So I am about to make a mod to my shocks in the front of my Disco tomorrow. The PO relocated the rear shock mounts on the axle when he lifted from 3-5" The rear shocks are OME and designed for a 3" lift. now that the shock mounts are up top they work well and provide the necessary travel.

In the front he didnt get around to doing anything and the shocks are limiting the travel. So after looking at it. I am planning on removing the shock towers and cutting them down a few inches. I was looking at my drag link up front and its a nice one. Made by rovertym out of stainless steel. I am a little concerned by the angles at the TRE's. My buddy I were wheeling and he overflexed his TRE and broke it. What is my best option to avoid this?

I know I could limit the travel but that doesnt seem like the best option.

The simplest option to me would be to make another drag link that is slightly angled on either end with some plate to reinforce the angles. I think I would just split the difference or else I will have issues on the up travel.

The drag link would still be on the same angles as the trac bar so no bump steer issues.

Another option would be to relocate the track bar and either get a higher steer arm or drop pitman if those are available. That doesnt seem like it is really necessary if my option works. What do you guys think?

Pics of the current setup

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o258/lester316d/DSC01837.jpg

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o258/lester316d/DSC01838.jpg

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o258/lester316d/DSC01839.jpg

Rover tie rods are fine.. I dont think over flex will break them especially with OME shocks... Leave it alone......

Thanks Mighty. Thats all I needed to know. In the future If I find myself with more flex than that would my plan work OK? I am hoping to get a 3 link in this thing over the winter.

Mine has a fair bit of front axle flex and never had any issues with TRE's. They do allow for some serieus movement. Undo one and see how much of an angle you can get out of them.

You running longer shocks at the front? Or is uptravel limited by longer bump stops or something? When cutting a few inches of your shock tower you'll lose uptravel, and you don't want your shocks to act as a bumpstop....

Thats a good point Toy-R. I will look at it today. Maybe I will build bump stops today rather than cutting the towers. Only time for 1 Project today and not a big one. It may be time toake a few days off to get things done on the Dsico. Lol.

Glad I can help:D..

You're not the only one who should take time off to work on the Landy.. I still need to fit my new (much longer) rear shocks.... I'm a bit lazy at the moment:shaking:..

Have fun today!

Thanks Mighty. Thats all I needed to know. In the future If I find myself with more flex than that would my plan work OK? I am hoping to get a 3 link in this thing over the winter.

When I had coil springs on the front of my full bodied disco, with the 3 link and 14 inch shocks, My front spring would come out of the bucket 6 inches on full flex, and the tie rods were fine.. DONT MESS WITH IT>>

You may find they wear faster with the increased angle as they are always wearing on a smaller surface, but they're cheap and plentiful. With the RTE tie rods, they're even easy to get out after they've been in there a while.

Darkstar is the one who has problems with stock style tie rod ends, but he's hydro, etc.

Ok that makes sense. I will leave them be and just keep grease in them. Any failures should make themselves known durring post flight inspection.

Typically one has plenty of opportunity to recognize problems with tie rod ends and other steering-related issues, if you're paying attention.

I've heard rumours that you can use "maths" and "measurement" to foretell of mechanical issues such as these.

That's crazy talk of course - just pray to Jeebus and it'll be fine.

Way too much forethought.

Use a defender drop arm, remove the snapring and ball joint and have a tapered bushing made to mount your TRE below the arm Gives you about 2 inches of drop. problem is the angle between the track rod and draglink gets changed.

Go full hydro at the same time you do the 3 link. What's the worst that could happen?

Those are both good ideas. The full hydro is not on the list yet. The Defender pitman is probably more in the budget but out of curiousity what about my idea? No bump steer and done relativley cheap. But like Mighty said its probably not an issue yet. I will articulate it with no springs and see. Thanks.

BTW didnt the shock tower mod even started. Got the garage cleaned up and the rotoflex flange out and the RRC driveline in. Thats all the time I could salvage for personal time out of the weekend. Going to take a couple days off next week I think. I am about to start losing PTO if I dont use it soon anyway.

Those are both good ideas. The full hydro is not on the list yet. The Defender pitman is probably more in the budget but out of curiousity what about my idea? No bump steer and done relativley cheap. But like Mighty said its probably not an issue yet. I will articulate it with no springs and see. Thanks.

You must not have a front locker... If the Disco is anything like a RRC you will need some sort of steering assist. With my front locker locked I can barely even turn around on gravel. It takes almost all of my body weight (all 145 lbs :flipoff2:) to turn. I pulled a muscle in my arm the first time I took the Rangie wheeling. Definitely plan ahead for some hydro assist or full hydro steering.

If you know how to do it you can get a couple extra degrees from any stock TRE with a die grinder. Pop the boot and grind away, clean, regrease, reinstall boot. Dont say I told you how though, Its probably a bad idea.

Thanks guys and you are right I am not locked yet. Interesting to know though that it will become an issue. I still want to keep this thing semi legal on the road for now. Not a DD but I have trails really close and dont want to trailer just to go a few miles.