I'm tearing apart my old CJ-7 and putting the axles under my YJ. I want to make this a highway capable rig on a budget. I want to find high quality parts and do the job right. Anyone done this recently?

I saw an ad in a magazine about some forged hi-steer arms. Are these stronger/weaker? I have the flat top knuckles already, but now it's time to get out the credit card and I want to make sure I'm doing this right.

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/d44a.jpg

here are some pics of the donor parts:


http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/dana44e.jpg
d44 from cj
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/d44b.jpg
the old cj
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/d44d.jpg
flat top

we just put a super 30 kit in my buddies jeep and chromoly in the rear with arb air lockers front and rear. wheels like a champ and drives on the road like a cadillac, so maybe take that into consideration instead of trying to fab up something that you are kinda sketchy on. i have fabed allot of jeeps and custom 4x4's so if you still want to go with the fab work shoot me an email
buttlergabe@yahoo.com (i am a navy diver deployed so i will help the best i can from here to help you.)

Parts Mike high steer arms.

http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=219&rn=1343&action=show_detail

we just put a super 30 kit in my buddies jeep and chromoly in the rear with arb air lockers front and rear. wheels like a champ and drives on the road like a cadillac, so maybe take that into consideration instead of trying to fab up something that you are kinda sketchy on. i have fabed allot of jeeps and custom 4x4's so if you still want to go with the fab work shoot me an email
buttlergabe@yahoo.com (i am a navy diver deployed so i will help the best i can from here to help you.)

thanks for the reply. I want to go with full width axles tho. I have a limited slip in both the 44 and 9" and those 36" tires with wheels that I want to use.

did you guys use ball joints or heims on the super 30?

I want to go with full width axles tho. I have a limited slip in both the 44 and 9" and those 36" tires with wheels that I want to use.


http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/mudb8-/4%20wheel%20drive%20van%20conversion/PICT00091.jpg

ball joints/ if you are going to be driving it on the alot
hym joints/ if not

I did this same swap with high steer. Im in evansville but we wheel oakland city and inerlake. If you want to see mine or want help let me know. A guy in our club makes our high steer arms, cant beat price or product. Give me a call eight 1 two five 8 nine eight 4 six seven. I think he has a set for ford flat top knuckles already made. I used chevy.

I priced the forged arms from partsmike $209 w/ hardware

I am considering a ballistic kit which looks like $190 w/ hardware

The ad I saw claims that the forged arms are as strong as the ones machined from billet steel.

after checking out the forged arms a little more, I've decided on machined ones instead. Turns out they are forged in:barf: tiawan. :barf:

I will only put high quality U.S. made components on my Jeep!

after checking out the forged arms a little more, I've decided on machined ones instead. Turns out they are forged in:barf: tiawan. :barf:

I will only put high quality U.S. made components on my Jeep!

Where you planning on getting brake rotors from?

Well as much as possible. When there's an American option that is :shaking:

Well as much as possible. When there's an American option that is :shaking:

Too bad. I had hopes when I read this-


I will only put high quality U.S. made components on my Jeep!

That you had somehow found made in US rotors. I haven't seen one in at least 10 years and the last ones I saw made in North America were some Autospecialty stuff out of Canada.

That means I'm still stuck with my Premium Quality Centric stuff out of Taiwan.

I will only put high quality U.S. made components on my Jeep!

The irony is that your YJ was probably made in Canada :D

The irony is that your YJ was probably made in Canada :D

Yeah so was my Snap-On tool box. At least it's not china and is in North America!:D

How important is a steering stabilizer?

keep us updated on this build

got a little off track with this... http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/53fordlaidout002.jpg

How important is a steering stabilizer?

Not very. I have never had one on anything I've owned. That includes my YJ with a heim joint high steer.
Travis..

How important is a steering stabilizer?

id make it focal point of your build :flipoff2:
got a rubicon express one layn around if ya want it

I'm tearing apart my old CJ-7 and putting the axles under my YJ. I want to make this a highway capable rig on a budget. I want to find high quality parts and do the job right. Anyone done this recently?

I saw an ad in a magazine about some forged hi-steer arms. Are these stronger/weaker? I have the flat top knuckles already, but now it's time to get out the credit card and I want to make sure I'm doing this right.

