Suppose I was able to find someone to make me rear axle shafts that go from a 30 spline toyota third to the 24 spline rover semi float hubs (which I did), am I moving the weak spot to the hub assembly? (35" tire dream but more like a 33" or 8.25r16 locked) Lifetime warranty 4340 chrome moly steel shafts.

I have bugged Frank about the fj80 swap and gone back and fourth on what I want to do, but its my DD by choice and the lack of ABS and trac control is not appealing when we take it to ski in the winter and the wifey drives it. My rear diff is howling like a dog and im tired of it...

Opinions?

Suppose I was able to find someone to make me rear axle shafts that go from a 30 spline toyota third to the 24 spline rover semi float hubs (which I did), am I moving the weak spot to the hub assembly? (35" tire dream but more like a 33" or 8.25r16 locked) Lifetime warranty 4340 chrome moly steel shafts.

I have bugged Frank about the fj80 swap and gone back and fourth on what I want to do, but its my DD by choice and the lack of ABS and trac control is not appealing when we take it to ski in the winter and the wifey drives it. My rear diff is howling like a dog and im tired of it...

Opinions?

kyle, who's going to make these, keith? he's been talking about making the axles and said everything fit pretty well. my next modifications are gears and lockers, as i have everything else i need protection and lift-wise, and i want to do this stuff once. the biggest tires this truck will ever see will be 37s (years down the road when it's retired from DD duty). the next tires i get will probably be 35s. i'm on 33s right now. a complete axle swap isn't in the cards right now and HD rover stuff just seems like a waste of money to me, especially with only 5 year warranty from the typical manufacturers like ashcroft.

gives us the details man!:beer:

No. PM sent.

If i was selfish i would run 37's on hurricanes... but i think thats tooo big...

I've made them, still beating on them, we've only been beating them since July though. Still more testing..

I've made them, still beating on them, we've only been beating them since July though. Still more testing..

what size tires? how rough are you on it?

I've made them, still beating on them, we've only been beating them since July though. Still more testing..

i've talked to you about this in the past here and there on the forums. it seems like the best option for sure for the rear. the front DI ones are a little spendy though... assuming the DII stuff would be in the same ballpark price range...

The diff's are E Lockers and the guys is running about a 35 I think.
He has no "Mechanical Compassion"
He's pretty much used to getting where he wants to go using traction control and the skinny pedal. That hasn't changed since he got locked up, except for the traction control bit.. :D

The diff's are E Lockers and the guys is running about a 35 I think.
He has no "Mechanical Compassion"
He's pretty much used to getting where he wants to go using traction control and the skinny pedal. That hasn't changed since he got locked up, except for the traction control bit.. :D

you have any idea on price yet? when can we expect to see these go out to the public?

Suppose I was able to find someone to make me rear axle shafts that go from a 30 spline toyota third to the 24 spline rover semi float hubs (which I did), am I moving the weak spot to the hub assembly? (35" tire dream but more like a 33" or 8.25r16 locked) Lifetime warranty 4340 chrome moly steel shafts.

I have bugged Frank about the fj80 swap and gone back and fourth on what I want to do, but its my DD by choice and the lack of ABS and trac control is not appealing when we take it to ski in the winter and the wifey drives it. My rear diff is howling like a dog and im tired of it...

Opinions?

I have driven trucks with spooled rear ends through many a canadian winter, and have disabled the ABS on every vehicule I have ever owned. Its all about proper tires in a cold weather environment. Below 5 degrees centigrade ’’all season’’ tires no longer provide traction, you need winter tires (mountain+snowflake symbol on sidewall) . here in ski country we laugh at all the tourists who drive up from the states and wreck their cars despite ABS and traction control. Traction control can only control traction, not create traction. ABS brakes or not, 4 season tires on ice, you might as well not have any brakes.
Make some 30 spline drive flanges and get shafts with 30 spline on both ends.

well, without the d2 hubs w/abs sensors, there is no speedometer and a whole new slew of issues arises. plus it increases the cost because of new wheels and trying to hack the speedo to work...

well, without the d2 hubs w/abs sensors, there is no speedometer and a whole new slew of issues arises. plus it increases the cost because of new wheels and trying to hack the speedo to work...

You can put the D2 hub and spindle on just about any axle housing by welding a rover style flange on the housing.

What is the cost comparison on a D2 swap? I've never paid much attention to the whole thing, but now that i'm looking to lock the F and R i'm looking at the cost of Rover lockers, and HD axles and it blows me away. I could buy another truck for what 2 arbs, compressor, gears and axles all around would cost. I have a good source for toyota stuff nearby. What would I need?

You can put the D2 hub and spindle on just about any axle housing by welding a rover style flange on the housing.

its still 24 spline so your reasoning is waay flawed...

Aren't D2 hubs the same as P38 hubs?

Aren't D2 hubs the same as P38 hubs?
similiar, but they show to be different part numbers.

similiar, but they show to be different part numbers.

They couldn't charge a different price if they were the same part numbers.

Aren't D2 hubs the same as P38 hubs?

No.

No.

