ok please help I need the front driver side wheel bearings for
a 1988 chevy 2500 4x4


I tried a couple local auto parts stores and they dont cary
them

I also tried the bearing whare house they said no dealer
only item.

tried the dealership and they want 500$

I hate to wine but I Have a real problem paying 500$
for 2 bearings.

any sugestions??? thanks

Yeah, try this....
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.BEND OVER!

-Scott

It isn't a regular type bearing... It's a complete unit that the half shaft slides through. Almost like a Jeep or Dodge front end, but mounted on a spindle for an IFS suspension. When I did my S-10 about 3 years ago, the bearing cost me $120 with the core charge. I don't remember what it was without the core. If you have ABS, expect that price to skyrocket. I remember a few months back, a guy on the S10-4x4.org boards said they wanted $600 Canadian for his driver's side front with ABS.

Originally posted by FYRMAN
It isn't a regular type bearing... It's a complete unit that the half shaft slides through. Almost like a Jeep or Dodge front end, but mounted on a spindle for an IFS suspension. When I did my S-10 about 3 years ago, the bearing cost me $120 with the core charge. I don't remember what it was without the core. If you have ABS, expect that price to skyrocket. I remember a few months back, a guy on the S10-4x4.org boards said they wanted $600 Canadian for his driver's side front with ABS.



He's right. If I remember right, it is a press fit too. Lotsa fun.

Shit if you were to have to do both sides its almost cheaper to SFA the thing :flipoff2:

Originally posted by motorhead72k5




He's right. If I remember right, it is a press fit too. Lotsa fun.


No, not press fit... held in with three little bolts. You may have to use a BFH on it once or twice, but it should come right out. The bitch is having to get the spindle nut off. When you get the bearing, ask the guy what size socket it is. It should be a huge metric nut. Buy that socket, take it down to a good tire store somewhere, have them rattle it off for a couple of bucks, then cinch it down good enough to get home, and you are home free. When you are done you wanna swing by a heavy truck shop and see if someone can torque the nut down for you. It had to go to 250 ft. lbs. on my S-10.:eek:

If you've got an eight lug K2500, bend over, if it's a six lug, you should be able to rebuild the unibearing with 1/2 ton parts, not totally sure, but that's what I was told when I needed a seal for my K3500 eight lug unibearing.

It all started out like this...I was installing my new 6" ProComp lift in my '91 GMC K3500, back when it ran, and I thought I would replace my rotors at the same time, since the runout on them was getting close to out of spec, well, after alot of hammering and pissing and moaning the unit bearings finally came off the knuckle, I knocked the wheel studs off, swapped on my new rotor, re-installed the wheel studs, and went to re-install the unit bearing when I noticed that both bearings had torn inner seals, so I popped the seal out and went looking for replacement, the bearings looked fine. Well, nobody could get the stupid little seal, and I mean nobody, turns out if you look closely at the seal, right next to the Timken part number, are the words "DO NOT SERVICE" Well I tried to get someone at Timken bearing to sell me a seal, and after many hours on the phone I ended up talking to a warehouse manager that said he had a whole pallet of those seals, boxed up in boxes of 10, for $15 each, but he would lose his job if he sold me even a box of them, let alone two stinking seals. It turns out that GM owns the tooling for the part, and Timken just makes them and sells them to GM, so back to GM I go, with no luck. I am a VOLUME customer at my local GM parts counter, I once built a complete '73-'87 Chevy one piece at a time though that counter, so they wanted to help me out. GM only sells that seal attached to a new unit bearing with a new rotor and new wheel studs, period, that's the only way to get a stinking seal, is to buy the $498.00 hub and rotor assembly. The dealer ended up ordering 100 of those hub and rotor assemblies and re-stocking 98 of them to get the cost down to $350.00 each, and that was going out on a very big limb for them, I probably shouldn't even tell you that they did that for me. So I ended up with $700 to replace two $1.50 seals. I always wondered why the brake shop wouldn't turn the rotors on our K2500 Suburban work trucks and alway said to go to the shop up the road and get them turned on the vehicle, they didn't want to risk separating that unit bearing and getting stuck with replacing it. Damn, now I'm all worked up again, that was over six years ago and I'm still pissed. Sorry for the rant, but once I get going on that subject I can't stop until it's all out in the open.

By the way, I still have the truck, I ran it with the ProComop lift for about four years and two small blocks before I tore it all down to swap in a GM Performance parts 450hp 502 big block, she's been in pieces for the last two and a half years.

http://www.rockcrawler.com/readersrides/photos/1834a.jpghttp://www.rockcrawler.com/readersrides/photos/1834b.jpg

YOU GUYS ARE FULL OF GOOD NEWS:confused:


YEP SAYS RIGHT ON THE SEAL DO NOT SERVICE.

WELL THANKS FOR THE REPLYS


I THINK I WILL GO DRINK A BEER AND CRY .