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/d44a.jpg

consider a bunch of that 12g i picked up donated to the flaring of your muddy jeep.

i bought my high steer arms off of ebay. 150 and you ship your knuckle out, have it drilled, tapped, and keywayed and you get a matching arm with hardware. Send the guy a pm or email about a deal on both and he'll hook you up. Both me and my buddy bought from the guy and so far no breakage and a quick turnaround. And on a plus side i had enough clearance spring over for steering linkage. I did not need a spacer.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DANA-44-FLAT-TOP-KNUCKLE-service-HIGH-STEER-ARM-COMBO_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efab11874QQitemZ 270493882484QQptZAutomotiveQ5fServices

consider a bunch of that 12g i picked up donated to the flaring of your muddy jeep.

but I like it that way....:D

BTF or Ballistic arms?

What's the advantage of having the angle milled in the arm and the extra hole that ballistic offers?
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/D44-High-steer-arms-with-hardware_p_1248.html#

BTF or Ballistic arms?

What's the advantage of having the angle milled in the arm and the extra hole that ballistic offers?
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/D44-High-steer-arms-with-hardware_p_1248.html#

the angled mill is for the Tie Rod Ends to lay flat because if you look at your knuckles they are angles in on each side( about 10 Degrees), so the arms have a 10 degree angle to make everthing flat...this is supposed to lengthen the life of the TRE's...(SEARCH it you can find this)

The extra hole is for after market knuckles that have 4 holes instead of the usual 3...you can still use the highsteer arms on either knuckle...I have the ballistic arms, and I like them....

I have teh same setup your refering to doing...8 lug fullwidth chevy dana 44 with high steer and SOA...Your gonna need a 1" lift block to clear the springs, the extened hardware for the high steer arms, pair of highsteer arms, a steering gear box relocation bracket(parts mike), DOM tubing, and 1 ton TRE's, A stock wagoneer pitman arm...hope this helps....Heres some pics of mine:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...269&highlight=

linky no worky :shaking:

the angled mill is for the Tie Rod Ends to lay flat because if you look at your knuckles they are angles in on each side( about 10 Degrees), so the arms have a 10 degree angle to make everthing flat...this is supposed to lengthen the life of the TRE's...(SEARCH it you can find this)

The extra hole is for after market knuckles that have 4 holes instead of the usual 3...you can still use the highsteer arms on either knuckle...I have the ballistic arms, and I like them....

I have teh same setup your refering to doing...8 lug fullwidth chevy dana 44 with high steer and SOA...Your gonna need a 1" lift block to clear the springs, the extened hardware for the high steer arms, pair of highsteer arms, a steering gear box relocation bracket(parts mike), DOM tubing, and 1 ton TRE's, A stock wagoneer pitman arm...hope this helps....Heres some pics of mine:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...269&highlight=

the angled mill is for the Tie Rod Ends to lay flat because if you look at your knuckles they are angles in on each side( about 10 Degrees), so the arms have a 10 degree angle to make everthing flat...this is supposed to lengthen the life of the TRE's...(SEARCH it you can find this)

The extra hole is for after market knuckles that have 4 holes instead of the usual 3...you can still use the highsteer arms on either knuckle...I have the ballistic arms, and I like them....

I have teh same setup your refering to doing...8 lug fullwidth chevy dana 44 with high steer and SOA...Your gonna need a 1" lift block to clear the springs, the extened hardware for the high steer arms, pair of highsteer arms, a steering gear box relocation bracket(parts mike), DOM tubing, and 1 ton TRE's, A stock wagoneer pitman arm...hope this helps....Heres some pics of mine:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...269&highlight=

Thanks that does help. I didn't know I needed the stock wagoneer pitman arm

Thanks that does help. I didn't know I needed the stock wagoneer pitman arm
If you go to ballistics website and look at the highsteer arms, you'll see the measurements for the arms over on one of the side pics...You want a pitman arm that matchs the throw of the highsteer arm...The waggy arm is a little longer than a stock Yj arm(google them for a side by side comparison)...So like I said, you' ll have to move the box for ward..Then you can run your drag link to the arm and your tie rod off the arm...That may help you out...I dont know..The bending issue your haveing also depends on the thickness of the tubing your using...I use 1.5 OD x .25 thick which leaves you a 1" Inside Diameter...You can get the bungs from ballistic and auto parts store will have the 1 ton tie rod ends...I think that solve the bend issues..

linky no worky :shaking:

sorry, Look under my "Thread started" by me...Its label "another Yj pitman arm issue".
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=818269&highlight=

Where you planning on getting brake rotors from?