What's different? Axle flange?

What's different? Axle flange?

Different bolt pattern I believe. I looked at them as replacements at one time but I can't remember what exactly was different.

Different bolt pattern I believe. I looked at them as replacements at one time but I can't remember what exactly was different.

they bolt to the axle differently. the bolt pattern for the wheels is the same.

P38 is a Wolf setup and is very dissimilar

A D2 does not use a drive flange like a D1 so it is not that simple. The axel is not as big of an issue as the CVs IMHO

Mabe Justin could get the CVs and use Keiths axel to connect them to the Toy 3rd. Justin is running 37s I believe with the Ashcroft setup. You think you will be running the same setup in 5 years I haven't had one for 1 year yet.

P38 is a Wolf setup and is very dissimilar


Post '02 Wolf. The Wolf housings are significantly beefier as well.

Post '02 Wolf. The Wolf housings are significantly beefier as well.

so defenders are the only ones that got the wolf setup?

this thread has migrated from the OT... will the wheel break off?

they bolt to the axle differently. the bolt pattern for the wheels is the same.

Yes, that's what I meant. This allows me to run 22" spinners on my D2 from a P38. And those are my off road wheels!:p

so defenders are the only ones that got the wolf setup?

this thread has migrated from the OT... will the wheel break off?

1- The Wolf rear axle is simply a POS P38 diff/housing with late model full floater bits scabed onto the ends, plus gusseting. They stick this junk under all the 110's now. Seems an accountant infiltrated the engineering department.

2- Nope

Seems an accountant infiltrated the engineering department.


Considering things like the placement of the Motronics coil packs and others, perhaps this isn't all bad!

He has no "Mechanical Compassion"

That is an understatment :laughing:

1-Seems an accountant infiltrated the engineering department.

...quite possibly the funniest thing I've heard all week :)

Keith nailed it...Didn't somebody rip a 35 off a D2 at MAR or something back east?

its still 24 spline so your reasoning is waay flawed...

Its not flawed, its just the only way to keep his ABS sensors (which are also the Vehicule Speed Sensors) on the axle ends. There are ways around these ABS sensors I have seen Dana 60s under an FJ cruiser that kept the ABS sensors and the traction control system in place I think it was ALL-PRO that did this, not sure.

Keith nailed it...Didn't somebody rip a 35 off a D2 at MAR or something back east?

Yes, I saw that truck sitting in the woods. I seem to remember that the whole knuckle sheered off ,although I may be wrong.

Its not flawed, its just the only way to keep his ABS sensors (which are also the Vehicule Speed Sensors) on the axle ends. There are ways around these ABS sensors I have seen Dana 60s under an FJ cruiser that kept the ABS sensors and the traction control system in place I think it was ALL-PRO that did this, not sure.

Yeah, i think on the toys its easier to fool the computer. I just didnt understand why i would want to bolt the hub onto a different housing? Im trying to gauge the hub strength, so it is the same hub regardless of what housing it is on... Its a semi float design.
http://www.roverconnection.com/Disco2%20Parts/Land_Rover_Discovery_Hub_Assembly_TAY100060_TAY100 050.jpg

Yes, I saw that truck sitting in the woods. I seem to remember that the whole knuckle sheered off ,although I may be wrong.

Wow, any pictures???

Wow, any pictures???


I don't have any, but someone that was at that MAR probably does, I think it was 2006 IIRC.

It is not a semi-float design. It is full float with unit bearings. The axleshaft does not carry the vehicle's weight.

It is not a semi-float design. It is full float with unit bearings. The axleshaft does not carry the vehicle's weight.

Not on a D2 or P38 axle.... which is the axle design in question, which is a semi-float design. it will not make it far without the axle shaft.

The axle shaft has nothing to do with supporting the vehicle so technically it's a full floating design..

The only reason the truck NEEDS to have the axle shaft or CV in place is to hold the unit bearing together.

Some unit bearings use a nut on the back to hold the assembly some use the axle shaft with a big flange on the back and thread the axle shaft for the nut. Snap off the nut and the unit bearing will fall apart.

It was the ball joints and the knuckle assembly that broke at MAR from what I was told. the unit bearing was fine.

While they use a slightly bigger version these guys seem happy with unit bearings. http://www.spidertrax.com/products/spider-9

The axle shaft has nothing to do with supporting the vehicle so technically it's a full floating design..

The only reason the truck NEEDS to have the axle shaft or CV in place is to hold the unit bearing together.

Some unit bearings use a nut on the back to hold the assembly some use the axle shaft with a big flange on the back and thread the axle shaft for the nut. Snap off the nut and the unit bearing will fall apart.

It was the ball joints and the knuckle assembly that broke at MAR from what I was told. the unit bearing was fine.

While they use a slightly bigger version these guys seem happy with unit bearings. http://www.spidertrax.com/products/spider-9

Yes this. but for simplicity's sake, it is refered to as a semi float design, because the axle is retained by the big nut... that was they way that it was told to me anyways.

I like that spider 9" setup. looks super simple.

Good to know about the breakge. thanks Keith.