30 spline, external hubs ('76 Ford)
I'm thinkin 1)U-joints-2)Hubs-3)Axles-4)Gears
4 being the last to 'pop' (strongest).
Altho this is based mainly based on Optimism. Lookin for some 'experienced' answers.
What goes 'BANG' in a 60?:D :D

30 spline stub shafts is what I keep hearing on this board.
This is weeker than the stock spicer hubs.
sometimes the u-joint but not too often.


Eric

The stubshafts are typically the weakest link in that setup. When they let go they usually split lengthwise and will take out a lockout generally and sometimes will oval the spindle! :eek:
Ask me how I know! :D

Originally posted by Ultim8kaos
The stubshafts are typically the weakest link in that setup. When they let go they usually split lengthwise and will take out a lockout generally and sometimes will oval the spindle! :eek:
Ask me how I know! :D

Yep, ask me too.:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Rogue Bronco
30 spline, external hubs ('76 Ford)
I'm thinkin 1)U-joints-2)Hubs-3)Axles-4)Gears
4 being the last to 'pop' (strongest).
Altho this is based mainly based on Optimism. Lookin for some 'experienced' answers.
What goes 'BANG' in a 60?:D :D Hey Rogue Bronoc, does this dana 60 front have the pinion on the bottom? steve

Originally posted by steve gerstner
Hey Rogue Bronoc, does this dana 60 front have the pinion on the bottom? steve
Yes, it's a low pinion D60.

On the low pinion Frod 60 it is normaly the axles that will go first. starting with the short side axle, they are almost the same as the D44 axle. You can up grade to the 35 spline stuff.

Originally posted by Rogue Bronco

Yes, it's a low pinion D60. On those dana 60 fronts bottom pinion, the inner axle is 30 spline,not very good.Ford only used these for two years '76and'77.As EMSOFFROAD has pointed out, you can change the inner axles, I can look up the part # for you. steve Differential eng. inc.

So how pricey is it to change to 35 spline inners and outters? You have to get new hubs while you're at it. Probably some good spicer u-joints. I'm thinking about selling my build 44 and 9" and going to 60's but am not sure about the cost.

What about the rear? I'd need a new carrier to go to a 35 spline. How much are the axles?

-Jack

When I replaced my inners I just went with new Spicer stuff. IIRC, it was about $120 per? The outers were another story. The only ones with 35 spline alloy stubs was Dynatrac at the time and I paid dearly for them! ($795) New Warn hubs are about $200 Moser is now selling the inners and outers for $395 a pair. WMS also sells an alloy stub and I think they are about $700. If you have a Dodge or Chevy 60 things are much cheaper.

I think the rears will run about $300 for some Moser shafts. Then a new carrier,spool,locker.

So how about it Mr. Gerstner, can you help us Ford guys on the prices? Options?

Originally posted by Ultim8kaos
When I replaced my inners I just went with new Spicer stuff. IIRC, it was about $120 per? The outers were another story. The only ones with 35 spline alloy stubs was Dynatrac at the time and I paid dearly for them! ($795) New Warn hubs are about $200 Moser is now selling the inners and outers for $395 a pair. WMS also sells an alloy stub and I think they are about $700. If you have a Dodge or Chevy 60 things are much cheaper.

I think the rears will run about $300 for some Moser shafts. Then a new carrier,spool,locker.

So how about it Mr. Gerstner, can you help us Ford guys on the prices? Options?

Steve
You can run the Chevy outers in Ford front 60's...Basically what ya do is shorten the Chevy outer stub ta same length as a Ford...then ya tapp hole in the end of the stub shaft (5/16th if I remember correctly) then all ya have ta do is fab a washer that retains the lockout to axle...or you run Broached factory Spicer lockouts with a newly cut snap ring grove..... either way is totally do-able and has been done for years in these parts. I am digging around, sumplace I have a pic or two... just need to figure out where lol

NoRM

Originally posted by P|n-BaLL


Steve
You can run the Chevy outers in Ford front 60's...Basically what ya do is shorten the Chevy outer stub ta same length as a Ford...then ya tapp hole in the end of the stub shaft (5/16th if I remember correctly) then all ya have ta do is fab a washer that retains the lockout to axle...or you run Broached factory Spicer lockouts with a newly cut snap ring grove..... either way is totally do-able and has been done for years in these parts. I am digging around, sumplace I have a pic or two... just need to figure out where lol

NoRM Pinball,those dana 35 spline stub axles are not chevy,these stubs are for the dana 70 open knuckle used in the 4x4 fork lift,they are the same lenght 12".The ford is 11.40" long,I remove .600 and remachine the snap ring groove and releave the spline,no need for a bolt.I have been using these for over 5 years-long before most any one knew. Steve Differential eng. inc.

Originally posted by Ultim8kaos
When I replaced my inners I just went with new Spicer stuff. IIRC, it was about $120 per? The outers were another story. The only ones with 35 spline alloy stubs was Dynatrac at the time and I paid dearly for them! ($795) New Warn hubs are about $200 Moser is now selling the inners and outers for $395 a pair. WMS also sells an alloy stub and I think they are about $700. If you have a Dodge or Chevy 60 things are much cheaper.

I think the rears will run about $300 for some Moser shafts. Then a new carrier,spool,locker.

So how about it Mr. Gerstner, can you help us Ford guys on the prices? Options? Hey Ford guy,I have every thing but alloy axles,pirate 4x4 will not let me post prices or sell on this site. - email - steve

Yea, guys, If I wasn't already 35spline hub to hub with the alloy stubs I would definitely do it differently. Oh well, it's only numbers on paper right? :D

Originally posted by steve gerstner
Pinball,those dana 35 spline stub axles are not chevy,these stubs are for the dana 70 open knuckle used in the 4x4 fork lift,they are the same lenght 12".The ford is 11.40" long,I remove .600 and remachine the snap ring groove and releave the spline,no need for a bolt.I have been using these for over 5 years-long before most any one knew. Steve Differential eng. inc.

Yeah Steve I know they aren't OEM Chevy.....but they are same length as Chevy....hence the referance.......I prolly should have been a bit more clear. And yeah relieveing the splines outta work as well I imagine...I know we have done a few that way with good results. And BTW I actually have been using these stubs for about 14 years now. Or these and the part # they superseeded anyway ;-)

And ya really dunn have ta do anything ( except shorten) if you run OEM Spicer lockouts or drive plates. $45 to broach the hubs and yr set. Besides all the other lockouts break FAR to frequantly least in applications I have been involved with. If I could find a place ta buy the drive plates "resonable" I would buy me a few sets for the upcomming projects.
NoRM

Hey pinball, what are you calling "drive plates"? Is this dodge drive flanges 35 spline?

Originally posted by steve gerstner
Hey pinball, what are you calling "drive plates"? Is this dodge drive flanges 35 spline?

Nah Steve......the Fulltime plates they use in place of the lockouts in those fork lifts;-) 35 spline and bulletproof hunks of steel.......just hard to buy resonable.... My Spicer guy can treat me well ( Read I can buy VERY resonable) on almost any part but those drive "pucks" Them things Spicer is DAMN proud of.

NoRM

Hpw much do they run$$$$ for the 30spline pucks?