Some OEM rotors domestic. You can check the dealer depending on application or try finding new old stock OE or new old stock aftermarket, there is usually some on ebay. Up until 2006-07 there were still aftermarket rotors made in US or Canada, now all US aftermarket production is gone.

I have new Warn lockouts and new TREs sitting on the shelf. Next purchase will be the arms, I have found thicker ones and plan on going with them instead of a spacer.

I've also been trying to figure out the best way to run disc brakes on the 9" rear axle. So far I've come up with CJ rotors and any GM calipers with 7" bolt distance.

Look under the recent highsteer questions asked, or search my "name" on here and you'll find a bunch of pics i posted on my set up..It works wells..

Picked up a 99 Ram master cylinder for $9.03 at the yard today

The NAPA man said they have American made rotors, I will let ya know tomorrow when they get here!

The NAPA man said they have American made rotors, I will let ya know tomorrow when they get here!

The rotors were made in IL

Got these American made thick arms from SKY. Holes are tapered for GM 1-ton TREs. I still need to get the knuckle faced, drilled and tapped. Hopefully I can get to that after finals this week.

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=67


http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/histeerarmside.jpg

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/histeerarmstop.jpg

I got the knuckles milled and drilled on Thursday!
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/d44flattop.jpg

checked to make sure they fit flat:
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/d44top.jpg

Everything looks good so far

Yesterday I installed new Napa Chassis Parts ball joints (USA, lifetime warranty), and put the knuckles on the axle housing.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/d44histeer.jpg

This shows the difference between the flattish-top 78 bronco knuckles, and actual flat tops from a ?? F-250 maybe?? Not sure what, but it already had a steering arm on the driver's side.
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/d44knuckkels.jpg

what a mess

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/d44mess.jpg

Going out now to torque the spindle nuts, high steer arms, and upper ball joints... then WARN lockouts and it should be ready for tires!

I found out the hard way that 1/2 ton ford calipers won't work with 3/4 ton ford knuckles!

I put the old 3/4 ton brake brackets and calipers on to see if they'd work with my 16" wheels...it appears they will. Anyone know of any reason they wouldn't??
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/bigboibrakes.jpg

well answers being made at least

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=11521626&posted=1#post11521626

Buy new calipers they are cheap and you will know they work.

Buy new calipers they are cheap and you will know they work.

can't afford new calipers after all the cocaine and hookers

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/9bracketspass.jpg
more here:
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=11676097#post11676097

Nice work on the caliper brackets for the 9". I like the extra support, don't see that too much.

Nice work on the caliper brackets for the 9". I like the extra support, don't see that too much.

Thanks! I sure don't want them to fail.:D

Just placed my order at mountainoffroad.com for a steering relocation bracket. If their :usa: American Made products are anything like their customer service I'm going to be 200% satisfied! Check them out :bounce2:

http://www.mountainoffroad.com/_e/Steering_Components/product/SB8795-1/SB8795_1_Steering_Box_Bracket.htm

Parts Mike high steer arms.

http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=219&rn=1343&action=show_detail

That's what I did. Very happy with product.

:laughing::laughing: NO PARTSMIKE FOR ME!! I called about his forged high steer arms, china made!

I'd rather save an American job than a dollar. I work in America too!:flipoff2:

:laughing::laughing: NO PARTSMIKE FOR ME!! I called about his forged high steer arms, china made!

I'd rather save an American job than a dollar. I work in America too!:flipoff2:

Amen!

I'm tearing apart my old CJ-7 and putting the axles under my YJ. I want to make this a highway capable rig on a budget. I want to find high quality parts and do the job right. Anyone done this recently?

I saw an ad in a magazine about some forged hi-steer arms. Are these stronger/weaker? I have the flat top knuckles already, but now it's time to get out the credit card and I want to make sure I'm doing this right.

