtml

The Gen1 trucks require Gen2 upper suspension arms when using a torsoin bar crank more than about 1-1.5" cause the arms and longer/stronger and better corrects the suspension geometry and camber angles. Gen2 USA monteros were from '92-'01.

Axle swaps. SOME Montero sports from the late 90s had factory airlocker rear axles. These are a damn near direct swap into a Gen1 Leaf spring rig plus DISC brakes with is a great improvement. Bigger axles and 9" R&P. Be sure to look for 4.636 gears to match the front. Some extra parts are needed off the truck that i can detail about if you'd like...
Gen1 V6 (with 3.0L engine) had a bigger front axle/IFS. 8" R&P and stronger. The axle assembly including CV shafts and the axle and mounts are almost direct swap. Aussie locker just came out with a locker availible for this 8" axle (not available for 7.25" axle).

I guy has also just made custom ball joint spacers. These will be better if you plan to crank to near 3" lift. Gives more down travel too.
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1179017&an=0&page=0#Post1179017

The truck posted above on 35s and IFS is still running the stock 2.6l and automatic and still does 70 on the freeway with the stock 4.625 gears. Then again that only works in flat areas. :laughing:

Why WASTE money on a d30/35 swap if you can't gear it down more than 4.88(not to mention the 4.88s are weak)? Did you think of that? You would have to spend a few hundred on gear swaps too!

Buy a 3" body lift and slap some 35s on it and run it till it breaks:evil: and with the money you saved buy a d44 or even a d60:grinpimp:


Not putting you down man just trying to save you time and money:) I wouldn't swap in d30 unless you got it free with 4.88 or 4.56 gears. IMO there are ALOT of junkyard mods that can make the IFS better than a d30/35 that are cheap.



ugghhhhh...ma brain hurts LOL:laughing:

You don't even have to lift a raider/montero/pajero to fit 33s.

You're right. My point was simply in reference to D30 strength, nothing else...I WILL say, however, that when running 33s on my deceased 4 door, the rear wheel wells cut into my 33s on several occasions while wheeling. If this isn't a concern, have at it.

The Gen1 trucks require Gen2 upper suspension arms when using a torsoin bar crank...
Not "required"...recommended would be the right word. LOTS of people are running max cranked t-bars without Gen II arms (myself being one of them). Trim (not remove) the bumpstops and it'll level out just fine. I have some Gen II arms ready to go in, but the truck works without them. Aligned to 0 (not factory 1) camber just fine. How that will play on tire wear remains to be seen.

The problem with keeping IFS on these rigs lies in the expense to replace the front steering parts when the time comes. I did a full rebuild on the old 4 door and it cost me nearly $1000 in aftermarket off the shelf replacement parts. When it's time to do this job, an SAS almost makes sense WRT money spent.

Just my .02 for what it's worth (less than .02 with inflation)...

35s with 2.5" sus/2" BL and the smaller 4cyl. front ifs (7.25" R&P) never breaks a thing
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/0778drz110/SAS%20Raider%20References/1246835739_4wheeling_120.jpg


Actually I was with him on the trail and he broke some things. . .

1. Right after i took that picture he broke a taillight
2. Then he popped a bead on the right front tire
3. Also broke some paint off of the truck that day


:D:D:D:D:D

i cant find replace mark lights for the front of mine or a driverside tail light...i have spend 2 days looking i dont know what im going to do now....anyone have any ideas where i can try??? and if you do the 2 inch lift with the torsion bars then you dont get much flex anymore do you?

For the second question, no, you don't. But you never had much flex up front anyway, so you won't recognize much difference on the trail.

Get ahold of Rxinhed on 4x4wire, and he should have replacements for you on his parts truck. If you don't want to deal with that board, google M&S Recycling. They'll have your parts, but will charge you a premium.

Good luck.

Heres mine.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q34/Trishka523/103_0838.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q34/Trishka523/103_0446.jpg

Look... its Landraider. rxinhead on 4x4wire most likely has the parts you need 87raider. If not others are parting out Raiders/Monteros on the board. Just go to the trail talk forums and I'm sure you will find some.

What’s up guys...Joined the forum today cause I’m ready to fix up my ’88 Raider. It has the 2.6L I4. Can’t remember the last time she ran strong (1998 at 65,000 maybe?). I want to put a big block in. I have no idea where to start and I need help. I want to do it right which means new drive train, new trans, new everything. I just sold my boat (stupid purchase that was) and have about 10k to spend. Where do I start??? Thanks guys!

Doing a copy/paste into this thread probably isn't going to help you much. Nobody likes cross-posters.
Travis..

i got an 87 radier with a 3 in body lift very easy to put on and 33in rock crawlers