I need some input, I like the smaller size of the dana pumpkin, but the brute strength and abundance of cheap parts keeps me wanting a 14 bolt. any opinions on the matter? and does anyone know how to go about removing the rock hook from the bottom of the 14 bolt?
thanks,
Dave.

Removig the lip from the bottom of the 14: Start out wil a metal cutting blade installed onto a regular ole skil saw. Blades are available at most HW stores. Finish with a grinder!

one note of caution: I currently have a 14 and am still on 36's...VERY bad combination. I can't wait for the 38's

Personally I would go with whatever you can find cheeper. They are pretty comparable in streangth, and you can shave both of them to come out comparable in ground clearence.

Scout Dude,
removing the lip isn't really the issue, it's sealing the rear cover after you've removed the lower three bolt and sealing surface.
am I wanting to remove too much?
And whats the problem with the 36s?
Dave

There's a cheap detroit locker available for the 14 bolt that doesn't require taking the diff out.

14 bolt....it is 35 spline 1.5", I have seen them brand new with detroit and disc for $1500.

YOu can't come close to that with a like Dana 60.

Finally, a 14 blt can be shaved to provide more clearance without turning the ring gear than the D60 can.

Originally posted by wngrog
14 bolt....it is 35 spline 1.5", I have seen them brand new with detroit and disc for $1500.

YOu can't come close to that with a like Dana 60.

Finally, a 14 blt can be shaved to provide more clearance without turning the ring gear than the D60 can.

So a 14 bolt is a better choice than d60?

That is not what I said.

There is 1 chance in a million that you will find a 35 spline rear Dana 60 in the junkyard and 1 chance in 10 million that you can score it for $150.

14 bolts are plentiful and can be easily had for under $500 complete.

The Detroit locker for it is under $300 and it has a 3 bearing pinion design like a Ford 9".

Downsides are weight, lack or easy conversion to 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern and the fact that it is a MAJOR potatoe digger unless you shave the crap out of the bottom.

If you are having a custom acle built, I like the 9" or the D60 better due to the weight advantage.

Finally, I think 5.13 is as low as the 14bolt goes....

Thanks Guys, looks like the 14 bolt is the way to go. Just would like to know more about removing the "potato digger" from the bottom.
Dave.

Originally posted by FJ-Dave
Scout Dude,
removing the lip isn't really the issue, it's sealing the rear cover after you've removed the lower three bolt and sealing surface.
am I wanting to remove too much?
And whats the problem with the 36s?
Dave
Dave
Here is a pic of my d60 that I cut down and used a piece of 3/4" plate that I machined for ring gear clearance for the diff bottom.
You can see the two new cover holes that I added . I also cut my ring gear for some more clearance. You can do the same as I did with a 14 bolt.

As for Scout dudes comment on 36's with a 14 bolt it's all about clearance, bigger tires more clearance.

Originally posted by wngrog
That is not what I said.

There is 1 chance in a million that you will find a 35 spline rear Dana 60 in the junkyard and 1 chance in 10 million that you can score it for $150.

14 bolts are plentiful and can be easily had for under $500 complete.

The Detroit locker for it is under $300 and it has a 3 bearing pinion design like a Ford 9".

Downsides are weight, lack or easy conversion to 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern and the fact that it is a MAJOR potatoe digger unless you shave the crap out of the bottom.

If you are having a custom acle built, I like the 9" or the D60 better due to the weight advantage.


Finally, I think 5.13 is as low as the 14bolt goes....

I thought USA was the promised land for d60:)
Which trucks came with d60 ff?

Thanks Guys,
anything else I can learn?
Dave.

well i personally give the nod to a 14bolt unless you find a stock 35 spline 60. the 14bolt is stronger and more plentiful. the 14 bolt has 30 spline axles but they are 1.5" in diameter like the 35 spline 60's. 14bolts have a huge center section but alot can be shaved off of them. i just used a ginder to grind the lip off of the one in my jeep but the one that is going into my fj40/buggy will have the bottom cutout and the ring gear turned down for some major clearance. anyway. as someone mentioned the 14bolt having problems leaking after they ground the lip off. weel it is not all to do with the loss of sealing area but also has alot to do with the thickness and design of the cover its self. i had the same issues but i got in the ol' scrap metal bin and started playing around until i came up with this and it has not leaked since and it has been drug over some big rocks too. anyway i added about 1/8" steel to the lower half of the bolt flange, added to the dome (as you can see), and i also removed the bottom bolt completely and filled in the area with steel so the ring gear hump goes all the way tothe bottom because of the steel i added. also i run the cab and chassis dually version of the 14bolt. it is only 63" wide compared to the standard 67" wide version. the width is made up in the wheel hubs so spare shafts (IF they will be needed) can be robbed from the more standard 14bolt. anyway here is a pic of mine :

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=537494

heres some good info;http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=73469

I run a 14 bolt on the rear of my Cruiser.
Would I run anything else? No Way.
I run 37" tires, are they big enough? No Way.

The good thing is I can smack the sh*t out of it on what ever rock comes my way,,, and I don't give a crap because it will take it.

I figure the more I drag that big mama over the rocks, the move I grind off,,, :eek:

:p

Originally posted by Shawn
I run a 14 bolt on the rear of my Cruiser.
Would I run anything else? No Way.
I run 37" tires, are they big enough? No Way.

:p

Funny!