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/d44a.jpg

Maybe I missed something. YJ is drivers drop and CJ is passenger drop. You doing transfer case too?

Yah in left out some important info, the cj was a lotta bronco :p
4 spd and 205 9" from a 78. Only had a jeep 258 left in it

Anybody use the YJ trac bar after swapping to a d44?

Got the steering box relocator mounted. Excellent product from M.O.R.E. (Mountain Off-Road Enterprises). They include all the hardware with step by step instructions. It only took 2 beers to complete the job and that included removal of the YJ pitman arm.

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/2010-08-14005900.jpg

After looking at this picture it appears that the sway bar mount may be useless with a wagoneer pitman arm....any suggestions?

http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/7-8-18-Threaded-Tube-Insert-Chevy-Tie-Rod-1-I.D.-Tube/3207/3392

got a couple of these on the way, one of the RH bungs I had galded on the drag link end so I had to cut it off. I like the ones with the hex on them better anyway. Oh and they shipped SAME DAY! :D

Threaded tube inserts arrived today from WFO. By far the highest quality insert I've seen for offroad or minitruckin' If you're thinking about using some for your rig I would definatly check them out www.wfoconcepts.com they are priced right too! can't beat that. They arrived here in Indiana on Thursday and I ordered them from Cali on Monday!

well it moves and stops at least. I have a vibration at low speeds and I'm sure its the rear driveline. I took it out and drove it in front wheel drive and no vibration. It has a home built dshaft that isn't balanced. The weird thing is that it stops vibrating when you get it over 30-40 mph. Anybody know if this is due to the shaft not being balanced, or do I need a SYE with a CV joint???
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/newjeeppic.jpg
Oh btw the braking power is AWESOME!

OK since the SOA my ride is very rough, I knew to expect this. I have read that lubeable shackle bushings/bolts will improve the ride. Anyone done this? I'm also thinking about revolver shackles and would want to do this at the time of a bushing swap. Are they worth it?

You didnt say what shocks your were using, but those also come into play with a rough ride. Bilstein 5100's are great shocks and the ride is amazing. Also, dont use revolvers. Ever. Search and you will find many reasons why not to use them.

They are rancho shocks that were 60 buck a pop I think less than a year old. They probably aren't the best for ride quality...
I found good and mostly bad revolver write ups.
How about a front shackle reversal? Does this help as much as claimed? I drive it on the road a lot (maybe why my back hurts)

What if I run dual shocks???!

What if I run dual shocks???!

Will not help at all. Honestly, you can pick up the bilsteins for $76 a piece at shockwarehouse.com

I would start there first, then change other parts out as needed.

Get a pic of your front suspension. Shackle angle mainly what im looking for.

Will not help at all. Honestly, you can pick up the bilsteins for $76 a piece at shockwarehouse.com

I would start there first, then change other parts out as needed.

Get a pic of your front suspension. Shackle angle mainly what im looking for.

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/IMG_20101104_091304.jpg

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/IMG_20101104_091326.jpg

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff355/fullcirclefabllc/IMG_20101104_091417.jpg

when I push down on the stinger there is very little suspension movement up front. I only weigh 160 but it still seems pretty stiff

Thats fine, you shouldnt be able to move it alot by pushing down on it. How tight are your spring and shackle bolts? Maybe loosen them and locktite them in place so they dont back off. O and grease the bolts as you suggested earlier. Shackle angle looks good.

Thats fine, you shouldnt be able to move it alot by pushing down on it. How tight are your spring and shackle bolts? Maybe loosen them and locktite them in place so they dont back off. O and grease the bolts as you suggested earlier. Shackle angle looks good.

AAAAHhhhhh good idea, them bolts are tighter'n a dick's hatband! I'll feel silly if that actually helps, but I bet it will because I don't think there is an inner sleeve to keep the shackle seperated at all. :shaking: I let the impact have it's way with them....I'll loosen them some and let ya know.

Thanks for your help!

That made a HUGE difference! It's still a Jeep but I can live with the way it rides now. Thanks a lot. You saved me a lot of time and money!:D

No problem, glad it was easy :D